Trip Report
TEHIPITE frickin' VALLEY
Wednesday August 5, 2015 4:45pm
There is Yosemite Valley, the grandest and most accessible of the typical U-shaped glacial valleys in the Sierra. For those that want easy access but less of a scene there are both Hetch Hetchy and Kings Canyon, though the former is not exactly in it's natural state. For those that desire neither easy access nor fellow visitors there is Tehipite Valley, the poor, ignored, dirty little cousin of the family.

These obscure places are what get me excited so I've wanted to visit since long before I started climbing. With the company of Vitaliy, one of the few people I know who is brave (read: dumb) enough to carry loads to such a place in the heat of the summer, I finally made the trip.


Credit: limpingcrab
Sparing the details on the long walk through the forest, we arrive at the famous view some of you know so well from the internet. Needless to say this is one of the places where pictures to not do justice to the magnitude. From the valley floor to the top of Tehipite Dome is 3,400 feet.

Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab
Down, down, down the 65 switchpacks, 3,500 feet of hot unmaintained trail and out onto the spreading valley floor. With each step Tehipite Dome and the surrounding outcrops become more intimidating. If we had the money or the brains, mules would be carrying our burdens.

Credit: limpingcrab
We pass under the dome, going over stories of it's ascents over the years, from Beckey climbing the upper part to EC Joe going from the valley to the summit to Dave Nettle and friends establishing a behemoth route from the lowest point to the highest.

For some reason we continue past the dome, further up the valley and away from the obvious objective. Because we're brave (re: dumb).

Credit: limpingcrab
Taken from the internet, it's the sun/shade line in the center
Taken from the internet, it's the sun/shade line in the center
Credit: limpingcrab
During an unsuccessful scan for the indian paintings we spot it through the trees, the unnamed, unclimbed, unloved formation overshadowed by the dome in a canyon overshadowed by it's relatives. It rises roughly 2,000 feet above the north side of Crystal Creek below the jagged backside of the Gorge of Despair.

Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab
Tired and dehydrated we set up camp below. I teach Vitaliy to fly fish and relish the fact that I am better than him at something. Until he hooks two within a few minutes. Dinner is served and we're in bed before dark.

Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab
Unfortunately, getting closer does not reduce our apprehensions about what we've gotten ourselves into. Fortunately, Vitaliy's rank farts distract and blur our minds. What, you thought he was smiling because he likes crossing cold rivers in the dark?

Credit: limpingcrab
We arrive at the low point next to what appears to be a weakness in the expanse of slab protecting the headwall. I take the first pitch and it's quick, fun and clean!

Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab
Vitaliy takes both pitches two and three because he is master of the wyde. I personally saw him onsight the big crack at the gym in Fresno! His training turns out to be unnecessary as the crack goes from hands to a clean, sharp lieback.

Credit: limpingcrab
"Alright, I took two, now you get two. It's ok, it looks like thin slab and face, you're better at that anyway." He says.

Flattery, that's not a good sign.

Up an down, side to side I go trying to find a path that settles into a 5.11 scary traverse to a teeny tiny cam placement to thin face and finally I bolt an anchor to give my heart a break. Vitaliy arrives at the belay and I hope he forgot about our deal until he starts handing me the gear. Crap.

The next pitch turns me into a hypocrite. I go straight up off the belay and place a bolt from a decent stance. Then I go up, right, left, left again, up right, all the while cursing as the apparent edges materialize into slopers or nothings. 40 feet later there is another bolt. Again I go up, eying a dike that looks like a good stance. The closer I get the more difficult it becomes to keep my toes from sliding.

"The sun is about to hit, we better get through the hard slab" Vitaliy echoes up.

I continue and my leg is shaking. No. Another move and it's more difficult and my other leg shakes. NO. Another move and my whole body begins shaking like a leaf. I'm desperately hugging the rock, moving my hand from hold to hold in a panic to find some way onto the dike with the rope going 35 feet down and far to the right.

