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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 17, 2005 - 01:45am PT
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OK, I admit to being really hard on my gear, but the pair of Mythos that I have been using for the last 5 months are in tatters. The right one has two holes blown in the area along the ridge down from the little toe, and the left one has stiching blown out along the lacing leather seam, and is just now blowing out in the same place that the right one has. Also, the laces are totally abraided and I've had to tie them together (the lacing system is totally unforgiving).
Much of this climbing has been in Tuolumne Meadows, not too many miles there in cracks (though some) and now getting going in the Valley. But they are now essentially dead, I can't even justify taking them to the cobler for another patching, and they're not going to last to a resole.
While I like the shoe for a broad spectrum of climbing, at least in the past, it seems these shoes are no longer functional for me... they just don't last long enough to justify a $150.
Anyone else experience problems with this shoe? I know that they have a loyal following. I'll probably end up sending them back to La Sportiva just to vent...
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TradIsGood
Trad climber
Gunks end of country
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Dec 17, 2005 - 07:36am PT
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They seem to develop a hole at the rand and sole. Mine and several other people I know. Otherwise good shoe, but mine also went too early. No warning sign either. You look down to place a foot and see a hole.
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Nor Cal
Trad climber
San Mateo
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Dec 17, 2005 - 09:33am PT
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Ed,
I am a mythos wearer (is that a word?), any how, over the last few years I've noticed a steady decline in the factory quality of mythos. The edge tend to roll out from under my foot, they dont seem to resole as well as the older pairs, the rubber seems a little different. I've bought atleast 6 pair of mythos over the last 7 or 8 years (maybe more pairs than that). Foutunatley the price of the mythos has dropped to $120.
I would like to find a good alternative. I like the Splitter by montrail, but I dont like the feel of thier sliptonite in the store, it almost feels oiled... But I also think the Sportiva rubber is not as sticky as a few years back.
I suppose that with the increase of climbers the manufacturers have to make more shoes, and that often means they cut quality in the process..
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Hootervillian
climber
Hooterville
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Dec 17, 2005 - 11:37am PT
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mythos have been my trad shoes for for about the last 12 years or so, and i have had several pair. my conclusions are the same. in fact i have an older pair with a resole that i can still throw in the washer with no side effects. the newer pairs 'roll over' on the outside edge and seem funkier to me in the toe box.
i've never been a big fan of sportiva rubber but the stuff their throwing on now is weak sauce. unfortunatley i don't generally like the way even a good resole rounds the toe, so throwing on the C4 right out of the box is sketchy.
i hope this thread leads somewhere because i need some new crack shoes.
ps. what do you'all do with that 'barrel 'o ol shoes'?
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Gunkie
climber
East Coast US
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Dec 17, 2005 - 12:25pm PT
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The uppers on mine completely blew out before the sole did. La Sportiva quality and customer service has been going downhill for years. JMO.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Dec 17, 2005 - 01:28pm PT
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I don't know about Mythos, but the Megas have a big problem with the rands coming unglued.
I also agree that Sportiva rubber does not seem so sticky as it used to be.
About resoling-- if the resoler has the correct last for the brand and model and size of shoe you want resoled, then it should be OK, but what are the chances of that happening?
I knew one professional resoler who used lasts from one company for all their resoles no matter what kind of shoe.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Dec 17, 2005 - 03:02pm PT
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I've used mythos almost exculively since they came out (90)? Suplemented with Kaukulators for the dedicated wide adventures.
They do wear fast but I seem to get more life out of them than that; multiple years and up to five resoles. When Testarosa's came out, I made the switch (pro deall didn't hurt) and find them a killer jam shoe,and sturdier.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Dec 17, 2005 - 03:32pm PT
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I'm kind of surprised. I was using cheaper shoes that would shred elsewhere fast enough to make resoling impractical. When I got the chick mythos, I changed my ways. I got through 4 resoles w/o any problems. Eventually the stitching started to come out around the ankle, so I took them to cobler for a $10 fix. They're still going strong nearly 2 years of bad foot work in the wide later.
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Jay
Trad climber
Fort Mill, SC
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Dec 17, 2005 - 03:46pm PT
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That's why I don't buy Mythos anymore... they were my favorite shoe from 95-00. Went through 3 pairs, 2 lasted 3 resoles and the last ones streatched out so much I decided to try something else. I haven't notice the full downspiral of quality since I jumped ship a while back.
I've used the Dominator ever since, not quite as sensitive but make up for it in edging and they hold up much better and don't stretch out so much; great for trad climbing. And recently I've started to use the Katana too. I've fallen in love with my Katanas! They aren't for everyone though, narrow fit and funky heal box. The rubber seems pretty good though. I bought them to repace my boudering shoe the Anasazi V (which were damaging my toe nails after a number of years) and was surprized to find that they are awesome for thin cracks and edge pretty good too.
