The Nose-Second Ascent 50th RR, Pratt ,Frost, Fitschen 1960

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Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 1, 2010 - 11:18am PT

On September 13, 1960 Royal Robbins, Joe Fitschen, Chuck Pratt and Tom Frost completed the second ascent of the Nose of El Capitan in seven days of climbing. Royal reflected later that the experience was "the most magnificent and complete adventure of our lives."

The first ascent of the Nose was a singular event with respect to the tactics, constraints and variety of players involved. The prospect of repeating the route in a continuous push still held considerable unknown and the team prepared well.

Royal promptly wrote an account of their grand adventure for the December, 1960 issue of the Sierra Club Bulletin. Some of the images suffer for the scanning and I will try to replace and add to them as this thread progresses. My working set of Frost images is out of my hands at the moment but as his work is everywhere, I'll do my best!

Plans are in the works to gather in celebration for this 50th anniversary sometime in October. Tom, Joe and Royal are psyched up for the event by all accounts so this should be big fun. Tom got his start as a photographer during this climb when the Dolt showed him how to use his Leica and then loaned it to Tom! I think that Bill was deeply curious about the character of the beautiful upper dihedral that he never touched once Mark Powell injured his ankle and the Dolt spooked and split!

Loads of history in and around this particular ascent that make it stand apart from other El Cap routes and repeats. More on that front as it flows along...

The sortout. Frost photo.

Cragman

Trad climber

June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road

Jul 1, 2010 - 11:26am PT

Robbins last sentence in his article is pretty amazing. My how things have changed.

Great stuff Steve, thanks for posting.

Ihateplastic

Trad climber

It ain't El Cap, Oregon

Jul 1, 2010 - 11:55am PT

What's with the eye patch? It seems I have seen shots taken during the same day and never once seen the eye patch!

Ron Anderson

Trad climber

USA Carson city Nev.

Jul 1, 2010 - 12:03pm PT

Imagine being there, then.....The nose, or 27 days on the WOEML... and a semi uncrowded valley.......You can almost taste the wonder, hear the far off ring of solid pitons.....Those guys, our forefathers, had it GOOD!!

Notice in the pic at the table all the neatly laid out biners them pretending to "fiddle" with gear as if it needed it, when in reality they were thinking "can this be done?" "are we Crazy???" and, "a couch would be nice right about now!"

they were stalling whilst contemplating the impossible that turned out possible....

couchmaster

climber

pdx

Jul 1, 2010 - 12:08pm PT

Wow, nice share Steve!

Chicken Skinner

Trad climber

Yosemite

Jul 1, 2010 - 12:12pm PT

On October 23,there will be a presentation by Royal, Tom and Joe about this very climb. It will be at the East Auditorium in Yosemite Valley. Stay tuned.

Ken

Mighty Hiker

climber

Vancouver, B.C.

Jul 1, 2010 - 12:14pm PT

Very nice! I wonder if the commemoration could be somehow part of the FaceLift, or if at least there could be a presentation about the climb one night?

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2010 - 12:58pm PT

This should be a stand alone event even if it is promoted at the Facelift.

Cragman

Trad climber

June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road

Jul 1, 2010 - 01:00pm PT

I believe the story behind the eye patch was a piece of metal off a pin when delivering a hammer blow.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2010 - 01:22pm PT

That's the explanation...a hot chunk of chromoly.

Mighty Hiker

climber

Vancouver, B.C.

Jul 1, 2010 - 01:24pm PT

So much for the 'pirate' theory.

Thorgon

Big Wall climber

Sedro Woolley, WA

Jul 1, 2010 - 01:32pm PT

Skully, M.H. said 'Pirate' AARRGG

What a great article, thanks Steve!

Thor

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2010 - 01:39pm PT

White cotton balls just not quite sinister enough for a proper pirate! Though, if anyone from the Golden Age convincingly looked the part of a freebooter, that would have been Chuck. Harrrr! Shiver me belayer!

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Jul 1, 2010 - 03:45pm PT

When is the anniversary of the third ascent?

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2010 - 04:07pm PT

I am trying to recall who did the third. I think that Gary Colliver was in on it but I can't find a citation. Anyone? Not that Jim is really looking for an answer...

scuffy b

climber

Eastern Salinia

Jul 1, 2010 - 04:43pm PT

Roper Kor Denny.

I'll post a good link when I find it again.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=717593&msg=717633#msg717633

There's no end of amazement courtesy of Guido and BBA.