Discussion Topic |
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Bishop, Ca.
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 27, 2003 - 07:45pm PT
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Feb 28, 2003 - 12:24am PT
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Hey Russ,
Is that you? You look like you're groveling... :) How fun!
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BASE104
Big Wall climber
norman, OK
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Feb 28, 2003 - 06:49am PT
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Yep. That looks like a pescador I knew once.
I saw the Fish float Bad Ass Mama in his cowboy boots like it was 5.6 one day. He had it ruthlessly wired. Took like thirty seconds. I couldn't drink my beer that fast.
Mark
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up2top
Big Wall climber
Phoenix, AZ
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Feb 28, 2003 - 10:39am PT
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Niiiiice. I'll have to remeber that technique next time I'm gripped and wedged. I'm wondering, what was your next move?
Ed
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Fingerlocks
Trad climber
where the climbing's good
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Feb 28, 2003 - 11:36am PT
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His fingers? What's a little tape when you are bare armed? I always dress up for the wide cracks or I don't get home with quite enough of my skin.
BTW, what are some good one pitch wide cracks to practice on in the Valley other than those at Arch Rock and the base of El Cap? (And yes, I'm eyeing Twilight) Say 9s and 10s?
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Bishop, Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2003 - 01:23pm PT
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>By the way Russ, what in gods name is that white stuff on the fingers? Looks like AID to me! >
Yep.... tape is aid, if:
You are taping for size.
You are taping to protect UNDAMAGED skin.
You are taping for a better grip.
Tape is not aid, if:
You are taping your pant leg down.
You are taping a detached tendon.
You are taping anything that a doctor would call an evulsion.
You are taping a head wound.
You are hiding a protruding bone from your squeamish partner.
Russ
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Bishop, Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2003 - 01:30pm PT
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>BTW, what are some good one pitch wide cracks to practice on in the Valley other than those at Arch Rock and the base of El Cap? (And yes, I'm eyeing Twilight) Say 9s and 10s? >
Chingando
Doggy Do
Orange Juice Ave.
Moby Dick
Vendetta
Generator Crack
Reeds Left
hmmm..... senior moment....
Best bet is to do Generator left side in, right side in and then stack it. Repeat....
Russ
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AlexC
climber
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Feb 28, 2003 - 02:33pm PT
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>BTW, what are some good one pitch wide cracks to practice on in the Valley
>other than those at Arch Rock and the base of El Cap? (And yes, I'm eyeing
>Twilight) Say 9s and 10s?
I asked a similar question on rec.climbing and got some good recommendations. See the thread here:
Yosemite Hardman Offwidth Circuit thread
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Fingerlocks
Trad climber
where the climbing's good
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Feb 28, 2003 - 02:41pm PT
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Thanks. That should keep me busy.
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coiler
Trad climber
yosemite
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Feb 28, 2003 - 10:27pm PT
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Russ' wide crack stacking looked pretty good. But as far as style he seem's to be missing the number one thing, an icy Olde English 800. It always seems to help me get loose for the wide. A few of coiler's favorite wide crack obscurities, high test ones he recommends: The hourglass left and right, Steppin' out, Reed's left, Agent orange, Alley cat and Doggie do just to name a few. A must try at Lover's Leap is "God of Thunder" a true Offwidth problem that demands levittation and stacking to surmount two large overhangs. It's first pitch is perfect fingers(to help you warm up), Excellent!
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burger
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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That picture makes me want to puke!.... Looks like fun in a demented sort of way though.
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burger
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Anyone been up that offwidth/chimney horror fest on Calaveras Dome? Looks completely nuts, or are the pictures just decieving?
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clustiere
Big Wall climber
prescott az
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If you live in So Cal try 11 double d, and the wave (both close to eachother). These are in the Lake Arrowhead pinnicles (prime in winter and early spring). Refer to the new guide book to the San Bernadino Mountains, Hidden Treasures by Brad Singer.
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clustiere
Trad climber
running springs, ca
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You should see Ken Kennega!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Blowboarder
Boulder climber
Sandpoint, Idaho
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FISH SAID
"Chingando
Doggy Do
Orange Juice Ave.
