Dozier Dome

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bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 30, 2010 - 07:31pm PT
I know of all the easier 5.6/5.7 routes, The McTopo stuff. Does anybody have topos of the newer stuff (or older stuff)? I remember some 5.10 face climbs going up...

Photos work too!
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Jun 30, 2010 - 07:47pm PT
All choss. nothing to see there.
MisterE

Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
Jun 30, 2010 - 07:58pm PT
Greg Barnes has the info I think, as well as Minerals.

I got the 2nd ascent of "Tourettes" (5.10b?), left side with a 5.8 slab (1st pitch) approach to a nice ledge:

photo not found
Missing photo ID#162140
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 30, 2010 - 08:00pm PT
Thanks, Eric. Hopefully they'll chime in.
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Jun 30, 2010 - 08:24pm PT
Errett-Bit. Note the clip.
Errett-Bit. Note the clip.
Credit: John Bolte
Greg Barnes

climber
Jun 30, 2010 - 08:57pm PT
The left side is all covered in the new as-of-last-year Supertopo guidebook: http://www.supertopo.com/packs/tuolfree.html

Except the project right of Loud & Obnoxious (shown as "project" on the topo), which was completed last year. I don't have the details on it but it is 5.11a or 11b if I remember correctly.

But that whole left side of Dozier is pretty wet right now, it will be a bit before it dries out.
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Jun 30, 2010 - 09:03pm PT
2 climbers at the top of Errett Out

Tom Rogers at the top of p1 on Cheetos & Everclear...Holdless Horror is the obvious crack to the right.

Tom starting Plutonics
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Jun 30, 2010 - 09:11pm PT
like I said.
scooter

climber
fist clamp
Jun 30, 2010 - 10:38pm PT
Out of Gas 5.10 and theclimb just to its right, can't remeber the name are two of my favorite routes. Out of Gas has some of the coolest gold polish climbing I have done in the meadows. A touch run out. Tuolumne.

bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 30, 2010 - 11:26pm PT
Out of Gas has some of the coolest gold polish climbing I have done in the meadows. A touch run out. Tuolumne.

Yesssssssssssssssssss, this is what I was looking for,,,,,,more!!!!
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Jun 30, 2010 - 11:53pm PT
another shot of Plutonics

rwedgee

Ice climber
canyon country,CA
Jul 1, 2010 - 12:15am PT
Loud & Obnoxious is 10a and extremely bolted by Meadows standards. Everything there is "safe" as far as runouts go. Bolted anchors are nice when the clouds come in and it rains. You can bail w/o gear. Dozier's kind of our back up when the weather sucks.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jul 1, 2010 - 12:52am PT
maybe you've done this... but check out this site:

http://www.tuolumnemeadows.org

you can also obtain additional picture topos for some areas (like Dozier Dome)...

I met Jeff Dozier at the Sacherer Remembrance last May in the Valley. He recalled his attempts to name the dome after Chief Tenaya's daughter (the name escapes me now) but to no avail. He realized this once when he was discussing the place with another climber, some long time into the description of where this place was the other climber realized "Oh, you mean Dozier Dome."

Jeff's a great guy and he probably deserves a dome named after him, even if it's informal.
MisterE

Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
Jul 1, 2010 - 12:55am PT
Thanks for the reference, Ed - here's some bits of the history (if one trusts wikipedia):

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chief_Tenaya

and further:

http://www.yosemite.ca.us/library/yosemite_indians_and_other_sketches/indians.html
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
Jul 1, 2010 - 12:56am PT
Hey has any one seen Minerals or talked with him in the last 4 weeks? Just Curious?
Greg Barnes

climber
Jul 1, 2010 - 01:14am PT
Mark, he's heading back to Reno sometime soon, definitely by the weekend. I let him know the temp forecast for Reno yesterday, he didn't want to hit the storage unit when it's 95 degrees out...
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Jul 1, 2010 - 01:56am PT
mark - spent three days last week on the Minerals rehab tour... we didn't go to Dozier though, too chossy.
DrDeeg

Mountain climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Jul 17, 2010 - 03:08pm PT
Dozier Dome history:

I spent most of the summers of 1970-72 working on my PhD thesis -- on channel morphology in gravel bed streams, using the Dana Fork for the measurements. With a variety of partners (Eric Beck, Steve Thompson, TM Herbert, David Green, and my cousin Lance Dozier) I did many of the Dome's routes. I had put these into Tom Gerughty's binder, but there was just a single copy of the binder, so some route descriptions were lost. We placed no bolts.

