Discussion Topic |
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Jamulian
Trad climber
Jamul, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 26, 2012 - 03:03pm PT
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I saw this video and was surprised to not see it posted here yet. I thought it was a good "How To" video.
http://vimeo.com/53299008
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Nov 26, 2012 - 03:11pm PT
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The master at work by the mayor
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Nov 26, 2012 - 03:13pm PT
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Roger Brown...Amazingly good job. We all owe him a many thanks.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Nov 26, 2012 - 03:27pm PT
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Nice video!
Cool to share how Roger does it.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Nov 26, 2012 - 03:34pm PT
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Great vid by Cheyne and great info from Roger, thanks guys!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Nov 26, 2012 - 04:01pm PT
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Very cool video!
Manufacturing new tools to deal with bolts is half of the type 2 kinda fun you get when rebolting.
Roger and Clint have motivated many to pick a hammer and do some good.
Thanks for the selfless act, season after season!
Josh
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Nov 26, 2012 - 04:07pm PT
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D5 in action!
Great post!
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Nov 26, 2012 - 04:59pm PT
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You need a longer blow tube Roger, you're blowing that dust right back in your face;)
Seriously though, he's replaced thousands (that is plural, thousands) of bolts in Yosemite. Everybody who climbs in Yosemite more than likely has clipped one of his bolts and owes him a big Thank You.
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Byran
climber
Yosemite Valley, CA
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Nov 26, 2012 - 10:27pm PT
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nice work! what route is that he's replacing in the video?
The rope looks like it's maybe fixed on "Sink Like A Stone" on Loggerhead Buttress, but he's swinging over to the climb to the right. Not sure, I could be way off.
Awesome work. I'm not sure how many of his bolts I've clipped, but I'm guessing it's quite a few, and I've been grateful for every one.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Nov 26, 2012 - 11:26pm PT
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Yep, it's the indirect (right side) version of "Sink Like a Stone", where there were two 1/4" bolts. The main direct version was already 3/8".
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Nov 26, 2012 - 11:42pm PT
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awesome work guys, and great to have it on video so we can see the master at work. some really good pointers in there for replacement work!
thanks
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Nov 26, 2012 - 11:49pm PT
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Fantastic video. Thank you so very much for this hard work, what an incredible service. Literally saving lives.
I would LOVE to see some nice bolts at Castle Rock State Park.....illegal currently, but if that get lifted sign me up for the duty.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Nov 26, 2012 - 11:52pm PT
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awesome video.
i want clint's elbow.
seriously, dude, i call dibs.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Nov 27, 2012 - 12:43am PT
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That drill looks familiar:-) Nice work Roger(and your cohort, Clint)!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Nov 27, 2012 - 12:52am PT
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Boring. I'm done with all that bit.
:0)
You rock, Rog.
And Cheyne rolls the camera.
Excellent, expedient, and exactly the right stuff.
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frisbee
climber
{this page left blank intentionally}
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Nov 27, 2012 - 01:13am PT
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While climbing Goodrich Pinnacle on The Apron a few years back, we passed Roger who was swinging all over the place on a huge fixed line. Looked like he was having the time of his life wailing away at some manky bolt. We yelled 'Hello!' but he was too busy rocking out with headphones to hear us. Great guy!
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Meagher
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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What kind of drill is that? It looks nice.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Very much appreciated and especially the way it looks so simple and easy. I remember when I climbed el Cap 20 years ago, the main reason people stuck to the trade routes were the 1/4 inch bolts at anchors on the obscure ones. Nobody wants to risk having an anchor pull out, hauling off them, just look how easy they come out. Popped out with a gentle tap, did anyone notice this? Oh, don't worry, the hauling pulls on the hanger in a different direction, so it won't come out.
What do other people do to pull them out, just use different pitons to pry under the bolt hanger? You just tap it a couple of times and it comes out? I'm glad I didn't know about this before.
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westhegimp
Social climber
granada hills
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Thanks for all your hard work!
Wes
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Prod
Trad climber
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Seems like a character.
Great work.