Moby Dick
Vendetta
Generator Crack
Reeds Left"
Howz about 1096?
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Got any more pics in that sequence? I wanna see the next two moves.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Bishop is DEAD, long live JT
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2005 - 12:04pm PT
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how about 1096?
That one ain't exactly for neophytes to be practicing on.
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Blowboarder
Boulder climber
Sandpoint, Idaho
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No, but he said he wanted to try 9's & 10's. It's rated 10d, correct.
All I know is that it's kicked my ass twice (not that I'm rad at fat cracks or anything), I only wanted to do it because the guy that taught me how to climb did the FA (not sure when but it was pre-cam and there's a photo of it in Vertical World of Yosemite and he's all the way at the top of the squeeze section with his last hex like 40 feet below in the last constriction).
At 55, he's still much harder than I.
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Blowboarder
Boulder climber
Sandpoint, Idaho
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Yeah, it Phil. The story he tells about the whipper he took onto that hex a couple tries before he sent it chilled my blood when I first laid eyes on the beast.
He's still putting up first ascents, albeit in Eastern Washington now.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Yo Russ, you can´t just post some posed shot of you (I know for a fact that your feet are on the deck on that phony baloney pic) without attending copy to really flesh out the lie. So get your hide back in the saddle and type us up a whopper.
BTW, I´m flying back home (in Venezuela presently) tomorrow and was thinking about dropping by your crib as promised and then perhaps a visit to our boy James kicking it in the hospital after you wire the mountain unicycle I´ll be bringing out for your enjoyment. After ten minutes on said uni bones will be showing and I´ll just lay you in the bed next to James.
LARGO
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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PS--First ascent of 1096 (which is police code for maniac on the loose)was made by Mark Klemons, Bridwell and myself and we rated it 5.11 at the time. I think that 5.10D rating is one of the great sandbags in the Valley. I was just a kid back then but I could barely do it on a top rope. I had an easier time on Hangdog Flyer, which is just next door.
JL
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Blowboarder
Boulder climber
Sandpoint, Idaho
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**PS--First ascent of 1096 (which is police code for maniac on the loose)was made by Mark Klemons, Bridwell and myself and we rated it 5.11 at the time. I think that 5.10D rating is one of the great sandbags in the Valley. I was just a kid back then but I could barely do it on a top rope. I had an easier time on Hangdog Flyer, which is just next door.
JL**
Sorry Largo, must have gotten confused there. Maybe the whipper came on a FA attempt and I misunderstood. You were there, I wasn't, so I'm sure you're correct. Do you remember when that was? I'll have to call Phil and get my story straight.
Still a proud line and as for the grade, yeah, I found it somewhat more difficult than say, Serenity Crack.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Yeah, Phil Gleason (who was one of my first partners in Yosemite, and who´s brother basically taught the Stonemasters how to climb), during the first attempt on the route, actually climbed all but the very last body length and shot out for a supposedly epic whistler. He basically had it.
JL
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Blowboarder
Boulder climber
Sandpoint, Idaho
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Largo, I've heard some great stories of the Valley and all your escapades back in the day from the Gleason brothers. Your rendition jibes with what I heard, I just thought he had come back and sent it shortly after. You guys must have gotten it done first.
I learned more about climbing and life from Phil and Paul than anyone else but don't hold that against them.
If I remember correctly, Paul sought out John Gill and then passed the knowledge learned to the Stonemasters?
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WBraun
climber
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And now there's, John Gleason, chip off the old mans block. John was on Sar last summer doing a $hitload of climbing. The other brother Phil was on Sar the year before. Great family "Hawkman"
Werner
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Blowboarder
Boulder climber
Sandpoint, Idaho
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Werner, the other brother would be Dan and they are as you said, a great family. Jon also is a survivor of the recent tsunami on tonsai and had some pretty incredible tales to tell.
Hawkman, I forgot about that one. Did it come about from all the airtime on the 1096 whipper?
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Bishop is DEAD, long live JT
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2005 - 01:37pm PT
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I just like posting to two year old threads Swellymon....
Largo, see ya out here...
