Sun Ribbon Arete 5.10a

 
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Temple Crag


High Sierra, California USA


Trip Report
Sun Ribbon: micro TR
Thursday October 16, 2008 3:44am
This micro TR is a gateway and a calling out, to motivate my partner Scott to deliver on his solemn oath to write up the day on Sun Ribbon Arete.



Wake up, climb a bunch, and identify your Tyrolean opportunity:



Get your aim on:



Heave! Note: a flying octo-cluster as seen here is not a good sign:



Miss! The darkest of wrist magic arts couldn't turn this scene into a good Tyro snag (took us three tries):



Onward through the glory of the line you've chosen:



The summit awaits, cold, windy, star-streaked. Sunset's last burn throwing the Palisades into silhouette, better motor, but how can you not linger.



Ok Scott, what did I leave out? Ha.


  Trip Report Views: 1,124
le_bruce
About the Author
le_bruce is a climber from Oakland: what's not to love?.

Comments
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Mike.

climber
  Oct 16, 2008 - 04:05am PT
Very cool report. Bravo!
Strider

Trad climber
ಠ_ಠ
  Oct 16, 2008 - 03:49pm PT
Wait a minute...are you saying that you did a Tyrolean across that gap and the way you set it up was to toss the rope across and hope that it snags on the other side? Now thats crazy...

-n
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Oct 16, 2008 - 04:22pm PT
Yes strider, toss and pray is the key strategy.

I have a half-written report, been sucked into the work zone lately... and the main times I have free to work on it I'm opting for climbing instead! But it will come.

Unfortunately, we weren't facing certain death as on Hawkman's Escape, so I'll have to inject some hyperbole to keep it interesting. Then we can play Nutjob's Believe it or Knott (tm).
salad

Big Wall climber
  Oct 16, 2008 - 04:23pm PT
good stuff, cool shirt.
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
  Oct 16, 2008 - 04:34pm PT
Very cool. I love the shot of the rope flying mid air! (Now I need to go back and check out the shirt too).
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
  Oct 16, 2008 - 04:35pm PT
'Octo-clusters' are the worst....

micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Oct 16, 2008 - 04:41pm PT
Amazing route. Nice summit shot. That place scares me. Cant wait to get on it someday. Well done. Thanks for the report.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
Author's Reply  Oct 16, 2008 - 05:30pm PT

Thanks guys, and ok Scott you're off the hook for now.

Micronut, I'm with you. I was in a sustained state of low-level anxiety and fear for most of the day, not sure why. When we finally hit the sleeping bags that night, every time I closed my eyes and started falling asleep I found myself on-route again, pulling off loose blocks, falling. Then I'd snap wide awake in my bag, slowly drowse off, repeat. Like those dreams where you're on a skateboard, you hit a pebble that jams up your wheel, you pitch forward in the dream - and then bang, a shot of adrenaline makes you jump up in bed trying to keep your teeth off the asphalt.

Residual adrenaline I guess - couldn't shake it for a long time that night. Made for good if manic star watching.

spyork

Trad climber
Tunneling out of prison
  Oct 16, 2008 - 05:34pm PT
Scott,

You must make it look scarier, so that I will cross it off my tic list.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
Maestro, Ecosystem Ministry, Fatcrackistan
  Dec 2, 2011 - 11:17am PT
I climbed the Sun Ribbon in a awesome day in the mtns with my buddy kb (kb you still out there?)

We did it in 10 simul-pitches. We avoided the tyrolean by rapping into the notch and climbing the easy but steep and poorly protected wall to its left. I also inadvertently robbed kb of the crux lead by climbing right past it, lol. He was somewhat miffed by it but topping out by 1 PM was its own reward.

Its worth doing, Tyrolean or not.

DMT
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Dec 2, 2011 - 12:14pm PT
Credit: mike m
Isn't that why they make grappling hooks.
oldtopangalizard

Social climber
ca
  Dec 3, 2011 - 10:32pm PT
Nice job on the toss. We did it in '84 and I remember it took 26 tries to hook the horn. Damn fun time. Slept on top, got down only to find one of the others chowing on my breakfast. He just looked at me and said, 'I didn't think you were coming down'.
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Temple Crag - Sun Ribbon Arete 5.10a - High Sierra, California USA. Click to Enlarge
The route as seen from Second Lake.
Photo: SP Parker
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The route as seen from Second Lake.