Dick (Richard) Culbert project

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Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Topic Author's Original Post - May 29, 2012 - 05:29pm PT
I'm working on a biography of Canadian mountaineer Dick Culbert. He's a Coast Mountains legend, active mainly in the 1960s to about 1974. Among his many first ascents:

 first (and only) winter ascent of Mt. Waddington
 second ascent of Devil's Thumb by the complete east ridge
 first ascent of the Cat's Ears Spire (near Devil's Thumb)
 first ascent the east face of Colonel Foster (Vancouver Island)
 and a couple hundred more first ascents, new routes, mainly in the Coast Mountains and at Squamish

I'm looking for stories, pictures, letters, anything to help fill in the life story of this extraordinary and gentle person.

PM me, if you wish. I answer all emails, but not necessarily immediately (in and out of town).

Thanks
Glenn Woodsworth


Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2012 - 06:16pm PT
I should mention that Dick also wrote the first (and only) climber's guide to the Coast Mountains (or Coast Range, if you prefer) of British Columbia.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2012 - 06:22pm PT
I think about 250 is close, but even Dick has no idea. He stopped counting after a while. John Clarke at some 600 has more first ascents of peaks, but Dick has more high-quality 1st ascents.
sac

Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
May 29, 2012 - 08:11pm PT
Sounds like a great project.....

Bump
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
May 31, 2012 - 06:05pm PT
There are rumors of an hibachi-style barbeque coming along on some of the climbing trips Dick did with Paul Starr and Fred Douglas.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2012 - 06:53pm PT
^^^^^^Wasn't there also a few chicken bones in that summit reg ?

I guess my memory is fading more rapidly than I thought. I don't remember anything about chicken bones... I thought we tossed the chicken bones over the edge. ??

I'll have to ask Fred and Paul about the Hibachi incident! Never heard of that. Sounds like a Starr thing; tough to imagine Fred doing that.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2012 - 07:00pm PT
Actually, the descent off Serra V was one of the most frightening of my life (and Dick's). I know gf and PC had big-time problems, too: scary stuff, you guys, well done!
Hoser

climber
vancouver
May 31, 2012 - 07:52pm PT
I think its written up in "The Traverse" by Don
David Wilson

climber
CA
May 31, 2012 - 09:22pm PT
Hi Glenn, My dad, Les Wilson, was with him on the winter Waddington ascent. Dad has a bunch of photos from that trip and if you PM me I can put you in touch. Best, David
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
May 31, 2012 - 09:28pm PT
I'm fairly sure that I was on the BCMC trip which Fred brought a hibachi along on. Perhaps he did it several times.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
May 31, 2012 - 10:13pm PT
It may have been Mount Hozomeen. A relatively short and gentle approach. But maybe that's the one where Fred brought a whole flat of cinnamon buns, for his weekend's sustenance?

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1063840/Mt-Waddington-South-Face-area (not about the winter ascent particularly, but relevant)
David Wilson

climber
CA
May 31, 2012 - 10:51pm PT
found a pic from the trip in question:


serious old school
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2012 - 11:30pm PT
Hi David, nice photo, and indeed old school.

I sent you a PM.
Glenn
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 1, 2012 - 12:38pm PT
Glen i bet you have some great pictures of serra V and the rest of your big summer with Dick. Any chance you could post up a few?
Sadly, we have few photos. We didn't take that many and what with attrition over 50 years, there aren' many, if any, left of Serra V. I might have one or two; I'll try and dig them up over the next while.
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Jun 1, 2012 - 09:00pm PT
I once heard that Dick lost all his photos in a fire. True or false? That would have been a huge loss to Dick, and to the rest of us.
MH2

climber
Jun 1, 2012 - 11:29pm PT
A nicely expressed tribute from G-spotter to the stature of Dick Culbert:



http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/781669/Re_Famous_fixed_gear_Who#Post781669
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Jun 2, 2012 - 01:05pm PT
Glenn
Any truth to the housefire/photos story?
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2012 - 12:11am PT
Hi Hamie, sorry for the slow reply; been out of town and out of touch.

I don't know the truth of that particular story, but I'll ask next time I see him. I do know that many of his photos were lost in one way or the other: fire, sundry moves and revolutions, and so forth. I'm trying to hit up people for pics.



hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Jun 5, 2012 - 03:38pm PT
I have a few so-so pix from the summer that Dick and I spent working for Newconex Explorations, in the Selkirks. We did some FAs, and new routes on Moloch and Wheeler. A nice paid vacation! 1963? Even less from Squamish.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 7, 2012 - 09:59pm PT
Hamie, I had a nice afternoon with Dick today. He says that most of his photos were lost in sundry thefts at various times and in a flood in his mother's basement. His house did burn down when he was a kid, but that was before he started climbing. Probably lost all his childhood and family photos, though.

I'll be in touch about Newconex (yes, 1963, I'm pretty sure) and Crap Crags.
G
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