As for the climb, it is called Marlin Fishing In Baja (after Hemmingway) and this is on the FA. Your basic 11+ off hands, overhanging of course, to a fearsome bulge that gets wide and goes at about 13a or so, depending on hand size. Then it eases after the lip enocounter to a moderate 12b for 60 more feet. Casual. Yabo did the second.
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WBraun
climber
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Blowboarder
Opps... your right, Alzheimer’s settin here.
And Russ watch that uni Largos bringin you.
You guys are great!
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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"If I remember correctly, Paul sought out John Gill and then passed the knowledge learned to the Stonemasters?"
That´s pretty much how it played out. Paul could really and truly pull down back then. It took us years to catch up with him. If you ever see Phil again, ask him about Phil Haney. That guy could have been the best climber in the world. An unbelievable talent, once in a generation.
Russ, AKA Olde Russ, The Fish, Mussey, Dr. Malt, and various other monikers, claims that he mastered the unicycle when only a pup, back in Cornwall, and that soon as I show up at his crib with a new age mountain unicycle, he will proceed to peddle it up, and down, Saddle Rock. I´m calling this claim what it is: a bold and shamless embroidering of the plain truth.
But I fully intend to give Russ a chance to prove me wrong . . .
JL
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Blowboarder
Boulder climber
Sandpoint, Idaho
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That´s pretty much how it played out. Paul could really and truly pull down back then. It took us years to catch up with him. If you ever see Phil again, ask him about Phil Haney. That guy could have been the best climber in the world. An unbelievable talent, once in a generation.
Phil said the same thing about Haney, just an unreal talent for climbing rock. Can't remember why he didn't go down in lore like the rest of you, methinks something tragic.
I see Phil all the time, I live in Idaho now but we own the best rock climbing area you've never heard of over in NCW together. Well, we bought it, it's owned by those who enjoy it.
And it's only the best area you've never heard of if you're into good trad routes and hard bouldering since there's not a bolt in the place and hopefully never will. Keeps the crowds away, you see.
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Roger Breedlove
Trad climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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So John, are you going to record Russ' effort on video for us all to see?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Funny to be reading about 10.96 right now and just last night read Bridwell's account of it in his out-of-print book, though he doesn't name the climb I recognized it immediately...
... the gremlins are ranging wider.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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"That evening at camp a friend, Phil Gleason, stopped by and suggested that I have a try at a new route he'd been working on. Fed up with it himself, he offered me the route. As we talked, I could see the keen interest in John's eyes, so suggested that he might come along with Mark Klemens, my usual partner, and me - if he wanted. Without hesitation he grabbed at the chance.
The next morning I was awakened by the drumming of John's pacing feet outside my tent. We threw some gear into a pack and walked to the coffee shop. We were too lazy to make something for ourselves, it was free because the waitress lusted for me as I did for her. After breakfast John still looked confused about the payment of the bill as we rode the shuttle bus toward the climb. The bus took us to the Ahwahnee Hotel, only a short walk from the route. Within a few minutes we stood at the base. As foretold, the flake arched above, leaning and overhanging. We drew stones and Klemens won the lead.
Mark's skills in flaring, overhanging offwidths were beyond reproach and John watched with awe at each precise movement. The flake leaned increasingly until the last eight feet, where it shot out horizontally. A young John Long sat next to me, totally confused as to a solution to this final bit. I'd analyzing the problem since our arrival and had come up with the answer but merely said to John, "You'll see." Klemens showed incredible control while working hard to place protection. John fidgeted nervously. Mark tried again and again to get something in before the crux. A bong would be his preference as he disdained the new fangled nuts, as yet in their evolutionary infancy. He reached to the rack, selected a large I-beam-shaped contraption and announced with typical Klemens' cynicism, "You know I'm desperate now." After using considerable energy fiddling with it, to no avail, he threw it to the ground, cursing. Nearly spent, Mark finally managed to secure a bong, but without the strength to carry on, he lowered to the deck.
My turn. Mark had set it up for me, having done all the hard work of placing the protection. All I had to do was climb and clip. I climbed up to the high point at the crux. John made the mistake of looking away as I slipped quickly through the tricky sequence. I'd gotten to reasonable fist jams, swung down, reached out and pinched the edge of the flake, pulled into a lieback and was resting before the boy from So. Cal. looked up again.