"NO NO NO NO!" I scream at the top of my lungs as I start to slip. I close my eyes, scream, stand up and slap at the dike as a guardian angel gives me a nudge. Somehow I'm shaking and sweating on top of the dike placing the fastest bolt in the history of man. Thankful.

All said and done the pitch has 4 bolts in 40 meters, the exact thing I bash when talking about first ascents. Hypocrite. The difference here is that anyone is welcome to add bolts to the route. In fact, please do!

Credit: limpingcrab
Another pitch up and a traverse right and we're on the big ledge that marks the end of the lower slab. We had invested more time and energy than we wanted but the path to the next ledge looks straightforward.

Credit: limpingcrab
It is, two moderate pitches take us to the huge ledge halfway up and at the bottom of the steep headwall.

Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab
We have some emergency bivy gear and water but because we're beat, dehydrated and behind schedule we decide to stash everything and rap down trees to crystal creek and eventually camp.

As we soaked in the views that night our discussion changed from "what's the best line up this thing?" to "is there any possible way up this thing?"

Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab
The next morning we discover that our rap route is actually a really fun and fast way back to our high point! Nice consolation!

We hunt around the ledge looking for anything that connects. Eventually we say screw it, we came all the way out here, lets go right up the middle and see what happens!

Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab
I take the first pitch and have to stop short due to rope drag, which involves a belay that includes a hook and a nice view of our work the previous day.

Credit: limpingcrab
Vitaliy takes the second pitch of the headwall with a few very difficult moves that do nothing to slow his stoke!

Credit: limpingcrab
The following pitch ascends an easy ramp up and right towards a large corner. The only problem is that according to our binoculars the previous day and my pictures from atop Tehipite Dome the corner ends at a blank face. I decide to pendulum around the corner to a more featured area.

Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab
For the moment this move appears to pay off as Vitaliy traverses right into a pitch of beautiful cracks and a nice ledge on a tower.

Credit: limpingcrab
And this is where it ends... I am about 50 feet up on the 5th pitch of the headwall with the summit looming in the distance, past everything I can free climb, on a stance with nowhere to go but down.

We are neither prepared nor equipped to murder the impossible at this blank spot. Time is running low, theres a long way to go, smoke is starting to fill the valley from a nearby lightning fire and my wife told me "not to do anything stupid."

Credit: limpingcrab
I lower and belay Vitaliy up but he returns with the same conclusion:
-Not enough time
-If we use the few bolts we have on this pitch we won't have enough to bail or continue
-Don't have enough aid gear to follow that path
-Just enough bivy gear and water for an emergency
-Some options are dangerous
-But what about the summit and the glory!?!?!?!?

Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab
We rap down into the night, leaving as little gear as possible and second guessing our decision. What if? But maybe?

The litmus test for my decisions in life has, for a long time, been: Don't do what you want to do, do what you want to remember doing. When applied to climbing this usually means sucking it up, suffering, and having some great memories. Should we have sucked it up? Do we want to force something that may not have even been there? Who knows...

Lots of flies that do not fear 99% DEET
Lots of flies that do not fear 99% DEET
Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab
Spanish Mountain fire
Spanish Mountain fire
Credit: limpingcrab
The hike out the next day was uneventful in that there were no good events. Smoke, flies, 20.5 miles and 5,000 feet of elevation gain took its toll but when it was over we would not have traded this trip for anything!



route
route
Credit: limpingcrab
Postscript:
I understand that I put this on the internet and that we do not own the route or cliff or anything. However, we are already planning our return to try to figure out a way with the help of more time and resources. We would love to finish this project and climb this wall ourselves. I posted this report because we always post successful trips but that's not the norm and I want to keep it real. We also had a great time and love us some spray! That being said, if you plan to go out there to climb this cliff before us we would love to be invited! If not, let us know how it goes and have fun, jerk! ;)


  Trip Report Views: 6,890
limpingcrab
About the Author
limpingcrab is Daniel Jeffcoach, secret's out!

