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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 30, 2011 - 06:22pm PT
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Okay Trad Dudes and Dudetts:
Off we go with a new Courtright Guide now that Tollhouse Rock is completed. Tell us of yer' new lines, epics, lost classics and adventures.
Tollhouse guide available mid-August 2011...Dwight
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Jul 30, 2011 - 07:16pm PT
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There is a route on Power Dome called "Consider Me Gone." The first ascent was done by me (David Evans) and Craig Fry and named by me. It is old school 10c and somewhat runout, all 4 pitches were done by us in one push. All bolts placed on the lead by us. The old Sally Moser guide has a bogus FA party listed.
I always thought it wierd that it had the correct name and the wrong FA party.
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2011 - 08:19pm PT
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Thanks for the response. I couldn't do this without yer' help...keep em' comming...(even stuff that you might think everyone knows about but wasn't in the former guide)
I'm familiar with some focused areas @ Courtright, but am very thankful on feedback on anything climbed there.
Greg Vernon did a great job on the first guide, however speaking from experience, there will always be some errors that should be corrected.
Thanks, dwight
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 30, 2011 - 08:34pm PT
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um, recommended rack includes lowe tri cams down to the tiny ones.
j/k
Will it include Wishon and surrounding areas?
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Sagebrush Sally
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Ca
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Jul 30, 2011 - 08:43pm PT
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I'm very excited to hear about the new guide coming. There is so much great rock down there and I've not ever seen the old guide. I knew a guy at UC Davis named Matt Schutz from Clovis, who put up a lot of routes in that area, and he would probably be a good resource for beta. I think he's up in Seattle now, not sure if he is a super topo person or not.
Thanks for going through the effort.
SS
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2011 - 02:30am PT
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Currently I'm working on Courtright but will expand to Wishon and outlying areas toward the end of the project. At the current rate, I'm probably a couple years out from completion...thanks for the feedback...
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Rockin' Gal
Trad climber
Boulder
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Good luck with the project, Dwight. May your guidebook be without errors!
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Good work! Please keep 'em coming.
John
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2011 - 12:05am PT
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Hey Rock'in Gal...you've been through this before...I'm a, gonna try to make you proud. It's been great to connect with old friends and new routes...some things don't change. Have had a lot of support on the project so....okay.... Greg, Solem, Herb, B. Chambers and others have been very supportive in launching out....yikes!
Hope all is great with you....d.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Ksolem and Ggnome may have some insights too.
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Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
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Don't publish it, keep Courtright wild and friendly. Spend your time publishing a guide to preserving the fragile ecosystem of the Courtright flora and fauna.
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Aug 30, 2011 - 04:04pm PT
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Will this dome be in the new guide?
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Aug 31, 2011 - 08:58am PT
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Aug 31, 2011 - 11:12am PT
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You will also need to talk to Herb Laeger as he has put many routes up.
Herb and I put up a nice 10b and an 11b on Duzy Dome. The 11b goes up a dike.
Kris Solem and Guy Keesee and I put up The Gold Standard on the right side of Voyager Dome. I has 6 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor and it goes at least 12c with each bolt harder to get to then the one before.
Jan McCollum
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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doughnut,
How many routes on "not power dome" now? I've long wanted to check that out.
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David Knopp
Trad climber
CA
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where is this "not power dome?" I'm "not" even really sure i could get on it....
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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I've always just googled and then ogled at it...
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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If there are any routes on it they are sparsely protected. I walked most of the base and saw no bolts. I kind of want someone to put some routes on it so I can do them, but maybe I can convince some of my drill owning friends that it should be them and me. If you care enough to look me up in the Fresno phonebook and call me I'll talk to you if your not a serial grid bolter, chipper, guidebook author,rap bolter or otherwise of low moral charachter. Kevin Ludwig
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 11, 2011 - 01:52pm PT
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Hi All:
Gonna start focusing on Trapper and Spring Domes and vicinity for the guide update. Any info out there on new stuff, corrections to the previous guide and bouldering would be really helpful. Was hoping to spend a day up there this weekend, but the T-storms (and bow hunting) curtailed that.
More Importantly, for those who know Barry Chambers, he took a fall yesterday and fractured his pelvis, he's currently at Community Hospital in Fresno will find out more today....d.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Sep 11, 2011 - 02:11pm PT
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Really sorry to hear about Barry's injury. Hope he makes a swift and full recovery!
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shakin' man
Trad climber
california
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Sep 11, 2011 - 05:15pm PT
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I had to make a first time post. I sure hope Barry has a speedy recovery. I just had him resole some 5.10 Pitons which turned out great.