John was outspoken, to say the least but only because he could usually back up his words with action. He started using the pure brute strength of his powerful arms, his feet flailing for purchase. Through the echo chamber of the flake, I could hear his locomotive breathing, amplified. Once again he was desperate, but his great heart and the desire of his ego kept him afloat. He'd thrashed and struggled to the crux, but now hadn't a clue. His life signs ebbed as I shouted down instructions which he followed to the letter. A hand flashed to the finned edge of the flake and his head and torso popped into view, gasping for air. A few power pulls and he'd done it.
"Good job, man!"
John would affectionately become known as Largo to his friends, and he would share many great adventures - the Nose in a day, the crossing of Borneo and others - but I'll never forget those first two days.
There were others I met when they first came, Ron Kauk, Werner Braun, Lynn Hill, Maria Cranor and many more. They were children when I first knew them."
Jim Bridwell, "Climbing Adventures, A Climber's Passion." pp. 206-208
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 12, 2008 - 01:36am PT
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bump
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Nov 12, 2008 - 01:43am PT
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Back not that long after the turn of the century, Russ sent me a link to this thread, (gee, I wonder where he got the title from...) and for better or worse, I found supertaco.
-I climbed 1096 with Cilley in spring of '79. I climbed that Marlin climb with him too, a few years later.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Nov 12, 2008 - 02:16am PT
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Gosh, you guys are kickin' up some great old threads today/night! Thanks ! Gotta catch some winks now, but will continue reads manana. Again, thanks. Lynne
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nutjob
Stoked OW climber
San Jose, CA
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Nov 12, 2008 - 07:53pm PT
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Ed, thanks for the labor of love pouring through the old lore and dusting off the gems for us. And thanks for those who made the gems in the first place!
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Nov 12, 2008 - 09:30pm PT
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1096 was the first flare I ever climbed and to say I barely made it is an understement. Fond memories, so long ago . . .
JL
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Nov 12, 2008 - 09:37pm PT
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I knew it was too good to be true... Saw the name.... Thought he was back...
He ain't!
stop bumping ancient Walling threads... messes with the head!!!
That ain't right!
Post Perusal Edit:... Uhm... Unless you're Largo!!! Ooops!!
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Nov 12, 2008 - 10:31pm PT
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Can't believe I didn't find the Taco til 2008. Crack climbing is next on the list to learn. Hope I don't get eaten like Jilly on the Generator in Yo.
Jingy, stop reading old threads and get out to the events dude. Can't believe you missed the 50th Nose Re. The stories that were told were obscure, sometimes hysterical, poignant and I should have brought the recorder. Learned my lesson.
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Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
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Nov 12, 2008 - 10:38pm PT
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I've avoided reading these "wide" posts for too long. I have now seen the light, and understand the "metaphysical" significance of partaking in the "wide". Take me to the promised land Russ and Jaybro !!!!!
Cracko
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Dec 22, 2011 - 12:35am PT
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Where the taco started for me, style bumparoony!
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Dec 22, 2011 - 12:34pm PT
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I can't see the picture in the first post. Is it that heinous stack
at a roof with chalk flyin through the air?
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Dec 22, 2011 - 10:22pm PT
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Thanks, I guess my memory was playing tricks about the chalk flyin thru
the air.
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Dec 22, 2011 - 10:26pm PT
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Hey, I couldn't find anything about this climb over at Wide Fetish.
Is it a climb I should see?
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 26, 2011 - 11:18pm PT
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It is a boulder problem out by the Saturn Boulder....
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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back from a Valley day-trip yesterday, we made a point of getting on Generator Crack, Gary, Bela and I, first time for Bela I think...
I thought I hadn't done it in a long time, and I was right, last time, according to my log, was June 14, 2009... I have been recovering from a back problem which my non-OW climbing friends all attribute to OW climbing, to the derisive denials of my OW climbing friends...
...I had a sort of epiphany lately, about the role of Generator Crack and Valley OW climbing... the old dudes all say get on it and be able to climb it with ease, left-side in, right-side in, straight in, any and all ways.
