The Eiger Mordwand

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Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 22, 2011 - 10:52am PT
It was 75 years ago today that the debacle came to a close.

Hinterstoisser was already dead only days after engineering the traverse that his name would forever invoke in climbing history. Austrians Angerer and Rainer had died as well.

Only Toni Kurz remained alive and, agonizingly slowly, he attempted to rope down to the railway window where would be rescuers had gathered.
A knot jammed on the rock and, with the rescuers able to touch his crampon tips with their axes, Kurz could go no farther.

Reportedly he looked at them and muttered that 'it was finished' (I believe that would be, "Es ist vorbei."), and swung outward.

Later that year the bodies (including those of Sedlemayer and Mehringer whose demise the year before had caused the naming of Death Bivouac) were recovered by guides.
Kurz had to be cut loose by means of a knife on a stick.






Just a little historical perspective. You may now return to politics and religion.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 22, 2011 - 10:59am PT
See the movie...

North Face
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
Jul 22, 2011 - 11:04am PT
I dunno, I thought Mordwand was a power-up in the Lord of the Rings video game...
Caveman

climber
Cumberland Plateau
Jul 22, 2011 - 11:11am PT
"Ich kann nicht mehr"
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Jul 22, 2011 - 11:17am PT

Climbing threads should have climbing photos!!
Thanks Ron.







Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jul 22, 2011 - 11:19am PT
Whillan's comment to the Japanese he met who were going up while he and _?_
were retreating was the best:

"Aye, you might be going a lot 'igher than you think."

Which, in fact, was the case.
squishy

Mountain climber
sacramento
Jul 22, 2011 - 11:31am PT
I am headed over to climb it in a week, wish me luck!!
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2011 - 11:35am PT
Take a helmet or you will be well named, squishy.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jul 22, 2011 - 11:36am PT
I thought it was " I'm finished".....?
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Jul 22, 2011 - 11:43am PT
Squishy, for realz???


Remember, that buzzing sound doesn't mean look up.
Practice hiding under yer helmet.

You better put up a helluva TR!!
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Jul 22, 2011 - 11:56am PT
Credit: Scott Thelen
Credit: Scott Thelen
Credit: Scott Thelen
local1

climber
CH
Jul 22, 2011 - 12:14pm PT
"I am headed over to climb it in a week, wish me luck!!"

uuh, lots of fresh snow right now above 3000m... hope u have enough time to wait a few days! Good luck!
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Jul 22, 2011 - 12:23pm PT

Can't wait to see Metanoia from Jello. . .
cintune

climber
Midvale School for the Gifted
Jul 22, 2011 - 12:32pm PT
"I can not."

'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Jul 22, 2011 - 12:37pm PT
Wasn't it a knot in the rope that jammed in Kurz' rappel carabiner that prevented him from going down far enough to be rescued?
rick d

climber
ol pueblo, az
Jul 22, 2011 - 12:39pm PT
kurz also said before he went up:

Die Wand ist unserer oder wir bleiben an ihr (I have the correct Deutsch somewhere)

The wall is ours or we stay (die) on it....
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 22, 2011 - 01:09pm PT
Wasn't it a knot in the rope that jammed in Kurz' rappel carabiner that prevented him from going down far enough to be rescued?

Seem to recall that. Hadn't he unravelled a rope they sent up and tied the pieces together?. Also had heard that after he passed on, they cut him down with a knife on a 10 foot long stick. Something they apparently didn't think of while he was "hanging in there". Yikes.

The movie is great, despite not having the famous quote, or, that there's a photo of him hanging with icicles on his crampons and the movie had them leaving their spikes.
stich

Trad climber
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Jul 22, 2011 - 01:39pm PT
The sad thing about Tony Kurz was that his rope was not long enough to reach the rescuers, so they instructed him to unbraid the rope and tie the ends together to make a longer rope. He had done all of this with hands so cold they were numb and useless. The problem was he did not know how to then cross the knot between the two strands and it jammed in his carabiner he was rappelling on.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2011 - 02:28pm PT
Must've been a gym noob.
cintune

climber
Midvale School for the Gifted
Jul 22, 2011 - 03:07pm PT
Exhausted, hypothermic, one hand frostbitten, delirious with shock and grief, um, yeah, typical noob situation.
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