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ricardo
Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
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Dec 19, 2005 - 06:37pm PT
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i go through 2 pairs of mythos each year ..
i dont like the way the resole feels .. (and from my experience the resole lasts even less) ..
.. i love the shoe though -- (mostly because its comfortable enough to wear all day long -- and still perform) .. so i will keep on putting up $240/year for shoes ..
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Victorville, CA
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Dec 19, 2005 - 06:49pm PT
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Scarpa used to make a climbing "shoe" that weighed in at about 4 pounds per pair, 8mm soles, 4mm rands, leather uppers. Cracks sent nearly pain free! and 5.11 edges, like standing on BRICKS!!!
And they were so beefy I don't recall ever fixing a single pair of them, man they wore and wore and wore. Just one little detail, they WERE bricks! You could feel nothing through those shoes, 2 x 4s were more sensitive.
I have not seen a Mythos recently, don't own a pair, and connot comment on construct, but here are some thoughts on lightweight shoes in general.
Nearly every time a shoe gets lighter, it also becomes less durable. It's not that tough to figure out. If you want killer sensitivity, and amazing edging, and your budget is unlimited, go with 5mm resoles instead of 7mm, they won't last as long but oooh baby.
If a shoe delaminates, ok bad construct, but if it pulls seams apart because the seams were abraded, sewn into thinner material that blew under load, at least some of the failure can be attributed to the fact that lighter shoes simply do not wear as well as heavier ones.
If you want beef, buy it, if you want a slipper, don't expect it to wear like a pair of plasticoated lava domes.
How many climbing shops carry the LaSportiva Tradmaster??
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2005 - 07:18pm PT
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my experience with Mythos is that they went from a 3 resole shoe to a no resole shoe... the uppers used to last long enough to climb in them for about a 2 years...
The pair I have now really went to hell fast. People at the gym were asking me how old they were, expecting me to say 5 years and were shocked with disbelief when I said 3 months.
If Sportiva is interested, I could probably give them a pitch-by-pitch account of how I used the shoe. My technique has only gotten better over the time I've been using Mythos, the lifetime of the shoe has been falling.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Dec 19, 2005 - 07:41pm PT
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IF sportiva is really listening, well,
WHY did you stop making the Mega???
AND WHY did you replace it with a shoe that has no ankle protection???
Maybe it is not the cool, in style thing to have right now, but some people who put their feet in cracks like to have their ankles covered.
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Forest
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Dec 19, 2005 - 07:42pm PT
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Maybe it is not the cool, in style thing to have right now, but some people who put their feet in cracks like to have their ankles covered.
Seem pretty likely to me that "some people" were not enough people who actually bought the shoe...
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Victorville, CA
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Dec 19, 2005 - 07:47pm PT
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Mariacher, killer crack shoe, gone the way of the discontinued shoe.
Anybody tried the Sportiva Tradmaster?
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ladd
Trad climber
near Fresno - land of fruits, nuts and flakes
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Dec 19, 2005 - 07:51pm PT
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YES...I'll second that - Sportiva back the Mega! I'm looking for a high top to replace a fine ole pair of Kauknlaters ;) hence my interest is now swayed in the direction of a 5.10 Altia boot.
cheers
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Dec 19, 2005 - 08:04pm PT
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I got essentially a new pair of blue Kaukulators off ebay earlier this year and they are back to being my primary shoe. Didn't care for the brown Kaukulators, and I posted instructions on RC.com for removing the achille's rand from Megas so you could actually wear them all day without cutting you in half - but they still don't hold a candle to the original blue Kaukulators. So skip the Megas and just bring back the blue Kaukulators...
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 19, 2005 - 08:32pm PT
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Trivia time ....
Anyone want to know how the kaukulator got it's name? We're at the climb that's now called the kaukulator, and bachar says I kaukulate that kauk will do this in fine style.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2005 - 08:39pm PT
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I have a pair of blue Kaukulators... perhaps it's time to bust them out and get a C4 resole for them...
...remember, never through anything away!
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Dec 19, 2005 - 09:08pm PT
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Blue kauks W/c-4 are THE WIDE RIDE. T-War, random Lucille & Squat repeats, The Belly, various desert epics, uncountable B.A.M. & Genrator solos and everything @ Patterson flake.