Now the neophyte following this advise blindly might think it prepares them for all the Valley OW, and they would be very wrong, and find it out quickly, as the specifics of Generator Crack are very different from the other 5.10 OW cracks.
However, if they have truly followed the program, and this is where the epiphany comes from, they would have become conditioned, physically, in a way that helps on most of the 5.10 and 5.11 Valley OW problems.
I came to this contemplating how to train for OW at home... and realized that all the exercises I thought up pointed back to getting up Generator Crack. I'll probably do many of these exercises at home, but getting on Generator Crack as much as possible will greatly accelerate the OW conditioning.
As for technique, there are a lot of suggestions scattered throughout this forum over the years, and probably all of it is good, and all of it should be done. As with anything, start with what works for you, and when you get that down, expand out and explore the other techniques. You're doing your body good by taking it easy at first and upping the intensity as you become proficient.
Like your mother insisted: "practice, practice, practice" thanks Mom, how come you're always right?
[oh, it went well, from the block at the bottom, put a hand stack high, right foot on the outside of the crack, and "calf/foot locked" the left high, released the stacks and went higher, lifted the right foot higher, reset the "calf/foot lock" on the left higher... repeated to the left knee lock and changed to a right leg heal-toe... keep going until running out of gas but that was pretty high. Flayed a bit when it got wider, but Gary reminded me to use foot-stacks, which were the ticket around the flake and up to the top... at least for me on that day... looks like I will be doing left-side in until everything gets strong enough to switch... that was me yesterday, I will probably be different in the future]
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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" get in generator crack, do it right side in. do it left side in. down climb it. solo, night and day, till your 'get' it!"
Sez this guy, day before yesterday
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Trad is Rad
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo California
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i think we should have a wide thread on the main page at all times
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Mimi
climber
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For those who haven't read the start of this thread regarding taping policy.
>By the way Russ, what in gods name is that white stuff on the fingers? Looks like AID to me! >
Yep.... tape is aid, if:
You are taping for size.
You are taping to protect UNDAMAGED skin.
You are taping for a better grip.
Tape is not aid, if:
You are taping your pant leg down.
You are taping a detached tendon.
You are taping anything that a doctor would call an evulsion.
You are taping a head wound.
You are hiding a protruding bone from your squeamish partner.
Russ
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 15, 2015 - 05:34pm PT
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Stylee bump....
Ymmv 💩
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Feb 15, 2015 - 05:54pm PT
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 15, 2015 - 06:11pm PT
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Laying down hell, Grug can climb the Wyde in his sleep!
And I don't think its the tape......
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Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
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Feb 15, 2015 - 06:24pm PT
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That does look like some hard core lying down! How would you rate that mattress?
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Feb 15, 2015 - 06:29pm PT
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dude look at the direction the rope and gear are hanging
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okie
Trad climber
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Feb 15, 2015 - 06:59pm PT
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Looks like a corpse wedged in a crevice. Poor stiff has a lot of good booty on his gear sling though...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 15, 2015 - 07:01pm PT
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That thing is a roof! It's a climb called Bell crack, now rated 5.11b. Back in '79, when there was less of a consensus, it was rated, 5.10. One of my first "5.10" leads💩!
Here it is w/o Crug
In the back there, on the left...
Unfortunately for Grug it rained, "Like a tall cow pissing on a flat rock," ( reference, anyone?) thwarting His efforts.
So don't be dissing Grug!
But be radiant, like Aya!
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Feb 15, 2015 - 07:17pm PT
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Feb 17, 2015 - 04:54pm PT
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That mattress looks really hard. Lumpy, too. I think that guy must be pretty tough.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Feb 19, 2017 - 07:00pm PT
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not ready to let this drop off the front page bump
good memories of good times...
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 19, 2017 - 07:15pm PT
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briham89
Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
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Feb 19, 2017 - 07:40pm PT
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Sonora Pass wide!
This angle makes this look easy. In reality it's an awful flare (flared out and down) that wants to spit you out the whole time.
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 19, 2017 - 07:42pm PT
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Looks piss easy ...... :-)
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Feb 20, 2017 - 08:15am PT
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Love that 1096!
