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Tenaya Peak


Tuolumne Meadows, California USA


Trip Report
Tenaya Peak -- Climbing with the wife
Tuesday July 7, 2015 9:10am
My wife loves to climb: especially if the approach and descent are not horrible affairs. I consider myself lucky to have my spouse as a climbing partner. A couple of weeks ago we decided to head up to Tuolumne for a day trip. Although I have driven through the area several times, I have never actually climbed there. My wife was a good sport, allowing us to have an early start and we left Fresno at 5am, and were hiking into Tenaya Peak by 7am

Hurray for easy approaches!
Hurray for easy approaches!
Credit: Nanobody

The guidebook says the climb is 14 pitches, however the first maybe 1/3 of the route is really class 2/3 approach slabs. Easily done in hiking shoes.

Approach slabs
Approach slabs
Credit: Nanobody

We made it up to a big ledge, where there were 4 people waiting in line to rope up, and another 2 people ahead already climbing. We took a break, and waited for some of the route to clear. We headed up some slabby cracks. Good times

5.0 cracks. Good times
5.0 cracks. Good times
Credit: Nanobody


Which way? Its all basically the same
Which way? Its all basically the same
Credit: Nanobody

We traveled some more 3rd class and 4th class terrain before reaching another large ledge system, where the route steepens somewhat.

Headwall
Headwall
Credit: Nanobody

A couple more roped pitches of easy 5th class, had us topping out a little bit before noon.

Top out!
Top out!
Credit: Nanobody

Great views, great climb
Great views, great climb
Credit: Nanobody

We sat on the summit and chatted with the other climbers, who were kind enough to take our picture together.

Credit: Nanobody

We got lost a few times on the descent, but eventually made it down before the heat was too intense. A great day, and a fun climb.


  Trip Report Views: 2,449
Nanobody
About the Author
Nanobody is a wussy, spaghetti armed climber from Fresno, CA.

Comments
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Roots

Mountain climber
Redmond, Oregon
  Jul 7, 2015 - 09:18am PT
Great! Thanks been wanting to get on this route with my wife too.
johntp

Trad climber
socal
  Jul 7, 2015 - 09:28am PT
Yee Haw!

Nice TR.
looks easy from here

climber
Ben Lomond, CA
  Jul 7, 2015 - 09:40am PT
Looks like a blast. Climbing wives are an awesome thing to have. I'm glad to be part of the club.

How were the skeeters?
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
  Jul 7, 2015 - 10:05am PT
Yeah! Love that climb
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Jul 7, 2015 - 10:18am PT
SWEET!!

What a great climb! That was my son Layton's first multi-pitch.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Jul 7, 2015 - 10:31am PT
Isn't it a beauty? One of the best.

...left [home] at [time], and were hiking into Tenaya Peak by [2 hrs later]...

I know I speak for all of us when I say you have induced our jealousy and ire.

-Every climbing Bay Area resident.

Thanks for the TR!
jonnyrig

climber
  Jul 7, 2015 - 10:34am PT
Nice TR. I can actually relate to this one, having climbed that myself! That's a rare event, actually. Did you actually place any of those big cams?
Ed H

Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
  Jul 7, 2015 - 10:47am PT
Nice work! We were on Osprey Overhang (Olmstead Canyon) looking over at you!

Tenya view from top of Osprey Overhang
Tenya view from top of Osprey Overhang
Credit: Ed H
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
  Jul 7, 2015 - 11:04am PT
My wife loves to climb: especially if the approach and descent are not horrible affairs.

And you took her to Tenaya Peak? What's next Snake Dike? ;-)
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Jul 7, 2015 - 11:09am PT
Fresno representin! Way to get out of the manzanita choked lowlands and head for the high country!

Credit: micronut
Gunkie

Trad climber
Valles Marineris
  Jul 7, 2015 - 11:12am PT
Well done. Did you need big cam?
Nanobody

Trad climber
Fresno, CA
Author's Reply  Jul 7, 2015 - 11:15am PT
The big cams were useless. I think I placed maybe 1-2 pieces of gear per pitch.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Jul 7, 2015 - 11:17am PT
Well done! When my wife (then my fiancee) and I chose our first climb in the Meadows area, the choice came down to Tenaya Peak vs. Cathedral Peak. We chose the latter, and I think it was probably a mistake. I'd already done Tenaya twice by then, but thought the length may be daunting for a first-timer.

Thanks for posting an enjoyable and enticing TR.

John
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
  Jul 7, 2015 - 11:24am PT
Well done!!! Put me on your "climbs my wife was happy on" mailing list. Seriously. Your's sounds like she has the same basic requirements as mine for an enjoyable climb.
10b4me

Mountain climber
Retired
  Jul 7, 2015 - 12:42pm PT
one of the best climbs in TM.
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
  Jul 7, 2015 - 01:08pm PT
Nice! Thanks for sharing, and reminding me of a good time. I've only done it once, but it was a stellar experience. And yes the 2 hour approach definitely caught my eye!
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
  Jul 7, 2015 - 01:18pm PT
Right on. I think your clock was wrong though;-) 3.5 hr drive in 2? Speeding kills bears, haha. Thanks for the TR.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Jul 7, 2015 - 01:19pm PT
I should add that the two hour approach caught my eye, too. My record for Fresno to Curry Village is about 1:30, but I started at 4:00 a.m. and the only other cars going my way were about five Boy Scout-carrying cars that I caught just as I hit the last passing stretch on Highway 41 before Westfall. I don't think I've made it to Tenaya Lake in less than 2:45, and that's when the Rangers weren't looking and all slow drivers used the first turnout they found. I suspect that if I started at 4:00 a.m. I might come close, but I doubt it.

Nonetheless, those who laugh at residents of the Big Raisin forget the advantage of our proximity to the mountains.

John
ClimberDave

Trad climber
The LBC, CA
  Jul 7, 2015 - 01:30pm PT
Nice!!

Have wanted to get out and up that one for a while. Thansk for the report.
Nanobody

Trad climber
Fresno, CA
Author's Reply  Jul 7, 2015 - 02:03pm PT
Fair enough, driving times might be a bit off. It was early, maybe we left at 4:30 and were at the trail-head by 7:30
johnboy

Trad climber
Can't get here from there
  Jul 7, 2015 - 05:41pm PT
You two are lucky to have each other to climb with.

I go climbing and my wifes goes walking and taking pictures.

Thank for the TR.
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Tenaya Peak - Northwest Buttress 5.5 - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Greg Barnes