Prod.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Cool! Except for the short tube bit. Somebody get that man a proper blow tube.
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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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A couple of things I need to say. Most important is the fact that the tile chisel is not my idea. I saw a picture of one in a post on here and just copied it. Also, that bolt I pulled in the video was a really good bolt for a quarter incher. If they are the least bit loose they come out much easier. The good thing is, Clint and I are running out of quarter inchers to replace in the Valley. There is still a lot left on some of the big wall routes, but few of those are first ascent bolts. I know that bolt I lowered that haul bag off of during Doug and my great adventure a couple months ago was not a first ascent bolt. I was really freaked out because I know how easy they come out. I may start replacing some of that stuff next season using my own non ASCA stuff but I'll save that discussion for another thread. Oh yea, the blow tube. I tried a longer one, but between it getting tangeled up in all the other stuff and the wind, I gave up and just learned to close my eyes and not breath in:-)
Roger
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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I have gotten a few 1/4 inchers out with my nut tool...
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hossjulia
Trad climber
Where the Hoback and the mighty Snake River meet
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Thanks Roger, miss you.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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"What kind of drill is that?"
I can tell you with 100% certainty that it is a Hurricane drill.
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Right on, Roger! If you are running out of bolts to replace in the Valley, we can put you to work in Tuolumne!
A few other things…
Yup, it’s a Hurricane drill.
And the Lost Arrow (tuning fork) that Roger shows in the video isn’t a #5, it’s a #3. The original, old-style #1 Arrows (USA-made) work great for a starter fork and are thinner than the new #1 Arrows. A short-thick Bugaboo also works for a starter fork. I use a set of #1, 2, and 3 Arrows and stack the 2 and 3 if the bolt won’t come out using the 3 by itself. Sometimes old bolts are actually pretty good and take some effort to remove – especially 1/4” buttonheads that are longer than 1.5”.
Ditto on the blow-tube! To keep it out of the way when not using it, you can put a clove-hitch in the middle of the tubing and clip it to a biner, along with the leash.
Sometimes it helps to tap back and forth on the bolt hanger to spin it in order to loosen it up. This makes it easier to get the thin fork started and helps to prevent damage to the rock. Also, it’s easier to get under a bolt hanger by placing the fork under the side of the hanger that’s bent to form the clipping hole although it looks like Roger was constrained by the geometry of the rock in the video example. I like to clip a funkiness device to the bolt hanger when pulling the bolt so that the hanger doesn’t get dropped. Stainless SMC hangers work great with new 1/4” butonheads for stance drilling.
And it’s probably obvious and just wasn’t included in the video, but the hole needs to be blown out with a blow-tube after using a hole brush.
Thanks for posting the video.
Nice job, Cheyne.
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Dec 19, 2012 - 02:29am PT
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Thank you for your dedicated work Roger and Clint.
and very educational video
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Dec 19, 2012 - 02:53am PT
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bump for a great video.
is there anywhere/anyway to get a pulling "fork", without having to machine it yourself? I don't have a machine shop at hand.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 19, 2012 - 03:01am PT
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I make my own tuning forks with a hacksaw and vise.
It really doesn't take that long to cut the slot in a (long thin) Lost Arrow - less time than it takes to drill the hole for one bolt!
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cuvvy
Sport climber
arkansas
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Dec 20, 2012 - 04:47am PT
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These informative threads are indeed worthy. Tired of the spray fests going on..Thanks Mr roger
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speelyei
Trad climber
Mohave County Arizona
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Jan 15, 2014 - 10:33pm PT
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BBST
On a side note, I got a disappointment this evening.
Turns out, I left my collection of antique hangers, bolts, and a couple pins in my folks garage. They were cleaning the garage and putting all the metal stuff in a pile for a craigslist metal recycler. Gone, my 1/4" buttonhead on a SMC hanger, my leeper hangers, a few home made hangers from angle iron, some ultra funky pitons. Gone. It was maybe only 5 or 6 things, but dang... Collected out of Smith Rocks, the Columbia River Gorge, a few other places.
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