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Feb 20, 2017 - 08:25am PT
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Bump -missing Weege. Always loved this shot of him:
@ Russ- that video is hilarious.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Feb 20, 2017 - 09:29am PT
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Sheesh cowboy, you need some chaps!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Feb 20, 2017 - 09:30am PT
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Looks like somebody stayed at the Bedbug Motel!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 20, 2017 - 09:35am PT
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First ascent of the octopus?
The Horta?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Feb 20, 2017 - 10:19am PT
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People used to wear hair shirts ...
guilty... but I think it is the roll of the genetic dice...
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Feb 20, 2017 - 10:29am PT
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You mean like this?
Edit: Hair bib?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Feb 20, 2017 - 10:33am PT
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hmmm... related allele?
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Feb 20, 2017 - 10:46am PT
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You somehow got the hair AND the brains!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Feb 20, 2017 - 10:54am PT
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Lets pretend that we never saw that!
In hopes of redemption
And to return to the original topic
The Climb "beak Crack" as it is known by some,
is on a privately owned cliff in Byram, Nj,
It is visible from Rt206 , about ten miles past Waterloo Rd.
(Where the area now Called Allamuchy is located.)
It is most interesting because there is a line of rusting 1/4 inch bolts on roughly made home-made hangers that are placed straight up into the horizontal roof arms reach from the crack.
The hangers were stamped with a 'T''K' -I've tried to Find Tye Kneff
as I'm almost sure they are his and/( or Jim Kalakotronis's,?) handy work, from before 1975(?)
That thing is hard & wide.
I am young!
Those were the days !
I am seen stuffing everything I can in, elbows deep - legs flailing,
trying to get a foot under me to push up.
There's 20 more feet of climbing still to come.
I'm up to my elbows trying, . . working on the 5/6 inch tube chock
(that may still be there?),
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 20, 2017 - 11:10am PT
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Does make you feel a bit girly...
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 20, 2017 - 01:00pm PT
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Feb 20, 2017 - 01:18pm PT
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Feb 20, 2017 - 01:21pm PT
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Awsome! the rare upper portion shot
But your hairy-ness,
That Hairshirt is more aid than tape ! (Heheyhe)
Is that display taken at the Black Canyon ? ( Gunnison Colorado)
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2017 - 03:11pm PT
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Ashley Craycroft on Life Without Parole (from her WideFetish gallery)
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Feb 20, 2017 - 04:10pm PT
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I always liked this one of Lucille.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 20, 2017 - 04:58pm PT
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Wow, I didn't remember this one. I can identify, for years!
Stealing it!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Feb 20, 2017 - 05:17pm PT
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To tell you the truth, I figured it was probably you who took it (I'm 98 percent it wasn't me). It was the day before my attempt. Note the different shirt color. This was at the top of Best of the Blues.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 21, 2017 - 07:14pm PT
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It must have been Mike?
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Feb 21, 2017 - 07:30pm PT
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[Click to View YouTube Video]
Bella's Tower, "5.9+" p1 goes from #1,2,3,4 to 5s and 6s and wider. crux is the 6s.
FA 4/20/11(?) SP and TBC
FFA 4/21/13 TBC and SP. chimney is no-helmet suck-in-the-gut territoire
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Feb 22, 2017 - 03:30am PT
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one of the few pictures of me
This is in New Jersey
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 22, 2017 - 05:06am PT
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Hair shirt?
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Feb 22, 2017 - 02:03pm PT
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That 1096 photo of Russ's is now my computer's background image. What a great photo! (Sorry Jaybro, I had considered your hair shirt, but you know, didn't want to scare anybody!)
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2017 - 03:16pm PT
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Here is the story behind that pic:
I'm in the Valley on July 4th weekend... super hot... I decide it would be a good day to go do 1096 and Bad Ass Momma (bad idea). Will is the bear patrol guy that summer in Camp 4 and he is in todays crew... Will says there is this guy who wants to go to... The YSL (Young Strong Local). Cool... we go.
On the way I'm sorta sandbagging him a bit with how it ain't too bad, and should be no problem, etc... So we get to the base and he is getting ready to go and I ask, "So can you really climb...? I mean this is sorta serious..." I didn't want this to go too far and get the kid hurt or something.
