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Cathedral Peak


Tuolumne Meadows, California USA


Trip Report
TR - Needles, Courtright Reservoir & Tuolumne Meadows...
Wednesday August 13, 2008 11:28pm
Our initial plans were to head to Tuolumne Meadows (in Yosemite National Park) to climb, then head to the wine country to meet to supertopoians and road bike. Following the ride, we were going to head to Courtright Reservoir to climb based on the beta gained here (thanks again everyone).

Two days before taking off though, a big fire broke out near Yosemite Valley sending smoke into Tuolumne and surrounding areas. After burning for more than a week, it appears the fire is finally contained, but only after destroying 28 homes and 90 outbuildings. Very sad.

So, the day we were to leave, we changed our plans completely because of the fire. We ditched the bikes and drove through Vegas heading to Southern California to climb at the Needles instead. En Route, we stopped and visited with Loomis and his friend Helena. It was a great time sitting on the porch, snacking on yummy food and drinking some tasty adult beverage.

Part I: The Needles

The Needles are gorgeous in the midst of the Sequoia National forest. The granite is as white as I've seen and streaked with lichen the color of a yellow highlighter. It's really striking.


I found the fire watch tower to be pretty cool too. That thing was built in 1937/38. I am continually amazed that the roads in even exist since they were built before. We went to the tower twice – once just to look around, and the other time to get cookies on Sunday. Yay for cookies for climbers on Sunday!



The first day, we hiked into the Needles and climbed Airy Interlude. Next up was the Howling. Day Two included the additional classic of Thin Ice which is located on The Sorcerer. What a great climb though I could have lived without the flaring offwidth! This portion of the climb was a complete grunt-fest for me. I did not feel elegant or graceful. Instead, adjectives such as thrutching, dry-heaving, and desperate clawing describes it better. :) Next we rapped the notch between the Sorcerer and the Charletan to climb Spooky. A climb to the Needles would not be complete without the photo of us atop the wild pinnacle. This combination of climbs offered a variety of features: off widths, lay backs and weird fluted "things" to grab onto. All very cool.




After a rest day (I excel at these), we hiked in and headed to the Warlock formation to do two routes recommended by Herb Laeger who was there climbing. I think one was called Moondrops and the other The Flying Warlock (though I could be wrong). One was a 10a, the other a 10b. Not much to say about them except that they were fun. After lunch, we hiked down a bit and climbed the first two pitches of Fancy Free. The second pitch of this route was especially fun - a really great finger crack. Unlike flaring wide cracks, I really like finger cracks. It was really great. It was an excellent way to end the day.



While hiking in for our last day of climbing at the Needles, I heard the sound and saw the shake of a rattle. Instantly I flew through the air exclaiming "HUGEST SNAKE!!!!" That is not a typo. That is what I actual said. Hugest snake? Dave immediately followed with an elegant flying leap and odd noise. We looked back and almost on the trail was a huge rattlesnake. In the shade. And it was cool. He was not where we'd expect to see one. Ick. Can't believe I didn't see it before hearing it. It was right in front of us.


Our last day at the Needles was a short climbing day since we needed to get some driving done. We did one route called Spook Book. The climb was fun and hard. The slab was as heinous as I feared it'd be. I just hate hard slab – what can I say? The rest was just hard and fun. And it seems to go on and on.



Topping out, we saw the worst weather of the trip - some clouds and a few rain drops. This was unfortunate since the descent off the top of this route was by far the scariest part of the entire trip. One move and I’d be a smear mark only marring the beautiful white granite.

Part II: Courtright Reservoir

Courtright was pretty much everything described to us. Driving in, one is greeted with many beautiful views. Of course, there are the trees. Big trees. Very cool.


We pulled over at one viewpoint and who is standing there? None other than the Taco’s Jody. Great to meet him in person finally. He was there with his children and a niece for some climbing and fishing. After some yapping, we continued in toward where we wanted to set up camp.