He definitely pushes the envelope at his young age. I was up at courtright in july with him, kevin and herb putting up one of herb's thin slab routes. He took a couple of falls and got the bolt in. Keep us updated..I'll have my daughters make him some get climbing again cards.
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Sep 12, 2011 - 03:36pm PT
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Dwight -
Howz progress on the guide? Curious. Bummer for Barry!! Did you go see him?
Heard you are organzing the T-House Faceoff......good on you. Would love to hook up and see how things are shakin. Gonna be in Shuteye on the 24th of Sept weekend.
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vector
climber
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Sep 12, 2011 - 08:07pm PT
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Hi, this is Barry's significant other and best friend.
Here's the full report:
Barry was supposed to go climbing Saturday, but the weather was threatening so he stayed home, did some resoles and worked on the house, which we've been painting, and I went to town. He was on the roof walking backward caulking and lost track of how far he was from the edge as he hurried to finish up, stepped off the roof and landed on concrete. He has fractures in 2 places on his right pelvis and fractures of the transverse processes of some lumbar vertebrae. These are painful and no fun injuries but he is neurologically intact and everything will heal. Right now he can't even roll over in bed, much less sit or stand, so shop time has become both long and unpredictable. He is home after 23 ER hours and we're both needing some rest, but I heard this thread was up and wanted to be reassuring and also to let everyone know this was not a climbing accident. Climbing is safe compared to working. Even mountain goats can fall.
Appreciate your concern,
LVR
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vector
climber
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Updated Barry report
Barry is still not allowed to walk full force on his left leg so he trudges around with trekking poles looking like a cross between Charlie Chaplin and Redd Foxx. He is doing physical therapy with the usual Barry Chambers intensity and thoroughness and should be back on the rock by about New Year's, with luck. Resoling is still slow - it's pretty hard to work efficiently if you have to support part of your weight on your hands.
Readers Digest Condensed Version - getting better fast.
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2012 - 10:54pm PT
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Hey All...The best news is that Barry Chambers (Barry's Resoles) is walking and climbing...and climbing great!...Mr. Tollhouse is back!
The Courtright guide is under development, and it is a big project. ...so much bigger than I ever imagined. What I thought could go together in a year or so is certainly going to take longer to do the right thing for this awsome place.
I've received an outpouring of help and encouragement from both oldsters and newsters and am so grateful for everyone's input and help!...there are some very cool new routes to compliment the established cool!
It was a remarkably short summer followed by an early gate closing dry winter, so I didn't get a lot of exploration in but looking at getting back at it as the roads permit.
Sincerely, I wish to thank everyone for the support on this project and keep that info comming...Happy New Year and Happy Climbs to ya'...d.
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Jan 16, 2012 - 11:52am PT
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Met Barry at Squarenail yesterday afternoon -- he was out climbing with Dwight. Real nice folks.
Barry told us some of the local history, and even showed us one of the namesake square nails left over from the old flume.
Picked up a copy of the new Tollhouse guide from one of the local stores (Cressman's) and was impressed; looking forward to the Courtright guide !
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Jan 16, 2012 - 12:31pm PT
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How do we contact this Barry's resoles guy?
I've got a sack of shoes that need resoles and need someone SOLID.
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crazy horse
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Mar 27, 2012 - 08:42pm PT
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wow, thanks dwight for the contribution to the area. let me know how i can help. I will definitely be interested in submitting the limited info i have that you may not at this point.
Get well soon Barry!!
Doughnut, Thanks for the sweet shot. That took about 3 minutes to find on Google Earth. Would love to head out there. Got a power drill and love to do stuff on lead!! Yeehaw!!
Rhyang, Cressmans also sells the best salsa i've ever bought in a plastic tin, it says 'sierra salsa' on top. Watch out it's pretty spicey but really good!!
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2012 - 01:42am PT
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Starting work on locke rock and leoopold dome. Any info out there would be great! / Thanks to all who have contributed so far...it is a big project, but comming togeth
er...what a cool place!...to those who have helped...i'll send you a guide when done...whew!...d.
((
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Dwight, Good job working on the guide! I have some photos (slides) of Slick on Trapper and Barry too. Interested?? Let me know if so. Rene'
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Loomis
climber
Peklo Vole!
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FlyDoode, where the hell is this place? Gotta see it!
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Byran
climber
Merced, CA
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We made our first trip to Courtright about a week ago with just some scraps of information from the internet. Awesome place and I am super psyched that there's a new guidebook on the way. We did some great climbs on Power Dome, Tiger Wall & Cage, Spring Dome, and Trapper Dome, but there were lots of formations we'd look over at and think "man I wish I had some beta for THAT thing".