He says something like "yeah, I can climb... I'll give it a go". He gives it a good effort and finishes it off after getting spit out once.
After this we go to BAM and get the full sauna hosing and can't do the damn thing!! (I'll post the link to the TR and vid for that event!)
Now, fast forward a bunch of years... The YSL is/was Mason Earle and is one hell of a good climber... like really big numbers good!
TR: http://www.supertopo.com/tr/TR-Heatwave-Baby-the-Valley-July-07/t273n.html
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Feb 22, 2017 - 05:35pm PT
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I fist-jammed and arm-barred BAM. Nobody had taught me stacking yet.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 22, 2017 - 06:12pm PT
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I think that was the first route I ever stacked on;'79/80.
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Dan McDevitt
Trad climber
yosemite
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Feb 22, 2017 - 09:30pm PT
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I also learned how to stack there! Was there with mussy and swilliam.
Russ ran up the thing in less than a minute, super smooth. very impressive to witness
Walter i dig your last shot! generator crack up close and personal
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Feb 23, 2017 - 08:30am PT
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I saw Russ float BAM in cowboy boots that had 5.10 stealth rubber on them. It took about 3 minutes.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Feb 23, 2017 - 11:14am PT
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I'd love to go back to BAM and try it with stacks. It does seem to me a near-perfect size for stacking. Without stacking, I thought it was pretty darn hard. I had to use the super-wide fist jam that hurts the outside of your thumb.
There's a relatively famous offwidth at 12,000 feet in Colorado called Road Warrior that I probably did 3 or 4 times before ever stacking. I remember when I first did it with stacking it took about 1/3 the time. It was just bam, bam, bam. A perfect size for stacking.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 24, 2017 - 07:06pm PT
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Headstack ( 2 pitches 5.12 ow, so far) style bump
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Feb 24, 2017 - 07:09pm PT
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superstoke on those last two-7 photos! Puro, qu e si!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 26, 2017 - 04:50am PT
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 26, 2017 - 08:25am PT
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Sorry, but someone had to follow ^.
Start (note the smile) of the 200' OW on E Face of Lexington in Washington Pass. It's not particularly difficult and has lots of rests, but it gains you a ton of elevation.
Then at the end of the pitch.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Feb 26, 2017 - 02:02pm PT
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Great action shot of Pamela!
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Dan McDevitt
Trad climber
yosemite
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Feb 26, 2017 - 03:32pm PT
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Bela with proud onsight p.1 English breakfast. arch rock
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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Feb 26, 2017 - 03:35pm PT
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That shot of English Breakfast Crack is sweet. That climb up Washington Pass way looks cool, too.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Feb 26, 2017 - 06:05pm PT
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E.B.C, awesome route but soft wide.
Hi Walter!
Missing you Dan. Oh, and you too Walter.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Feb 26, 2017 - 06:13pm PT
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true, Rasputin is inside of Generator crack!
I am talking about Walleye's photo with Dan on previous page
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 27, 2017 - 10:02am PT
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Monkey see...
Monkey do
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Feb 27, 2017 - 11:13am PT
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Bela sighting! ON EBC!! SIK!!!!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 27, 2017 - 04:37pm PT
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Bela, flat Rocks!
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BL
Trad climber
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Feb 27, 2017 - 04:56pm PT
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Shirtless!? Proud.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Feb 27, 2017 - 05:05pm PT
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Damn, Walleye! I was just looking at that photo and saying to myself, Maw! "Gaping" is a nice touch.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 28, 2017 - 07:42am PT
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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"climb/find your own dawn wall"?
Find/climb your own Century Crack!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 13, 2017 - 03:18pm PT
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Grug, onsighting The Dragon's Lair, 5.11. Today
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Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
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Mar 13, 2017 - 03:22pm PT
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Nice work Grug and Jaybro. Lose a little shoe leather?
-S
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Friend
climber
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Mar 13, 2017 - 03:44pm PT
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Nice one Grug!