The next amazing view is Power Dome – the “prize” of Courtright. The wall was big. Really big. Very cool.


Our attention quickly turned to a dam. A really big earthen dam. According to some sources, it is the tallest earthen dam (315’ by some accounts). The Dam was built in 1958 (and looks like it's had no maintenance since). We had to cross the dam to get to our camping area. It was barely wide enough for one vehicle and had no guardrails. It was very creepy for sure just seeing a HUGE drop off.


The next day, we got up eager to head to Power Dome and climb. We’d talked with folks and had the guide book, so it seemed clear what we needed to do to get to the face of the wall. Unfortunately, even with this information, it was not clear. We hiked up to the top and looked at the scramble down. We poked around and found a bit of a down climb – safe though very exposed. After this small section, Dave located a rap station. From the looks of it, this station has been in the wall for a century.

Okay, maybe not a century. Still, they were rusty button heads. And the hangers looked like someone had tried to pound them flat. Or remove them. Or something bad. Bleck.


We rapped down and found another equally spooky rap station. This got us to a ledge system requiring some 5th class eecking on horizontal traverses for miles (okay, maybe not miles).



Finally, after far longer than we thought it’d take, we managed to get down to the climb we wanted: Little Nukey. It got so many recommendations we felt it’d be a great first climb.



The climb started with some slab moves and offered typical old-school bolting. It was just pure fun. A few pitches up, we commented that we’d not seen any of the infamous Courtright solution pockets. Little did we know when we made that comment that they were right above us. I could hear Dave giggling as he placed tricams and cord into these things.



Check out the cool belay station Dave set up. There is a bolted one above, but he couldn't resist the bowling ball hole belay!


By the time we topped out it was about 4 or 5 meaning a second route was out of the question given the approach. Besides, we were convinced that the approach we’d taken was absolutely incorrect. Where is this easy approach several people mentioned to us?

The next day, we planned to head back to Power Dome and climb Paraclete. Then we wanted to go to Penstemon Dome and do a four-pitch 10a that looked to be a lot of fun. Given the hassles with approaching the dome yesterday (approaching from climber’s left), and additional review of the book, we felt that we’d approached the face of the wall from the wrong side.
Our plan was to hike to the top of the Power Dome and stash our stuff. We would descend to the base of the wall (from climber’s right). While on top, we found that someone left a rock message


Really?

Given that we both share the sense of humor of a 6th grade boy, we corrected the sign:


We cackled the rest of the day over our apparent cleverness.

We then headed down the “correct” way to reach the wall. Almost immediately we learned that that getting to the face from the opposite side proved equally puzzling, difficult and more dicey. Yesterday, a fall meant a long pummeling death resulting from bouncing down the rock face many hundred feet. Today one slip on the slabs meant a sliding, scraping fall for about 100’ until plunging into a raging class four river with roiling waterfalls. At least the drowning wouldn’t take long.

After far longer than we’d anticipated it would take, we did finally get to Paraclete. The climb was fun and long. However, given the long approach time, we didn’t have time to go to Penstemon Dome at all.

The next day was a short day so we thought we’d go to Trapper Dome. According to the guidebook, this dome is located ten minutes from the Trapper Springs campground. Unfortunately it did not say in which direction. One would think a many hundred foot dome would be visible, but with the density of the trees, that is not the case. Our ten minute hike turned into an hour + hike looking for this stupid rock formation. I was ready to just leave, but Dave pushed on and found it.

I was not motivated by the time we arrived at Trapper so Dave headed up Nosferata. It looked like fun – sharp edges up a face, then a finger-eating razor-sharp crack up a right-facing corner. After he rapped, we headed out of Courtright.


