Chuck Clance appreciation Thread

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Fogarty

climber
BITD
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 19, 2010 - 05:32pm PT

Please feel free to share a story or a photo of clance, he is a real pioneer and friend and a person rich in character. I will post more photos and some classic escapades latter. Post away!
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Apr 19, 2010 - 06:42pm PT
First ascent of Skull Queen. Nice..
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Apr 19, 2010 - 07:29pm PT

Chuck taught me how to climb. First day I met him he said "We will make a wall climber out of you real soon". He is always psyched anytime climbing is involved, and one of the most generous people I have met.

Hard as nails, and still crankin, not to mention some of the best stories I have ever heard.

With early ascents of Aurora(3rd), ZM (7th), Pacemaker (2nd), Aquarian (8th), Muir (8th), and Magic Mushroom (10th) He seemed to have gotten to many of the classics at just the right time.

Chuck has been a great partner, and a better friend over the years.


Cheers for Clancy!

Mucci
seth kovar

climber
Bay Area
Apr 19, 2010 - 07:38pm PT
Bump for Chuck!!!!!

Met him recently at Glenn Canyon Park in SF...

Ended up shooting the sh*# for over an hour and climbing close to none...

It was one of the best days I have had there...

Can't wait to take him up on his offer to take me around climbing...

Unfortunately, I lost his number, so until the next time I see you Chuck...

"Here's to you!!" *raising my can*


Fogarty

climber
BITD
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2010 - 09:17pm PT


Fogarty

climber
BITD
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2010 - 10:50pm PT

WOW People, my old friend has what firts ascent on El Cap?

dustonian

climber
RRG
Apr 19, 2010 - 11:00pm PT
Oh yeah, the guy who retrobolted Aurora on a later ascent... way to go Chuck
nature

climber
Tucson, AZ
Apr 19, 2010 - 11:00pm PT
hmmm... Chuck was at a sushifest a while back, yeah?
Fogarty

climber
BITD
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2010 - 11:17pm PT
dustonian !!!

Tough Words, did you do one of the first 4 Ascents of Aurora?

Wow, Dorton and I fixed to pitch 3 for him and Troy, I find it hard to believe your retro bolt comment, Troy would of never aloud that!

Iím checking on you?

Maysho

climber
Soda Springs, CA
Apr 19, 2010 - 11:42pm PT
Here's to Clancy! Hope he is in good health!

Word at the time, and directly from him was not a big "retro-bolt" issue, but that he did drill some bat hook holes to get across the traverse on the crux pitch. The combination of "you should have seen how hard we partied with, oh yeah and we had to drill" was a bummer, but I got over it quickly. Few aid climbers get as physical as Greg did on that pitch, and someone would have drilled it sometime.

Chuck did a lot of hard routes, I think of him as a friend from BITD, and I'm glad to hear he is still getting out!

Peter
Loomis

climber
*_*
Apr 20, 2010 - 01:34am PT
Just got off the phone with Clance, he was in his usual good humor and was surprised about the thread.
He doesn't go online so he can't even lurk here.
"Dustonian" Clance ask if you have ever done Aurora and if not, for you to go up and lead all the
odd pitches. He had some other comments, but I will not post them here.
To everyone else, he sent a shout out and a big thanks.

Scott.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Apr 20, 2010 - 01:48am PT
Every route has grown holes, Peter has a good attitude about it IMHO.

Back then you didn't have a 800mm scope on you.



Enough with the old news, here is one for C

Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Apr 20, 2010 - 01:55am PT
Almost always appreciate Clancey.
shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
Apr 20, 2010 - 03:15am PT
chuck clance, great character, had a few beers with him in el cap meadow last fall...he had me going, just laughing so hard. i'm glad we are on the same team. shipoopster
Delhi Dog

Trad climber
Good Question...
Apr 20, 2010 - 07:03am PT
Wow, who let out that big hit while Clance was sleeping?
Mike.

climber
Apr 20, 2010 - 10:24am PT
Props to Clancey. One original wall rat.
wack-N-dangle

Gym climber
the ground up
Apr 20, 2010 - 11:38am PT
I ran into Chuck at the Leap and we climbed a couple of easy pitches. I regret not having the chance to take him up on his offer to show me around some of the bay area haunts. I respected the way he talked about other climbers and their accomplishments.

He definitely seemed to have some old school, aid climber cred. Ummmm, I meant free climber. If there was an old school, it seems like Chuck has been truant since then. He probably doesn't remember, but please tell him Brett from Santa Cruz says hi.

Viva la Chuck
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Apr 20, 2010 - 03:33pm PT
KitKat

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
Apr 20, 2010 - 04:46pm PT
Chuck is CLASSIC! I'd tell a story, but he's not on here to defend himself!
Loomis

climber
*_*
Apr 20, 2010 - 05:00pm PT
Hey, let the stories roll, have a few of my own to add here.
He will have a chance to defend : )
wack-N-dangle

Gym climber
the ground up
Apr 20, 2010 - 05:58pm PT
He mentioned something about falling on/grabbing a pillar on the way down. If I remember, he fractured a couple of ribs. He said that it seemed like a better option than decking on a ledge further below. I think he continued and finished the wall.

Wasn't there a story about a ghostbusters ascent of the trip?

The stories didn't sound like spray. Just a different generation of climbers.

bump for clancy
Fogarty

climber
BITD
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2010 - 08:09pm PT
Climbing mag July 2007 Reardon is on the cover,

I cant find my issue to post, Clance Pacemaker artical? can some one find it and post it?

MASTERS OF DISASTER
Party like itís 1983 on a water-blasted trip up the El Capitan horrorshow Pacemaker ó a 13-day saga that left a team of two climbers so malnourished their teeth loosened in the sockets.
By Chuck Clance ē Illustration by Keith Svihovec




Fogarty

climber
BITD
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2010 - 11:29pm PT
I'm very disappointed with this whole taco stand!

The lack of attention to this thread is killing me!

HOW MANY OF YOU YOUNG AND OLD SPRAYERS KNOW CHUCK AND JUST MOVE ON ALL THE NON CLIMBING TOPICS AND DON'T STEP UP AND TELL A GOOD OR UGLY STORY OF A
Old FRIEND OF OURS...
John_Box

Ice climber
Bellingham
Apr 20, 2010 - 11:56pm PT
If I had a scanner I would post that story up. Its a great one.
Mtnmun

Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
Apr 21, 2010 - 12:13am PT
This is pretty tame stuff compared to the stories I have heard about Clance. It seems the insiders are not willing to share. ;^)

lars johansen

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Apr 21, 2010 - 12:32am PT
Here It is in a nutshell:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=427292&msg=427292#msg427292

I've know Chuck for over 30 years. I could write a book on the guy, he's a force of nature. 'Nuff said

Cheers

lars
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Apr 21, 2010 - 12:39am PT
Yeah Mike, I just saw this thread and also wanted to chime in! Chuck was always way cool to me, and I always thought fondly of him! I haven't had the chance to see him in many, many, moons however and wondered that when you see him next, ask him if he remembers Michael Paul from rescue and such back in the '80's...Cheers!! Tusi...
Loomis

climber
*_*
Apr 21, 2010 - 12:42am PT
Watusi, Chuck and I spoke of you recently, of course he speaks well of you.
Enjoy, Scott
Petch

Gym climber
knapsack crack
Apr 21, 2010 - 01:02am PT
cheers to clancey!

one of the first characters I met at the leap. always good to see him and I know that he will be there soon!
chez

Social climber
chicago ill
Apr 21, 2010 - 02:16am PT
What unusual item Did Clance bring a on scullqueen? I stared at his hual bags for weeks.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Apr 21, 2010 - 04:59am PT
Whack- that fall was on ZM, 2 broken ribs (whillans harness), he said it was long enough he had time to "take it all in". The fall ruined the lead rope as it ran over a sharp edge. He said they were worried about being down to one lead line, and running out of copperheads, I think they brought 80+.

