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enjoimx
Trad climber
Kirkwood, ca
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Moccassyms, best crack shoe ever. Keep it simple. If you find you still suck at cracks, it's not the shoe.
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Rattlesnake Arch
Social climber
Home is where we park it
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To quote Dale Bard (from Moving Over Stone) as he climbs the Coyne Crack, a long Indian Creek splitter, in Boreal slippers.
"These little slippers are sorta unique....."
"You can definately feel everything your feet are doing..."
Higher up
"This crack is soo beautiful...... GOD MY FEET HURT!!"
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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right now my favorite all around crack shoe is the Acopa Legend (those of you who climb with me are sick of this proselytizing, I know).
it has a 3/4 last for great support in cracks and for edging
if fit to street-shoe size the shoe is tight and probably not great for all day, but I'd guess it would be awesome on the edging
fit a size up from street-shoe size it makes a great all day shoe for the Valley with little loss in control for a duffer like me, and it is a dream in cracks of all sizes... if your OW technique is good and you don't need ankle protection then this shoe works well, if you need ankle pro, then get a pair of Kaukulators...
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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I'm with enjoimx. The Moccassym is the best crack shoe I've ever worn (if we're talking about the range between thin fingers to off-hand, anyway). They also "smedge" really well.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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What Russ sez, fo' shore.
That said, I have an old pair of Tao's (those black things) that I call my Secret Weapons. They fit like a glove. I just make sure to never climb in the sun with them.
Also, I have a pair of Muria's that have been resoled, so my toes lay flat. Man I love those things!
Slippers are cool tho, especially if you have strong feel and a high pain tolerance (or really good herb).
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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I love Mythos but my two latest pair have "rolled" on me.
My foot, in the shoe, has shifted away from the inside edge of the shoe and I can no longer edge with them. No matter how I tighten them I can't reposition my foot in them. As a pure crack shoe they would still be good but forget ever standing on an edge!
TC Pros are mostly great but I have this one long toe on my right foot, I'm thinking of having some surgeon chop it down a bit...
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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I gotta finders fee for anyone who can find me some Scarpa "Technos" M44.5
... been searching... and searching.
A.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Find a Sportiva slipper, that's likely your best bet.
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surfstar
climber
Santa Barbara, CA
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I gotta finders fee for anyone who can find me some Scarpa "Technos" M44.5
... been searching... and searching.
A.
http://gearx.com/scarpa-techno-climbing-shoe.html?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cse&utm_campaign=BingShopping
That size is tough to find! Sorry couldn't do better on price, but if you really want them, I'd say call/email gearx and mention how they're discontinued and are ~$76-83 at most other sites that still have them in stock. Point them to the source themselves: http://www.scarpa.com/scarpa/products/CLIMBING/CLIMBING-ROCK_CLIMBING/p_70100
Hopefully you can get them to price match.
Good luck! I'm off to see if I can reduce the shipping and buy another pair from sierra trading post...
(edit)wasn't meant to be - STP just sold out of my size (45.5) as I was trying to buy them right now. Guess I didn't need a backup pair after all.
This is good for 35% off for anyone else until midnight CST, though: BWC80760
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ATS
Social climber
escondido, ca
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"That said, I have an old pair of Tao's"
My favorites
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2012 - 07:52pm PT
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Thanks for all the interesting comments. I organized it for myself so that I could get a better overview:
SHOE Name Comment
Acopa Legend Ed H thin; edging
Anasazi VCS jennie
Boreal Ace jennie
Boreal Ace Stahlbro
Boreal Ballet Ron A
Boreal Mega Ron A
Cobra Jaybro
Katana caughtinside velcro issue
Katana phylp velcro issue
Miura jennie
Miura susu
Miura k-man
Moccasyms enjoimx
Moccasyms Mooser
Moccasyms k-man pain
Moccasyms caughtinside soft
Moccasyms phylp stretch
Mythos jennie
Mythos fluoride
Mythos selfish man thinner cracks
Mythos Jaybro
Mythos nature thinner cracks
Mythos Mark Hudon rolling
Mythos phylp
Scarpa Techno kc thin toe; edging; all day
Scarpa Techno donini
Sportiva slipper elcapinyoazz
Tao k-man
Tao ATS
Tao phylp extinct
TC Pros Lynne
TC Pros selfish man hand and bigger
TC Pros Dave Kos comfy
TC Pros Jaybro
TC Pros nature comfy
TC Pros daphne
TC Pros Mark Hudon
Depends Russ
Depends Locker
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2012 - 08:05pm PT
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opps, the formatting seems to have disappeared!