Comments
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Comment on this Trip Report
Stevee B

Trad climber
Oakland, CA
  Aug 5, 2015 - 05:14pm PT
I don't know whether to admire you or pity you heading into that valley this time of year. Great TR, TFPU!
eKat

climber
  Aug 5, 2015 - 05:17pm PT
BITCHEN!
crøtch

climber
  Aug 5, 2015 - 05:18pm PT
Great TR. Love the photos. Makes me want to go to Tehipite.
crankster

Trad climber
No. Tahoe
  Aug 5, 2015 - 05:18pm PT
Great report..what an adventure. And kudos for the good decision making.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Aug 5, 2015 - 05:31pm PT
Nice progress and hump 20.5 miles and 5,000 feet!!
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Aug 5, 2015 - 05:30pm PT
Yous guys are sick, but proud! Good effort.

ps
Nobody warned you about Vitya Bzdyokh?
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
  Aug 5, 2015 - 05:35pm PT
SAAAHWEEET! Beware the hordes of ascending route snaggers... they gunna get ya....

Not.

Seems to me this pretty much ends the argument for closing Yosemite Valley to cars or whatever. Screw Yosemite you purists.. there is another valley awaiting countless FA's

Thanks for sharing such a dream of a place.
looks easy from here

climber
Ben Lomond, CA
  Aug 5, 2015 - 06:12pm PT
It rises roughly 2,000 feet

Pssh, sissy crap. ;)

Awesome looking time. And thanks for sharing that you're at least a bit mortal.
cat t.

climber
california
  Aug 5, 2015 - 06:30pm PT
watch out, fred beckey might get someone to carry him out there and steal your route...

awesome work & even better stoke, as always :)
Gary

Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
  Aug 5, 2015 - 06:31pm PT
Great report. Only seen Tehipite Dome from the top of Mt. Harrington. Looks awesome.

Some Guy once told me, "The decision to turn around is always the correct decision."
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Aug 5, 2015 - 06:33pm PT
This was your high point. It looks ab-so-lutely AMAZING. You shouldn't have walked out of that valley with anything but giddiness in the heart! Though I get the second-guessing as well.



Nice job, fellas.

Only way that you violated your wife's trust about not doing anything stupid was the 20.5mi/5kft with heavy packs on. Stupid fit, stupid strong. Just awesome.

Thanks for posting up!
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
  Aug 5, 2015 - 06:46pm PT
It's all about attitude and your TR says it all-wonderful TR.
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
  Aug 5, 2015 - 06:55pm PT
Can't wait for the sequel!
Timid TopRope

Social climber
the land of Pale Ale
  Aug 5, 2015 - 07:08pm PT
I'm starting to hate that Vitaliy dude. Took me several fly fishing attempts before I actually caught one. ;) Great adventure!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Aug 5, 2015 - 07:30pm PT
Can't wait to return with the same partner! One of the coolest guys out there. Now he knows what it is like to pick a challenging enough objective too!!! Which is an important part of climbing. Picking things that you constantly send is no fun! Next time...we may find a better way. There has to be something...even though it honestly looked blank as f*#k up there.
kief

Trad climber
east side
  Aug 5, 2015 - 07:41pm PT
The music writer Greil Marcus has a column called Real Life Rock. You put him in the shade. Better writing, better rock.
Ken M

Mountain climber
Los Angeles, Ca
  Aug 5, 2015 - 07:43pm PT
Very interesting trip!

I can't help but wonder if this would not be a good year to approach via the 7-mile route ascending the river from King's Canyon, as has been done before in the low fall water? Particularly in such a low water year, it should be much easier than the Spanish Mountain route.
Todd Eastman

climber
Bellingham, WA
  Aug 5, 2015 - 07:50pm PT
Becky is headed up to finish the route...
TMJesse

Mountain climber
Olympia, WA
  Aug 5, 2015 - 07:52pm PT
Totally outstanding! That place is still an obscure and untouched Yosemite Valley, I'm sure. I once visited Simpson Meadow upstream about 10 miles, and it was totally deserted with a faint trail. The relief in the canyon of the Middle Fork of the Kings River is by far the most dramatic anywhere the Sierra, with unmatched remoteness. At 6,000-feet elevation at Simpson amongst cottonwoods, we were surrounded by 12,000-foot snow covered summits, including the formidable "Devils Crags." My uncle, Richard Brown, used to climb with his buddies from Palo Alto at the Gorge of Despair in the 60's. What an awful approach in terms of distance, elevation gain, snakes, bugs, sun and heat. Not for wimps, that's for sure.

