Trip Report
TEHIPITE VALLEY PART II: the biggest unclimbed wall in California
Monday August 15, 2016 11:43am
Well maybe it's not, I don't know. We've been thinking of it that way since our attempt last Summer just to build our excitement and motivation for the inevitable return.

This is a follow up to a trip report from last Summer when we bailed about 2/3 of the way up the wall.
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/TEHIPITE-frickin-VALLEY/t12804n.html

In the last few days, while I've been waiting for my hands to start working again, Vitaliy wrote a great trip report full of pictures and detailed accounts of some of the more memorable moments.
http://vividrea1ity.blogspot.com/2016/08/fa-watsi-wall-infinity-pool-vi-511-a2-r.html?m=1

For those of us with shorter attention spans I am going to take the "less is more" approach and try to recount this latest adventure in as few words as possible. Starting...........now

----------------------------------------------


Before trip, very sick, lose weight, not strong. Nervous. Vitaliy and Brian strong like ox, confident.

Credit: limpingcrab
Heavy bags, far walk, sleep half way.

Credit: Brian
Credit: Vitaliy
Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: Vitaliy
Beyond words. Like going back in time. Brian's first time, moving like kid in cocaine store.

Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: Vitaliy
Credit: Brian
Think wall grew bigger. Uh oh

Credit: Vitaliy
Credit: Brian
Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab
Fish. Eat. Relax. Happy.

Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab
Jumanji giant dinosaur bugs everywhere! 2 rattlesnakes.

Credit: Vitaliy
Credit: limpingcrab
First day, simulclimb easy alternate start.

Credit: limpingcrab
Stash water. Laugh some, talk some, poop some.

Credit: limpingcrab
Rap rap rrrraaaappppp.

Sleep. Me anxious, want easy start. Brian and V excited, want direct start. Majority win.

Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: Brian
Credit: Brian
Credit: limpingcrab
Sunrise. I go first, big fun!

Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab
Next pitches scary. PTSD and stained underwear last year. Brian leads, thank you Brian.

Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab
4 more pitch. I lead easy, they lead hard, great climbing. On big ledge quick! Stoke!

Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: Vitaliy
V lead hard, Brian follow, me jug with water. Anchor sketchy, life flash before eyes.

Credit: Vitaliy
Credit: limpingcrab
Me lead. Pendulum.

Credit: limpingcrab
Vitaliy lead hand cracks. Good stuff.

Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab
13 pitches, former high point, hopes high!

Credit: Vitaliy
Brian try where I fail.
"Corner looks blank. This is f-ed up. I'm just gonna f-ing go for it, watch me!" Brian quote. Solid. Love Brian.

Credit: Brian
Credit: limpingcrab
New high point, yay team!

Credit: Brian
I try right. Nope.

Credit: limpingcrab
Brian try up. Maybe.

Credit: limpingcrab
Dark.

Credit: limpingcrab
Morning spoon.

Credit: limpingcrab
Me lonely.

Credit: limpingcrab
Brian aid. Loose rock. Vitaliy hide.

Credit: Brian
Vitaliy survive, bye bye bivvy!

Credit: Vitaliy
Harding slot, tree edition. Sorry guys.

Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab
Water look yummy. Vitaliy thirsty. Daniel thirsty. Brian meth?

Credit: limpingcrab
Climbing good!

Credit: Vitaliy
Credit: Vitaliy
Caving

Credit: Vitaliy
Credit: Vitaliy
So close. Taste it.

Credit: Vitaliy
Credit: Vitaliy
Credit: limpingcrab
Holy crap. Bliss. Wow.
91 miles walked
9 days over two summers
21 pitches (totaling 3000+ ft of climbing)
2100 ft vertical
Thirsty, hungry, tired, emotions.... Happy

Credit: Brian
Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: Brian
Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab
Descend. Ahhhhhh, water. Nudity.

Rest.

Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: Vitaliy
Bad hot trail. Long. Satisfaction. Home.

Unforgettable.


Credit: limpingcrab
Red = route
Yellow = easier variations

Formation: Watsi Wall (watsi means "lost" in Mono)
Route: Infinity Pool, 5.11+ R A2, 21 pitches, VI


Special thanks to Vitaliy and Brian for being the best partners possible. They're both a rare combination of bad A mofos yet still really kind and patient when there's a weak link in the group.

