Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 58 of total 58 in this topic |
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 1, 2010 - 02:18pm PT
|
On September 13, 1960 Royal Robbins, Joe Fitschen, Chuck Pratt and Tom Frost completed the second ascent of the Nose of El Capitan in seven days of climbing. Royal reflected later that the experience was "the most magnificent and complete adventure of our lives."
The first ascent of the Nose was a singular event with respect to the tactics, constraints and variety of players involved. The prospect of repeating the route in a continuous push still held considerable unknown and the team prepared well.
Royal promptly wrote an account of their grand adventure for the December, 1960 issue of the Sierra Club Bulletin. Some of the images suffer for the scanning and I will try to replace and add to them as this thread progresses. My working set of Frost images is out of my hands at the moment but as his work is everywhere, I'll do my best!
Plans are in the works to gather in celebration for this 50th anniversary sometime in October. Tom, Joe and Royal are psyched up for the event by all accounts so this should be big fun. Tom got his start as a photographer during this climb when the Dolt showed him how to use his Leica and then loaned it to Tom! I think that Bill was deeply curious about the character of the beautiful upper dihedral that he never touched once Mark Powell injured his ankle and the Dolt spooked and split!
Loads of history in and around this particular ascent that make it stand apart from other El Cap routes and repeats. More on that front as it flows along...
The sortout. Frost photo.
|
|
Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
|
|
What's with the eye patch? It seems I have seen shots taken during the same day and never once seen the eye patch!
|
|
Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
|
|
On October 23,there will be a presentation by Royal, Tom and Joe about this very climb. It will be at the East Auditorium in Yosemite Valley. Stay tuned.
Ken
|
|
Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
Very nice! I wonder if the commemoration could be somehow part of the FaceLift, or if at least there could be a presentation about the climb one night?
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2010 - 03:58pm PT
|
This should be a stand alone event even if it is promoted at the Facelift.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2010 - 04:22pm PT
|
That's the explanation...a hot chunk of chromoly.
|
|
Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
So much for the 'pirate' theory.
|
|
Thorgon
Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
|
|
Skully, M.H. said 'Pirate' AARRGG
What a great article, thanks Steve!
Thor
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2010 - 04:39pm PT
|
White cotton balls just not quite sinister enough for a proper pirate! Though, if anyone from the Golden Age convincingly looked the part of a freebooter, that would have been Chuck. Harrrr! Shiver me belayer!
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
When is the anniversary of the third ascent?
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2010 - 07:07pm PT
|
I am trying to recall who did the third. I think that Gary Colliver was in on it but I can't find a citation. Anyone? Not that Jim is really looking for an answer...
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2010 - 08:21pm PT
|
Late May of 63 in three and a half days! Smokin' fast!
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2010 - 02:07am PT
|
Nose Bump!
|
|
guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
|
|
May 30, 1963 3rd ascent: Kor, Roper and Denny
June 1965 4th ascent:
Evans, Colliver and McCracken
|
|
Mimi
climber
|
|
You coming to this one, Guido?!?
|
|
BooDawg
Social climber
Paradise Island
|
|
I'll be sorry to miss this one as well as so many others...
However, I'm planning to be in N. CA during the last 2 weeks of August, and want to make a pilgrammage to Yosemite/Tuolume, hopefully with or meet Guido, Lauria, Hennek, McLean, Cohen, Dozier, and others from that era who may be in the area then. Please let me know if you'll be around.
Ken
|
|
guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
|
|
Shirley
|
|
Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
|
|
Wow! Just a couple months before I was born, and I thought I was old! God bless these pioneers of the vertical...Such awesome risks assumed as well for these men!!
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2010 - 02:05pm PT
|
Laverne Bump!
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2010 - 07:53pm PT
|
It wasn't all suffering...
Pratt in repose on El Cap Tower from The Stanford Alpine Club by John Rawlings and Glen Denny, 1999. Frost photo.
|
|
Royal Robbins
Trad climber
Modesto, California
|
|
Thanks, fellow climbers, for your kindness. Hope to see you in October. Go Denny etal!
Best,
Royal Robbins
|
|
Royal Robbins
Trad climber
Modesto, California
|
|
Thanks, fellow climbers, for your kindness. Hope to see you in October. Go Denny etal!