Eric Beck and I did what possibly is now called Stir Crazy although we went to the top rather than rapping off. He and I originally thought that Lebrado Dome would reflect Tuolumne Meadows history. María Lebrado was Chief Tenaya’s granddaughter and apparently the last surviving member of her tribe. However, the alliteration of "Dozier Dome" was too attractive to the Tuolumne climbing group in the early 1970s, and this name made it into Tom Gerughty's binder and thence the subsequent guides. As Ed Hartouni relates, a few times I tried to describe the location of Lebrado Dome, only to get the "Oh, you mean Dozier Dome" response.

But now, forty years later, I like the name! It's not as grand as Salathé Wall, Reed Pinnacle, or Sacherer Cracker, but their importance to Yosemite climbing far exceeds mine. When people learn there is a dome in Tuolumne named after me, they treat me more respectfully, as least for a day or so. This is good.

When TM Herbert, Steve Thompson and I did Holdless Horror, from the approach the crack appeared to be smooth -- climbable but maybe difficult -- then we discovered there were holds inside the crack! TM said he always wanted to name a climb Holdless Horror and please could this be the one?
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Jul 17, 2010 - 03:19pm PT
really, Stately Pleasure is soooo much more convenient.
MisterE

Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
Jul 17, 2010 - 03:48pm PT
I am not sure why Way Dicey has it out for Dozier Dome on this thread, I like it just fine. It's also nice to get away from the road, and the hike through the forest to get there is enchanting, IMO.

Thanks for the story, DrDeeg!
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Jul 17, 2010 - 03:59pm PT
Psst, Hey, I think Wade Dicey may be pulling your leg.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 17, 2010 - 04:35pm PT
Cool Blitzo route...

Cheeseburgers and Beer, Dozier Dome
Cheeseburgers and Beer, Dozier Dome
Credit: bluering

Dr Deeg, thanks for chiming in!!!!!
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Jul 17, 2010 - 10:05pm PT
Psst...Dozier Dome totally sucks.
Seriously. long hike...develops trad climber calves. Nothing is overhanging...super slabby, giant knobs... way too easy for all you hard folk.
why bother when South Crack is right there?
Never mind the beer-chilling snow bank or the scenery..no parking within a mile of the crag.
What's up with that?
No 5.12's and you can barely hear the Harleys from up there.

sucks...

Stateley Pleasure Dome is the Sh#t, really...check it out.111!!!666.

edit; blue that ain't no Blitzo Route. ends on Blitzo's Balcony but...not that I'd hike all the way up there for knobby slab climbing..sucks..
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jul 17, 2010 - 10:11pm PT
Ah... Wade Icy, tongue firmly in cheek. Have to say though, dome climbing is my least favorite type of rock climbing. Maybe that's why I live in Colorado.
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Jul 17, 2010 - 10:21pm PT
D...Colorado is awesome...much rather climb there than Dozier Dome...Parking is way better in Boulder Canyon...and the Mexican food is way more convenient. Everyone knows Colorado is the place to be. Why be lamin' on Dozier when you can be sending the rads in Eldo...?

Ps: Jim-got room on your floor for a couple dozen Cali Slab stars?

PS- Jim What's your favorite type of climbing? Certainly not available on Dozier Dome! Might try Stately or The Knobs though.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 17, 2010 - 10:36pm PT
Wade and Jim have officially made my sh#t list.

Jim don't like Domes? WTF???


whatever, more domage for me, I guess....
Jay Wood

Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
Jul 17, 2010 - 10:49pm PT
Ursula. A variety of (thin) features. Left of the gold polish.
Credit: Jay Wood
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Jul 17, 2010 - 10:51pm PT
Blue..sounds like you need to move to Colorado111!!!666.

in the meantime...wanna go craggin @ the Castle? I teach/bend young minds to the radical left in Berkeley at night but days are free to avoid politics in the Coast Range...I think we agree that BEER is OK, Climbing is OK...Okay?