I am pretty sure the doll on SQ was Jeff Altenberg's, funny stuff though.

Here's one I wrote over on Mud n Crud a while back, Classic Clance!

Sometime in winter:

Left SF at around 9:00 pm on a sunday night, headed for the East side campground (before it was consumed by the Man). En route, my partner and I purchased the appropriate supplies and motored on through until we hit the park entrance. Heavy cloud cover and chilly temps greeted us as we made our way into the ominous hills finally reaching our destination, campsite #12.

A good fire was raised and we feasted on BBQ pork ribs and a healthy amount of Sierra Nevada. Throughout the evening we began to hear noises. Unholy noises that left one feeling as though the hills had plans for your comfy bivy on the ground.

I make it into the bag and then slide into the bivy sack, zip up and pass into a half sleep turning at every noise. Meanwhile, my partner who by this point was tending to the fire and drinking the cold away decided to have a party all to himself.

I feel a knock at the feet, pop the hood off the bivy sack and reached for the headlamp. Illumination reveals a horror I wish the majority of people on earth never experience. RACOONS! A full on platoon charging my bivy and running all over the camp like soldiers on stimulants. The partner is passed out next to the fire on a proper military cot sound asleep and snoring. I begin to scream like a child, panning the light in a frantic mode immediately astounded at my position. One beast had a block of Endo chalk between its maws and was chowing down like a rabid animal.

The screaming woke the partner up. As I made a serious effort to remove myself from my down straightjacket, one of the masked villians was charging at me with the fire smoldering behind it's shadow. I made a move, rolled into the fetal position, and awaited the worst.

They vanish as quick as they came. I never made it out of the sack during the attack. I felt relieved and began to inquire as to the mission of the bandits. My light makes it very clear the folly of our ways.

The partner had Fig newtons, oreo's, and Doritos all within immediate reach. He had no respone as to how the Newtons made it into, onto and inside my sleeping bag, and strewn around the camp. He had a full on Fig newton party, and in the process turned me into the bait.

I never hear the end of that one!






neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Apr 21, 2010 - 05:59am PT
hey there chuck, say, i may not know you, but one thing about "taco" news here, folks appreciate folks for very good, loyal and special reasons, and--climbing may be one of the highest honorable repspects paid, but FRIENDSHIP, is the tie, at the finish line, as well...

cheers to you, and your many friendships and honor to your climbs...

god bless... it is always fun to learn of more folks, here...


:)
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Apr 21, 2010 - 06:01am PT
hey there say, all.... oh my... and a bump,
for fogarty, too!

:)
Fogarty

climber
BITD
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2010 - 11:46pm PT
Chucks tribute to our late friend Virgina Parker.

El Cap, Virgina 5.9 A3+ FA: CHUCK CLANCE AND STEVE BOSQUE 7/92

Any comments on this 7 pitch variation to the trip.

I spoke with Chuck last night and read some of your post I think it maid his night.



Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Apr 22, 2010 - 12:03am PT
Mike, I remember Virginia well and hadn't known of her passing...God Bless and RIP Virginia, she was very cool...MP.
PS: Berg Heil Chuck!! You were and will always be the man!!
Fogarty

climber
BITD
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2010 - 12:50am PT
OT. VIRGINIA Parker friends Post up. on here life and the good!



People of that day tell us a story..

Maybe were not ready for this?
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Apr 23, 2010 - 01:27am PT
Wonder

climber
WA
Apr 23, 2010 - 02:15am PT
DUDE !!!


Tell him disco roy said do or die.
chez

Social climber
chicago ill
May 4, 2010 - 05:55pm PT
Wonder, Got any johnny Ekk, now that guy could move!
Fogarty

climber
BITD
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2010 - 11:20pm PT
I posted early on this and said I would copy Clance artical on the 2nd ascent of Pacemaker.Climbing NO.260 SEPTEMBER 2007 I hope you enjoy this epic TALE.


TOUGH TIMES NEVER LAST BUT TOUGH CLIMBERS DO!

pinckbrown

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
Dec 8, 2010 - 10:23am PT
I taught Chuck how to climb! (might have been a mistake - ha ha ha)
bringmedeath

climber
la la land
Dec 8, 2010 - 11:03am PT
Didn't Chuck take a huge whipper on Aurora? I seem to remember something about being totally wasted and going to get onto the next piece and he missed getting his foot in his aider and fell ripping tons of gear.
Fogarty

climber
BITD
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 8, 2010 - 01:26pm PT
bringmedeath
I will call Troy Johnson, he climbed that route in 1985 with Clance, hope to have somthing fun to post back to your question.
Mark Not-circlehead

climber
Martinez, CA
Dec 8, 2010 - 01:33pm PT
Drinkin' & Drillin!!

It's a shame Rich isn;t around anymore to tell his Clancy stories.

Doglips!!
joebuzz

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA.
Dec 8, 2010 - 03:47pm PT
Chuck was a friend of mine as well and used to stay at my place regularly in the 90's in Tahoe City before we would head to The Leap for a few days.
One thing that always impressed me was Chuck was pretty beat physically and not getting around very easily at a point but still wanted to climb. We were hiking up to Corrigation Corner and I seriously thought he might not even make it to the base of the climb? None the less, we did make it and as I was thinking we might even bail from somewhere low... Once Chuck was tied in, he just flowed effortlessly like he was a 5.13 climber fourth classing 5.7 terrain. I've lost his contact info but I do miss that guy. I heard he may be around San Francisco somewhere, where I also live now if anyone can hook us up again.
Hey does anyone here know a guy named Fidencio Salazar(nickname: JR)? He's the guy that introduced me to Chuck and was also a Valley staple back in the day. I'd really dig getting back in touch with him too.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Dec 8, 2010 - 04:05pm PT
Didn't he have an incident in that "Favorite spot" last spring? Is he okay from that?
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Dec 8, 2010 - 04:38pm PT
Saw chuck at the Leap Oct 1. Drank a beer with him in the rain in the lot. He's doing ok, still in SF.
nature

climber
Tuscon Again! India! India! Hawaii! LA?!?!
Dec 8, 2010 - 04:42pm PT
Chuck made it to one of the SushiFests. I forgot which one but I do recall he was a blast to have there....
chez

Social climber
chicago ill
Dec 8, 2010 - 10:16pm PT
fogerty,
Does Troy remember anything nowadays? Especially old stuff. Would love to get in touch with him.
I remember the tron brother days.
chez

Social climber
chicago ill
Dec 8, 2010 - 10:18pm PT
I remember Lips too. When he lived under the clinic. The last time i saw him he wanted me to take photos of him climbing for his mom, i never got the chance.
Captain...or Skully

Big Wall climber
leading the away team, but not in a red shirt!
Dec 8, 2010 - 10:37pm PT
Pretty firmly Pro-Clance.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Dec 9, 2010 - 12:09am PT
WOW nice to see clancy on the front page..

