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Shack
Big Wall climber
Reno NV
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DO NOT call Weld_it!
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Maysho
climber
Soda Springs, CA
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YMS is the only guide service that is permitted ie. has the legal right to guide in the park. You probably could find a "world class climber" who guides and who could do it for a bit less, but they would be fools to openly engage you on this public forum. In fact in times past YMS has tried to "sting" rogue guides, which might be what is going on here.
P.
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Robb
Social climber
The Greeley Triangle
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"Paging Mr. El Cap, Mr. El Cap to the white courtesy phone."
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
suspendedhappynation
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The guides at YMS who guide El Cap are world class.
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WBraun
climber
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"I didn’t expect a guiding service to come on here and say "We guide, call me"
My rates are $3.5K per pitch.
Call me .....
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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John_Markton, don't take offense at the response, but you have to realize that if you are not known to the people who would guide but aren't YMS, they are not going to risk the hassle their life will become dealing with the consequences of a sting operation, it's not personal.
It's a total bummer to have a partner pull out of a trip... it happens, it delays your goal of climbing El Cap... you could go to the Valley and climb with various pickup partners... have a good time and be wiser the next time you plan to go up the big stone.
After all, it isn't going anywhere in our lifetime...
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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And don't bother bitching at Werner about the price... he'll just pretend not to hear you. He will however get you up the thing AND rescue you if you need it at the same time!
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Jobee
Social climber
The Portal
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Y.M.S =Y.S.S. Yosemite Spy Service
It's espionage out there ..ha, ha!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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> Well with gear and a plane ticket, I already have a lot invested.
Are you saying you bought gear only for doing El Cap; are you going to throw it away afterwards?
Was your partner going to lead everything, i.e. guide you?
Partners can't make it sometimes; time to find another or reschedule.
You can still use your plane ticket to come out and climb with other people.
Build some skills and meet new partners.
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slevin
Trad climber
New York, NY
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Just out of curiosity, if you hire a guide, would he let you lead any pitches or you end up following/cleaning the whole way? You kind-of hope that a guide would be a bit of an instructor so eventually you can do it yourself. I would gladly pay a few thousand (or more) to get up to speed on aid and big wall techniques so I can do a wall myself in the future. Certainly, I would not want to do a guided tour where I follow the whole way and get to clean with the guide having all the fun.
PS. I have two drastically different experiences hiring guides. One was in England, I came alone for business trip and wanted to jump on some grit at a short notice. The guy was an awesome climber and once he figured out that I've been around the block, he let me lead a few nice pitches (hollering nerviously about me running things out a touch). The other time, I hired a guide (in the US) he was rude, condescending and was not willing to try the climbs that I wanted to try.
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mikeyschaefer
climber
Yosemite
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I'll do it for free as long as you make a 3.5k charitable donation to me.....
No really though, YMS charges 3.5k because it's not worth a guides time if it were any cheaper. It is a tremendous amount of work up there regardless of the skill of your "client."
I guided El Cap a few times for YMS and that was enough for me to figure out there are easier and safer ways to make money in this world.
The one guarantee you will get by hiring a YMS guide is a World Class Climber, and one that is probably a heck of a lot safer than most other world class climbers.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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John, I like Ed's advice. If you lead 5.11+ sport you obviously have some ability in the body movement of climbing. Leading only 5.10 a trad indicates you need more experience, a trip to Yosemite hooking up with climbers in Camp 4 would be an invaluable experience. Who knows, your dream still could come true, and, take it from me, there is always next year.
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jfailing
Trad climber
A trailer park in the Sierras
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It is my understanding that if you pay a guide to take you up El Cap, you aren't allowed to lead anything. Only jug behind. I think that even on a climb like the Nose, which as some moderate free climbing in it, the client is only allowed to jug.
While that is certainly one way up getting up the big stone, it would probably be much more satisfying to actually climb and lead some pitches yourself.
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slevin
Trad climber
New York, NY
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the client is only allowed to jug Not even follow the moderate pitches free? If that's the case, it's a waste of cash.
PS. it would be pretty cool to try the hard pitches (changing corners and the great roof) on the toprope...
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Green Cove slabbage BITD!
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Following free is permitted. Leading is not.
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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hmmm....
well if you happen to show up at the base of Zodiac near the end of May and happen to leave a small "donation" in the bottom of my haul bag (doesn't have to be four digits) you can jug my lines.
Just one thing..... don't mess with my Love Ewe™
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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How long does a typical guided service up El Cap take?
Does the guide do all the hauling too? And cooking?
3.5k is a lot of money but I guess when you consider all the work involved that's not too shabby for being able to just walk up to El Cap and greet your guide and go...knowing that as long as you can jug you'll top out.
By comparison how much does it cost to be guided down a river?
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Prod
Trad climber
Dodge Sprinter Dreaming
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The other time, I hired a guide (in the US) he was rude, condescending and was not willing to try the climbs that I wanted to try.
Who was that and where?
hmmm....
well if you happen to show up at the base of Zodiac near the end of May and happen to leave a small "donation" in the bottom of my haul bag (doesn't have to be four digits) you can jug my lines.
Wouldn't count as a solo though.
Prod.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Wether you're only following or swinging leads, it can still be a lot of fun (or not) and both styles still take a bunch of effort and some knowledge of what you're doing. People are always compelled to tell you that it's not going to be a disappointment if you're not leading b/c that's their deal, but it won't necessarily be yours.
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