Best,
Royal Robbins
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2010 - 09:54pm PT
|
Glad that you are stoked, Royal!
I recently asked Tom about being chosen for this route along with Pratt as three year men. He stated plainly that the experience elevated and changed his life. How did you choose Joe for this project?
|
|
oldguy
climber
Bronx, NY
|
|
I should probably let Royal answer this, but I think I know the answer. Royal and I were climbing partners from 1956 on, spending many days at Tahquitz as well as doing some climbs in the Valley. Harding finished the Nose while we were in the Army (and not climbing much), but even then Royal said we had to do the second ascent, and we made tentative plans for September 1959 when we took a month's leave from the Army and spent it in the Valley. Our planning, however, was poor as was the weather, so the Nose became a prime project for 1960. Royal recruited Tom, and I recruited Chuck who I met in Berkeley while I was stationed at Fort Mason over in San Francisco. Chuck and I did a number of climbs in the Valley when I was able to escape the Army, and then Royal, Chuck, and I spent the summer of 1960 climbing at Tahquitz and then the Valley. Royal and I also spent a month in the Tetons, living in the furnace next to Yvon and Ken Weeks. Chuck, in true Chuck fashion, chose to stay in the Valley and live with the heat.
I'm planning to show up at the anniversary in October, so I hope to see many of my old friends, lift a glass or two, and, perhaps, spin a few yarns. I have noticed a tendency to wreath some of us older climbers with laurel. Actually, we just thought we knew a few ways to have fun, although in retrospect there was a hint of desperation in our lives. No money, no women, and no respect other than from our fellow climbers. And we also thought the Valley was way overcrowded with tourists, even then. Still, it was a wonderful summer.
|
|
scuffy b
climber
Eastern Salinia
|
|
Three year men??
If I recall right, there was a passage in Roper's Red guidebook about the
three-year phenomenon. It was noticed that a number of climbers made
really fast progress, sometimes audacious or even reckless, and toatlly
quit after three years.
A subject of concern for the safety-minded.
Obviously Messrs Frost and Pratt didn't follow that pattern.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2010 - 08:28pm PT
|
Thanks for the background, Joe! I am looking forward to meeting you at this gathering and hearing what you recall about this grand adventure.
You guys were awesome on this one so quit deflecting praise. If the three of you start racing down the humble trail we'll have to send out a search party! LOL
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2010 - 09:03pm PT
|
Joe- Do you recall which leads you ended up with as a foursome? You guys presumably split into climbing and hauling teams and alternated each day, as Royal describes. Which pitches stand out in your memory?
|
|
oldguy
climber
Bronx, NY
|
|
|
Jul 14, 2010 - 10:40am PT
|
Steve - We did function as two teams of two, the only change being that after the second day Tom switched with Royal and became my partner for the rest of the climb. The downside was that each of us prussiked half of the climb and followed a quarter of the climb, so we only led a quarter of the route. But there was no way around it at the time. Memorable pitches? The pendulums were fun, even following. Stove leg was impressive because of the sudden steepness. I never was very good at remembering pitch details, and the upper part was mostly straight forward nailing. I do remember leading a pitch free, below Camp 6 I think. This was notable because we were carrying so many pitons and carabiners that we didn't try to do sections free that we could have with a lighter rack. We were also trailing ropes that we needed to install for the hauling team. See you later.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2010 - 08:07pm PT
|
Pretty hard to float along with all that impedimentia and ironmongery! LOL
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2010 - 02:50pm PT
|
Nose Bump!
|
|
Mimi
climber
|
|
In 1959 Tom Frost, Yvon Chouinard and the Dolt climbed up to Sickle Ledge. They had been tinkering around with the RURP and were able to climb past several bolts with better equipment just a year after the FA. The Dolt took this classic shot of Tom and YC.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2010 - 06:50pm PT
|
The previous post was actually mine not Mimi's.
Hot off the press in the September 1960 issue of Summit. They topped out on the 13th!
|
|
Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
|
|
|
Aug 29, 2010 - 06:07am PT
|
God bless the hero Royal...And to you Steve for posting this, it was such the monumental move into the future for these pioneers!!!:)
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2010 - 09:47am PT
|
Chris- It should be out early next year!