I talked to troy about a month ago, doing good and still crackin jokes!

In regards to the 3rd ascent of Aurora, Clance told Peter he drilled hooks on his route, they seem to have settled it.

I have gotton tons of mileage with Chuck, I consider him one of my best friends as I have said before. Dude is classic.

Looking forward to hanging with him in Josh.

Chez PM me and I can get you in touch with Troy.
Mucci

seth kovar

climber
Reno, NV
Dec 11, 2010 - 02:35am PT
Bump
Merilyn Scott,Clance

climber
Phoenix,AZ
Dec 30, 2010 - 11:25am PT
how is Clancy? an old friend wants to know, 480 840 6760
Fogarty

climber
BITD
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2011 - 12:52am PT
A Chuck BUMP, he is now spending time on the east side enjoying life.
Captain...or Skully

climber
or some such
Aug 2, 2011 - 06:12pm PT
CLANCE!!!6!!
Dig it.
JohnRoe

Trad climber
State College, PA
Aug 2, 2011 - 08:16pm PT
ran into him in J Tree a couple of months ago, good to talk. nice to see the thread.
climbrunride

Ice climber
Purgatory, CO
Aug 2, 2011 - 08:23pm PT
Wow, just found this thread. I have lots of Crazy Chuck pics and stories. I'll post up more later, but here he is at the J-Tree SushiFest a few years ago:

Aerili

climber
Reno, NV
Aug 3, 2011 - 02:52am PT
Chuck on his first day out this season, 2011. He kept telling me he's going to give it up and surf full time instead.

climbrunride

Ice climber
Sailing Hawks Boulders, CO
Aug 3, 2011 - 04:16pm PT


And a Chuck story:

We were up at Calavares Dome for a few days and partied pretty hard one night. Chuck was, of course, very hung over the next morning. Still, he somehow made it up to the base of Old Smokey (5.9?, 5p?). I really thought he was either going to die on the way, or bail, because he looked, and sounded, so sick. But he soldiered on and made it.

The first pitch was wet through its crux, and I really did not want to fall, pull out my crappy nut and land on the broken ankle breakers below me. Chuck assured me that he'd been hurt much worse than I might get, many times. Without a good excuse then, I just went ahead and climbed through the slippery slime. It was really not too bad once it was over.

As we worked our way up the climb, I was having more and more fun, but Chuck was looking worse and worse, which culminated on the final pitch. He was keeping a fine pace, but I always thought he would have to retreat. At the top, I was on a small ledge and could not see him following. But I heard him. Have you ever heard a cat working up a hairball? That's what Chuck sounded like. He would make a couple moves, then heave for a minute, then climb some more. The closer he got, the worse it got. Until he was only about 20 feet down and I heard him letting loose the poison from his belly. And all I could do was to yell down at him, "DON'T PUKE ON MY NEW ROPE!"

He finally finished puking and climbed up to me. He confidently blamed his illness on the communists, cursed them, congratulated me on a good lead and was ready to move on with the day.
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Jan 22, 2012 - 10:11pm PT
Chuck is an awesome guy.
unique as hell.
wholesome.
stout courage as evidenced by his el cap travels,
super modest.
giving: he'd give his last beer to you,
and then run to town and buy everyone more.

funny and good for some show stopping stories.

a hell of a guy,

hey chuck i picked up this bitchen chick hitch hiking on
395, we rode about 3 hours together. your name
came up and i was telling her about our time
in j-tree. she was, uh, interested
so she gave me her p.o. box, she lives
in a little town within biking distance of
lone pine. i'll forward it on to you,
clance. whether you read this or not.

Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Feb 1, 2012 - 04:25pm PT
chuckie!
my wife threw away the hitchikers info,
she thought her love noet was for me!

"bitch lesbian!"
Jim Clipper

climber
from: forests to tree farms
Feb 5, 2012 - 02:51pm PT
I heard a story... He made a rescue somewhere off of S.F. I remember that he was a lifequard. Subsequently, he got chewed out by his "boss" for entering the water in unsafe conditions.

In a decent swell, the longshore currents must make for an interesting time inside. Near the rocks or cliffs, I don't want to imagine. If he is serious about hanging up climbing (for a while), please invite him down to Santa Cruz. He is welcome to stay for a bit.

aloha nui ...
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
May 24, 2012 - 11:26pm PT
currently drinking down at
the strawverry bar.

mr chuck clance is perched down down the way,
and we share some drinks,
and he tells me the real story of life.

i've so much respect for mr. clance.
on his el cap endeavors,
on his life endeavors,
on his father hood endeavors.

if ever you meet the man,
look into his eyes and you'll
see sparks.
Russ Walling

Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
May 24, 2012 - 11:28pm PT
Hey Weeg! Are you talking about now, as in right now, in the Strawberry Bar?
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
May 24, 2012 - 11:33pm PT
russ,
yes sir,
simon and young and garf are harmonizing on the box
i've wristed an ale,
chuck clance is next to me.

i've chalk on my fingers,
fear in my heart
and hope on my horizons.

it is all real,
right now.

except me.
im make believe.
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
May 24, 2012 - 11:38pm PT
virginia.
named after some girl.

chuck's route.
Russ Walling

Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
May 24, 2012 - 11:44pm PT
weeg... call me right now....

760 xxxxxxxx

Edit: DAMN! I just called the bar and she picked up the phone as you guys were walking out! I was going to buy a round for the Chuck squared! Maybe next time lads!
photonez

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Oct 19, 2012 - 06:23pm PT
I met Chuck this summer at the TM store, he was looking for a partner. His note on the TM store board was hilarious. "Looking for a partner, 20 El Cap routes. Women climbers excepted, especially women climbers." Maybe not an exact quote but something to that effect.
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Oct 20, 2012 - 01:20am PT
mucci!
we really should re-enact the past.

get chuckie down south,
we'll toss gravities
and gravities will
punchline us.

newyears plans?
come on!
be fun.
pinckbrown

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
Feb 25, 2014 - 05:58pm PT
You guys are not going to believe this! I taught Chuck Clance how to climb!
We first climbed at Gibralter Rock in Santa Barbara. I could shake stories out of my sleeves about the great times we had. When we climbed El Cap (nose), in 1985, we had only done 1 grade 4 in the valley. When I hear the "party hardy" stories, I just shake my head. You should have seen how hard we partyed back we we were young!
Bob Pinckney
Captain...or Skully

climber
Feb 25, 2014 - 08:19pm PT
WooHoo!!