How many rattlers did you see? That canyon is their friggen haven.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Aug 5, 2015 - 07:59pm PT
I thought about trying to climb that face with aid about 45 years ago, but the slabs below (and that awful approach) daunted me. At least I now know the truth: I would never have gotten up that slab.

Nice work. I look forward to your next chapter.

John
rincon

climber
Coarsegold
  Aug 5, 2015 - 08:55pm PT
Awesome adventure climbing! Hardcore.
Studly

Trad climber
WA
  Aug 5, 2015 - 09:06pm PT
Infrickincredible!
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
  Aug 5, 2015 - 09:37pm PT
The Bivibros already took care of that stopper blank section :-)

Hats off to you, that kind of mission takes some serious gumption.
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
  Aug 5, 2015 - 09:39pm PT
The total shizz . . . thanks for sharing your awesome adventure.
cragnshag

Social climber
san joser
  Aug 5, 2015 - 09:49pm PT
Strong work fellas. I'm pretty sure you don't have to worry about anyone else working your project. Not many folks willing to go that far out these days. And the few that are will to try find an untouched line of their own.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Aug 5, 2015 - 10:02pm PT
Le_Bruce call me. Lets go steal that FA. I own pack animals and a short-cut. Lets go Thursday. Limpingcrab goes back to school and Vitaliy is scheduled to work one of the eleven days he actually works each year.

#poacherschoice
#spraydontpay
#tehipiteboner
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Aug 5, 2015 - 10:08pm PT
no wonder V looked wasted at the gym today!

bravo for the attempt!
good luck on the return!!
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
  Aug 5, 2015 - 10:17pm PT
Thanks for sharing your adventure
Sometimes the free climbing just ends.
Too bad; it looks like you were close to upper corner systems.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Aug 5, 2015 - 10:23pm PT
The Bivibros already took care of that stopper blank section :-)

Quote of the trip was 'it must be SAFE AND PROUD!' Was proud....but not very safe. ;) Also we did not want to "FORCE" anything up there...which apparently allows for a bolt ladder on top of a pitch that someone already climbed.
Previously unclimbed 300 ft corner to begin a route that will hopefull...
Previously unclimbed 300 ft corner to begin a route that will hopefully be completed...
Credit: Vitaliy M.
Credit: Vitaliy M.
Like 4,500 ft from the valley to the top? Looks 500 ft from here! :)
Like 4,500 ft from the valley to the top? Looks 500 ft from here! :)
Credit: Vitaliy M.
Pink pack matches his eyes
Pink pack matches his eyes
Credit: Vitaliy M.
Credit: Vitaliy M.
Credit: Vitaliy M.
Can't wait to go back!!!

Found something for the Gnome too. It is a hike to get to. But you will have it to yourself brosef.
Credit: Vitaliy M.
Credit: Vitaliy M.
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
  Aug 5, 2015 - 10:27pm PT
Ran into Vitaliy today at the climbing gym. What the f*#k man, dude hikes 42 miles, puts up a bunch of new pitches on some unclimbed monster over 4 days and what does he do the next day? Work a full shift and then go climbing at the gym. Are you doping Vitaliy? You getting the good stuff from Lance Armstrong? Can you hook me up with some!?
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
  Aug 5, 2015 - 10:31pm PT
Ahhhh, the Real Thing.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
  Aug 5, 2015 - 10:34pm PT
So the ropes were just for extra weight? In case things got too easy?
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Aug 5, 2015 - 10:43pm PT
Apparently Daniel beat me to the trip report while I was working hard to prepare for the return trip. What a terrible guy! Should be learning to climb blank walls right now!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Aug 5, 2015 - 11:51pm PT
Credit: Vitaliy M.

