Ames Ice Hose TR

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Messages 21 - 39 of total 39 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jan 16, 2012 - 02:25am PT
ice conditions looked good!


nice job




rockermike

Trad climber
Berkeley
Jan 16, 2012 - 02:30pm PT
Great video, nothing like starting off easy after 30 years away from ice. Next assignment is bridalveil falls in telluride. I lived there for a number of years back in that 70s, and always wanted to get up the thing but with my lack of sack' and my dated (even for the time) tools I never got on it. I too got back into ice climbing 3 or 4 years back and its on my list. Hell, with new tools its a different game. Why don't you take a shot at it and let me know how it goes. :)


(Written before I saw post of accident. - if rumor is true, so sorry for all involved)
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2012 - 09:02pm PT
don't know about the M grades, they were invented well after my pause in ice climbing... the chimney, for me, was the easiest pitch because I got to scum off the rock in lots of places, as well as use the ice...

the first pitch was my crux...

I'd say the ice climbing was probably WI4+ with the picked out holes... steep, but there was always something to find for a hook...

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2012 - 12:00am PT
images from the FA:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=382806&msg=757182#msg757182

more history:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1248760&msg=1271194#msg1271194

Guy Lacelle solos Ames Ice Hose
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web07x/video_hg_ice_exclusive

another thread:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=550087

thinner first pitch conditions:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=864083&msg=879027#msg879027
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Jan 17, 2012 - 01:22am PT
Well done Ed!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 17, 2012 - 02:01am PT
Congrats to all you with the ascent, and thank you for sharing!
steve shea

climber
Jan 17, 2012 - 10:07am PT
Ed, that was fun to see. The hardest part of the first ascent was getting off the ground if I remember correctly. It was back in the day of Terrors and Dachsteins we thought it was serious but not as hard as Bridalveil. Did the second ascent of Bridalveil with Gordon Smith earlier. And Neither were as hard as Hidden Falls in Glenwood Canyon at least in the conditions that we did it. We had the Terror, Dachstein and wool penalty. It would be interesting to do them again with modern tools. Thanks for the memory. SS BTW it looks fat, must've been fun.
David Wilson

climber
CA
Jan 17, 2012 - 10:40am PT
whoa ! great job on that Ed. somehow the music adds a dark and cold component that makes that seem even more burly.
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Jan 17, 2012 - 12:04pm PT
Ice Hose indeed. Fricking thing is like a foot wide at spots. My knees knock just looking at that thing.

JL
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Jan 17, 2012 - 01:02pm PT
Wow! Super nice job Ed. Finally got to see this on a fast connection. that 1st pitch looks horrid. looks like the gear must have been sketch and the ice super abused.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2012 - 03:44pm PT
you would need to do the ascent early enough in the year (before everyone else), with traditional gear and garb, to capture the difficulties of the first ascent, except the biggest one: that it can be climbed

but that is the nature of ice climbing, ice climbs change with weather and use

to tell you the truth, I thought I had no chance getting on this climb, given the length of time I'd been away from ice climbing but I have to say the one thing that modern tools (and clothing) have done is make it more a "climbing" sport, and my rock climbing experience over the intervening decades helped. And I'm always game for a challenge...

as far as the mechanical integrity of ice as a climbing medium, well, if at any point in your life you convince yourself that it's ok, you probably can recreate those same delusions later in life... and it requires a lack of imagination as to what falling with all those pointy implements might imply, you basically don't think about falling... and you don't fall... which doesn't always happen, unfortunately.

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 17, 2012 - 04:10pm PT
Ed, let me know if you are interested in doing some local ice climbing. MAY go to coldstream canyon this weekend (wi3-5 lines 50m from what I heard), let me know if interested!
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Jan 17, 2012 - 04:10pm PT
Ed that was great. Nice job to you and those that were part of this.
steve shea

climber
Jan 17, 2012 - 05:04pm PT
To duplicate the first ascent one would need substatially thinner conditions also. Ed's photos are as fat as I've seen it. Last year in the west we had record snow amounts creating a solid ground water table. Ames Falls is as much a seep as a creek. It looks really fat SS
westhegimp

Social climber
granada hills
Jan 17, 2012 - 07:42pm PT
Wow nice video! Thanks, Ed for taking the time to put this TR together. Super Bad! :)

Wes
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
Jan 18, 2012 - 04:05pm PT
Very nice Ed, Thanks!
Branscomb

Trad climber
Lander, WY
Jan 19, 2012 - 11:29am PT
Nice video and a fine job of climbing. You all made it look easy. Yes! I love it!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 19, 2012 - 11:42am PT
Great TR Ed!

So ya like that frosty stuff, eh?

More Ames history from Glenn Randall's Vertigo Games.




Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 21, 2012 - 12:32pm PT
Frosty Professor Bump...
Messages 21 - 39 of total 39 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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