we checked out beyond lunacy on saturday (up to the last pitch, anyway, which was running with water). it was super bitchin! thanks to eric, linda et al for such a nice, well-equipped route. highly recommended. bring some thin stuff for the "beyond the fringe" pitch off the top of lunatic.
Major bumpage deserved for Eric. All the places I have looked around the valley and dreamed of "some day" climbing or even just getting up to explore, all those blank stretches of the valley that don't appear to exist in the Meyers/Reid guide, he has already been there and FA'd a bunch of stuff. And tons more places I don't know about. I guess when you head as far into the uncharted sections of the valley as he does, his horizon of what obscurity means rises to a level beyond normal mortal's comprehension.
And he's a super-nice guy with no spray, generous with info, but he leaves just enough unsaid to give plenty of space for like minded souls to get in over their heads and find the adventure they're looking for.
I raise my glass in an internet toast to Mr Gable.
Who plucks out new pitches like this one from Angry Natives, right in front of the rendezvous parking lot used by most climbers in a popular crag, in this day and age? A renaissance man.
If I quit my job and spent a year climbing, I could probably fill it up gleefully by doing only his routes. And there would be plenty I don't have the sack or skills to get up. So many dreams fueled by perusing his topos.