Courtright Reservoir has a lot going for it – it’s beautiful, there is a ton of rock and it’s very quiet. We didn’t see a single other climber there the whole time we were there. There were many fisherman and many more four-wheelers. Still it was a very quiet place to be with gorgeous views. On the down-side: approaches. Perhaps the reason there are not many climbers there is because it‘s a pain to get to anything…at least anything on Power Dome. It takes quite some time, is dangerous and it could be argued that the risk and time is not worth the climbing. Still, we are both happy we got out there. We wondered why the locals haven’t installed just a single anchor on top of one of the routes to enable a quick and easy rappel approach to the base of the cliff??

Our next stop was Wawona to see Karl Baba. It’s always great visiting with him – good food, great conversation, good wine and hot tub in a most beautiful environment.

Part III: Tuolumne Meadows

Happily, we did end up getting to go to Tuolumne Meadows since the fire had been conquered. It was clear and beautiful in TM. This was my first trip to TM - I’d long heard of how beautiful it was, as well as the fun climbing on ‘peanuts.’ It quickly became clear why this place’s nickname is the ‘granite planet’. There is granite everywhere. And hikers – holy moly, I’d never seen so many hikers in my life. The park was absolutely jam packed with cars from hikers. Crazy.

Our first stop was Lembert Dome to climb “Cry In Time Again.” This 10a multi-pitch climb is best described as sustained face climbing that is a bit sporty at times. In other words, the bolts are a long way apart meaning a fall could result in a nasty whipper. Gack!


The first pitch Dave declared the entry price pitch because of its gnarly slab moves. I hate those types of moves! The top two pitches featured the infamous Tuolumne Peanuts which are feldspar crystals sticking out of the granite. Aside from the few unpleasant slab moves, the climb was great fun and a good introduction to Tuolumne climbing.


The next day we went to Fairview Dome to climb Lucky Streak. By the book, Lucky Streak is a 5.10d 7-pitch climb.


There was one party on the climb when we arrived. We goofed off at the base and tried to stay warm in the sun waiting for them to get higher on the route. Finally, the party had moved up the wall far enough, so Dave started up the route. Dave linked the first two pitches and I started up.

THWAPPP!!!!

Seems the party above us dropped a pair of Chacos or Tevas. Happily they didn’t hit either of us. The only damage was our being startled and knowing that one of the party above us was going to have a most unpleasant descent scramble in their climbing shoes. Ow!

We goofed off a wee bit at the belay ledge waiting for the party above us to move higher. After a while, Dave headed up the crux pitch. This pitch starts off with an awkward strenuous left-leaning finger crack which leads to a technical continuous left-leaning corner with pesky gear placements. Dave fired it and off I went.

WHAMMMM!!!!!

To my left and just below Dave is a big explosion. Scared me to death! Turns out the party above dropped their second pair of Chacos/Tevas. The good news was – as Dave put it – at least they can’t drop any more shoes on us.



A bit more linking of pitches and we were at the top in five pitches. By the time we were at the top, our feet were KILLING us! I was so happy that I had my descent shoes. It was glorious ripping the climbing shoes off my screaming dogs. All-in-all, this was a really fabulous climb.


We had only ½ day to play on our third and last day in TM. So, we decided to do Cathedral Peak.


The hike wasn’t bad at all, and there weren’t too many other parties on the wall. Still, to stay away from them, Dave chose a line to the right of the ‘normal’ route. It was much nicer not worrying about someone above knocking a rock (or shoes) on top of us.




With simul-climbing, we completed the climb in two long and one short pitch. The view from the 10,950’ summit is amazing. One can see Half Dome, Sentinel, and the Higher Cathedral in the distance – these are formations in Yosemite Valley. In addition, one can see Mathes Crest, Echo Peak, Unicorn Peak, Lembert Dome, Pywiack Dome, Fairview Dome, Eichorn Pinnacle, as well as countless others. The weather was very clear and warm. I had worried I’d be a bit cold on top, but that was not the case at all.




We hiked out, and headed out. Our next stop was a place that I’d long heard of and was finally going to get to see first hand: The Lee Vining Mobil Station. We enjoyed a really great meal of fish tacos then hopped in the truck for the long drive home. Great trip! Can’t believe we’ll be making the drive again in a few weeks for the Facelift!