Ursula is an old school route...not as convenient as newer action..don't bother...sucks in that gold polished giant knobs too easy too be seen on sort of way...666111!!!
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jul 17, 2010 - 10:54pm PT
whatever, more domage for me, I guess....
As they say in one of my country's other official languages, c'est dommage - for the non-dome people. Somewhere I have some photos of Dozier - Minerals took me there a few years ago.
MisterE

Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
Jul 17, 2010 - 10:55pm PT
you can barely hear the Harleys from up there.

OK, I get it...LOL!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jul 17, 2010 - 11:04pm PT
I always have room for recovering dome addicts, and you won't have to sleep on the floor. I like climbing where the footholds are large enough for my size 12 feet.
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Jul 17, 2010 - 11:10pm PT
Thanks Jim..will our massive dome -sized calves fit?

Mighty has been there and can testify that Squamish slabs are far superior...and much more convenient.



Jim..see Golfer's Route @your peril.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 18, 2010 - 11:05am PT
Wade, e-mail me, loser, I'll show ya stuff around here in the Ghey Area....

serious!
kwit

climber
california
Jul 19, 2010 - 10:29pm PT
What is the best & most scenic descent off of Dozier? (Also least terrifying would be helpful, but I'll take scenic).
Captain...or Skully

Big Wall climber
Transporter Room 2
Jul 19, 2010 - 10:48pm PT
Aren't "scenic" & "terrifying" synonymous?
G_Gnome

Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
Jul 19, 2010 - 11:00pm PT
And do beware when it is damp. Back when the routes to do on Dozier were Ursula and Tune Up this was the descent of choice. Now days all the helmet people seem to rap back down those slabs with those huge knobs.


Anyone here led Tune Up? It's a damn site more interesting the Erete Out!!!
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Jul 20, 2010 - 12:57am PT
Bull Dozier
Bull Dozier
Credit: Mike Bolte
The kid (not The Kid) on his first 5.8 lead July 19, 2010. Che...
The kid (not The Kid) on his first 5.8 lead July 19, 2010. Cheeseburgers and Beer .
Credit: Mike Bolte

Bull Dozier is a fun crack (2nd crack right of Holdless Horror). Lots of finger- and hand-sized crack and a mandatory move of 5-inch off-width. On HH you can easily face climb around the wide sections.
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Jul 20, 2010 - 01:02am PT
MikeBolte: thanks for posting that photo of Bull Dozier...been meaning to do that route.
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Jul 20, 2010 - 01:02am PT
lookit all that snow! It'll be MONTHS before it's in. lots of skeets too...and solar radiation too...better to climb in a SPF 90 umbrella hat on the Great White Book...shady there..no snow...plenty of parking.
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Jul 20, 2010 - 01:05am PT
super high Radon levels too
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Jul 20, 2010 - 02:07am PT
hi tom -

Bull Dozier is nice. From the ground:

Bull Dozier
Bull Dozier
Credit: Mike Bolte

The climbing is mostly bomber fingers and hands. My son the gym climber liebacked the whole thing and thought it was hard...

Edit: Right Vic - my brain slipping I guess. I was thinking TT = Tom Higgins
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Jul 20, 2010 - 02:21am PT
Mike Bolte: looks alot like Holdless Horror
I'm not tom, I'm vic...were you thinking I was this guy?
MisterE

Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
Jul 20, 2010 - 02:41am PT
I on-sight free-soloed Cheeseburgers and Beer to get up to the ledge.

Easy, they said (from above) - except for the last bit...That's what I get for being the
lagger with no-one left below.

That one really scared me - but fortunately everyone was focused on Jersey-boy swearing his way up the next pitch as I pinched the nubbins through to greetings.
Minerals

Social climber
The Deli
Aug 9, 2010 - 12:16pm PT
“I like climbing where the footholds are large enough for my size 12 feet.”

No wonder modern rock climbing shoes SUCK!!!