Another special thanks to Norm who hiked in the day before us and carried our entire rack and a set of runners, left them at the campsite, fished and hiked back out. Norm is the man.

Thanks for reading and sorry that abbreviated text turned into caveman talk!










  Trip Report Views: 4,749
limpingcrab
About the Author
limpingcrab is Daniel Jeffcoach, nice to meet you.

Comments
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Comment on this Trip Report
Bascuela

Trad climber
Fresno, CA
  Aug 15, 2016 - 11:57am PT
wow!
G_Gnome

Trad climber
Cali
  Aug 15, 2016 - 11:59am PT
Love the caveman talk. Makes more sense to us cavemen this way. Congrats and EPIC!
EdwardT

Trad climber
Retired
  Aug 15, 2016 - 12:05pm PT
Kickass trip report on a kickass climb.
Gunkie

Trad climber
Valles Marineris
  Aug 15, 2016 - 12:36pm PT
BINGO! That's what I'm talking about. Nicely done!
looks easy from here

climber
Ben Lomond, CA
  Aug 15, 2016 - 12:44pm PT
Tehipite frickin' AWESOME!
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
  Aug 15, 2016 - 12:53pm PT
Me think great.
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
  Aug 15, 2016 - 12:54pm PT
Way to bring home the mammoth. Nice pics too.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Aug 15, 2016 - 01:00pm PT
Excellent, Daniel!

John
Studly

Trad climber
WA
  Aug 15, 2016 - 01:04pm PT
Burly
HighDesertDJ

Trad climber
  Aug 15, 2016 - 01:04pm PT
Top notch. A really great adventure. Thanks for sharing!
crankster

Trad climber
No. Tahoe
  Aug 15, 2016 - 01:10pm PT
Great! Short is sweet.
craig morris

Trad climber
la
  Aug 15, 2016 - 01:13pm PT
Thanks for the great trip report. That valley is a magical place. did you find the natural house?
Nanobody

Trad climber
Fresno, CA
  Aug 15, 2016 - 01:18pm PT
Way to go! You guys are the real deal!
Slym

climber
Merced, CA
  Aug 15, 2016 - 01:35pm PT
Freaking nice fishing spot.

Climb is cool too, I guess.

Killer report.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
  Aug 15, 2016 - 01:47pm PT
Way to Go.

TFPU
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
  Aug 15, 2016 - 02:28pm PT
Nice pics.....a little short on facts ie # of bolts,ratings of pitches and topo !
SFDukie

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Aug 15, 2016 - 03:13pm PT
This TR brought a huge smile to my face. Fantastic adventure-thanks for sharing.
Stewart Johnson

Mountain climber
lake forest
  Aug 15, 2016 - 03:14pm PT
Way to be.
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
  Aug 15, 2016 - 03:30pm PT
Sweet!
TFPU
Tad
kingtut

Social climber
carmel, ca
  Aug 15, 2016 - 04:04pm PT
Strong work. :)
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Author's Reply  Aug 15, 2016 - 04:19pm PT
Thanks for the great trip report. That valley is a magical place. did you find the natural house?
We didn't find the house or the pictographs. It wasn't until we got home that we noticed they were both marked on our map. Next time!

Freaking nice fishing spot.

Climb is cool too, I guess.

Killer report.
And I didn't even mention that I was trying to land a nice fish for dinner when a huge german brown ate it and broke my line! We watched the whole thing happen. That gave me a bigger rush than the climbing!

Nice pics.....a little short on facts ie # of bolts,ratings of pitches and topo !
Vitaliy's blog report has a lot more detail but I don't think any of us has drawn a topo.

moacman

Trad climber
Montuckyian Via Canada Eh!
  Aug 15, 2016 - 04:17pm PT
Well done .......Thanx for sharing...

Stevo
Climberdude

Trad climber
Clovis, CA
  Aug 15, 2016 - 04:22pm PT
Very nice, I will have to get back there sometime. I hope you will report this in the AAJ.
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
  Aug 15, 2016 - 04:31pm PT
Wow! Thanks for goin' big and keeping the report short so I don't derail my work productivity :)
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Aug 15, 2016 - 05:09pm PT
Limpingcrab, Vitaliy and Brian P trying to put together a trip report ...
Limpingcrab, Vitaliy and Brian P trying to put together a trip report after the expedition
Credit: micronut


Me like.

You brave.