Diggin' it.
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
Feb 25, 2014 - 09:01pm PT
i owe mr. clance a wizard cap.

mucci you got ties?

the dude is off the radar.
his address roams.
some of the year it's twin bridges.
SCseagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Feb 25, 2014 - 09:05pm PT
Ran into him this summer in Tuloumne
Don't need no stink in' harness

Susan
Fogarty

climber
BITD
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2014 - 09:13pm PT
Chuck just called me, he is at the Alabama Hills for a few days. Late March or early April he coming to Josh and the low desert to stay with me. FYI he doing well and drinking less.

Cheers, MF
pinckbrown

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
Feb 25, 2014 - 11:56pm PT
I found this photo of Chuck on his 1st El Cap climb.
Bob PinckneyCamp 4 I think
Fogarty

climber
BITD
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2014 - 12:18am PT
Bob great photo, I will make sure Chuck gets a look. This is one great thing about supertopo, the reuniting and share of old friends.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Feb 26, 2014 - 02:23am PT
Holy sh#t bob! Awesome shot!

Clance is my hero.
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Feb 26, 2014 - 01:26pm PT
This thread is awesome! Don't know him....never heard of him and wouldn't know him unless this thread. That last pic is priceless. Why I still look here. Threads like this should have a thousand posts. Friends, history. The best....
Fogarty

climber
BITD
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2014 - 10:45pm PT

Living the dream:)
Chris Cunningham

Trad climber
San Francisco
Feb 27, 2014 - 12:04am PT
Chuck and I had a great climb just the other day in Glen Canyon. He is an inspiration and a stern warning, all in one.
Mtnmun

Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
Feb 27, 2014 - 12:11am PT
He sleeps in the drivers seat of his car, fully upright. I believe there are two of him as I see him in the craziest places. He is a classic that Chuck.
Chris Cunningham

Trad climber
San Francisco
Feb 27, 2014 - 12:17am PT
Chuck can sleep at a belay; fully upright too!!
Topher Johnston

climber
California
Jun 17, 2014 - 11:13am PT
Thanks for all the climbs so far.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Jun 17, 2014 - 11:28am PT
Chris, you're probably right about the warning.

Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
Aug 21, 2014 - 07:14pm PT
i ran into chuck at the strawberry market this afternoon.
he was ordering a new harness.

he's still out climbing the stone, often as he can.

he indicated that he is well.

chance clance run-ins are always the best.

mucci. we need to talk.
pinckbrown

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
Sep 15, 2014 - 09:36am PT
Fogarty - I am having all my old climbing slides digitized! Expensive, but worth it. I will post up in the next few months with more great pictures of Chuck!

Am still climbing regulary, Leap, Woodfords Canyon, & unknown, secret places that Rick Sumner takes me to!

Here are 3 more photos in the meantime
pinckbrown

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
Sep 15, 2014 - 05:06pm PT
a close up shot of Chuck
pinckbrown

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
Sep 15, 2014 - 05:09pm PT
Chuck Clance & Dave Yerian
pinckbrown

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
Sep 15, 2014 - 05:12pm PT
Chuck jumaring up from Lost Arrow notch
pinckbrown

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
Nov 1, 2014 - 06:43am PT
Chuck on The Nose, 1975.
.
pinckbrown

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
Nov 1, 2014 - 06:46am PT
Chuck on The King Swing, 1975
.
pinckbrown

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
Nov 1, 2014 - 07:01am PT
Chuck Clance, The Nose, August 1975.
.

We spent 7 nights on the wall & a night on top. We had 8 gals of water.
2 parties passed us and then later bailed. We gave them water. We had
never done a Grade V, & only 2 Grade IV's.
We also took a day off at El Cap Tower with our friend Jack. I think the
failure rate was 90% BITD
lars johansen

Trad climber
West Marin, CA
Nov 1, 2014 - 07:54am PT
Classic Chuck pics Bob, thanks.
lars
Fogarty

climber
BITD
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2014 - 08:31am PT
Bob, classic photos of Chuck. I spoke with him Friday. He was on his way to the valley with Troy Johnson. I spoke with Troy, he is psyched to visit with family and friends. Hope some of you meet up with them, probably at the bar.
SC seagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, or In What Time Zone Am I?
Nov 1, 2014 - 09:00am PT
Ran into Chuck up in Tuloumne last summer.
He didn't have a harness with him so we just swami-ed him up.
Of course he had a beer in his hand!

Susan
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Nov 1, 2014 - 01:35pm PT
Hero
Fogarty

climber
BITD
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2014 - 07:48pm PT
Chuck and Troy are at the Losge, Clance is buying drinks..
underdutchskies

Social climber
Merced
May 31, 2015 - 05:00am PT
Does anyone know how I can get in touch with Chuck? I think I have a book that belonged to him. I found it in Yosemite some time in 1976 and it's been in a box since then and I just recently re-found it. I had no idea who "C. Clance" was. There are many climbs with dates hand written in the back of the book.
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
May 31, 2015 - 08:51am PT
sir clance usually rolls into
my town, strawberry, around
this square on the calendar.

i'll let him know that you
got his goods.

[Click to View YouTube Video]
Fogarty

climber
BITD
Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2015 - 09:06am PT
underdutchskies

I sent you an email, I will be seeing him in the next few weeks.
Clance @The Alabama Hills
underdutchskies

Social climber
Merced
Jun 1, 2015 - 05:46am PT
Norwegian - thanks.
Fogarty - I didn't get your email.....

Guys - I'll be in CA in early September and would love to return this book in person, if Clance is agreeable to that.

And to trigger memory, here's one of the back pages....

pinckbrown

Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
Jun 1, 2015 - 06:57am PT
Every single one of those climbs mentioned, I was
Chucks partner.
Fogarty is your best connection to Chuck at this time.
J Wesley

climber
Baton Rouge
Jun 1, 2015 - 07:00am PT
Trying to locate Chuck. My cousin found a climbers guide to Yosemite in 1976 and she forgot she had it.
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
Jun 1, 2015 - 07:31am PT
I was talking to Chuck in his Genghis Khan suit
And his wizards hat
He spoke of his movie and how he was making
A new sound track


And then we spoke of kids on the coast
And different types of organic soap
And the way suicides don't leave notes
Then we spoke of Lorraine, always back to Lorraine


I was speaking to Phil who was given to pills
And small racing cars
He had given them up since his last crack-up
Had carried him too far


Then we spoke of the movies and verse
And the way an actress held her purse
And the way life at times can get worse
Then we spoke of Lorraine, always back to Lorraine


Ah, she's a wild child
And nobody can get at her
She's a wild child
Oh and nobody can get to her


Sleeping out on the street
Oh, living all alone without a house or a home
And then she asked you, Please
Hey, baby, can I have some spare change
Oh, can I break your heart?