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ladd
Trad climber
near Fresno - land of fruits, nuts and flakes
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Dec 17, 2005 - 04:18pm PT
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Ed... from reading yours and other's threads, it sure sounds like the Mythos aren't so mythical anymore - a bum deal.
I'm looking for a new boot, and have been looking at the 5.10 altia - a revival in high top trads? Although, the Altia reviews of old don't bode well - revamped, the newest Altia looks like a high top version of the Anasazi? For a curious ole trad'erer, have you considered these - or better yet, does anybody have a word (yeh/ney) on the newest Altia?
cheers
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 17, 2005 - 09:18pm PT
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Well all is not lost, I just got my old Newtons back from Marmot today, half resole and a little rand work. They should be good for a year or so (wear like steel). They were going to be my backup shoes... now they're off the bench and on the A squad.
In the meantime I'll be looking for a new boot. I emailed and called Gary Mekan, but he is in some sort of transition, not sure I'll get him to craft a custom pair for me anytime soon.
I used to like the Dominator, until they went aggro with the canted toe thing for the sport climbing crowd. Maybe I can get the chick Mythos and hope for Melissa's good karma... but who am I fooling?!
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mike hartley
climber
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Dec 18, 2005 - 11:24am PT
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Ed,
Ditto on your experiences. My Mythos separated at the mid-sole under the balls of both feet. And I used to love the Dominators (and Aces) until they cranked the heel so tight that I couldn't stand the pain. So I'm back to looking again.
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426
Sport climber
Another slopey nightmare, GA
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Dec 19, 2005 - 11:16am PT
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Hooterville, "ps. what do you'all do with that 'barrel 'o ol shoes'?"
Wear them out clubbing, they are perfect for "Hey Mr. DJ"...all the rage!
http://www.nextag.com/puma-klim-shoes/search-html
(Check out the R Wns)
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Nor Cal
Trad climber
San Mateo
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Dec 19, 2005 - 11:25am PT
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why not try and return your Mythos to REI? they will take just about anything back. they exchanged a well worn alien that the braided trigger came apart on, and that was a year after I bought it.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2005 - 11:48am PT
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I bought the shoes from Shoreline when they "moved"... and stockpiled them for a year or so.
I am unhappy mostly because a good shoe is not a good shoe anymore and I have to find something else. It is the price to pay for leaving in a society dominated by commercialism and markets. Change is required because it keeps the manufacturer in the eye of the consumers, not because change is required.
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Nor Cal
Trad climber
San Mateo
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Dec 19, 2005 - 12:18pm PT
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Ed, I know a guy found a pair of shoes and returned them to REI.
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Forest
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Dec 19, 2005 - 02:02pm PT
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Return them. A friend of mine returned a bum pair of mythos to La Sportiva and got a brand new pair from them. I'm just starting on on my 4th pair of Mythos in 7 years or so, I think. Been my staple shoe. Averaging around 2 years a pair, with lots of use, so no complaints from me. I really hope my next pair doesn't turn out to be crap, tho, based on all these posts.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Dec 19, 2005 - 03:27pm PT
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As a long time Sportiva user, I sent Sportiva USA a link to this thread and they just responded saying they've read it and are passing it up the chain there, so if you have anything constructive to say, do it now...
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Jay
Trad climber
Fort Mill, SC
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Dec 19, 2005 - 04:40pm PT
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'bout time someone actually did something thoughtful... thanks
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Klienaman
Trad climber
Flagstaff, Az
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Dec 19, 2005 - 06:30pm PT
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My girlfriend and I had similar problems with our Mythos a few years back. After a few month of climbing in them, mostly at paradise forks or the draw both of our shoes developed holes in the toes. Funny how shoe companies always blame that on poor technique. Anyhow rather than going straight to Sportiva, we sent those shoes in for a resole, about a week after getting those shoes back, holy crap the other shoe (for both of us) began to delaminate, really I couldn't make this up. Now I went to the company and was greatly dissapointed. Whoever I talked to was incredibly rude, burning me off with tales of how when he freed moonlight in a day he blew out a pair of shoes. I explained to him that I was hoping they might help up fix the falling apart shoes and he basically laughed in my face. Telling me there was no way they would help us due to the fact that we had resoled the other shoe in the pair. I expressed my dissatisfaction and asked if he even cared about me as a customer and if he was concerned with losing me as a customer. The answer was a flat out no I don't care about losing you as a customer. So basically that was the last pair of Sportivas I have ever owned and I would encourage others to spend their money wisely and purchase from other companies with better customer service. Sorry for the rant but when you spend 300 dollars (2 pairs) for shoes they should at least last 6 months, unless of course you are freeing moonlight, in which case hopefully you work for a manufacturer. Good luck
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