Make new route. Long walk. Trout, yum. Me very proud to call you friend.
Cragman

Trad climber
Mammoth and SLO.....Life is Good!!!
  Aug 15, 2016 - 05:22pm PT
Looks stupendous, Daniel! Good on you guys for getting after it....and sticking with it!

Hardship pays off....and makes the victory so much sweeter!

Great TR....TFPU!!!!!

Cheers,
DR
kief

Trad climber
east side
  Aug 15, 2016 - 07:00pm PT
Less is more! Awesome report. TFPU.
PotatoHead

Trad climber
Nunya,ID
  Aug 15, 2016 - 07:06pm PT
The Sierra is the best round these parts. You guys are farming gold nuggets
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
  Aug 15, 2016 - 08:52pm PT
Awesome report. Thanks for reminding me that I wasted my youth.
ec

climber
ca
  Aug 15, 2016 - 09:58pm PT
Oh, Yeah! I got pics o' that...Good Job!


 ec
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
  Aug 16, 2016 - 07:56am PT
Wow, what a great adventure. I'm gonna go make the second ascent ..... said nobody ever.

I think you've been hanging around with that Russian guy too much, you're leaving behind all your articles in your writing.

Vitaliy's watermarks are slowly shrinking. C'mon Vitaliy, smaller still, you can do it.

See you guys in Yosemite in September/October?

Cheers and congrats!

P.S. Nice rainbow trout, eh?
Dingus Milktoast

Trad climber
Minister of Moderation, Fatcrackistan
  Aug 16, 2016 - 07:57am PT
Bad ass!

DMT
dirt claud

Social climber
san diego,ca
  Aug 16, 2016 - 08:21am PT
Awesome trip report Limp, thanks. Looks like a memorable adventure
with solid partners. Killing me, gotta get back out to those beautiful mountains.
Rockies Obscure

Trad climber
rockiesobscure.com....Canada
  Aug 16, 2016 - 09:45am PT
Awesome!

This is what Supertopo once was, now it's only a long daily fight between the Right and Left parties.
FRUMY

Trad climber
Bishop,CA
  Aug 16, 2016 - 10:08am PT
TFPU
O.D.

Trad climber
LA LA Land
  Aug 16, 2016 - 11:04am PT
Wow! Some real-life climbing history made. Yes, Holy Crap!
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Aug 16, 2016 - 11:31am PT
By the way, you need to work on your camera tilt Brah. Here you go. Now you're gnar.

Always tilt.  The masses want to see the radness not slabness bruh!
Always tilt. The masses want to see the radness not slabness bruh!
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Author's Reply  Aug 16, 2016 - 11:38am PT
Good to know Mico. I think I get it.

Credit: limpingcrab
Like this?
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
  Aug 16, 2016 - 12:12pm PT
That's a bold route. Nice!
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Aug 16, 2016 - 03:35pm PT
Oh my god this is killer
Ney Grant

Trad climber
Pollock Pines
  Aug 16, 2016 - 03:39pm PT
Very impressive accomplishment and great TR!
Gobie

Trad climber
Northern, Ca.
  Aug 16, 2016 - 07:03pm PT
I remember catching some stellar trout on a ski pole with a spinner in Crown creek and having a great dinner out there. This crag has been on my mind for some time. Great to see someone else has the juice to go out there and bag it. The views up the canyon from the face of Tehipite remind us of how much stone is left un-turned in the Sierra.

Im interested in going on a recon trip in September and doing some fly fishing if anyone else is interested. I have been down in there a few times and have completed a couple of routes so I know my way around. PM me.
JerryA

Mountain climber
Sacramento,CA
  Aug 17, 2016 - 08:08am PT
There used to be lot's of rattlesnakes mentioned in past reports . Any this time ? The summit is a day-and-half hike from Wishon Reservoir ,has anyone rapped the Dome ?
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Author's Reply  Aug 17, 2016 - 10:20am PT
Im interested in going on a recon trip in September and doing some fly fishing if anyone else is interested. I have been down in there a few times and have completed a couple of routes so I know my way around. PM me.
My brother and I tried to line up a September date for fishing but it didn't work out. We're gonna go in the third weekend of October and fish from Tehipite down to the confluence with the South Fork at Yucca Point. We'd prefer September but maybe we'll get lucky and find some fall spawning browns. (PM function hasn't worked for me the last 5 times I've tried)

There used to be lot's of rattlesnakes mentioned in past reports . Any this time ? The summit is a day-and-half hike from Wishon Reservoir ,has anyone rapped the Dome ?
Brian saw a big one, Vitaliy saw a little one and I never saw one. I've hiked to the top of the dome but never rapped it. I think about half of the people who climb Tehipite approach from above. I'm pretty sure the new(ish) route Wall Of Ages can be rapped.

Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Aug 17, 2016 - 10:22am PT
pHfft1 pHfffft.!!!!!
doble hit worthy respect!!!!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Aug 17, 2016 - 01:29pm PT
Thank you for a great time and a great reminder of how mindblowing this trip was (in form of this report). Aside from funny, Daniel is very modest and although he acts like he did not do much on the climb, it is a lie. I believe it was a team effort and everyone contributed. Was an honor to be a part of this and be friends with you two, hope we find a few more of these gems and share adventures like this for years. Again, thank you!!!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Aug 17, 2016 - 01:55pm PT
Natural house? Are you talking about the giant rock with a bivy cave underneath?

Would be nice to make a topo and post it on MP. Not sure anyone will ever repeat it, but honestly the climb is fairly good with challenging climbing. Wouldn't be too surprised if it is repeated, someone just did the second ascent of the route I recently did on Hitchcock and two ascents last weekrnd of one of the recent Whitney routes.
If I did not have a virus on my computer and was not busy with ongoing backcountry outings, I'd make one. But my only rest day in town (today) will be spent mostly relaxing and preparing to get back into the mountains, tomorrow! Maybe the fall or winter will be a better time to catch up on figuring out what the hell did we climb. :)
shylock

Social climber
mb
  Aug 17, 2016 - 02:00pm PT
Yup, Amazing time, place, climb, group. General mood after we got down was disbelief it all worked out. From the blank seams to the amount of water to the mini canyoneering descent. So much unknown. Honestly guys still can't believe it. Thanks

Brian
SteveO

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
  Sep 7, 2016 - 09:17pm PT
Thank you so much for the incredible TR! And for reminding us all that there's still so much adventure left in places like the Sierra, if you're creative and willing to explore. I'm thoroughly impressed and inspired. Thank you
i-b-goB

Social climber
Wise Acres
  Sep 7, 2016 - 09:21pm PT
Way to finish up!
RichS

Mountain climber
Pleasanton, CA
  Sep 8, 2016 - 09:05am PT
Awesome report and photos. Thank you
timmaly

Trad climber
Menlo Park, CA
  Sep 9, 2016 - 06:52pm PT
WOW, awesome! Great work and TFPU.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Author's Reply  Oct 20, 2016 - 01:01pm PT
Well, I went back to Tehipite again. Apparently my memory of approaches is poor. This time the pack were a little lighter since it was strictly a fishing trip.

Anyone who's interested in that sort of thing can read the TR here:
http://www.highsierratopix.com/community/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=15179

I've learned a lot about fishing from that website so I was hoping to contribute there, and it's not a climbing trip after all, though it might have been just as tiring :)


Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Jun 6, 2017 - 12:33pm PT
Bump thread.

Tehipite season starts when?
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
  Jun 6, 2017 - 01:15pm PT
Just re-read Vittles' blogpost. Some gems that stand out for me:

fake excitement is better than honest hopelessness.

heaven is here, on earth. Along with hell. It is a personal choice for most individuals, although not all, which one to move forward. Concentrating on the negativity of the daily grind won't get you closer to a place like Crystal Creek, so choose your Infinity Pool wisely.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Author's Reply  Jun 12, 2017 - 12:42pm PT
Tehipite season starts when?
The road to Wishon opened so Tehipite season starts now! Well, the river is currently nuts so that's something to consider.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Jun 12, 2017 - 12:48pm PT
Do you have to cross the river to get to reach Tehipite? Or does it just mean we don't get to eat fresh trout?

limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Author's Reply  Jun 12, 2017 - 02:57pm PT
You have to cross it to reach this wall, but not to reach Tehipite Dome. You do have to cross Crown Creek if you don't take the rap route into Tehipite. Some say it can't be crossed in spring but they're just sissies :)
Jeremy Ross

Gym climber
  Jun 12, 2017 - 03:03pm PT
Nice!

Take that Honnold
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