Do the Wide with Pride

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 156 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Russ Walling

Social climber
Bishop, Ca.
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 27, 2003 - 07:45pm PT

Minerals

Social climber
The Deli
Feb 28, 2003 - 12:24am PT
Hey Russ,

Is that you? You look like you're groveling... :) How fun!
BASE104

Big Wall climber
norman, OK
Feb 28, 2003 - 06:49am PT
Yep. That looks like a pescador I knew once.

I saw the Fish float Bad Ass Mama in his cowboy boots like it was 5.6 one day. He had it ruthlessly wired. Took like thirty seconds. I couldn't drink my beer that fast.

Mark
up2top

Big Wall climber
Phoenix, AZ
Feb 28, 2003 - 10:39am PT
Niiiiice. I'll have to remeber that technique next time I'm gripped and wedged. I'm wondering, what was your next move?

Ed
Dingus Milktoast

climber
NorCal
Feb 28, 2003 - 11:13am PT
I'd guess 'two inches up and two inches out.' Or maybe just one.

Victories are incremental in the wyde country.

DMT
Dingus Milktoast

climber
NorCal
Feb 28, 2003 - 11:15am PT
By the way Russ, what in gods name is that white stuff on the fingers? Looks like AID to me!

DMT
Fingerlocks

Trad climber
where the climbing's good
Feb 28, 2003 - 11:36am PT
His fingers? What's a little tape when you are bare armed? I always dress up for the wide cracks or I don't get home with quite enough of my skin.


BTW, what are some good one pitch wide cracks to practice on in the Valley other than those at Arch Rock and the base of El Cap? (And yes, I'm eyeing Twilight) Say 9s and 10s?
Russ Walling

Social climber
Bishop, Ca.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2003 - 01:23pm PT
>By the way Russ, what in gods name is that white stuff on the fingers? Looks like AID to me! >

Yep.... tape is aid, if:
You are taping for size.
You are taping to protect UNDAMAGED skin.
You are taping for a better grip.

Tape is not aid, if:
You are taping your pant leg down.
You are taping a detached tendon.
You are taping anything that a doctor would call an evulsion.
You are taping a head wound.
You are hiding a protruding bone from your squeamish partner.

Russ
Russ Walling

Social climber
Bishop, Ca.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2003 - 01:30pm PT
>BTW, what are some good one pitch wide cracks to practice on in the Valley other than those at Arch Rock and the base of El Cap? (And yes, I'm eyeing Twilight) Say 9s and 10s? >

Chingando
Doggy Do
Orange Juice Ave.
Moby Dick
Vendetta
Generator Crack
Reeds Left

hmmm..... senior moment....
Best bet is to do Generator left side in, right side in and then stack it. Repeat....
Russ
AlexC

climber
Feb 28, 2003 - 02:33pm PT
>BTW, what are some good one pitch wide cracks to practice on in the Valley
>other than those at Arch Rock and the base of El Cap? (And yes, I'm eyeing
>Twilight) Say 9s and 10s?

I asked a similar question on rec.climbing and got some good recommendations. See the thread here:

Yosemite Hardman Offwidth Circuit thread
Fingerlocks

Trad climber
where the climbing's good
Feb 28, 2003 - 02:41pm PT
Thanks. That should keep me busy.
coiler

Trad climber
yosemite
Feb 28, 2003 - 10:27pm PT
Russ' wide crack stacking looked pretty good. But as far as style he seem's to be missing the number one thing, an icy Olde English 800. It always seems to help me get loose for the wide. A few of coiler's favorite wide crack obscurities, high test ones he recommends: The hourglass left and right, Steppin' out, Reed's left, Agent orange, Alley cat and Doggie do just to name a few. A must try at Lover's Leap is "God of Thunder" a true Offwidth problem that demands levittation and stacking to surmount two large overhangs. It's first pitch is perfect fingers(to help you warm up), Excellent!
burger

Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
Mar 1, 2003 - 03:59pm PT
That picture makes me want to puke!.... Looks like fun in a demented sort of way though.
burger

Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
Mar 1, 2003 - 04:02pm PT
Anyone been up that offwidth/chimney horror fest on Calaveras Dome? Looks completely nuts, or are the pictures just decieving?
clustiere

Big Wall climber
prescott az
Mar 6, 2003 - 08:15pm PT
If you live in So Cal try 11 double d, and the wave (both close to eachother). These are in the Lake Arrowhead pinnicles (prime in winter and early spring). Refer to the new guide book to the San Bernadino Mountains, Hidden Treasures by Brad Singer.
clustiere

Trad climber
running springs, ca
Jan 5, 2005 - 11:41am PT
You should see Ken Kennega!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Blowboarder

Boulder climber
Sandpoint, Idaho
Jan 5, 2005 - 11:57am PT
FISH SAID

"Chingando
Doggy Do
Orange Juice Ave.
Moby Dick
Vendetta
Generator Crack
Reeds Left"

Howz about 1096?
dirtineye

Trad climber
the south
Jan 5, 2005 - 12:03pm PT
Got any more pics in that sequence? I wanna see the next two moves.
Russ Walling

Social climber
Bishop is DEAD, long live JT
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2005 - 12:04pm PT
how about 1096?

That one ain't exactly for neophytes to be practicing on.
Blowboarder

Boulder climber
Sandpoint, Idaho
Jan 5, 2005 - 12:11pm PT
No, but he said he wanted to try 9's & 10's. It's rated 10d, correct.

All I know is that it's kicked my ass twice (not that I'm rad at fat cracks or anything), I only wanted to do it because the guy that taught me how to climb did the FA (not sure when but it was pre-cam and there's a photo of it in Vertical World of Yosemite and he's all the way at the top of the squeeze section with his last hex like 40 feet below in the last constriction).

At 55, he's still much harder than I.
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