  Trip Report Views: 3,363
Crimpergirl
About the Author
Crimpergirl is a sport climber from Boulder, Colorado!.

Comments
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Comment on this Trip Report
L

climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
  Aug 13, 2008 - 11:32pm PT
Awesome TR Crimpie! Just signed on and there it was, waiting for me.

Great pix--loved the snake and bowling ball holds.

You guyz are too funny!
FeelioBabar

Trad climber
One drink ahead of my past.
  Aug 13, 2008 - 11:40pm PT
Sweet!
F10 Climber F11 Drinker

Trad climber
e350
  Aug 13, 2008 - 11:45pm PT
Nice TR, it looks like both of you had a blast

You got me fired up and I made a roadtrip to Courtwright, having never been there.
Pretty cool place, even managed to climb a little with a bum back

Thanks for the pic's
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Author's Reply  Aug 13, 2008 - 11:51pm PT
Uh oh F10, you spelled "Courtright" wrong. Bluering is gonna get you like he got me for doing the same thing!!! :)
rhyang

climber
SJC
  Aug 14, 2008 - 12:07am PT
Beautiful !
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Aug 14, 2008 - 12:25am PT
who wants to go to the needles in September?


I DO I DO
hagerty

Social climber
A Sandy Area South of a Salty Lake
  Aug 14, 2008 - 12:42am PT
> Uh oh F10, you spelled "Courtright" wrong.
Speaking of spelling....
I always knew those Tuolumne routes as "Cryin' Time Again" and "Lucky Streaks".
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
  Aug 14, 2008 - 01:19am PT
This nice report deserves a bump, if only so that the local school marms can have at each other regarding proper spelling.
G_Gnome

Trad climber
Cali
  Aug 14, 2008 - 01:56am PT
Well Crimpie, there is an easy climb down into Power Dome, you just need to know where it is. You still have to do the slab traverse though.

As for Tuolumne, you really did miss all the best rock. To have not got to Melicott means your guides mislead you. And they are knobs, not peanuts (although some are peanut sized).

It's great that you enjoyed some of the best climbing Cali has to offer though. Good choices of locations to visit.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Aug 14, 2008 - 02:42am PT
Nice, very nice. Thanks for posting.

Which route did you two like most of those you did at the Needles?
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Aug 14, 2008 - 03:09am PT
Great trip! And nice report and pics to let us all enjoy it with you :)
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
  Aug 14, 2008 - 03:24am PT
Ghostbumps. ( I believe one of the routes whose name you could not remember....). Us Californians have so many wonderful things .....we should all be as happy as Kings. Another great adventure. Bravo. Thanks for sharing.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Aug 14, 2008 - 05:50am PT
Great post, as usual, and sounds like great fun. Sorry you missed the approaches at Courtright. They really are as short as the guidebook claims, but that may have something to do with familiarity.

Thanks again.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
  Aug 14, 2008 - 08:14am PT
Awesome, Crimpie & Dave!

But where'z the tunez????? (Cartoons, that is)?

Just kiddin'.
I wish I'd have been there!
Blinny

Big Wall climber
  Aug 14, 2008 - 09:30am PT
Yay!

Glad you got up to the lookout. . . isn't Margee a TRIP?

You're keepin' it alive, you two!

ox

eKat
MisterE

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
  Aug 14, 2008 - 09:49am PT
Rally great TR, Crimpie and Dave. Glad to see you guys getting out and getting it done!!!

Erik
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
  Aug 14, 2008 - 11:02am PT
Nice TR Crimpie! Once you poke around more at Courtright, you'll dieal in the fast way to approach stuff. Power dome is 30-40 minutes to Wichita Line Man (the bonus 5.7 pitch at the bottom before the main wall)...Aren't those tricams awesome in the solution pockets!

