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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 30, 2011 - 06:22pm PT
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Okay Trad Dudes and Dudetts:
Off we go with a new Courtright Guide now that Tollhouse Rock is completed. Tell us of yer' new lines, epics, lost classics and adventures.
Tollhouse guide available mid-August 2011...Dwight
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Jul 30, 2011 - 07:16pm PT
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There is a route on Power Dome called "Consider Me Gone." The first ascent was done by me (David Evans) and Craig Fry and named by me. It is old school 10c and somewhat runout, all 4 pitches were done by us in one push. All bolts placed on the lead by us. The old Sally Moser guide has a bogus FA party listed.
I always thought it wierd that it had the correct name and the wrong FA party.
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2011 - 08:19pm PT
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Thanks for the response. I couldn't do this without yer' help...keep em' comming...(even stuff that you might think everyone knows about but wasn't in the former guide)
I'm familiar with some focused areas @ Courtright, but am very thankful on feedback on anything climbed there.
Greg Vernon did a great job on the first guide, however speaking from experience, there will always be some errors that should be corrected.
Thanks, dwight
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 30, 2011 - 08:34pm PT
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um, recommended rack includes lowe tri cams down to the tiny ones.
j/k
Will it include Wishon and surrounding areas?
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Sagebrush Sally
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Ca
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Jul 30, 2011 - 08:43pm PT
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I'm very excited to hear about the new guide coming. There is so much great rock down there and I've not ever seen the old guide. I knew a guy at UC Davis named Matt Schutz from Clovis, who put up a lot of routes in that area, and he would probably be a good resource for beta. I think he's up in Seattle now, not sure if he is a super topo person or not.
Thanks for going through the effort.
SS
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2011 - 02:30am PT
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Currently I'm working on Courtright but will expand to Wishon and outlying areas toward the end of the project. At the current rate, I'm probably a couple years out from completion...thanks for the feedback...
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Rockin' Gal
Trad climber
Boulder
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Good luck with the project, Dwight. May your guidebook be without errors!
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Good work! Please keep 'em coming.
John
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2011 - 12:05am PT
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Hey Rock'in Gal...you've been through this before...I'm a, gonna try to make you proud. It's been great to connect with old friends and new routes...some things don't change. Have had a lot of support on the project so....okay.... Greg, Solem, Herb, B. Chambers and others have been very supportive in launching out....yikes!
Hope all is great with you....d.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Ksolem and Ggnome may have some insights too.
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Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
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Don't publish it, keep Courtright wild and friendly. Spend your time publishing a guide to preserving the fragile ecosystem of the Courtright flora and fauna.
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Aug 30, 2011 - 04:04pm PT
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Will this dome be in the new guide?
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Aug 31, 2011 - 08:58am PT
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Aug 31, 2011 - 11:12am PT
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You will also need to talk to Herb Laeger as he has put many routes up.
Herb and I put up a nice 10b and an 11b on Duzy Dome. The 11b goes up a dike.
Kris Solem and Guy Keesee and I put up The Gold Standard on the right side of Voyager Dome. I has 6 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor and it goes at least 12c with each bolt harder to get to then the one before.
Jan McCollum
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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doughnut,
How many routes on "not power dome" now? I've long wanted to check that out.
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David Knopp
Trad climber
CA
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where is this "not power dome?" I'm "not" even really sure i could get on it....
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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I've always just googled and then ogled at it...
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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If there are any routes on it they are sparsely protected. I walked most of the base and saw no bolts. I kind of want someone to put some routes on it so I can do them, but maybe I can convince some of my drill owning friends that it should be them and me. If you care enough to look me up in the Fresno phonebook and call me I'll talk to you if your not a serial grid bolter, chipper, guidebook author,rap bolter or otherwise of low moral charachter. Kevin Ludwig
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 11, 2011 - 01:52pm PT
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Hi All:
Gonna start focusing on Trapper and Spring Domes and vicinity for the guide update. Any info out there on new stuff, corrections to the previous guide and bouldering would be really helpful. Was hoping to spend a day up there this weekend, but the T-storms (and bow hunting) curtailed that.
More Importantly, for those who know Barry Chambers, he took a fall yesterday and fractured his pelvis, he's currently at Community Hospital in Fresno will find out more today....d.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Sep 11, 2011 - 02:11pm PT
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Really sorry to hear about Barry's injury. Hope he makes a swift and full recovery!
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