Chuck Clance appreciation Thread

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Fogarty

climber
BITD
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 19, 2010 - 05:32pm PT
Chuck top of Trapper Dome, Courtright 1998
Chuck top of Trapper Dome, Courtright 1998
Credit: Fogarty

Please feel free to share a story or a photo of clance, he is a real pioneer and friend and a person rich in character. I will post more photos and some classic escapades latter. Post away!
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Apr 19, 2010 - 06:42pm PT
First ascent of Skull Queen. Nice..
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Apr 19, 2010 - 07:29pm PT
Stylin on awahnee
Stylin on awahnee
Credit: mucci
Top of West Wall at the leap 05'
Top of West Wall at the leap 05'
Credit: mucci
FA of "Virginia"  Photo Credit: Steve Bosque
FA of "Virginia" Photo Credit: Steve Bosque
Credit: mucci

Chuck taught me how to climb. First day I met him he said "We will make a wall climber out of you real soon". He is always psyched anytime climbing is involved, and one of the most generous people I have met.

Hard as nails, and still crankin, not to mention some of the best stories I have ever heard.

With early ascents of Aurora(3rd), ZM (7th), Pacemaker (2nd), Aquarian (8th), Muir (8th), and Magic Mushroom (10th) He seemed to have gotten to many of the classics at just the right time.

Chuck has been a great partner, and a better friend over the years.


Cheers for Clancy!

Mucci
seth kovar

climber
Bay Area
Apr 19, 2010 - 07:38pm PT
Bump for Chuck!!!!!

Met him recently at Glenn Canyon Park in SF...

Ended up shooting the sh*# for over an hour and climbing close to none...

It was one of the best days I have had there...

Can't wait to take him up on his offer to take me around climbing...

Unfortunately, I lost his number, so until the next time I see you Chuck...

"Here's to you!!" *raising my can*


Fogarty

climber
BITD
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2010 - 09:17pm PT
Chuck pitcl 3 lost world october 2000
Chuck pitcl 3 lost world october 2000
Credit: Fogarty Collection


Same crux pitch 3 hooks and more!
Same crux pitch 3 hooks and more!
Credit: Fogarty
Fogarty

climber
BITD
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2010 - 10:50pm PT
Credit: Fogarty

WOW People, my old friend has what firts ascent on El Cap?

dustonian

climber
RRG
Apr 19, 2010 - 11:00pm PT
Oh yeah, the guy who retrobolted Aurora on a later ascent... way to go Chuck
nature

climber
Tucson, AZ
Apr 19, 2010 - 11:00pm PT
hmmm... Chuck was at a sushifest a while back, yeah?
Fogarty

climber
BITD
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2010 - 11:17pm PT
dustonian !!!

Tough Words, did you do one of the first 4 Ascents of Aurora?

Wow, Dorton and I fixed to pitch 3 for him and Troy, I find it hard to believe your retro bolt comment, Troy would of never aloud that!

Iím checking on you?

Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Apr 19, 2010 - 11:36pm PT
I met Chuck through some mutual friends.They taught me how to play Poker in the walk way between the old lounge and the lift shop.

Bemused grins at the mark they were ready to fleece, I said is this a good hand ? I think I just lost. Big laughs rose.

Jim, you just took the pot, and you didn't even know it was yours ! they screamed.

Chuck, If ever in Canada, email me or 'phone,[number's in the book] you're a fun guy to hang with and CT or PJO would make you feel at home.

From Squamish, you know who we are.
Maysho

climber
Soda Springs, CA
Apr 19, 2010 - 11:42pm PT
Here's to Clancy! Hope he is in good health!

Word at the time, and directly from him was not a big "retro-bolt" issue, but that he did drill some bat hook holes to get across the traverse on the crux pitch. The combination of "you should have seen how hard we partied with, oh yeah and we had to drill" was a bummer, but I got over it quickly. Few aid climbers get as physical as Greg did on that pitch, and someone would have drilled it sometime.

Chuck did a lot of hard routes, I think of him as a friend from BITD, and I'm glad to hear he is still getting out!

Peter
Loomis

climber
*_*
Apr 20, 2010 - 01:34am PT
Just got off the phone with Clance, he was in his usual good humor and was surprised about the thread.
He doesn't go online so he can't even lurk here.
"Dustonian" Clance ask if you have ever done Aurora and if not, for you to go up and lead all the
odd pitches. He had some other comments, but I will not post them here.
To everyone else, he sent a shout out and a big thanks.

Scott.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Apr 20, 2010 - 01:48am PT
Every route has grown holes, Peter has a good attitude about it IMHO.

Back then you didn't have a 800mm scope on you.



Enough with the old news, here is one for C
Credit: mucci

Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Apr 20, 2010 - 01:55am PT
Almost always appreciate Clancey.
shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
Apr 20, 2010 - 03:15am PT
chuck clance, great character, had a few beers with him in el cap meadow last fall...he had me going, just laughing so hard. i'm glad we are on the same team. shipoopster
Delhi Dog

Trad climber
Good Question...
Apr 20, 2010 - 07:03am PT
Wow, who let out that big hit while Clance was sleeping?
Mike.

climber
Apr 20, 2010 - 10:24am PT
Props to Clancey. One original wall rat.
wack-N-dangle

Gym climber
the ground up
Apr 20, 2010 - 11:38am PT
I ran into Chuck at the Leap and we climbed a couple of easy pitches. I regret not having the chance to take him up on his offer to show me around some of the bay area haunts. I respected the way he talked about other climbers and their accomplishments.

He definitely seemed to have some old school, aid climber cred. Ummmm, I meant free climber. If there was an old school, it seems like Chuck has been truant since then. He probably doesn't remember, but please tell him Brett from Santa Cruz says hi.

Viva la Chuck
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Apr 20, 2010 - 03:33pm PT
Credit: mucci
KitKat

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
Apr 20, 2010 - 04:46pm PT
Chuck is CLASSIC! I'd tell a story, but he's not on here to defend himself!
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