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| Messages 1 - 31 of total 31 in this topic |
Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 16, 2011 - 01:49am PT
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Looking for history, info and stuff on climbing in the Shaver Lake area. This would include Wimovi Pluton, Dogma Dome, Bald Mountain, Land Of The Hunderd Foot Boulders, Condome and Dinky Dome.
Found old bolts on Dogma (aka Kangaroo Crag)in the late 80's that I would like to know more about as well as the super trad Bard Bros. exploits on Condome...got a bunch of route names there but don't know what goes with what...yikes!
Yer help will help put together the history there....thanks, flydude.
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apogee
climber
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Nov 16, 2011 - 02:02am PT
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There's a nice contingent of West Side Locals that should be along any minute to beta you. (I'll be lurking.)
Spent more than a few summers at Lakeshore/Sierra Summit working for Outward Bound- can't say I rose anywhere close to the level of the WS Locals in terms of beta, but I can understand your aspirations!
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Nov 16, 2011 - 10:17am PT
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Leave it alone. I hope those who know keep quiet. I went to the Leap this summer and I was so happy to live in a guide free area.
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P.Rob
Social climber
Pacomia, Ca - Y Que?
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Nov 16, 2011 - 10:23am PT
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Jeff Harris turned me on to the Land of a Hundred foot Boulders back in the Mid 80's. Andy DesJarlis & I visted there a few times. Two things stand out; the boulders themselves are not 100' tall and every route we climbed is way harder than I can climb now.
Mr. Doughnut - how you doing?
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Nov 16, 2011 - 10:36am PT
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Doing well P Rob, A few years back I rode the Bald Mountain Jeep trail and there was a Toyota truck with an extension ladder on a lumber rack parked near the entrance to the land of the 15- 60' boulders (name changed to reflect the true size). Never found the owner and always wondered if they were boulderers.
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P.Rob
Social climber
Pacomia, Ca - Y Que?
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Nov 16, 2011 - 11:05am PT
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We accessed it via the Harris express- seemed very much like USFS land - been wanting to go back up there with my bear dog. Blaine & I did Knocking on Heavens Door at TH this past Sunday.We chose to use the fixed pro that was placed subsequent to the FA - a lot of fun - impressive doughnut Power used on the FA.You up to do anything this Sunday?
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P.Rob
Social climber
Pacomia, Ca - Y Que?
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Nov 20, 2011 - 12:09pm PT
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Flydude
Have you spoken with Paul Martzen? I remember BITD that he had collected some relevant info
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Chris Acree
Social climber
Fresno
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Dwight Kroll is the expert, notes on all these areas, believe he is working on a new guidebook. I have put up some routes with friends around there up to 12+, most probably haven't seen a second ascent since. I would love these areas to be more open to climbers, but there seems to be a secrecy ethic abound. Not sure if this is based on access/environmental issues, I doubt it. This area naturally limits visitors as there is a low route density making it a hard sell for climbing tourists.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Paul is still recovering from a borken heel (from falling off a ladder!), so you should be able to reach him. Tim Schiller and I climbed on some formations not on your list in the early 1970's, but if I told you where, I'd have to kill you. . .
John
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Flydude should get ahold of Dwight Kroll or maybe that Ludwig guy. Lol.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Chris, Flydude is to Dwight Koll as Spider-Man is to peter parker
A guide won't noticeably increase traffic up there. It's the same thing people say about dozens of west side areas but their proximity to world famous venues and distance from populated areas will prevent any line ups any time soon.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Ludwig guy is Reeotch here at ST.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Are we talking about the same Ludwig guy?
The one I'm talking about did a sh#t-ton around that doughnut area above Shaver. He goes by Reeotch here at ST.
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Lol, yup Mr doughnutnational himself.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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A guide won't noticeably increase traffic up there. It's the same thing people say about dozens of west side areas but their proximity to world famous venues and distance from populated areas will prevent any line ups any time soon.
SOOOOOOO true.....
keeping secrets is so 1970's ....
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Reeotch = doughnutnational?
I don't think so...
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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If you search on here, I have posted a link to a PDF copy of the SEKI guide, which has some of Shaver Lake in it.
Also, I would discourage people from climbing on Bald Mountain since there is an easy 4x4 trail to the fire watch tower at the top, which attracts non-climbers who like to trundle rocks off the top. I have witnessed such acts in the past.
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Aug 1, 2014 - 03:35pm PT
Reeotch = doughnutnational?
Nope, let me try to explain this to you one last time. Ludwig is doughnutnational. Just as Flydude is Dwight. I mean it's pretty simple.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Don't be a jerk, tji.
I know Reeotch (personally) very well. From the pictures I've seen of doughnutnational, I didn't think they were the same guy. (At least, I thought they were a different guy.)
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Haha, I'm talking about Kevin Ludwig. Is Reeoch a Ludwig too?
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Yes...ain't that weird?
And he was a regular at doughnut nation!
Go figure!
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Really? Maybe they are brothers? F*#king funny. My smartassness getting the better of me.
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Lurking Fear
Boulder climber
Bishop, California
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I want to know more about the bouldering at Doughnut Nation. Is it any good? What can Mr. Ludwig tell us about this. I've heard stories.
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
suspendedhappynation
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Allan and Dale Bard did a bunch of stuff in the early 70's. They were working at the camp "Golden Arrow"? at Hunington Lake.
They were all over the Dinky Creek area. I climbed a number of cool routes off the Dinky Creek road with AB back then but don't know the name of the climbs/Domes.
Also, the Hudson Brothers lived in Big Creek and were quite active too.
Tom Carter
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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So many other spots off Dinky Creek road. You just have to go scout it up.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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You guys ever post a sign on the last bit of the trail so the 4x4s can see it, that says:
"Please do not throw objects from the rock. There can be climbers below a different times of day or night. It would be a shame to kill someone from reckless disregard of other outdoor users. Not only that, but the wilderness action triggered cameras may catch your plates."
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two-shoes
Trad climber
Auberry, CA
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There has been a fixed metal sign on the top of Dome Rock and I think that it has only encouraged people to throw even more rocks! Nearly got beaned myself there, and one rock did hit my belayer, injuring his shoulder. We nearly got hit before on Bald Mountain, too. I think the safest time to climb Bald is after school starts, and during the weekdays. Make sure to wear your favorite lucky charm, too.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Bring a 12 guage.... with #8 shot.
One time at Dome rock we did just that.
Rocks started flying off the top.....
we started yelling .......
more rocks, and more rocks!!!
Shoot that sucker- 2 times straight up... pellets go eveywhere.
Rocks stopped.
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Aug 10, 2014 - 09:19am PT
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Scary sh#t. Just happened to me a few weeks ago on Fresno Dome. They were throwing rocks andactually trundling basketball size stone. Had I not been belaying a follower at that time I would have free soloed the last portion and put a stop to that crap. I was so fricken pissed.
Plenty to of granite out there.....just a little scouting and you can find years of projects. I keep mine secret until I climbed all the lines I wanted.
I like Berry's idea
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 22, 2015 - 09:10pm PT
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Well, what started out as the tear out "climber-proof" insert to the upcoming Courtright and area guide there are now weather proof "cliff notes" for the Shaver Lake area. I've got Wimovi, Dogma, Bald Mtn and Con Dome in there. (but I didn't give away them other secrets).
Thanks all for the help on this.
MetalMark gym in Fresno has 'em or send me an email @ dwightk@cityofclovis.com and I can send one out.
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