Credit: Vitaliy M.

Credit: Vitaliy M.

Credit: Vitaliy M.

Credit: Vitaliy M.

Credit: Vitaliy M.

Credit: Vitaliy M.

Te fking hipite
Te fking hipite
Credit: Vitaliy M.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
  Aug 6, 2015 - 12:55am PT
Credit: Vitaliy M.
Oh my, I thought there might be some of this....
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
  Aug 6, 2015 - 05:56am PT
Great story guys! Enjoyed every word of it. Thanks!

Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
  Aug 6, 2015 - 06:55am PT
Ah, the Mad Russian is at it again. You guys are the best. Wishing you and Crab some serious success next time. Bring more bolts!

BAd
Dingus Milktoast

Trad climber
Minister of Moderation, Fatcrackistan
  Aug 6, 2015 - 07:13am PT
Awesome.

This...

I understand that I put this on the internet and that we do not own the route or cliff or anything. However, we are already planning our return to try to figure out a way with the help of more time and resources. We would love to finish this project and climb this wall ourselves. I posted this report because we always post successful trips but that's not the norm and I want to keep it real. We also had a great time and love us some spray! That being said, if you plan to go out there to climb this cliff before us we would love to be invited! If not, let us know how it goes and have fun, jerk! ;)

Excellent attitude. You do have to let go of these things and nothing says let go like Vitality coming to free your project... ;)

DMT
FRUMY

Trad climber
Bishop,CA
  Aug 6, 2015 - 08:44am PT
Great post.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Aug 6, 2015 - 09:26am PT
Bring more bolts!

Maybe more hooks and balls?! This modern gym-climbin attitude is frowned upon where I am from! (the internet) ;)
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
  Aug 6, 2015 - 09:59am PT
Great Trip Report! The kind of stuff that gets us antsy for the weekend! Thanks for the photos and words! You didn't mention much about the smoke you had to breath from that new fire at the mouth of the Middle Fork of the Kings River. The smoke worked all the way into Tehipite Valley. Here's a pic that our Heli Pilot took the day you guys were hiking the long 5000 foot uphill out of there............Man!!

High over the junction of the Middle Fork of the Kings River.
High over the junction of the Middle Fork of the Kings River.
Credit: Chris T.
W.L.

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
  Aug 6, 2015 - 10:08am PT
whoa whoa whoa, dafuq is this?!

amazing climbing content? stoke? not negativity and politics?

I dig it!!! Thank you for taking the time to tell the tale!
TacomaDome

Trad climber
Tacoma, WA
  Aug 6, 2015 - 10:29am PT
Looks incredible. That super clean corner pictured above looks amazingly fun.
johntp

Trad climber
socal
  Aug 6, 2015 - 12:10pm PT
I'm guessing they dropped the rack.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Sacramento, CA
  Aug 6, 2015 - 12:25pm PT
This is childish! And I LOVE IT!

Ah, V., don't cave to the Reg Route griping. Or do. Hell, I don't know, I can barely french free.

Yes, it's very impressive. I do spurts of hard stuff and I want a day or two off after to really wallow in my shallow pool of glory and allow my hands to unclench so I can take a piss. Bravo, guys! I can't wait to see the next installment where you send!
Reeotch

climber
4 Corners Area
  Aug 6, 2015 - 12:56pm PT
Damn you guys! I'm sitting here seething with envy and jealousy.
WTF, Vitally, don't you have a job? You spend entirely too much time in the Sierra backcountry.
Damn you!
























































But, tfpu, anyways . . .
nopantsben

climber
europe
  Aug 6, 2015 - 01:00pm PT
frickin' awesome!!!

thanks. the hordes are on their way ;-)
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Aug 6, 2015 - 01:11pm PT
F##kin' AAAA Boys!!

Nice work!!

This is the bizness right here. One of the best TR's of the year for sure.


Don't worry, none of us old bastards is going to snatch that plum out of your pocket any time soon........


