Donini Bard Barton Long Meyers Bragg DR, Vandiver etc BITD

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Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 28, 2010 - 09:50am PT
George Meyers and DR at the base of Seaside, 1975:


Meyers, Long, the late Peter Barton, Bircheff:


Donini, Jardine, Bragg in C4 lot:

my friend Jon from Sacramento, 1971:


Kevin Donald and Lowe in Eldo 1975 or so:


awkward portrait of Galen Rowell:


Me and Bridwell doing a very early ascent of Meatgrinder at the Cookie:


Me learning aid on the junkpile of Pinnacle Rock, Berkeley in 1963/4:


A shot of John Bragg after the crux move on the FA of "Call of the Wild", Half Dome. This first and crux pitch was pretty tricky and unusual. John was in peak form then and thought it was 5.10a. Subsequent ascents have pegged it at 5.10d, fairly. John was also really very tall and limber:


Me on Cap Tree Direct back in about 1965, before it avalanched in the early 70's. You nailed what turned out to be future fracture line; weird too-- it was a straight-in crack especially higher up, but was expanding.....


Dale Bard on "In Dubious Battle" (below Peter Pan on El Cap), thinking it was a first ascent only to discover Jardine's 3/4" angle buried around the corner:








nature

climber
Tucson, AZ
Jul 28, 2010 - 09:52am PT
very nice!
Jim E

climber
away
Jul 28, 2010 - 10:03am PT
Best post of the month!
Alan Rubin

climber
Amherst,MA.
Jul 28, 2010 - 10:04am PT
Great to see the pix Peter. I never remember Donini being so "hairy", in fact the person looks more like Steve Wunsch than Donini, but then it could be my memory after all those years. Seeing the picture of Pete Barton still makes me emotional--such a great guy and sad loss.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Jul 28, 2010 - 10:15am PT
I saw Kevin Donald just the other day and aside from a little less hair he hasn't changed a bit.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2010 - 10:24am PT
Hi Alan!

No, it is Donini. He has had full-on hairy phases; you have just forgotten. It is true he looks like Wunsch though. They were good friends too. Here is Jim around that same time, at the bottom of I think Waverly Wafer, belaying.

guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Jul 28, 2010 - 10:24am PT
Great photos Peter. Love those white aid slings and rare to see a hard hat used back then. Looks like an old Stubai hammer? Flavor of the ice cream? Frappe la tete?
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2010 - 11:33am PT
That helmet, Guido, was a Bell. I got it from The Ski Hut, Al Steck's shop he ran for George Rudolph et al. I still remember pulling that hat out of the box, what it smelled like new. I am thinking it was a xmas present for 1963 from my parents. Needless to say, I discarded it pretty quickly. No one, as you say, was wearing hard hats then and climbing was hard enough as it was.
Hardly Visible

Social climber
Llatikcuf WA
Jul 28, 2010 - 12:16pm PT
Thanks Peter,
This is the sort of stuff that makes this place special.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Jul 28, 2010 - 12:25pm PT

AWESOME photos, Peter.

Please grace us with more!!!!!
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Jul 28, 2010 - 06:16pm PT
Really great nostalgia!!:)
Mimi

climber
Jul 28, 2010 - 06:27pm PT
Wow! Keep digging!

Thanks Peter.
PhilG

Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
Jul 28, 2010 - 06:43pm PT
Another great post, Peter.
I think SuperTopo is going to end up being the best rock climbing history site on the web.
Jan

Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
Jul 28, 2010 - 08:26pm PT
Yes Peter. Keep posting please.

I had a pair of those white nylon aid slings and they might still be in a trunk somewhere.
Stubai was the hammer I used and I got a helmut like that when I first climbe in the Alps. I still have that too.

I also wanted to mention that I bought Photoshop elements finally on your recommendation.
I've been downloading all the advice you give on ST for how to process old slides.
Thanks!
Lovegasoline

Trad climber
Sh#t Hole, Brooklyn, NY
Jul 28, 2010 - 11:26pm PT
Cool old school pics.

Your 'friend Jon from Sacramento' (fourth pic) is wearing lipstick.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2010 - 07:03am PT
Gasoline. I have replaced and desaturated those magentas for you; take a look and see what you think. I think it is safe to climb in the Meadows again. Thanks.
Les

Trad climber
Bahston
Jul 29, 2010 - 07:17am PT
wow, amazing stuff. thanks for sharing.
Maysho

climber
Soda Springs, CA
Jul 29, 2010 - 07:18am PT
Wow Peter, incredible photos, thanks!

Not one to overly wax nostalgic, I still appreciate the huge difference you faced in heading up steep hard cracks with a few pins or hexes, way more adventure than plugging in those springy things.

I love the one of you nailing on Pinnacle Rock! That funky crack was my first "lead" with a top rope backup as a 13 year old RCS punk.

Peter
Double D

climber
Jul 29, 2010 - 09:11am PT
Peter... great pics. It's funny but I still remember the individual cars in the C4 parking lot from that era.

Thanks for posting.
thaDood

Mountain climber
Porta Ledga Onza Kaleefa
Jan 11, 2011 - 01:48pm PT
great thread, i must have missed it first time around.

how time fly's...
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