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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 30, 2011 - 03:17pm PT
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I finally got on a Gabel route. Been looking at the pitch above Lunatics Fringe for a long time. Then Eric continued the route to the top and I became more enticed.
Last weekend we decided to check it out. We got a late start so only did 3 pitches above the Fringe. We loved every pitch we climbed. The pitch above the Fringe was stout for me. No hangs but it was close. At the crux you make a big move to a nice incut flake that flexes, yikes. Higher you can go right or left. The left way follows a few incut knobs to a stellar, though dirty, finger to hand crack that brings you to the anchor with a nice comfy seat and a stellar position.
From the anchor on pitch two, you move left ten feet or so, step down and around the corner to a nice hand crack in a corner. Follow the corner a ways past a hummock section, more hands, then to a ledge that leads to yet more hands in another corner and ending at a bolted belay - again with a great position.
From here, the character of the route changes. Instead of beautiful cracks you are now following large, although spaced, knobs. The moves between these large knobs tended to involve thin friction and big reaches to nice incut holds. Unfortunately due to the lack of traffic on the route every single hold was covered with an inch or more of dirt. I enjoyed this pitch the most, particularly the section Eric has rated 10c on his topo, thin moves with the reward of ultra positive jugorama.
Thanks Eric and friends. Looking forward to doing the rest of the pitches. This route comes with high recommendation.
Jeff
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jan 30, 2011 - 06:06pm PT
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Anybody who adds footage to such a fine climb deserves cheers!
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2011 - 06:08pm PT
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Hey Clint,
Great to see you guys out getting after it yesterday.
Would love to hear about what all you got done.
We made it up the corner but stopped at the headwall. Corner was harder than it looked. Got thoroughly worked.
Jeff
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Pass the Chongo, Chongo
Social climber
in cave
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Jan 30, 2011 - 06:43pm PT
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HEY THERE SAY... GOOD TOPO CLINT! THANK YOU!
LOVE
cHoNgO$$
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jan 30, 2011 - 06:53pm PT
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Just checked out the topo. Definetly on my to do list next trip to the Valley.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Jan 30, 2011 - 07:08pm PT
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Haven't done a Gabel valley route, but I did A Boy And His Arete at the Leap last summer. Funky yet quality, very fun!
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ec
climber
ca
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Jan 30, 2011 - 07:08pm PT
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Grasshopper has come a long way...
I remember the first day he tried climbing at one of our rock courses; yarding with his arms, feet flailing. He eventually settled down and started using his feet.
Not many I known have the pure love of just climbing and having an adventure like Eric.
He really put in a full effort when we started the FA of Crossbones at The Needles, but wrenched his ankle in the process higher up on the route. We had to bail. Lower down, the arete pitch was his; not really that difficult, but wickedly run out, so run out, we placed an extra bolt lower on it after the fact so others may not hit the ledge some 60 feet below, only from 30 now...
Great guy with tons of stone logged in now.
 ec
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 30, 2011 - 07:27pm PT
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adventuresome
bold
generous
fun
very glad to call him friend
looking forward to many more years of adventure with him and because of him
cheers!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 30, 2011 - 07:36pm PT
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Jeff,
> Would love to hear about what all you got done.
Mostly a lot of scrambling and PO dodging (by daylight and by headlamp),
then Bob placed 3 bolts (on lead of course) to start a new route on the slab.
The 5.7 crack he had climbed last time was running with water - hmmm, no wonder it was so "water polished"? :-)
> We made it up the corner but stopped at the headwall. Corner was harder than it looked. Got thoroughly worked.
It looked hard to me! Did you wish you had brought kneepads? :-)
More ablegabel links:
ablegabel in Rock&Ice:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=848815
happy birthday abelgabel:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=491624
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Jan 30, 2011 - 07:37pm PT
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Eric is a awesome. E.C., not everyone is as badass as you}}
Just don't flaunt it, it's bad form, dude.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2011 - 08:03pm PT
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Clint,
It looked hard to me! Did you wish you had brought kneepads?
Knees are not too bad but the arms are a bit sore from all the chickenwinging on lichen as are the palms of my hands from palming.
Good timing with the weather, have a day or two to heal.
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ec
climber
ca
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Jan 30, 2011 - 08:40pm PT
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bluering,
I really don't understand what you are saying, man. I was talking about Eric and his rise to excellence. At least I know his history and it is a good one.
ec
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 30, 2011 - 08:42pm PT
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It's the Grinch™ hat that does it....
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Dublin,Ca.
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Jan 31, 2011 - 01:28pm PT
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WOW!!! Thanks for the internet love. Glad you enjoyed the route Jeff. Looking forward to getting on one of yours soon.- ec, it's been way too long since I've seen you. Thanks for setting me on the right path all those years ago.- Ed, always happy to be sharing a rope with you.-Clint, thanks for you and Dan breaking through on Beyond The Fringe, I might not have gone higher if you hadn't figured out that section. Looking forward to working with you on upcoming projects. -Bluering, Eddie Joe was my original climbing mentor, but thanks for getting my back.- Caughtinside, that kicks ass that you did A Boy And His Arete. I love that climb. - Donini, hope you get on Beyond Lunacy, it's fun and well protected. Special thanks to Linda and Keven who tirelessly helped to put up that route. Couldn't have done it with out them. By the way, I don't know of any body who has done the last pitch yet. Every body has ran out of time thus far - Eric Gabel
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Jan 31, 2011 - 01:51pm PT
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e.c., sorry. I misinterpreted something. Sorry!
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Jobee
Social climber
El Portal Ca.
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Jan 31, 2011 - 01:55pm PT
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Eric,
I have something for you, it was meant for one of your birthdays a few years ago!
Always love to see you, you are one of my hero's, and you have the heart of a lion.
Tipping my mug of tea your way right now!
xxxooojobee
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Captain...or Skully
climber
leading the away team, but not in a red shirt!
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Jan 31, 2011 - 02:01pm PT
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Big props to the AbleGabel.
Yes, I am a fan.
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J. Werlin
Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
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Jan 31, 2011 - 04:46pm PT
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Cheers for pushing into uncharted waters.
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