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2010 - 11:30am PT
|
Somebody got a bit carried away..."scarcely a crack or fracture in its entire perpendicular wall."
Those are some mighty sweet nuthins up there! LOL
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2010 - 01:25pm PT
|
The second ascent began on Labor Day, fifty years ago!
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 11, 2010 - 12:33pm PT
|
Well ensconsed in the upper dihedral...Bump!
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 17, 2010 - 08:39pm PT
|
Those guys topped out last Monday back fifty years.
As part of the upcoming gathering, Tom Frost is going to be signing prints on Saturday afternoon at the Mountain Shop in Curry Village. In addition to his set portfolio, a set of select Nose prints will also be available signed. Royal has books to sign as well. The schedule should be available soon.
These prints are digital and very reasonably priced. Tom will also have some of his current portflio of fine art prints on hand. More on this portfolio soon.
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Sep 17, 2010 - 10:02pm PT
|
this Saturday?
Sept 18th?
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 18, 2010 - 10:45pm PT
|
No, Saturday October 23 as part of the Robbins, Frost and Fitschen Nose gathering. From 4 to 6pm as per the last schedule that I have seen.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2010 - 09:24pm PT
|
Big Event Bump!
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2010 - 12:25am PT
|
Two weekends away!
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2010 - 09:42pm PT
|
Regularly scheduled Bump!
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 14, 2010 - 11:44am PT
|
And another...
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2010 - 12:10pm PT
|
One week away!
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2010 - 08:41pm PT
|
Four days away...Bump!
|
|
BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
|
|
|
Oct 20, 2010 - 09:44pm PT
|
Man, I sure wish I could make it to that event. An event to tie us back to that time when there were so many more possibilities in the valley.
The Nose might be the best rock climb on Earth.
I also find it damn amazing how fast they did the second ascent. You can still spend that much time up there with modern cams and stuff.
I can't see anywhere that Harding overbolted the thing, and the cracks are sculpted by the Great Spirit himself.
That must have been a magnificent (and may I add rather ballsy) adventure to just hop up there and do it in a push.
I only did it once, coming out of total retirement to do it with my brother in law, who had done only a handful of multi-pitch routes.
We had it to ourselves until an East German team caught us on the last pitch. It was the first East German team to do it, right after the berlin wall came down. Those dudes were STRONG.
And we got to the top and they shouted "Berg Heil!" with handshakes all around. Which I had heard before from americans but didn't know that the Germans really said it. Those dudes were unreal happy. So was I.
I'm sorry. The Nose is just an unbelievable route, no matter who you are.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2010 - 02:27pm PT
|
Proud Bump!
|
|
Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
A comment on Mimi's photo of Chouinard and Frost:
Yes, indeed, it is a Dolt photo, though it is shown "reversed" and it is of them as they began the East Face of El Cap. I have the original negs and even a two more (of Yvon) from the same ascent. I'll try to post them soon as "bumps" for this thread.
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
Don, this one, that Steve posted (w/ Mimi's account)? To me, it looks like the base of the first pitch of the Nose, and the orientation looks right (a tiny bit of Sentinel Rock and Sentinel Dome faintly in background). It was printed this way in the 1975 Chouinard/GPIW catalog, on the "Chouinard Firsts" page 5. http://home.comcast.net/%7Ee.hartouni/GPIW/GPIW.html
(pitch location not exactly the same, but I needed a shot that was not from the morning to match the lighting a bit)
It will be cool to see the other photos you have!
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2011 - 03:18pm PT
|
Bump for Dolt photos!
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2016 - 04:36pm PT
|
Classic Bump...
|
|
aspendougy
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
|
|
That photo of "Pratt in repose" is amazing!!
He passed on too early. It would have been instructive and interesting to see how he got started, and was able to do the 2nd ascent of The Nose after only three years of climbing. I wonder what he climbed, and how often, to get to that point in three years.
One thing I missed reading this before. I often think of climbing as being a highly individualistic sport, not a team endeavor. But Tom Frost yo-yo-ing up and down prusiking heavy packs to the point of exhaustion, doing the most unpleasant part for the team, that really says a lot about a man's character. What a great example
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2016 - 02:47pm PT
|
Tom Frost is the ultimate team player and the thought of hauling this way is heinous.
|
|
| Messages 1 - 58 of total 58 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!