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Mar 13, 2017 - 03:53pm PT
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Grug you and ol Jaybro inspire me. You guys play so HARD! Way to keep the stoke alive. Here we are out East of Fresno on Friday morning getting a little wide action on some secret boulders.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 13, 2017 - 03:55pm PT
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Good job Grug! Jaybro, I'll be out there on Thursday.....setting up seasonal camp. Rab Carrington and Mark Chapman are coming out for the first week of April.
If you're climbing long alpine rock routes you almost always have to go wide at some point.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Mar 14, 2017 - 07:02am PT
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Whitemeat's last post from November, '16.
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dickcilley
Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
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Mar 14, 2017 - 09:25am PT
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Nice Rack Grug
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Mar 15, 2017 - 07:09am PT
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Thanks Dick, it was largely borrowed. It's the main reason for the grimace. During the climb, I was also mostly grimacing -- mainly because of sore toes and knees. It's so fun to have Jaybro show you these things (not to mention running back to the car to get a couple more #6s and letting me use his Valley Giant).
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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minipony gangbang 5.8 FA today. thanks to all the custom wide cam crafters out there in the world!
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Digging the green lichen out of your shirt is nice, but putting up a splitter first ascent, classic!
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Nov 10, 2017 - 01:26pm PT
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so there's this little dirt road junction with a couple of cuuuuute old wood cabins and a nice crick on the drive in to the parking for this area....and there is a small corral right by the road.
One frosty morning early, as my pard and I drove in, we were contemplating just how weird we find "horse people" to be. see HBO real sex about people's horse bridle/leatherwear fetishes. she was telling me about how she'd heard from a couple different folks about the potential and actual female orgasms readily achievable in the saddle....you know, the stiff pommel end and all.
we rounded the corner, passed the cabins. a cowperson stood some distance back from the corral, just observing the activity inside the fence. the big tall white stallion stood in its usual spot. it had a big old turgid horseboner. AND THE MINIPONY WAS LICKING IT! I guess errybody needs salt, but....that's how the route name came about.
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Nov 12, 2017 - 11:38am PT
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that's a donkey, not a pony
Nice rte tho💪
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Nov 12, 2017 - 12:07pm PT
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yeah, minidunkey just don't have that ring to it.
for the year or so we been 'splorin' here, we had stared at what we came to call the Diagonal, the wide summit block splitter apparent from miles away through the Ponderosa. probably four or five times we schlepped in all the wide gear, hauled it up a couple pitches to the big flat belay ledge. four or five times we walked away, snail-eyed into excuse-making. to finish, finally, and at such a moderate difficulty, is very satisfying.
i dig it that you dig it BlueBlocr
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Nov 16, 2017 - 09:27pm PT
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self abuse bump
🥊🎭😖🤞🏼
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Nov 16, 2017 - 09:38pm PT
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somebody built and carried the fire first: thanks for sharing the stoke DMT
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Nov 17, 2017 - 06:56am PT
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Brave cowboy, My apologies again.
( I'll leave this 'cause it makes me laugh)
so much rock and so much that looks similar (but,yeah, No - I see I'm way off)
and thnxs for the massive contributions that you make.
Wait a minnute??? its a Jeffa pic?
Is This The Same Rock ?
I was sure it was , & sure id seen it, just had to search then it hit me it was in the Dogs thread I was absolutely drawn to that formation! it is a stellar standing pinnacle, with a come hither sort of look
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 17, 2017 - 10:44am PT
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Nov 17, 2017 - 01:12pm PT
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dang Donini, bringing the creme de la, once again.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nov 17, 2017 - 07:55pm PT
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Someday kids?
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bob
climber
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Nov 17, 2017 - 09:01pm PT
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“Long Live The Chief” on Lower Cathedral Spire in Yosemite. Starts at the base of the Northwest face and finishes up following left side overhanging gapers.
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Nov 17, 2017 - 09:48pm PT
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dang Bob, what a feature!
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 27, 2017 - 08:33pm PT
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love that ^ one bravecowboy. Soloing?
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Dec 11, 2017 - 12:12pm PT
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nope, that's my buddy cleaning the pitch. soooo good. I love the Vedauwoo "unknown" route thing more than just about anywhere else that I know!
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