Jesus called. He said you guys are awesome.
MikeMc

climber
  Aug 6, 2015 - 02:53pm PT
Thanks for the vicarious psyche, and reminding me what mountains look like, during my time in Texas. I really miss public lands...
Travis Haussener

Trad climber
Salt Lake City
  Aug 6, 2015 - 02:09pm PT
TFPU!!!
Aerili

climber
Project Y
  Aug 6, 2015 - 02:43pm PT
Super awesome TR! My favorite part was where you wrote about screaming as you started to slip on the big runout to the dike but then somehow made the move successfully. One time many years ago I was facing a crux move out of a wide crack without the requisite pro and sweating bullets as I also faced a very brutal landing. As I made the move, I literally felt a little push from behind. Not even kidding....
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
  Aug 6, 2015 - 03:31pm PT
That trip and report kicked ass,
well done men!

I could almost smell the tin foil trout. :)

TFPU
Tad
johntp

Trad climber
socal
  Aug 6, 2015 - 03:31pm PT
Thanks for the vicarious psyche, and reminding me what mountains look like, during my time in Texas. I really miss public lands...

Texas sucks in that regard. The longest hike on public land is about 20 yards.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
  Aug 6, 2015 - 04:35pm PT
Outstanding.... TR and Climb and Hike and fly fishing report.

You guys are raising the bar, again!!!

I just love it.

Question, first picture. Is that above the forks of the Kings, Yucca point? Looks like your on the Spanish Mt side. AKA JEEP TRAIL


And Please don't get Vitaliy into Fly Fishing, he will go and catch all the big fish in remote Sierra Streams. Leave that to me, please.

Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Aug 6, 2015 - 05:22pm PT
Way to go boys,
I'm thinking a 20 mile approach will keep it untouched and waiting for your return!
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
  Aug 6, 2015 - 06:09pm PT
Dude, you men just keep taking it to the nexter level. I'm getting a serious armchair stoke from this.
steveA

Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
  Aug 6, 2015 - 06:32pm PT
Real nice TR!

I wouldn't worry about anyone snagging your route. I've made at least 10 trips into an area of the Wind Rivers which requires about 16 miles of hiking. Only seen a total of 10-12 climbers in 45 years.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Author's Reply  Aug 7, 2015 - 02:59pm PT
Thanks for the kind words everyone!

It's understandable to slight the idea that someone else may go out and climb this wall before we return, but a lot of people read this forum and the Dave Nettle's and Brandon Thau's and Peter Crofts of the world are out there lurking!

I don't know whether to admire you or pity you heading into that valley this time of year.
It's not that hot if you're from the Central Valley, 90's is climbing weather!

This was your high point. It looks ab-so-lutely AMAZING.
Right!? I love that picture. Thanks.

I'm starting to hate that Vitaliy dude. Took me several fly fishing attempts before I actually caught one
Go to Tehipite, they asking for it. Middle Fork of the Kings is the only place I've caught native trout over 20"

Can't wait to return with the same partner! One of the coolest guys out there.
Pretty much ;)

I can't help but wonder if this would not be a good year to approach via the 7-mile route ascending the river from King's Canyon
I've considered it and even fished about 3 miles up that river on a few occasions. There are definitely quite a few mandatory crossings though. In the end I figured hiking the extra distance with my head down and mind off would be easier than the full body workout of following a river with really heavy packs.

I once visited Simpson Meadow upstream about 10 miles, and it was totally deserted with a faint trail. The relief in the canyon of the Middle Fork of the Kings River is by far the most dramatic anywhere the Sierra, with unmatched remoteness
That was my first introduction to that canyon as well. It's amazing! It's like going back in time.

I thought about trying to climb that face with aid about 45 years ago, but the slabs below (and that awful approach) daunted me. At least I now know the truth: I would never have gotten up that slab.
Glad you didn't try John, I'm sure you would have made it. Especially if you took that alternate quick approach up the side we did for day two, it avoids all the slab.