She's a wild child, she's a wild child


I was talking to Betty about her auditions
How they made her ill
But life is the theater, is certainly fraught
With many spills and chills


But she'd come down after some wine
Which is what happens most of the time
Then we sat and both spoke in rhymes
Till we spoke of Lorraine, always back to Lorraine


I was talking to Ed who'd been reported dead
By mutual friends
He thought it was funny that I had no money
To spend on him


So, we both shared a piece of sweet cheese
And sang of our lives and our dreams
And how things can come apart at the seams
And we talk of Lorraine, always back to Lorraine


She's a wild child
Oh and nobody can get at her
She's a wild child
Oh and nobody can get to her


Sleeping out on the street
Oh, living all alone without a house or a home
And then she asked you, Please
Oh, baby, can I have some spare change
Now can I break your heart?"


She's a wild child, she's a wild child

-lou reed

[Click to View YouTube Video]
Cancer Boy

Trad climber
Freedonia
Jun 1, 2015 - 05:30pm PT
At the base of El Cap in the early eighties, the funniest person I have met in my life told a story about barfing himself while leading some female climber up La Cosita Left. Now I know who he was.
Jim Clipper

climber
from: forests to tree farms
Jun 1, 2015 - 07:22pm PT
Just wanted to say that I'm a fan of the Clancy.
Fogarty

climber
BITD
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2015 - 11:42am PT
Underfurdutchskies
I just spoke with Chuck, he would appreciate your mailing me his book,
To: Mike Fogarty
80590 Via Talaver
La Quinta, Ca 92253
760-260-6975
Email: mfogs@aol.com
You can send COD if you want.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Jun 2, 2015 - 12:06pm PT
Chuck gave me his Reid bigwall book.

Looks the same as the one above, all the climbs listed with partner and duration etc..

Except all of the El cap routes were early ascents, and a cool glimpse into that era of climbing.

Mescalito speed record ascent with 2 germans....5 days.

Pre cams of course..
Fogarty

climber
BITD
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 6, 2015 - 09:46pm PT
are you send his guide book to me he would appreciate it, I sent you an email?
KitKat

Trad climber
Strawberry
Jun 8, 2015 - 05:56pm PT
Hanging with Chuck at the Leap right now!
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Aug 3, 2015 - 09:21pm PT
Their whoot whoot s
&

bump for the big guy,

dang sleeping in the drivers seat seems the least of things to mention.
Unless he was driving. . . ;)
Fogarty

climber
BITD
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 6, 2015 - 04:07pm PT

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2015 - 11:42am PT
Underfurdutchskies
I just spoke with Chuck, he would appreciate your mailing me his book,
To: Mike Fogarty
80590 Via Talaver
La Quinta, Ca 92253
760-260-6975
Email: mfogs@aol.com
You can send COD if you want.

I just sent you an email, he wants you to send me his book, I will send you the postage, I will be driving to NCal, Aug 14, it would be great if you could send it to me ?
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
Aug 6, 2015 - 04:33pm PT
just last weekend i shared
an ale with clance
at the strawberry market.

he looks great
and is quite astute.
he was actually drinking
ginger ale, but who's counting?

right now he's broke down
in vacaville with a blown tranny.

i didn't know they had those
in vacaville.
fosburg

climber
Aug 6, 2015 - 05:08pm PT
Anyone who sees Chuck Clance, please tell him Kevin Fosburg sends his best regards.
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
Aug 30, 2015 - 09:38pm PT
chuckie and i just shared
some evil that we dared not fear
at lovers leap.

outstanding gent,oh man,
did you ever hear the
one about the 80' leader
fall he took on
the sixth ascent of
zenyatta?

mostly destroyed
the lead rope!
hair raising tales.

i got the goods, g.
pmonks

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
May 11, 2017 - 09:17pm PT
Bump.

A big "g'day" to Chuck if anyone here's in touch with him - hope he's still traveling well!

I was just reminded of him by a mutual Glen Canyon (SF) mate, and having not seen him there for a few years was happy to read that he's still out there getting after it (well, as of 2 years ago - hope it's been 2 years of the same for him!).
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
May 12, 2017 - 06:29am PT
Hooray for the Clancy! Gawd, he could crack me up. Way, way, way back in the day, a few of us were walking from the restroom at the Strawberry Lodge at the Leap down that narrow hallway on our way towards the main sitting room. A cute young woman is walking towards us, headed for the restroom. We step aside to let her by.

Clancy fires: "I wouldn't make contact with that toilet seat if I were you!"

Classic. Climb on, old friend.

BAd
klaus

Big Wall climber
Florence & Normandy
Jun 1, 2017 - 05:48pm PT
I heard he passed. RIP old buddy
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Jun 1, 2017 - 06:36pm PT
Holy sh#t Klaus... you sure? Dude was/is a classic.
klaus

Big Wall climber
Florence & Normandy
Jun 1, 2017 - 06:55pm PT
well I don't think they were talking about passing a sobriety test.
SC seagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, A sailboat, or some time zone
Jun 1, 2017 - 07:06pm PT
Very sad. Michael and I ran into him a few years ago in Tuloumne.
He climbed with us that afternoon.
He had no harness (but had a beer) so we swamied him up.


Susan
Mike.

climber
Jun 1, 2017 - 07:38pm PT
Another man down. Condolence to all who knew him. He left some nice routes for us.
David Knopp

Trad climber
CA
Jun 1, 2017 - 07:45pm PT
oh no. working in a gear shop, chuck was always a favored customer. we gave him whatever he wanted as long as he talked sh#t with us. what a sweet guy.
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Jun 1, 2017 - 08:39pm PT
well I don't think they were talking about passing a sobriety test.

Damn... I still use his line: "My body is not a temple..."
Petch

Gym climber
knapsack crack
Jun 1, 2017 - 09:56pm PT
I hope this is not true. Saw him last fall and he was moving to Thailand.

Studly

Trad climber
WA
Jun 2, 2017 - 07:50pm PT
Salute!
Jim Clipper

climber
from: forests to tree farms
Jun 3, 2017 - 11:04am PT
Say it ain't so! Chuck deserves the front page. Truly hope it is just some hard earned slander that his life's work deserves.
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
Jun 3, 2017 - 06:48pm PT
Any way to confirm this? Klaus, what was your source? I saw him a couple of years ago at the Leap. He seemed to be climbing reasonably well.

BAd
Chris Cunningham

Trad climber
San Francisco
Jun 3, 2017 - 09:43pm PT
Just because you have not seen Chuck in a while does not mean he is dead.
He moved to Thailand last September.
Just before he left America; Chuck and I got a couple of roped climbs in. He was doing much better and we had a great time. I snuck a couple of pictures and a video of him climbing. His footwork still is amazing.

Where and what is the source of this news?
klaus

Big Wall climber
Florence & Normandy
Jun 3, 2017 - 09:48pm PT
Sorry I brought it up. I don't think we are supposed to know. Just forget I said anything. Carry on peoples, see you in the next world.
Chris Cunningham

Trad climber
San Francisco
Jun 3, 2017 - 09:57pm PT
I just tried calling Chuck; his phone account is still active.
Fogarty

climber
BITD
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 3, 2017 - 10:18pm PT
I left his son Kevin a message? He was living in Thailand, he has not called me in about 6 months?
klaus

Big Wall climber
Florence & Normandy
Jun 3, 2017 - 10:21pm PT
Just tried calling him. Number has been disconnected
BLUEBLOCR

Social climber
joshua tree
Jun 4, 2017 - 07:18am PT
WTF⁉️

Mike can you confirm this❓
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jun 4, 2017 - 07:51am PT
Hoping it's not true and wishing him the best!