I've gotta get to the needles this year.....

kev
Mtnmun

Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
  Aug 14, 2008 - 11:15am PT
Those are some of my favorite climbing venues. What a fun trip down memory lane. Thanks for posting C.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
  Aug 14, 2008 - 11:18am PT
Kick-ass TR, crimpie, looks like you guys had a blast.

What a trip running into Jody.
F10 Climber F11 Drinker

Trad climber
e350
  Aug 14, 2008 - 11:46am PT
Crimper,

Thanks for the spelling correction, still a pretty cool place


the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
  Aug 14, 2008 - 12:00pm PT
Are you sure you don't miss working full time and the midwest? ;-)
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
Fresno
  Aug 14, 2008 - 12:23pm PT
Nice Crimpie and Dave! Bummed to have missed you guys in Tuolumne, but will see you at the Facelift.

There actually is a good approach for Power Dome. It's just difficult to find if you don't know where it is. You seemed to get on the right path the first day though, as you got on the traverse section of the approach. I have also approached from closer to the dam. Longer, but less intimidating for noob types.

Bummer about Trapper - the approach is all of 4-5 minutes. The approaches in Courtright really are nice - unless, of course, you're headed over to something like Locke Rock. Yikes! For the most part, however the approaches are all short.

Regardless, looks like an awesome trip and seems that you guys had a ton of fun!
wayne w

Trad climber
the nw
  Aug 14, 2008 - 12:46pm PT
Crimpie and Dave...living the life! Sweet trip!!
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Author's Reply  Aug 14, 2008 - 01:22pm PT
Well, the approaches we found didn't kill us (though they tried it seems). I think the key is familiarity. I bet had someone who had been there before taken us, it would have been no big deal. Trying to find it on our own though was tedious work. We spent too long finding Trapper. The whole time I'm saying "eff this, let's go to Tuolumne". I was sick of hiking! Dave has a micron more patience than I so we did finally locate it. After finding Trapper, it's easy to see why it is described as a short walk. You just have to head in the correct direction!

** For those of you visiting and getting the same "Trapper Dome is an easy 10 minute walk from the Trapper Springs campground", know this: Leave the campground, turn left on the dirt road and go a short distance. Look for somewhat worn path on the right. You'll be right there then. Easy ten minute approach. :)

Haha about missing the midwest. I've been having nightmares lately that I'm back there and working. I think the semester beginning has me wigged. I do still have students contacting me all the time. Have a dissertation defense to attend tomorrow (via phone). I can't escape entirely from it!

Life is great out here! I hope to never go back. ever. ever. ever.

Sorry to have missed you Nefarius - we got your note. Maybe next time...
ec

climber
ca
  Aug 14, 2008 - 05:37pm PT
Nice!

On that 'spooky' belay. Those appear to be some big azz 3/8" buttonheads w/ stainless hangers. 'Curious to see the hanger bent like that. Still pretty bomber. The spooky thing is you guys clipped into the chain! Bleck!

 ec
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Aug 14, 2008 - 06:03pm PT
Hey Crimpie and Dave, sorry to bail on meeting you guys for Cryin' Time in Tuolumne. My partner couldn't get off work in time but still really wanted to go, then it turned into a major waiting game trying to get outta Fres. It would have been like 11:30 till we got there, so I decided to bail. We ended up heading up and climbing at Courtright insted. Hope you got my text or phone message and didn't wait around too long. The offer is always open in Fresno if you wanna hook up. See you out there somewhere.
Scott
dsqrd

climber
  Aug 14, 2008 - 06:05pm PT
Awesome! And on that "the approaches really are short" ...

would anyone be kind enough to post directions to Tiger Wall? I'm in Fresno this weekend unexpectedly but without a guidebook ($93 on Amazon?) I expect I'll epic even worse!

