Ames Ice Hose TR


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Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 15, 2012 - 02:54am PT
Ames Ice Hose Trip Report
January 9, 2012
Ed Hartouni

Part of the Colorado trip was to climb ice, not just in the Ice Park, but out in the San Juans. Jeff Lowe had provided the perfect tick list, one that seems relevant even today, 33 years after it's publication. I am referring to Ice Experience, and specifically to Chapter 4 "The Hardwater Guide." The section on Colorado, one finds a climb in the entry for Telluride: Ames Falls, 150m WI5+ and this image:
from Jeff Lowe's "The Ice Experience" pg 158
from Jeff Lowe's "The Ice Experience" pg 158
Credit: Ed Hartouni
with caption: The 175-meter Ames Fall is one of the finest Colorado ice climbs. (Photo by Mike Kennedy)

Mike Kennedy wrote of the first ascent in Alpinist 18.

Before that, the climb was described in Mountain 82 by Glenn Randall, where it is referred to as the "Ophir Ice Hose".

It was definitely a wonderful climb... and great to get on it after so many years away from ice climbing. Thanks to Bill for the ride, and Frank for the comradeship.

Credit: Ed Hartouni

Credit: Ed Hartouni

Credit: Ed Hartouni

Credit: Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Jan 15, 2012 - 08:57am PT
Looks like a great day out, Ed! Way to go!

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Jan 15, 2012 - 09:28am PT
Thanks Ed that was a fun view.
As the ending credits rolled I laughed when the "Wish you were here 1975" came up since
I was there in those daze and diggin' on the same music. You should feel damn good about your ticks in the San Juans and you really should get geared and keep kickin' it. It's a New IceMerican Century out there.
And that is straight from the horses...uh, mouth.
Can we tall Mr Ed?

Trad climber
Jan 15, 2012 - 09:49am PT
Ed - Great choice of music and such a wonderfully created TR! ... route history, too.

Excellent trip and fun - and there's so much more to do. Thanks so very much for coming to Ouray and climbing.


Cardiff by the sea
Jan 15, 2012 - 09:59am PT
SICK!!! Nice work gentlemen.

Trad climber
Jan 15, 2012 - 10:31am PT
Fantabulous! Nice send Ed and company, stellar climbing!

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Jan 15, 2012 - 10:43am PT
Though the earlier and well earned SERIOUSLY FIERCE reputation of climbs like Ames & Bridalveil is somewhat diminished by Modern Gear and frequent ascent they have lost none of their luster or bite. They were and should still be considered plumb ticks on your cicle list. Possibly even resume' bullet points. Big congrats Ed you plumb picking CallyCat.

Bridalveil Falls is still to me one of the most remarkably picturesque ice climbs anywhere. It is an absolute Classic.
The only allure or challenge it has lost as far as I can tell is that you no longer have to trespass in the dark to do it.

Trad climber
OC in So Cal
Jan 15, 2012 - 10:49am PT
Great climb, great video. Thanks!!!!!

Trad climber
Jan 15, 2012 - 11:55am PT
Pretyy sweet Ed!

Jan 15, 2012 - 01:11pm PT

Nice (intentional?) timing as Frank stalls stemming off the belay, eyeing the scary narrows over his Jesus screw, and then gets after it just as the meat of Shine kicks in.


Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Jan 15, 2012 - 01:12pm PT
Nice Ed!

Quite jealous now!

Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
Jan 15, 2012 - 01:18pm PT
Nice Ed!

Big shout out to Bill Mac . . . did the Reg. NW Face Half Dome with him many moons ago.

Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
Jan 15, 2012 - 01:28pm PT
Hey Ed, nice TR, thanks. Now that climbing in CO is on your radar, come out sometime this year for some "prancing"!

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Jan 15, 2012 - 03:27pm PT

Nice stuff, Ed! What'd you shoot it with? An SLR or an actual
video camera?
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2012 - 04:24pm PT
Flip MinoHD
(model #F460B)
(4GB memory holds ~1hr of video)

John Mac

Trad climber
Littleton, CO
Jan 15, 2012 - 04:31pm PT
Awesome footage and great TR. Thanks for sharing.

Almost made we want to get back into ice climbing!


Trad climber
Concord, Ca
Jan 15, 2012 - 05:46pm PT
What a great climb! The video and trip report are wonderful.
Brian Biega

Truckee, CA
Jan 15, 2012 - 06:39pm PT
Way to go Ed!

Thanks for the story.

Cheers, Brian
Mighty Hiker

Vancouver, B.C.
Jan 15, 2012 - 06:45pm PT
It's amazing that there would be a climb like the ice hose in Ames, Iowa. So much for fables about flat prairie states.

Somewhere out there
Jan 15, 2012 - 06:50pm PT
Great choice of music, that's fo'sho

thanks Ed
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