But frankly I don't know how he survived this far!
Fogarty

climber
BITD
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2017 - 05:17pm PT
Jim Clipper

climber
from: forests to tree farms
Jun 9, 2017 - 10:58am PT
Get that Comey off the front page. Comey ain't got nothing on the Clance.

Only a brief meeting, but there seemed to be no pretense. Should have made an effort to know more.

[Click to View YouTube Video]

And only because he would probably hate it.

[Click to View YouTube Video]

More better
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=chV3yF_nNss
Fogarty

climber
BITD
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2017 - 08:36pm PT
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Jun 14, 2017 - 08:48pm PT
So did Clance croak or what??
WBraun

climber
Jun 14, 2017 - 08:55pm PT
So did Clance croak or what??

According to modern science, "NO ONE KNOWS"

Until the labcoats look it up in their beakers and slide rools .......

rottingjohnny

Sport climber
Sands Motel , Las Vegas
Jun 14, 2017 - 08:58pm PT
LMAO...No one knows...I hope he's still around...
Fogarty

climber
BITD
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2017 - 09:18pm PT
Rip, my old friend, it is sad and true☺️
Petch

Gym climber
knapsack crack
Jun 14, 2017 - 09:59pm PT
Bummer.

Cheers my friend 🍻
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Jun 14, 2017 - 10:05pm PT
Well that sucks... we're running out of them sorta guys. RIP to Clance. Damn...
BLUEBLOCR

Social climber
joshua tree
Jun 14, 2017 - 10:33pm PT
Wow...OW! i'm more than FUCING dislodged

mike whats ur number gimmie a call
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
Jun 15, 2017 - 06:44am PT
Wow. Adios, amigo. I was glad that our paths crossed. My life is better for having met you. Climb on, brother. The granite will be excellent, the pro bomber, the skies blue and clear.

BAd
shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
Jun 15, 2017 - 09:13am PT
that's a bummer, it was always good to see clance at the crags of yosemite and josh. rip brother, steve
CA Dreamin'

climber
Jun 15, 2017 - 10:58am PT
I'm sorry to hear of Chuck's passing. I have a couple of Chuck Clance stories that leave a wry grin on my face. Hopefully it will bring a little smile to those missing their friend.

I was a young college kid at UC Davis, getting in to climbing in the early 2000's when my friend and partner met Chuck. Chuck somehow ended up in my buddy's car on our way to the Phantom Spires. No big deal, I thought. The more the merrier. On the drive, Chuck regaled us with stories from Yosemite's yesteryear, when the climbers were "out there," in more ways than one. It seemed like Chuck was still in those yesteryear's on this day. He stumbled and bumbled his way from the parking lot to the Spires, and I was slightly alarmed if Chuck would make it through the day.

Well, my buddy and Chuck do some warm up climb on Middle Spire. Chuck's climbing was impressive given the epic trek from the car to the crag. Now, a fella and his woman friend were at the base, when my friend let them know the rope was coming down for their rap. He proceeded to lower the rope - not throw it - for their rap. It was standard operating procedure. It was even courteous to lower the rope, and it shouldn't have been a big deal. It turned into a big deal. Maybe the proximity of the rope disturbed this guy's chi, broke his bliss, and maybe he wanted to impress his lady friend, and he launched into my friend and Chuck for what he felt was their incompetent rappel behavior. And he wouldn't stop. I'm standing at the pack when Chuck walks over, unzips the lid, pulls out his gun, and in a barely audible stammer, mutters "we can settle this now if you want." Without seeing the gun, the guy dropped his rant, the gun went back in to the pack, and I breathed a sigh of relief as if I had just clipped a bolt after a long run out. As the innocent, blond haired, blue eyed, Christian church boy, this rocked my world. Chuck belayed me on my first 5.9 lead that day. While still being that blond haired, blue eyed, Christian guy years later, I'm drastically less innocent and more world aware - likely a good thing - partially thanks to Chuck.

As a quick post-script to that story, I ran in to Chuck twice in the years following, once at the Leap and once in Tuolumne. He remembered me and was gracious, engaging, and friendly in each experience. At the Leap, I was encouraged that Chuck appeared to be doing well. He had a different aura about him that day. The experience five years ago in Tuolumnne makes me laugh. I was with my friends, Erik and Megan. Megan is a truly beautiful person, inside and out. Unsurprisingly, Chuck saw this and dropped the good-old "let's go climb Cathedral Peak today!" line on Megan. I can't help but wonder and laugh at how many times that line has been used on women in the Meadows? She was a good sport, laughed with Chuck, and politely informed him she was committed to climbing with Erik and I. Chuck smiled and we went about our day.

In a world of conformity, Chuck is a unique soul.
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
Jun 15, 2017 - 12:55pm PT
Great story, CA Dreamin'.

Rumor has it that, back in the day when he was working as a life guard/paramedic at the beach, he used a wood burning device to inscribe this on the back of one of the rescue boats:

"Kneelin', feelin', buns up and squealin'"

I don't think it went over well with his boss....

Carry on, wayward son.

BAd
pinckbrown

Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
Jun 15, 2017 - 04:44pm PT
RIP Chuck
I'm the one that introduced Chuck to climbing. We
climbed all the free time we had. For years and years.
Finally worked up the gumption to climb El Cap.
We hadn't even done a Grade IV. 90 % failure
rate at the time. 100 lb haul bag. 8 gal water.
No concept of quitting, to scared to rappel that
far. New Edelrid 2-3 fall 11 mil rope. 8 days
later we topped out. Flipped leads all the way.

I will never forget Chuck for as long as I live

Bob Pinckney
klaus

Big Wall climber
Florence & Normandy
Jun 15, 2017 - 06:32pm PT
A couple of Clance stories:

The Ghostbusters ascent of Tangerine Trip with Troy Johnson was in 1985 not '84. The premise behind it was that Carol Moyer had died on it some time before this on the solo while cleaning the infamous pitch 4 when her ascenders somehow became unattached from the rope (she was not tied to the end). She fell to the ground, and according to Chuck he saw a coyote eating her brains. Hence the Ghostbusters T-Shirts to prevent the ghost of Carol from haunting them during their ascent.

He invited me to a "base party" they were having on the night before they were to commit to the route. At the car he asked me to carry some of his gear for him, I said sure. He gave me a blue Forrest haulbag with no waist belt and 50 pounds of pitons in it. As soon as we left the car he stumbled into the ditch next to the road and passed out, likely from a mixture of pills and beer he had been consuming all day. He would not get up so I threw the haulbag down next to him figuring "fukc this" and left him on his own while I went up to the Party. Troy said "where is Clance?" I said he decided to sleep in the ditch by the road. The party was fun.

They somehow made it up the route without getting arrested. When they got back down Clance confided in me that he indeed saw the ghost of Carol on the route. She molested him one night in his portaledge and he knew it was for real because he sprayed semen in his sleeping bag.


Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Jun 15, 2017 - 06:53pm PT
^^^^^

Damn!!!! Sounds about right.

A couple of tweaks... Carol was climbing with a friend of the Pocket Russian (not solo) and he was up at the belay while she was jugging and subsequently pitching. As for the coyote part, it could be true as not "everything" was found and recovered. I was on that one.

Most Clance stories can't be told... but...

He got super ripped one night and crawled into the wrong tent. This tent contained two girls that were sleeping... they kicked his ass inside the tent and he eventually fled. Cops nab him and his fresh shiner the next day, due to his wallet falling out in the tent during the scuffle. He claimed they attacked him or that it was not him but a guy that stole his wallet or some such lame story. He might have got the orange suit for that one.
klaus

Big Wall climber
Florence & Normandy
Jun 15, 2017 - 07:09pm PT
Later that year, 1985, I met Clane at Glen Park in SF to do some "bouldering". I was 19 years old. He said we had to get beer first. Sounded good to me. We arrived at the rocks in the canyon. He put on his Fire's and chalkbag and cracked open a beer. I had already had one on the hike in and was climbing.

He chalked up, sipped his beer, and launched into a nasty tirade against the many perceived slights he suffered from the women in his life. According to Clance all women were evil and will destroy your life. Except for Hookers who were OK because you knew what you were paying for. And in the end you WILL pay, Hooker or not. He continued with the misogynist rant until we were out of beer. He then smashed a bottle on the rocks at the base and declared that we were done bouldering. He never even got off the ground.
klaus

Big Wall climber
Florence & Normandy
Jun 15, 2017 - 07:13pm PT
I have better Clance stories but they can't be put in print.
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Jun 15, 2017 - 07:17pm PT
Yeah... that is the curse of being a legendary character. The road to legend is rarely fit to print.

I have a fave and will try to word it up later. Classic Clance including slurs, liquor, scared teens and a guy who looked sorta Middle Eastern throwing a rage fit at the base of El Cap, complete with violent threats. Good thing Clance was not packing back then or there would have been blood spilled me thinks. Wild times in the life of a wild man... He'll be missed by many.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Jun 15, 2017 - 07:25pm PT
Dude was bitchin, I was very sad to hear he passed.

Oh I got some more modern stories.....


"Bitch lesbian!"

rottingjohnny

Sport climber
Sands Motel , Las Vegas
Jun 15, 2017 - 07:29pm PT
Sorry i never met Chuck Clance...
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
Jun 15, 2017 - 08:43pm PT
Hah, Klaus, I remember that story. Classic Clancy. Ugh.

One quick one of his good side: A friend had taken a major screamer onto me WAY up on Middle Cathedral--blood, moaning, general chaos, but we weren't too wasted to get ourselves off, so we rapped, stumbled to the base and hitched to the infirmary. A few Frankenstein stitches and much squirming later, I stumbled out into the night, happy to be generally ok. Days later, after not seeing Clance for a while, he calls me just to check in, see if I'm okay, genuinely concerned and sweet--a friend looking out for a buddy who'd been through a harrowing experience. I really appreciated that. He was a good dude as long as he didn't get too deep into the juice.

BAd
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Jun 15, 2017 - 08:50pm PT
I remember him telling me about when he lived above or next door to the Mitchell Brothers Theatre (porn pioneers) and all the various encounters and escapades. Dude had more outrageous experiences in a month (every month) than most "normal" people have in a lifetime.

Edit: This is a good read. Hunter S. and Clance were probably bros. Timeframe seems about right.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitchell_Brothers_O%27Farrell_Theatre
Fogarty

climber
BITD
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2017 - 09:07pm PT
Clance famous quote, Bitch Lesbian
Fogarty

climber
BITD
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2017 - 09:16pm PT
Yes Russ, the Carol Moyer death traverse, remember to tie in😳
Fogarty

climber
BITD
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2017 - 09:19pm PT
Best to just remember him as Clance, who was one of one and we were all lucky to have the experiences we had and can share. Peace ✌️
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jun 15, 2017 - 09:32pm PT
You guys aren't painting a pretty picture.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jun 15, 2017 - 09:56pm PT
So, what happened to him?
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Jun 15, 2017 - 10:19pm PT
Chuck did not want to burden any friends with his passing. I had a close friend reach out to his son, and he just said that he wanted to honor his dads wishes. That is coming from his best friend.

He was the kind of guy you would want on your side for sure, hehe.

I had some truly wild times with him, glad he made it to my wedding

Cheers buddy, I will send one to the eye for you.

klaus

Big Wall climber
Florence & Normandy
Jun 15, 2017 - 10:35pm PT
Robert L, I agree. As a father of a 3 year old girl these sort of guys scare me now. they should scare you too Mucci. Nice wedding tho
Jim Clipper

climber
from: forests to tree farms
Jun 15, 2017 - 11:12pm PT
I don't claim to have known him. Maybe I met an older more mellow version of the Clance.

He didn't come off as a misogynist at all. Actually, he spoke about how hard he worked to catch his first wife. He seemed to regret that it didn't work out too.

Definitely not politically correct. No filter. He didn't apologize, and his approach seemed influenced by a "time", a few decades back, when things were decidedly different between women and men. He lit up a bit when talking about the 60's.

When I mentioned we were opening an office in Santa Cruz, he replied with a grin, "There are a lot of lesbians in Santa Cruz". He followed that, more sincerely, with, "If you could make them feel comfortable, it might be good for your business". He was right.

He told me that he broke a couple of ribs once, I think on El Cap. He was still able top out. He said that he popped off and landed on a pillar (he said he was aiming for it). I said that it didn't sound like a good idea. He said it was that or go for another 20 feet or so to the ledge.

Maybe look at some of his climbs and when he did them. Maybe it speaks a bit about his character. maybe a little of what I thought I saw...

He spoke fondly of his son, and of a few of the people who post here too.

We all have our demons. Humor may be one of the less toxic ways to deal with suffering.

I'll raise a beer anyway. Wish I had given him a call, and gotten to know him more.

pinckbrown

Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
Jun 16, 2017 - 03:26pm PT
Friend of mine and Chuck says he passed in
December 2016. Didn't want anyone bothered
by the details and told his son Kevin not to divulge
details. If you knew Chuck, you could probably
figure it out.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Jun 17, 2017 - 08:55am PT
I think we are getting a bit off route here.

Chuck passed away. Now the stories are coming out. Great, we all have plenty of those....

Chuck Was a kind soul, a friend, a father, a defender, a rambler, and a climber.

Yes he was troubled.

80's era sport drinking and girl chasing seemed to be a common theme among the stories I have heard from many individuals around during that period. To have that cloud doom what chuck did after all of that, for the rest of his life is disappointing.

No Klaus, i do not put chuck in the Predator class as you have. He was always great with my family and friends and I am sad you have that impression of him, he always spoke highly of you bud...

Bottom line, he is gone and we don't need to beat the horse to the point anybody who read this will take away that he was a threat to all who knew him.

Quite the opposite. I am just happy that the people he was close to all loved him through the good and bad, and that all of them are my close friends.

