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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Pay a guide when you can lead 5.11 "sport" and 5.10 trad?
Just show up and start sniffing around for competent partners like generations of climbers before you. geez.
I met a young German who showed up in Yo with a dream of El Cap.
I didn't take him up the Captain, but I did get him up Leaning Tower.
Don't be a weenie!!!
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Hoots
climber
Toyota Tacoma
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I will echo the advice everyone else is giving, find partners in Camp 4! It is fun, it is easy, and there is generally going to be someone there who will complement your skill set and have the same or similar ambitions.
My friend showed up last year, a lanky sport climber with zero aid experience, hooked up with a stoked partner, bought a couple WC ropemans for jumars and they proceeded to send the Nose in 3 days.
Don't look at the trip as one with such a singular purpose. Have some fun with it!
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Prod
Trad climber
Dodge Sprinter Dreaming
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Wether you're only following or swinging leads, it can still be a lot of fun (or not) and both styles still take a bunch of effort and some knowledge of what you're doing. People are always compelled to tell you that it's not going to be a disappointment if you're not leading b/c that's their deal, but it won't necessarily be yours.
All very true. you'll have a blast wall camping for sure. But don't sell yourself short, grab teh rack on some c1 and c2 pitched. You'll love aid leading.
Prod.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Cut me some slack dave.
I've taken people up walls for nothing at all.
Setting up a belay and the like isn't rocket science, especially if you have agreed on some rules and principles beforehand.
You're worth more than $3,500 for El Cap? Wow, there must be some extra special services there....
If it's not worth it, why would you do it?
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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So far as the Yoz climbing school having an exclusive on guiding El Cap, is everyone sure this is legally enforcable, as in a court of law? Has anyone ever challenged this? Of course it's all about the money, and the dough people feel they are being done out of, but some arrangement between pimps should be possible.
JL
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Have you been to the Valley before? If not there's a lot more than just El Cap to climb.
If you haven't been I'd suggest showing up and solo-climb the bolt ladder on the Le Conte bolder for easy aid/clean practice. Then hook up with a partner from the Camp 4 board and climb some classics like East Buttress of Middle Cathedral and/or some aid climbs like El Cap tree, South Face of Washington Column or Leaning Tower.
You don't have to go straight for the clitoris. What's wrong with a little kiss first boy?
A YMS guide for El Cap would be a fun experience if you want to spend the money. Abuse their ropes and gear. Let them haul. It's probably worth it. It is lame they have a guiding monopoly in the park though and you can't lead anything.
That said there are other ways to do it. There are people with houses near the park you could pay to stay at and then go climbing with them. You could ask around at the Yosemite Lodge Cafeteria (the table at the Southwest corner with scruffy looking climbers). It would be about half the cost and you'd get to lead what you want.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Yes dave it's true, we've all seen one pitch climbers turn into grip-fests a bit higher off the ground. But that can be sussed out on a couple warm up climbs.
As to the OP, I would echo other people in saying that there are LOTS of big cliffs worthy of your attention there....like EVERYWHERE YOU LOOK!!
They're kinda hard to miss.
Of course El Cap is a great goal too, but not worth waiting in a conga line.
Especially when there is no line on so many great routes there.
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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Of course El Cap is a great goal too, but not worth waiting in a conga line.
If only I could convince myself of that. hmmm....
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xtrmecat
Big Wall climber
Kalispell, Montanagonia
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When are you going to be there? As said just show up, put in your best efforts to hook up, and have the time of your life.
I've found parners for walls via forums, and also found them while in the valley, and even prearanged a backcountry meet with a YMS guide to do a route while backpacking with my wife. All good.
I would love to bump into you Nature, and may look for you near the end of the month near Zodiac base. I should be about climbed out by then.
John_Markton, I won't say I'll take you up anything grade VI, but if you are around the valley looking for a partner while I am in the valley this spring, I would love to do a few shorter objectives with you, provided everything is as advertised. I'll be around for a month, with an internet met partner, commited to one large route, and possibly two. That leaves for about two weeks of random fun, and if you wanted to jump in, I am game. No money or other bribes, I figure just getting to meet great people from great locals around the globe is more than enough payment for a day of sunburn on the back of the neck. Heck our free abilities seem compatable enough that there is only about two lifetimes of good stuff to climb at that level. If interested I'll post a pic of my ugly mug, so you can recognize me amongst the hordes, and know to strike up a conversation.
Bob
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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"Yes dave it's true, we've all seen one pitch climbers turn into grip-fests a bit higher off the ground. But that can be sussed out on a couple warm up climbs."
Really?
I've been up El Cap many times, and sometimes I get snail eye standing at the base when I'm not even planning on climbing.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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^^^^^^ My advice is to not look up while walking to the base.
When you get to the base it is then ok 'cause it is foreshortened
and it doesn't look so FREEEEEEEEKING BEEEEEEEEG!!!!!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Really?
I've been up El Cap many times, and sometimes I get snail eye standing at the base when I'm not even planning on climbing.
Me too, but I don't lock up when I get 5 pitches off the dirt.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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I always feel outclassed by the prospect of going up, up, up, as I stand at the base ready to lose a lung from the 15 minute hike.
I'm just saying that being dialed and game when a warm bed awaits after a practice day is just not the same as fixing to rough it for many days in a row. Otherwise skilled people start making bad choices or second guessing themselves until they bail all the time once the whole enchilada is on their plate.
Edit...I wrote this re: Reilly before I saw survival's last post. For me, the 5 pitch mark is about exactly where I always feel like I want to bail. (Besides while racking, and standing at the base, and looking at the clouds, and...) It's sort of the commitment point. Up to there, it's still fixing/cragging.
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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slight thread drift here....
can anyone estimate the distance and elevation gain from EC Meadow parking to the base of zod?
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Big Piton
Trad climber
Ventura
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We know how rules change. So, what I am about to say may be out dated.
However, a rock climb may be guided by outside company if they are on a tour type trip.
I was a guide for a outing style company and we applied for and got a temp. guide permit. We did routes in the valley and in the meadows. This was over 20 years ago.
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WBraun
climber
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The problem with getting YMS guide for El Cap is you get to lead nothing.
You jumar a whole wall and pay for it.
If that's all you want fine.
But this guy, the original poster, John, I highly doubt he wants to do that.
My rate for the Nose is $7000 per pitch and you lead and haul everything, all the pitches, including me.
That's reasonable isn't it .....?
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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My rate for the Nose is $7000 per pitch and you lead and haul everything, all the pitches, including me.
That's reasonable isn't it .....?
BWA HA HAHAHAAAAAa!!
Werner, you are feckin' priceless!
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Prod
Trad climber
Dodge Sprinter Dreaming
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slight thread drift here....
can anyone estimate the distance and elevation gain from EC Meadow parking to the base of zod?
Enough gain where you'd consider paying $3500 for someone to haul your loads. We did 50 pound loads and it about killed me.
Prod.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Ugh..you just made me remember hauling everything to Lurking Fear....and to Half Dome....GAK!
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Prod
Trad climber
Dodge Sprinter Dreaming
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Google earth shows it being around 950'
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!