Shaver Lake CA area climbing....help!

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 32 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Flydude

Trad climber
Prather, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 16, 2011 - 01:49am PT
Looking for history, info and stuff on climbing in the Shaver Lake area. This would include Wimovi Pluton, Dogma Dome, Bald Mountain, Land Of The Hunderd Foot Boulders, Condome and Dinky Dome.

Found old bolts on Dogma (aka Kangaroo Crag)in the late 80's that I would like to know more about as well as the super trad Bard Bros. exploits on Condome...got a bunch of route names there but don't know what goes with what...yikes!

Yer help will help put together the history there....thanks, flydude.
apogee

climber
Nov 16, 2011 - 02:02am PT
There's a nice contingent of West Side Locals that should be along any minute to beta you. (I'll be lurking.)

Spent more than a few summers at Lakeshore/Sierra Summit working for Outward Bound- can't say I rose anywhere close to the level of the WS Locals in terms of beta, but I can understand your aspirations!
doughnutnational

Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
Nov 16, 2011 - 10:17am PT
Leave it alone. I hope those who know keep quiet. I went to the Leap this summer and I was so happy to live in a guide free area.
P.Rob

Social climber
Pacomia, Ca - Y Que?
Nov 16, 2011 - 10:23am PT
Jeff Harris turned me on to the Land of a Hundred foot Boulders back in the Mid 80's. Andy DesJarlis & I visted there a few times. Two things stand out; the boulders themselves are not 100' tall and every route we climbed is way harder than I can climb now.

Mr. Doughnut - how you doing?
doughnutnational

Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
Nov 16, 2011 - 10:36am PT
Doing well P Rob, A few years back I rode the Bald Mountain Jeep trail and there was a Toyota truck with an extension ladder on a lumber rack parked near the entrance to the land of the 15- 60' boulders (name changed to reflect the true size). Never found the owner and always wondered if they were boulderers.
P.Rob

Social climber
Pacomia, Ca - Y Que?
Nov 16, 2011 - 11:05am PT
We accessed it via the Harris express- seemed very much like USFS land - been wanting to go back up there with my bear dog. Blaine & I did Knocking on Heavens Door at TH this past Sunday.We chose to use the fixed pro that was placed subsequent to the FA - a lot of fun - impressive doughnut Power used on the FA.You up to do anything this Sunday?
P.Rob

Social climber
Pacomia, Ca - Y Que?
Nov 20, 2011 - 12:09pm PT
Flydude

Have you spoken with Paul Martzen? I remember BITD that he had collected some relevant info
Chris Acree

Social climber
Fresno
Aug 1, 2014 - 02:11pm PT
Dwight Kroll is the expert, notes on all these areas, believe he is working on a new guidebook. I have put up some routes with friends around there up to 12+, most probably haven't seen a second ascent since. I would love these areas to be more open to climbers, but there seems to be a secrecy ethic abound. Not sure if this is based on access/environmental issues, I doubt it. This area naturally limits visitors as there is a low route density making it a hard sell for climbing tourists.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Aug 1, 2014 - 02:16pm PT
Paul is still recovering from a borken heel (from falling off a ladder!), so you should be able to reach him. Tim Schiller and I climbed on some formations not on your list in the early 1970's, but if I told you where, I'd have to kill you. . .

John
this just in

climber
north fork
Aug 1, 2014 - 02:19pm PT
Flydude should get ahold of Dwight Kroll or maybe that Ludwig guy. Lol.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Aug 1, 2014 - 02:28pm PT
Chris, Flydude is to Dwight Koll as Spider-Man is to peter parker

A guide won't noticeably increase traffic up there. It's the same thing people say about dozens of west side areas but their proximity to world famous venues and distance from populated areas will prevent any line ups any time soon.
apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Aug 1, 2014 - 02:29pm PT
Ludwig guy is Reeotch here at ST.
this just in

climber
north fork
Aug 1, 2014 - 02:38pm PT
Try again apogee.
apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Aug 1, 2014 - 02:43pm PT
Are we talking about the same Ludwig guy?

The one I'm talking about did a sh#t-ton around that doughnut area above Shaver. He goes by Reeotch here at ST.
this just in

climber
north fork
Aug 1, 2014 - 02:47pm PT
Lol, yup Mr doughnutnational himself.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Aug 1, 2014 - 02:55pm PT
A guide won't noticeably increase traffic up there. It's the same thing people say about dozens of west side areas but their proximity to world famous venues and distance from populated areas will prevent any line ups any time soon.


SOOOOOOO true.....

keeping secrets is so 1970's ....
apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Aug 1, 2014 - 03:35pm PT
Reeotch = doughnutnational?

I don't think so...
PAUL SOUZA

Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
Aug 1, 2014 - 03:44pm PT
If you search on here, I have posted a link to a PDF copy of the SEKI guide, which has some of Shaver Lake in it.

Also, I would discourage people from climbing on Bald Mountain since there is an easy 4x4 trail to the fire watch tower at the top, which attracts non-climbers who like to trundle rocks off the top. I have witnessed such acts in the past.
this just in

climber
north fork
Aug 1, 2014 - 03:59pm PT
Aug 1, 2014 - 03:35pm PT
Reeotch = doughnutnational?

Nope, let me try to explain this to you one last time. Ludwig is doughnutnational. Just as Flydude is Dwight. I mean it's pretty simple.
apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Aug 1, 2014 - 04:04pm PT
Don't be a jerk, tji.

I know Reeotch (personally) very well. From the pictures I've seen of doughnutnational, I didn't think they were the same guy. (At least, I thought they were a different guy.)
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