I miss my friend, and all that he did for me.
lars johansen

Trad climber
West Marin, CA
Jun 17, 2017 - 09:55am PT
Amen Josh-thanks for that-lars
Mike.

climber
Jun 17, 2017 - 11:14am PT
Thanks, mucci.
norwegian II

Trad climber
camino, ca
Jun 17, 2017 - 11:31am PT
i'm better for knowing the man.
chuck was good stock, as far as i knew him.

he was camping at the leap one summer
and i offered him my cabin since i wasn't
much using it. he stayed for a month
and left the place spit-shine clean with
a full brick of beer in the fridge.

i highlt value the times and climbs that i shared with
chuck. a wide-open soul, from my perspective.

i'm going to go find a lull in the wind and
a spot of shade and drink a good big coors
and divorce the moment for a while.

and go visit chuck
rottingjohnny

Sport climber
Sands Motel , Las Vegas
Jun 17, 2017 - 10:00pm PT
hail to the weege....And chuck...
Petch

Gym climber
knapsack crack
Jun 17, 2017 - 10:01pm PT
I met Chuck when I arrived at the Leap. We spent many campfires and beers talking tales and spewing sh#t the last 20+ years. It was always fun to see him,even if you had to wake him up in his rig. When we had our child, he brought us a. book"Where the wild things are ". He said it was one of his favorites with his son. I read that to my daughter many of times, and always thinking of Clance. As the years passed he would always ask me about my child and how she was doing. I would show up at the Station and there would be a gift from him to her. He was a kind and gentle soul! He was a smart ass and a character. He will be missed in the Berry!
slobmonster

Trad climber
SF (via NH & CO)
Jun 17, 2017 - 10:13pm PT
(Unless I'm misappropriating a memory) Chuck used to come into Marmot Mtn Works in Berkeley. Always nice, always kind... just checking things out. Hadn't he been a USCG rescue swimmer (or something to that effect) by the GG bridge?
Fogarty

climber
BITD
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2017 - 10:34pm PT
Having a drink thinking of you my friend, bump👍
Jim Clipper

climber
from: forests to tree farms
Jun 24, 2017 - 12:54pm PT

Mtnmun

Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
Jun 24, 2017 - 11:18pm PT
Chuck was a real character and I often saw him sleeping upright in the drivers seat of his truck at the Leap. Sometimes I think he spent the night that way. Even when he was lit up his foot work was amazing on the rock. RIP Chuck I will miss running into you.
Chris Cunningham

Trad climber
San Francisco
Jul 2, 2017 - 09:19pm PT
I guess I was wrong about Chuck's old Whillans harness.


Somewhere, I have some videos and pics of Chuck which I will compile and post up soon.

Chris
Wildschwein

Trad climber
Celle
Apr 4, 2018 - 10:56am PT
Aloha. Chuck took me on my first climb in Yosemite. Black is brown back in 195-76. We spent a lot of time together through the years. Many good,some bad. I will always love his wild ways and angry spirit,even when it was directed my way. Love and forgive you my brother. You will always hold a place in my heart. Climb that endless climb now. Peace.
Petch

Gym climber
knapsack crack
Apr 5, 2018 - 06:00pm PT
I think we should do a memorial for Chuck at the Leap this summer. Including a Congo line traverse of Crazy lace on the Hog(he was part of the fa). Banquet beers in tow
Chris Cunningham

Trad climber
San Francisco
Apr 6, 2018 - 10:47pm PT
Good Idea Petch.
I'd be up for a memorial for Chuck this summer!
Keep us informed and I'll show up for sure.
Cheers
Chris Cunningham
Chris Cunningham

Trad climber
San Francisco
Apr 6, 2018 - 11:06pm PT
Chuck styled up this familiar climb. It was unusual for Chuck to acquiesce to using a top rope without a 20 minute argument; if at all. We had decided this would be the last climb of a wonderful climbing day. Chuck was in top form that day; his climbing skills, considering his age, were amazing. I knew he was serious when he said he was "not coming back" to America. So I decided to take a video of him on this climb. Unfortunately, Chuck heard the camera beep and started yelling at me to stop filming him. I was only able to snap this picture.
Jim Clipper

climber
from: forests to tree farms
Apr 7, 2018 - 01:06pm PT
Fogarty

climber
BITD
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2018 - 11:07pm PT
Iím all in favor for a Clance gathering at the Leap,
I miss my friend.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jun 13, 2018 - 01:00pm PT
Jim Brennan wrote:
The last time I encountered Clance was going up to the base of Sentinel Rock, while he and his partner were coming down. All members took the opportunity to shrug packs, take some water and communicate as climbers do.
... shrug packs, take some water and communicate as climbers do.

Damn if that doesn't transport me right to the feeling of being there, even without any descriptive details beyond the simple facts.

.........................................................................

And this one from climbrunride, way up-thread, is classic Clance state of mind & sense of humor:
He finally finished puking and climbed up to me. He confidently blamed his illness on the communists, cursed them, congratulated me on a good lead and was ready to move on with the day.

 All hail the memory of Clancy!
Jim Clipper

climber
from: forests to tree farms
Jun 13, 2018 - 05:37pm PT
After a [too] brief encounter, all I can say is too bad he shied away from the internet. Would the mods dare? No filters.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Jun 13, 2018 - 09:53pm PT
Here is another one...

We were bivied on p2 of leaning tower in hammocks. No joke. My first wall, bivy, everything. Fully gripped. He looks down at me and says " Don't move around too much, I'm not tied in and this belay is jingus without pins"

Silence...... then he starts laughing.

I never made it into my sleeping bag that night.

We finally make it to awahnee ledge and proceed to drink all of our beer, when a fixing team shows up. Chuck solicits them to bring more beer when they come back up in the morning. Which they do. So after 3 days on awahnee and fixed to the top of 7, I am now concerned and almost a week in with no upward movement in sight.

I convince chuck to bail so we can get more beer, which we do. Somehow he winds up ropeless on that ledge below the start and tells me to jettison the haul bag, and rap down to P1 and then toss him a rope. Calm as a cucumber I execute the toss, watch it explode and then proceed to leave like 15 draws on the way down.

Pull the ropes and meet him on the ledge.

He looks at me and says" ain't this bitchin?!" Then tells me he never repeats wall climbs so bailing on this one is ok.

Took the blame right away, and eased my mind enough to want to wall climb again.


In his own way he could whipe the bad day away as quick as it arrived.

I miss my bud.

Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
Jun 14, 2018 - 06:31am PT
Hilarious, Mucci. Thanks for that.

BAd
Fogarty

climber
BITD
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2018 - 07:49am PT
Josh Mucci
Great share, you made my day:)
Mike.

climber
Jun 14, 2018 - 07:58am PT
Right on, mucci. Thanks for the share.

Iím glad we got to say hi; wish it could have been more. Cheers, pal.
Fogarty

climber
BITD
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2018 - 06:57pm PT
Jim Clipper

climber
Aug 2, 2018 - 10:11pm PT
Warmth of those dear to us, between stone walls, always free.

Jim Clipper

climber
Nov 23, 2018 - 08:44am PT
missed opportunity.? just thinkin' happy thanksgiving.
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