#tehipiteboner
If we ever go there together we're not sharing a tent

Ran into Vitaliy today at the climbing gym. What the f*#k man, dude hikes 42 miles, puts up a bunch of new pitches on some unclimbed monster over 4 days and what does he do the next day? Work a full shift and then go climbing at the gym. Are you doping Vitaliy?
Pretty sure he's a robot. It wasn't 24 hours after our return before he texted me about going to another place this weekend. I can still barely walk.

Here's a pic that our Heli Pilot took the day you guys were hiking the long 5000 foot uphill out of there............Man!!
Cool pic rene! That picture justifies our sore throats and headaches after the trudge out of there.

Question, first picture. Is that above the forks of the Kings, Yucca point? Looks like your on the Spanish Mt side. AKA JEEP TRAIL
That's right before the descent into the canyon when we started from the Rancheria trailhead near Wishon. Same impressive canyon, just a few miles upstream!

Out of time for responses, but I enjoyed reading the comments, thanks again! Its funny, when V and I first started posting new routes many of the comments were about how we don't wkow what we're talking about and we should ask around before claiming FA's. Now people seem to believe us, even though we still don't know what we're talking about. Gettin some street cred, braj! Lol!




donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Aug 7, 2015 - 03:24pm PT
Nice going.....long approaches, uncharted granite.....what could be better!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Aug 7, 2015 - 03:31pm PT
Nice going.....long approaches, uncharted granite.....what could be better!

Taking mules, face nets (the only way to prevent millions of little black flies from getting in your eyes), strippers and normal fishing rods. Ok, maybe not strippers, they would prevent me from climbing, but everything else is very legit...a pair of aiders would be nice too...
Flip Flop

climber
Earth Planet, Universe
  Aug 7, 2015 - 04:04pm PT
Sick highpoint photo. Your own Glowering Spot. Absolutely legendary.
ec

climber
ca
  Aug 9, 2015 - 02:38pm PT
Lol, welcome to Tehipite Valley!

 ec
johntp

Trad climber
socal
  Aug 11, 2015 - 08:55am PT
BBST
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
  Aug 12, 2015 - 11:35am PT
Awesome, thanks
SweetCrimp

Big Wall climber
Bay Area
  Aug 12, 2015 - 03:43pm PT
Proud attempt! Good luck with the return!
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
  Aug 21, 2015 - 11:27am PT
Absolutely radical! Kick Azzzz!!!

Hope you guys finish it off. There have to be a some alternate options to the summit.
melski

Trad climber
bytheriver
  Sep 1, 2015 - 05:44pm PT
hey survival,,hesus texed about a line conecting the lower slabs to a headwall corner just a little left,,let the smoke clear,,,and I;m up for it,,
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Sep 1, 2015 - 05:58pm PT
WOW~A !! strong, effort playin' the what if game is only good to motivate for the return , again WOW~A
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Author's Reply  Aug 4, 2016 - 12:21pm PT
Two hours until we hit the road to give this big boy another shot! Hopefully a follow up TR with a happy ending will come sometime next week. More time, more gear, more people and more knowledge of the area should be enough to get us to the summit!

Please wish us luck and thanks for the kind comments on this TR!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Aug 4, 2016 - 12:31pm PT
Luck wishing begun!
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Aug 4, 2016 - 12:50pm PT
As I said a year ago, Daniel, I'm looking forward to Chapter Two of your report. Best of luck to you.

John
kingtut

Social climber
carmel, ca
  Aug 4, 2016 - 01:50pm PT
Good luck guys, stay safe. Been there done that....but not that route of course...wish the gym crowd realized how much stone there really is out there and got off their buts like you guys! :D

First ascents for a thousand years...
Jeremy Ross

Gym climber
  Aug 4, 2016 - 02:28pm PT
And plenty of Bosch's!!!

Right?
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Author's Reply  Aug 4, 2016 - 03:05pm PT
We're bringing a compressor and 1000 bolts. I don't think that's ever been tried before.
ag.Fox

Trad climber
Clovis, CA
  Jun 6, 2017 - 11:38am PT
bump! Tehipite daydreams
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