E, you free-soloed Scandalous Summer (5.7), not Cheeseburgers and Beer (5.8).
Kalimon

Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
Aug 9, 2010 - 12:24pm PT
Ursula is an excellent route . . . I climbed it with uncle Mike Forkash BITD. A Tuolumne experience I'll never forget.
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Aug 9, 2010 - 12:42pm PT
total choss...dike route is much better.
Blitzo

Social climber
Earth
Aug 11, 2010 - 02:14am PT
"Holeless Whore" is a nice line.
Minerals

Social climber
The Deli
Oct 13, 2010 - 03:02pm PT
Just wanted to post a photo to clarify Dozier parking for those who may not know. The first edition of the Tuolumne SuperTopo lists Dozier parking as across from the Knobs bouldering area. The newer parking area is farther uphill (eastbound) and this is where the main Dozier trail starts. Please stick to the new Dozier trail so that we minimize impact along the approach. The old parking area may be more in line for those who top out and walk off of the dome, but it’s best to traverse along the base after topping out to head back to the main trail.

I don’t mean to “invite” more crowds; I just want climbers to stick to the main trail.

Thanks,

 Bryan



T = Tenaya Peak; P = Pywiack Dome

tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Oct 13, 2010 - 04:17pm PT
Tuolumne pioneer and Sierran granite pluton aficionado Bryan Law aka Minerals providing a belay for me on a line just to the right of Isostasy on Dozier. Photo courtesy Tom Rogers.



Here's Bryan at Reid Slab describing how Ladder Dikes form.

Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 13, 2010 - 04:19pm PT
Bryan does like his geology. A few years ago I spent a day with him at Dozier, and heard some interesting stuff about the formation of crystals and such. I think we did "Cheeseburgers and Beer" - Bryan? If so, the name is reminiscent of "Burgers and Fries" at Squamish's Little Smoke Bluffs. Great stomachs think alike.
HighTraverse

Social climber
Bay Area
Oct 13, 2010 - 07:11pm PT
Looks like Brian likes beer as a real time belayer refreshment!

Thanks to Brian Law, Greg Barnes, George Ridley and several others for putting some of the new routes up.
Thanks to minerals for correcting the parking for the correct approach.
CMac please take note.

BullDozier is a fun little route. I say little because the 3 pitches go pretty fast. I always love the walk off the backside. Way better than rapping unless you're in a hurry to do more.

Greg: thanks for the corrections. I was going from (faulty) memory.
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Oct 13, 2010 - 07:32pm PT
I recently did Cheeseburgers. Then from that ledge we did Tourettes, which was super fun. We were going to do one or more others up there but got snowed/rained off. Nice spot.
Greg Barnes

climber
Oct 13, 2010 - 08:07pm PT
Thanks for the photo Bryan, we should get that on all the Dozier dome route beta pages. Best to have one good trail.

High Traverse, I just belayed a couple times - never drilled a bolt on Dozier. Credit for left side routes in vague chronological order should be to Jeff Dozier & friends (of course!), Grant, John, Blitzo, George, Bryan, Dave Lane, and others...
looks easy from here

climber
Ben Lomond, CA
May 30, 2013 - 12:50am PT
Seems like a thread worth resurrecting with my question...

Anyone been out the way of Dozier Dome who can tell me the condition of the rock around Errett Out/Bit by Bit? The taco guide says that it tends to be "a waterfall of snowmelt early in the season", but I'm hoping that dry season=dry face.

Thanks in advance for any info.
Fluoride

Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
May 30, 2013 - 01:03am PT
Here's a pic from a week and a half ago. Left side still getting wet.

We went up last weekend but got sidelined by snow on the approach trail and just didn't want to deal with it, did something else instead. But a party came up behind us and ended up doing Holdless Horror and said it was fine (we ran into them at the Mobil during dinner).

The rap for Bulldozier is under some snow still.

Dozier Dome from Golfer's Route 5/18
Dozier Dome from Golfer's Route 5/18
Credit: Fluoride
looks easy from here

climber
Ben Lomond, CA
May 30, 2013 - 01:16am PT
Thanks for the awesome pic, Fluoride (even though it wasn't quite what I was hoping to see).

We're not going up for another week and a half, so I'll keep my fingers crossed that it dries out enough by then. I'll be sure to have a back-up plan, though, just in case.
Fluoride

Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
May 30, 2013 - 01:24am PT
No problem. The obvious hiking trail has snow on it so you just need to hike through looking towards the dome and make your own path.

Hiking off the Dome looked okay as the waterfall is still far from the rap area if descending but the snowfield on that side of the Dome looked solid still. Would just have to hike below it to get back to the base. That would just be for any routes you wanted to top off on though.
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