thanks. - dd
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Aug 14, 2008 - 06:54pm PT
Directions to Tiger wall.
The parking area is 100yds BEFORE you get to the lake on the main road in. Youre heading down a nice long straightaway downhill into the reservoir and get your first real glimpse of Power Dome on your right. You have a nice gravel pull out just beyond a right facing utility access road.
Park here and look for a trail heading right (East).
Walk downhill staying on the trail, in 5-7 minutes you will come to a nice 50' wall with toprope potential. Good 5.8-5.9s with bolted anchors up top. Continue slightly uphill for 20yds past this the hang a hard right for another 50 yds. The Tiger Wall will be on your left. A big steep orange and black wall with very sporty routes and some great bouldering. If you are third classing at any time you are lost. Enjoy. Make sure to find the big old glacial erratic sitting on the flat slopes just beyond the Tiger Wall. Bloody good bouldery photoy fun.
tolman_paul

Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
  Aug 14, 2008 - 07:48pm PT
Great tr and pics!

Yeah I remember the approach to power dome. First time we tried from the road, then across the bottom of the gorge and up, and that sucked. I got off route and spooked from the cumulus and thunder. The next day we drove to the top, then made the downclimb, bushwack approach and I twisted my ankle hopping boulders.
Indianclimber

Trad climber
Las Vegas
  Aug 14, 2008 - 07:59pm PT
Thanks crimpie,I always love your reports
Ninfa
snakefoot

climber
Nor Cal
  Aug 14, 2008 - 08:49pm PT
best granite in cali...great shots
SammyLee2

Trad climber
Memphis, TN
  Aug 14, 2008 - 09:42pm PT
Hella TR, Crimpie. Thanks. Kim asked why you didn't yell, when you heard the snake, "Somebody turn the lights on!" Funny how your mind works. It connects but in corners. Ha, ha.

Very much looking forward to RMNP. Gonna be fun.

Really liked the Lambert Dome shots. Last time we were there, we heard the phone call for a rescue, at the store. By the time we got there, rescue was in place. Fortunately, it was just a broken ankle but still impressive as to their response. Plus, Kim saw this blond, young dude, cut like a machine, racking up. Hell, even I turned a head.

Anyway, great TR and pics, as usual.
L

climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
  Aug 15, 2008 - 12:24am PT
What the? This thing disappeared faster than yer ca$h in Vega$.


Sweet bump for a great TR.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
  Aug 15, 2008 - 11:02am PT
You've been cruising a widening range of classic NA areeas and routes this past year!
Looks like so much fun.
Flashlight

climber
  Aug 15, 2008 - 12:47pm PT
Hi Callie and Dave...glad I didn't ruin your Courtright adventure for you.

I should have stuck around longer the next day and at least shown you the "two minute approach" to Trapper Dome.

Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
  Aug 15, 2008 - 03:32pm PT
Wow, great pic's, and, a great lookin' trip!

Perhaps the reason there are not many climbers there is because it‘s a pain to get to anything…at least anything on Power Dome. It takes quite some time, is dangerous and it could be argued that the risk and time is not worth the climbing.

Geez, I didn't think it was too bad, but, I probably have a high tolerance for that type of an approach...

Under the pipe...



Down one side, cross the creek, up the other...



T'was a snap...

You guys are havin' a great season! Keep 'er goin'!

-Brian in SLC
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Author's Reply  Aug 15, 2008 - 03:35pm PT
Brian - that looks to be a nice approach. But I wouldn't have crossed the creek during our trip (believe me, we looked). It was raging! That may be the best way for low creek times for sure.

Cool photos too. That may be the only way to get most of Power Dome in a photo.
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
Fresno
  Aug 15, 2008 - 03:36pm PT
While that approach would work, it's kinda the long way to go, for sure. Yikes!

Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Author's Reply  Aug 15, 2008 - 07:10pm PT
Few more photos from the trip:

Attempted second cat ascent of Lembert Dome (note tourists trying to kill themselves in the background - rangers ended up intervening):


Resident taco "flashlight":


Jaws-looking rock at the Needles:


Excellent campsite in Courtright:


That kooky dam at Courtright:


Evening cat entertainment gone bad:


Dave rapping off of Trapper Dome:

Flashlight

climber
  Aug 15, 2008 - 08:55pm PT
Callie...are those tourists heading toward Water Cracks?