But the comments have helped me refine what I'm looking for. I'll may get another pair of Moccasyms. I have a pretty good tolerance for pain and I had a pair in the past that worked great for very thin cracks. Plus they're cheaper.
The Mythos are plenty comfy for me as an all day shoe, and I do not like higher top shoes, so that seems to eliminate the TC Pro and the Boreal Ballet, etc.
Another option for me could be the Katana laceups, which I just realized they make. Then I get the edging precision and better heel hooking that I wouldn't get with the Moccasym.
By the way Tao lovers, I resoled my Taos until they basically disintegrated. I really regret not buying another couple pairs of those when they made them and putting them in a vault.
And re Daphne's comment! It's kind of an running joke I have with my climbing partners. "I am massively strong" is my affirmation that I say to myself when I'm about to go up on something steep and hard for me! Better than saying "oh, sh*t I don't think I can do this".
Phyl
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Johnny K.
climber
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Everyones preference is going to be different.My 2 cents.
Comfort is most important.
I go with the Anasazi verde as my "all around" shoe.Its nice to have shoes that you can trust in every situation from thin cracks to dime edging to ow,and not have hurting feet at belays.
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WBraun
climber
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Climbing shoe tip #56120 for the Mythos.
Here's how to make them even better for all round crack climbing.
Grind down the original sole a bit from the tip to the arch.
Now add a resole layer of 5.10 C4 slipper rubber on top of that.
You get superior overall edging and torsional stiffness ......
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Perhaps I'm late to the party...but I'll opine anyway. I prefer really, really worn out (you saw) and loose Mocs for thin, hard(er) cragging cracks b/c getting your outer rand in makes it so, so much easier, and in IC-style spitter situations, there's not usually much need to edge.
In Yosemite where I'm rarely doing 1 pitch, and the need to use subtle features is more present, I almost always where Mythos which strikes a balance between being soft and thing, and having that extra bit of support. I also like that they lace to the toe. Shoes that don't (like Muira), always seem to bag or lack tension there unless you size them like toe shoes.
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2012 - 08:32pm PT
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Melissa, that's why I was leaning towards the Mocs, and will try Werner's trick next Mythos resole for a bit more stiffness in them.
Phyl
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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I am massively strong
Believe and you can achieve :) The power of the mind with adequate focus is an amazing thing.
Anyway, I like the TC Pro's for about thin hands and up. I like the katanas for finger cracks, but IMO the comment above about the velcro ripping is quite apt. I still have a couple pairs of sportiva barracudas (discontinued) that fit mostly the same as katanas but are lace-ups.
Scarpa vapor V's (velcro) are a bit similar to the katanas. They look downturned, but I like them on slab and fingers too. I would imagine the scarpa vapor lace fits similarly, but haven't tried them.
I would be interested in hearing how you like the katana lace (but I seriously don't need more shoes !)
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Bad Acronym
climber
Little Death Hollow
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Seen several comments about the Velcro tabs shearing in cracks. This happened to me with a newish pair in a hand crack, but there's an easy solution: buy a seam ripper and a leather punch. Tear the tab stitching out with the seam ripper, cut the tabs off at the rand with kitchen scissors, punch eyelets through the suede/cowdura, and buy a pair of laces. In about 15 minutes, you'll have a pair of velcros that fit better than they should.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Your definitions of "cracks" obviously don't include OW's, or else you'd all take up Ed's invitation to have scuffy get you some old Kaukulators. I still use my old high-top Fires for offwidths.
Now, back to the century.
John
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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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I should have commented why I like Miuras. The toe profile is really great for narrow cracks, and the rand seems to protect my feet in cracks better than other shoes. These are good all-around shoes for variety: edge, smear and smedge well. They also last well.
The thing about the fit, though. There is a break-in period. I also noticed the wrinkle in the toe box on my latest pair which were never as comfortable as previous pairs. The very first pair I tried were flat out uncomfortable, but I tried another at a different store which became favorites.
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