Dozier Dome

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bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 30, 2010 - 07:31pm PT
I know of all the easier 5.6/5.7 routes, The McTopo stuff. Does anybody have topos of the newer stuff (or older stuff)? I remember some 5.10 face climbs going up...

Photos work too!
medusa

Trad climber
culver city
Jun 30, 2010 - 07:43pm PT
LOL!!!
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Jun 30, 2010 - 07:47pm PT
All choss. nothing to see there.
MisterE

Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
Jun 30, 2010 - 07:58pm PT
Greg Barnes has the info I think, as well as Minerals.

I got the 2nd ascent of "Tourettes" (5.10b?), left side with a 5.8 slab (1st pitch) approach to a nice ledge:

photo not found
Missing photo ID#162140
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 30, 2010 - 08:00pm PT
Thanks, Eric. Hopefully they'll chime in.
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Jun 30, 2010 - 08:24pm PT
Errett-Bit. Note the clip.
Errett-Bit. Note the clip.
Credit: John Bolte
Greg Barnes

climber
Jun 30, 2010 - 08:57pm PT
The left side is all covered in the new as-of-last-year Supertopo guidebook: http://www.supertopo.com/packs/tuolfree.html

Except the project right of Loud & Obnoxious (shown as "project" on the topo), which was completed last year. I don't have the details on it but it is 5.11a or 11b if I remember correctly.

But that whole left side of Dozier is pretty wet right now, it will be a bit before it dries out.
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Jun 30, 2010 - 09:03pm PT
2 climbers at the top of Errett Out

Tom Rogers at the top of p1 on Cheetos & Everclear...Holdless Horror is the obvious crack to the right.

Tom starting Plutonics
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Jun 30, 2010 - 09:11pm PT
like I said.
scooter

climber
fist clamp
Jun 30, 2010 - 10:38pm PT
Out of Gas 5.10 and theclimb just to its right, can't remeber the name are two of my favorite routes. Out of Gas has some of the coolest gold polish climbing I have done in the meadows. A touch run out. Tuolumne.

bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 30, 2010 - 11:26pm PT
Out of Gas has some of the coolest gold polish climbing I have done in the meadows. A touch run out. Tuolumne.

Yesssssssssssssssssss, this is what I was looking for,,,,,,more!!!!
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Jun 30, 2010 - 11:53pm PT
another shot of Plutonics

rwedgee

Ice climber
canyon country,CA
Jul 1, 2010 - 12:15am PT
Loud & Obnoxious is 10a and extremely bolted by Meadows standards. Everything there is "safe" as far as runouts go. Bolted anchors are nice when the clouds come in and it rains. You can bail w/o gear. Dozier's kind of our back up when the weather sucks.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jul 1, 2010 - 12:52am PT
maybe you've done this... but check out this site:

http://www.tuolumnemeadows.org

you can also obtain additional picture topos for some areas (like Dozier Dome)...

I met Jeff Dozier at the Sacherer Remembrance last May in the Valley. He recalled his attempts to name the dome after Chief Tenaya's daughter (the name escapes me now) but to no avail. He realized this once when he was discussing the place with another climber, some long time into the description of where this place was the other climber realized "Oh, you mean Dozier Dome."

Jeff's a great guy and he probably deserves a dome named after him, even if it's informal.
MisterE

Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
Jul 1, 2010 - 12:55am PT
Thanks for the reference, Ed - here's some bits of the history (if one trusts wikipedia):

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chief_Tenaya

and further:

http://www.yosemite.ca.us/library/yosemite_indians_and_other_sketches/indians.html
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
Jul 1, 2010 - 12:56am PT
Hey has any one seen Minerals or talked with him in the last 4 weeks? Just Curious?
Greg Barnes

climber
Jul 1, 2010 - 01:14am PT
Mark, he's heading back to Reno sometime soon, definitely by the weekend. I let him know the temp forecast for Reno yesterday, he didn't want to hit the storage unit when it's 95 degrees out...
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Jul 1, 2010 - 01:56am PT
mark - spent three days last week on the Minerals rehab tour... we didn't go to Dozier though, too chossy.
DrDeeg

Mountain climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Jul 17, 2010 - 03:08pm PT
Dozier Dome history:

I spent most of the summers of 1970-72 working on my PhD thesis -- on channel morphology in gravel bed streams, using the Dana Fork for the measurements. With a variety of partners (Eric Beck, Steve Thompson, TM Herbert, David Green, and my cousin Lance Dozier) I did many of the Dome's routes. I had put these into Tom Gerughty's binder, but there was just a single copy of the binder, so some route descriptions were lost. We placed no bolts.

Eric Beck and I did what possibly is now called Stir Crazy although we went to the top rather than rapping off. He and I originally thought that Lebrado Dome would reflect Tuolumne Meadows history. María Lebrado was Chief Tenaya’s granddaughter and apparently the last surviving member of her tribe. However, the alliteration of "Dozier Dome" was too attractive to the Tuolumne climbing group in the early 1970s, and this name made it into Tom Gerughty's binder and thence the subsequent guides. As Ed Hartouni relates, a few times I tried to describe the location of Lebrado Dome, only to get the "Oh, you mean Dozier Dome" response.

But now, forty years later, I like the name! It's not as grand as Salathé Wall, Reed Pinnacle, or Sacherer Cracker, but their importance to Yosemite climbing far exceeds mine. When people learn there is a dome in Tuolumne named after me, they treat me more respectfully, as least for a day or so. This is good.

When TM Herbert, Steve Thompson and I did Holdless Horror, from the approach the crack appeared to be smooth -- climbable but maybe difficult -- then we discovered there were holds inside the crack! TM said he always wanted to name a climb Holdless Horror and please could this be the one?
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Jul 17, 2010 - 03:19pm PT
really, Stately Pleasure is soooo much more convenient.
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