Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2011 - 11:53am PT
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Eis Bump!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2011 - 03:37pm PT
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Third bump's the charm!
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go-B
climber
Revelation 7:12
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Thx SG,
Ice is Nice, and the Alp's will suffice!
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pocoloco1
Social climber
The Chihuahua Desert
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Steve, you always post up great stuff. Thanks
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Man, that Armand Charlet came straight from central casting n'est-ce pas?
I remember getting waay stoked by that article. Went out and bought me un beret.
Or was that a balaklava?
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F10
Trad climber
e350 / Bishop
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Great post,
The cover photo on Mountain 27 was always on of my favorites, looked super cool and made a lasting impression
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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wonder how many of those routes now have seen decents?!!I bet quite a few! Cheers murry!
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Bruce Kay
Gym climber
BC
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wonder how many of those routes now have seen decents?!!
yeah thats what i was wondering. quite a few no doubt. I recall seeing some magazine article of some wild jibber snowboarding the Bonnati Zappelli on the Grand pilier d'angle
But having said that, just next door, the cecchenel / nomine is often voted by many modern climbers as one of the coolest and most engaging mixed / ice routes they've ever done. I've never done it myself but its on my "do before I die" list.
those guys were cranking some sick sh#t with some gear that you could hardly hang a hat on. the majority of the truly mixed routes that the masters like welzenbach were churning out in the 20's and 30's will rarely if ever see complete descents except in the rarest and most forgiving conditions.
In the first half of the century, the euro's were out there like astronauts on the big mixed walls of the alps, all with a few twisted scraps of steel, dressed in rags and sporting some spectacularly oversized huevo's .
Thanks for the post SG. there's nothing quite like getting a glimpse at those old alpine mixed routes to really capture the essence of bold alpinism.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2011 - 09:02pm PT
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This was definitely the stuff of dreams growing up in my little desert town!
You look at the whole array of possibilities and guys like Willo Welzenbach really shine with respect to their eye for a classical line and ability to get it done very early on.
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QITNL
climber
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Jan 10, 2011 - 10:04pm PT
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Great stuff. Thanks!
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Jan 11, 2011 - 09:39am PT
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2011 - 09:48am PT
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Nice Ice, Boss!
How was that one?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2011 - 10:09am PT
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The spur that keeps on spurring! LOL
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Jan 12, 2011 - 05:44pm PT
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Hey Steve,
The Monch was so cool. We climbed it in Mid September and were the only ones at the Gugi hut and on route.The Ice boss was great three low angle ice pitchs and two steeper pitchs then a 1800' 40 degree ice slope above.The most dangerous part was Helga at the hut on the back side.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2011 - 05:59pm PT
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Thanks Scott!
Nice spot for a hut!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2011 - 12:01pm PT
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So just what did Hellga try to do to you gents?!?
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