Here's a few photos from our trip
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ruppell
climber
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Locke Rock looks amazing. The only info I could find on it is in the old guide. All of three routes are listed. lol So if any of you locals know the skinny cough it up. Also I've got some free time on my hands towards the end of Sept. If anyone wants to go in there and get after it let me know. I think going in by canoe would be cool as hell. Haven't been there in three years but would make the drive over from the east side to go check out that dome in a heartbeat.
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Loomis
climber
Peklo Vole!
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The first ascent of "Orgasm Addict" 5.10 Hand drilling the old quarter inch bolts.
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Loomis
climber
Peklo Vole!
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The first ascent of "Nosferatu" 5.10
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Loomis
climber
Peklo Vole!
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The first ascent of "Zodiac Mind Warp"
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Loomis
climber
Peklo Vole!
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Hook set and ready to drill...
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2012 - 11:51pm PT
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Hey all...hada big look at swiss cheese wall yesterday. Some great routes out there! So who did what? What a spectacular location...i'm going back for some of those leads on who's knows what. Worked on a couple toloumne-like lines on penstemon today...only saw one other party in the whole place.
Any info on swiss cheese or new courtright routes would be helpful.
Chambers, Rose and Ludwig have done some rebolting on their power dome routes to make classics, classics.
The guide is progressing thanks to all of your help...cant say when it will be finished, but i hope to honor everyone's vision and art here...
Regatds....d.-
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2012 - 01:03pm PT
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Hey jeremy, i think the route that you're refering to in your aug 9 post is "dont go changing". P1-fun .8 face. P2-ditto. P3-steep corner to. 10b face. P4-moderate face to summit overhangs.
The route is named in honor of Slick Watts who nearly died of a backcountry diabetes incident. Slick is great and so is the route.
Jeremy,hope to cross paths....d.
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 12, 2012 - 01:50am PT
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Had fun with Scary Barry (Mr. Tollhouse) and McHam "The Man" on Swiss Cheese Wall last weekend. That was some beautiful stuff!...f.d.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 13, 2012 - 01:21pm PT
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Herb.... knows about Swiss Cheese.
Scott.... where has all the time gone??
Looking forward to new guide book.
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P.Rob
Social climber
Pacomia, Ca - Y Que?
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Sep 13, 2012 - 08:56pm PT
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Chambers, Rose and Ludwig have done some rebolting on their power dome routes to make classics, classics.
FlyDude,
does that mean Mr.Doughnut has added or just replaced bolts on his classic Power Dome route Smegmathon?
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Sep 13, 2012 - 09:13pm PT
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I am only slightly ashamed that it is now the easiest route up Power Dome and look forward to doing it with my wife (again) and daughter. Thanks to Barry and Kenny for helping convince me that it was the right thing to do and for helping do it. Sorry to my original partner Dave Ryan,(I tried to find you and even asked Nat Patridge)but since he thought the route was retarded in the first place I'm pretty sure he'd be ok with it.
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P.Rob
Social climber
Pacomia, Ca - Y Que?
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Sep 13, 2012 - 10:11pm PT
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Too many years have past but how did the orig. Rock & Ice article describe that run out ... As "unnecessary" i believe ; 0) .. I often wish Kev that I listened to your - well lets say encouragement and spent more time at Courwright - damn that Table Tops & my proclivity for good bud & easy access
P.S. didn't you & Dave put uP Aggro101 boulder problem @ TT ?
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 15, 2012 - 03:53pm PT
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Hey chief, good to hear from you. Great shots of Slick!
Where the h--l are you?
Great memories of climbing in Sequoia with you and the old SSCA group.
Hope life is great with you...f.d.
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 22, 2012 - 08:16pm PT
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Looking for info on the Dusy Dome right area @Courtright. Anyone know who put up routes in this area?
thanks, d.
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Nanobody
Trad climber
Fresno, CA
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May 10, 2016 - 02:47pm PT
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Curious. Is this guidebook effort still in the works?
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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May 10, 2016 - 04:41pm PT
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If I recall correctly, it's at the publisher already?
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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May 10, 2016 - 04:46pm PT
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Heard it was pulled due to it taking too long and now looking at another publisher.?,? I saw it in a ring binder awhile back and it looked Great!!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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May 10, 2016 - 08:38pm PT
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Courtright stoke. The Smiladon...
Did I mention it's not all slabs up there.
:-)
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2016 - 05:28pm PT
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The latest final is with Kevin Daniels as of last week. Please give him your positive encouragement to do the deed!
I truly believe K. Daniels is the ticket to a great guide for Courtright. Shortly they will have the Solem Needles guide out which should be awesome. regards all, dwight
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 20, 2016 - 05:35pm PT
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Courtright stoke bump.
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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May 20, 2016 - 07:39pm PT
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Consider me a pre-preorder! :D
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| Messages 1 - 53 of total 53 in this topic |
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