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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 29, 2012 - 07:04pm PT
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It looks like this topic hasn't been addressed for about a year and a half.
I have a pair of Mythos, which I love, but when they are off at the cobbler like they are now, it's a drag. I could buy a second pair of Mythos, and I will if there isn't another shoe people are in love with.
I bought a pair of Katanas last summer for sport climbing and was told they are also a good crack shoe. But I tried to use them in the gym today and the velcro wants to move, and the upper suede seems too fragile for jam crack size. Bits of it were exfoliating with every crack.
I tried a pair of Red Chili crack shoes once and the fit was too wide for me - not a sizing issue. Tight but sloppy at the same time.
So what I want is:
European fit
Not a deep heel cup - it tends to irritate my Achilles
lace up
Narrow toe profile for thin cracks
Thanks! Phyl
Edited to add charts:
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kc
Trad climber
the cats
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Feb 29, 2012 - 07:08pm PT
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I like the Scarpa Techno. Fits well, you can wear it all day, the toe is pretty thin, and you can still edge with it for those crack to slab climbs.
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Jennie
Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
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Feb 29, 2012 - 10:31pm PT
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I like Mythos at the City of the Rocks.
But for a crack shoe that edges well in the Tetons, the Miura and the Anasazi VCS. I also look for the old black and green Boreal Aces.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Feb 29, 2012 - 10:34pm PT
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Mythos are my go-to for cracks.
Are you going to be around J-Tree this weekend? On Saturday they're doing a shoe-demo at Nomad's with La Sportiva, Evolv, Scarpa, Red Chilli's and more. Can rent a pair out for the day to see how you like them.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
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Feb 29, 2012 - 10:45pm PT
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I love La Sportiva shoes. How bout the TC pro's? Think they were made for Tommy Caldwell for cracks. But really, I guess many can't afford this pricy shoe.
Friends from bitd say they just climbed cracks, no special shoes. The elegant crack climber, John Bachar once said, "free your mind and your ass will follow." How bout that? Bitd dudes also say your mind, not your shoes, is your strongest asset.
Skip Guerin, Colorado man, once freed Rostrum Roof in Yosemite barefoot....
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Feb 29, 2012 - 11:00pm PT
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get scuffy_b to find a pair of Kaukulators on eBay for you...
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
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Feb 29, 2012 - 11:06pm PT
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He did, and I have, thanks scuffy...:D
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Feb 29, 2012 - 11:10pm PT
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Depends on what kind of cracks and how serious you take yourself and climbing in general.
I know guys with a full quiver of boots for every 1/2" variance from tips all they way up to chimneys. I also know guys who could climb it all with two breadbags on their feet. Location might play into your choice too. And how hard you climb. And how strong you are. And how strong your feet are. And your pain tolerance.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 29, 2012 - 11:43pm PT
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Scarpa Technos for me but I believe they are being discontinued.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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I have to agree with the old Boreal black and green Aces. I still have a couple pairs to be resoled as necessary. Gordo gave me some blue ones that are pretty sweet as well.
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selfish man
Gym climber
Austin, TX
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For me it's Mythos for thinner cracks where the toe barely fits, TC pros for everything else. I have the same problem with the rubber strip on the back cutting into the Achilles tendon, but seems to be a non-issue with TC pros. In some of the other La Sportiva models, I had to remove the strip.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Surfstar, thanks! Just picked up a pair - cost me the same that a resole of my current shoes would have. Really appreciate it.
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dogtown
Trad climber
Cheyenne, Wyoming and Marshall Islands atoll.
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Old school 5.10 boots that are resoled a few times believe it or not. Have a bunch of shoes but I dig them best for cracks and the wide stuff.
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kc
Trad climber
the cats
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NOOOOOOOOOOO!!! Scarpa Technos being discontinued?!!!!
Sigh. Do you know how hard it is to find a shoe that fits that I like that works for me?
Hopefully they will come out with a new model....................
I am sort of pleased to be in such good company with my shoe preference, however! :)
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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I do; Cobra-mythos-TC pros for thin to wide.
And have a narrow, (very)high-arched, high volume foot.
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nature
climber
CO
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I doubt I'll ever wear another pair of shoes besides the TC pros.
I loved my mythos and they did well in narrower cracks. but for comfort combined with performance the TC has me sold.
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surfstar
climber
Santa Barbara, CA
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le_bruce - glad you used it in time. It should be good for 3 uses total, but expiring tonight until they email out another one. I was happy they had my size and I scored them for $48 plus shipping last month. Guess I have a go-to crack shoe now and only my technique will be whats lacking.
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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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Muiras. But I think it best to try them on and not just mail order them unless ordering with zappos VIP for free roundtrip nda shipping...bc some pairs I tried didn't fit as well as others of the same size.
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Daphne
Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
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Phylp is massively strong!
I love tc pros.
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