Ice-Climbing In The Alps Historical Survey Mountain #27 1973

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Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 31, 2010 - 08:37pm PT
For a superb overview of the history of ice and mixed climbing in the Alps you need look no further than Mountain #27 May 1973. My thoughts are on ice...


On Les Droites. Heli Wagner photo.































Much more to follow from this superb edition of Mountain!

Happy New Year and Ice, Fat As You Like!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2011 - 11:53am PT
Eis Bump!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2011 - 03:37pm PT
Third bump's the charm!
go-B

climber
Revelation 7:12
Jan 8, 2011 - 06:01pm PT
Thx SG,
Ice is Nice, and the Alp's will suffice!
pocoloco1

Social climber
The Chihuahua Desert
Jan 8, 2011 - 06:03pm PT
Steve, you always post up great stuff. Thanks
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jan 8, 2011 - 06:10pm PT
Man, that Armand Charlet came straight from central casting n'est-ce pas?
I remember getting waay stoked by that article. Went out and bought me un beret.





Or was that a balaklava?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2011 - 08:00pm PT
A Charlet piece from Mountain 50. Tres jaunte!



F10

Trad climber
e350 / Bishop
Jan 8, 2011 - 08:05pm PT
Great post,

The cover photo on Mountain 27 was always on of my favorites, looked super cool and made a lasting impression

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2011 - 06:31pm PT
And now the eye candy! A stunning pictorial of the cradle of Gran Alpinisme!



























Now this is an inspiring magazine! Still more to come!
east side underground

Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
Jan 9, 2011 - 06:56pm PT
wonder how many of those routes now have seen decents?!!I bet quite a few! Cheers murry!
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 9, 2011 - 08:03pm PT
wonder how many of those routes now have seen decents?!!

yeah thats what i was wondering. quite a few no doubt. I recall seeing some magazine article of some wild jibber snowboarding the Bonnati Zappelli on the Grand pilier d'angle

But having said that, just next door, the cecchenel / nomine is often voted by many modern climbers as one of the coolest and most engaging mixed / ice routes they've ever done. I've never done it myself but its on my "do before I die" list.

those guys were cranking some sick sh#t with some gear that you could hardly hang a hat on. the majority of the truly mixed routes that the masters like welzenbach were churning out in the 20's and 30's will rarely if ever see complete descents except in the rarest and most forgiving conditions.

In the first half of the century, the euro's were out there like astronauts on the big mixed walls of the alps, all with a few twisted scraps of steel, dressed in rags and sporting some spectacularly oversized huevo's .

Thanks for the post SG. there's nothing quite like getting a glimpse at those old alpine mixed routes to really capture the essence of bold alpinism.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2011 - 09:02pm PT
This was definitely the stuff of dreams growing up in my little desert town!

You look at the whole array of possibilities and guys like Willo Welzenbach really shine with respect to their eye for a classical line and ability to get it done very early on.
QITNL

climber
Jan 10, 2011 - 10:04pm PT
Great stuff. Thanks!
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Jan 11, 2011 - 09:39am PT
Starting the Ice Boss, Monch
Starting the Ice Boss, Monch
Credit: Scott Thelen
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2011 - 09:48am PT
Nice Ice, Boss!

How was that one?
RDB

Social climber
wa
Jan 12, 2011 - 10:00am PT


Still one of the greatest pieces of alpine terrain in the world and much admired as worthy goals today.

Ueli Steck Speed Soloing the Ginat on the Droites from Jonathan Griffith on Vimeo.

http://vimeo.com/10676290

http://www.alpineexposures.com/pages/ginat-les-droites-trip-report



Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2011 - 10:09am PT
The spur that keeps on spurring! LOL
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Jan 12, 2011 - 05:44pm PT
Hey Steve,

The Monch was so cool. We climbed it in Mid September and were the only ones at the Gugi hut and on route.The Ice boss was great three low angle ice pitchs and two steeper pitchs then a 1800' 40 degree ice slope above.The most dangerous part was Helga at the hut on the back side.
On the way to see Hellga
On the way to see Hellga
Credit: Scott Thelen
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2011 - 05:59pm PT
Thanks Scott!

Nice spot for a hut!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2011 - 12:01pm PT
So just what did Hellga try to do to you gents?!?
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jan 15, 2011 - 12:05pm PT
With a name like Helga you need to ask? Guess you haven't seen much Wagner.

So, Stevie, when ya gonna do an homage to Kurt Diemburger? These shots bring him to mind.
Dood gave the best slide show I've ever seen. The photography was superb
and the poetry dripped from his lips. Obviously, I'm not of his ilk.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2011 - 12:10pm PT
The opera is in the details! LOL
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
Jan 15, 2011 - 08:14pm PT
bump for climbing
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2011 - 09:53am PT
Bump for eurotrash! LOL
eurotrash

climber
Denmark
Jan 16, 2011 - 11:53pm PT
Bump!!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2011 - 10:34am PT
Check out these mountains in full color splendor thanks to this thread...

http://www.supertopo.com/inc/postreply.php?topic_id=268159&tn=20
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2011 - 10:15am PT
Alpine Beauty Bump!
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Apr 2, 2011 - 10:53am PT
Bump for Kurt Diemberger - Summits and Secrets

The original austrian climbing hippie?

Him and some buddy tackled some monster cornice direct way back in the day. On aid no doubt but remember all they had back then was old bottle openers for pro.

Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Apr 2, 2011 - 12:45pm PT
Does anyone know if Kurt Diemburger is still alive? I bet not too many of Herman Buhl's old climbing buddies are still around.
Mimi

climber
Apr 2, 2011 - 12:51pm PT
Looks like it but he did have spleen surgery recently. Would love to hear him talk about his climbs.

http://viewsfromthetop.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38948
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2012 - 07:13am PT
Eis Bump...
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