What's with the dude in the Club G'itmo shirt?
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Author's Reply  Aug 15, 2008 - 09:01pm PT
There were tourists way high goofing off on the descent side of Lembert. They were really behaving carelessly seeming not realizing the potential danger they were in. Some were playing up near Werner's Wiggle (not in photo).

While there with the cat, a ranger came up to admire the cat and admonish us for having her there - He saw the fools and immediately went up and had them come down. I was certain we'd see at least one touron pitch to a skidding near death.

Haha on the Gitmo shirt. :)
goatboy smellz

climber
लघिमा
  Aug 15, 2008 - 09:26pm PT
That's it, I'm selling everything and moving to Tuolumne.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
  Aug 25, 2008 - 07:13pm PT
Um, nice shot of Trapper Dome there in the dam photo. Better leave it on the card!
Zander

climber
  Aug 25, 2008 - 11:45pm PT
Nice TR Crimper!
Crying Time Again was one of my first 5.9 climbs swapping leads. I remember it being awesome. Gotta do it again. Supertopos own Ablegable invited himself along on our climb that day- minutes after introducing himself!
I always enjoy seeing your kitty out and about with you guys.
Climb on!
Zander
pc

climber
  Aug 26, 2008 - 12:27am PT
Fantastic! Thank you.
PP

Trad climber
SF,CA
  Sep 3, 2008 - 03:36pm PT
I recently tried to do the approach to Power dome from the climbers right on the 3rd to 4th class dike. It was more like 400 feet of easy fifth class traversing with a death fall to the river. Not a good way for a once a month climber. we should have gone the aqua duct way since the river was low.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
  Sep 3, 2008 - 03:51pm PT
yeah - fantastic.

looks like a class A climbing trip...

watch out though, that California granite is

the real deal and somewhat habit forming,

IMHO :)
salad

Big Wall climber
  Sep 3, 2008 - 05:28pm PT
good stuff!
Murzerker

climber
Away from Walhalla
  Dec 13, 2011 - 01:50pm PT
Bump for Making err Eating babies, and cool cats.
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  Dec 13, 2011 - 02:12pm PT
Crimpie your reports are awesome - the Hugest Snake and your Modest Proposal rock message manipulation had me laughing out loud. What fun!


thanks for sharing,
Slater

Trad climber
Central Coast
  Jan 13, 2012 - 01:07pm PT
yeah! Cool shots and climbing!
mooch

Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
  Jan 13, 2012 - 03:25pm PT
Nice shots Crimpie. Not to give you a hard time about the approaches but they aren't all that more difficult than the approaches in Tuolumne. Now that you know how to get to the "descent route" on Power Dome, it should go a lot faster. We had the descent time (from service road to the base of PD) down to 15 minutes. Next time you go: check out the following recommedations:

'Welcome To Courtright' .10a/b (Powerdome)
'Captain America' .10a (Penstemon)
'I Wouldn't Want To Be Like You' .10d/.11a (Trapper)
'Tanya Shows Her Stripes' .10 (Tiger Wall)
melski

Trad climber
bytheriver
  Jan 15, 2012 - 10:12pm PT
brother and i worked at the power house at the end of the penstock originating at courtright afew years back and a fishing trip to the resivour blew my mind (long summer/w/bolt kit?)those domes to the north??thanks for the pics,,see ya at the base??
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
  Jan 15, 2012 - 10:46pm PT
I Wouldn't Want To Be Like You....

That still gives me a good laugh!

johntp

Trad climber
socal
  Jan 16, 2012 - 12:17am PT
Can't believe I missed this the first time around. Thanks Crimpster!
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Cathedral Peak - Southeast Buttress 5.6 - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click to Enlarge
One of the finest routes in Tuolumne Meadows.
Photo: Greg Barnes