ON-1, count'em 1! resole!!!!
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Dec 19, 2005 - 10:11pm PT
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I think the most I got out of a pair of Kalkulators was about six resoles, I'm going to try to revive an old pair out of desperation.
Mythos used to be good for three resoles and then just got to baggy to be worth another one. The present pair has completely structuraly failed near the end of the first resole. I'd concur that the quality has taken a dump.
Forget about bringing back the Mega unless it's a reincarnation of the original. (the one with the gel heel, although not for that feature, for the fit). In its last form it was a clodhopper. Wish I hadn't bought them.
A rencarnated blue Kalculator?
Now, that would be worth it!
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Dec 20, 2005 - 07:43pm PT
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Ok, this is about the Katanas, in the hope Sportiva is reading this.
I've got the yellow ones. Within 5 uses, the sole started delaminating on the inside of the foot, at the front of the arch. Fortunately, this isn't a critical area, but it looked like pretty poor workmanship. Can't cite poor footwork (which I have) since you don't stand on or drag that part of the shoe.
But, I noticed when they introduced the women's katanas, the velcro is backed with leather. This is a good idea, and I think this should be done on the yellow/men's version as well. I've been stuffing those shoes into cracks (bought them for sport, but they're surprisingly good crack shoes) and the plastic strap velcro backing wears really fast, I've blown half the stitches, and I've thrashed the strap. The lips of cracks really dig in, and saw at the strap. I think it would hold up much better if backed with leather.
Oh, and send me free shoes.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Dec 20, 2005 - 09:15pm PT
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What loves gas said!
Buy mythos painfully small and they won't stretch on resole.
"SPORTIVA: Re-INTRODUCE THE BLUE KAUKS!!"
Carlton, are you listening???
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Jay
Trad climber
Fort Mill, SC
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Dec 21, 2005 - 09:56am PT
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Lovegasoline,
I normally wear a US 12 1/2 A or B; very narrow foot wouldn’t you say? Of all the climbing shoe makers Sportiva generally fits me best too. I’d usually buy a size 45 Mythos or 45.5 Enduro and Kaukulator. The last pair of Mythos I purchased back in 98 (which I still have in reserve) are size 44.5. In less than 2 months (used 2-3 times a week) my friend noticed that my climbing shoes were a little floppy. I told him they were the tightest fitting boot I’d purchased at the time (key word being ‘were’). By the next climbing season they had stretched out so much I needed socks to make them snug again. Another few more months and a resole later they simply were too wide for my foot even with cotton socks.
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Jay
Trad climber
Fort Mill, SC
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Dec 21, 2005 - 09:58am PT
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Believe me, if I could get the Mythos that I used to know and love back it would mean a lot. As far as I know she is gone.
Father La Sportiva, if you can find her please bring her back to me. As far as the imposter, our relationship is without hope due to irreconcilable differences. Now I’m seriously courting the semi-old Dominator and the Katana. I’m hoping one of these will be a lasting relationship.
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Dec 21, 2005 - 12:11pm PT
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Original Megas' were the bomb. Resole with Onyx for the perfect Tuolumne shoe!
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ricardo
Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
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Dec 21, 2005 - 01:11pm PT
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so i have 3 pairs of mythos that could be resoled .. and i am going to send them to get them fixed ..
.. where do you guys get your resoles .. (or is there a good place to take them too in northern cal?) ..
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Dec 21, 2005 - 01:19pm PT
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ricardo, Yosemite Bum and Positive Resoles both do great work, the shoes come back looking new. I think YB only uses Trax rubber now though, if that makes a difference. It's good stuff.
I've had a pair done at a shoe repair shop in Davis, with less than stellar results, and a partner had a pair of mythos done at Marmot in Berkeley, that looked like hell. They pretty much ruined his shoes.
Maybe just drop them off at Nomad's next JTree trip, and have positive resoles mail them back to you.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Dec 21, 2005 - 02:28pm PT
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The rubber room in bishop, I've had dozens of steller resoles from them.
My newest Mythos are almosttwo years old, did they 'go bad' since then?
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