Serenity Crack 5.10d
Trip ReportSerenity-Sons attempt to rim (Photo TR)
Last weekend Nutjob and I reaped the benefits once again of this bizarro-winter we’re having.
Having done Serenity to Sons multiple times (I think eight trips up between the two of us), we thought why not do it again? Then Nutjob guessed we should try to take it to the rim and see what’s up with the last three or four pitches.
We left Oakland around 4:15 and were parking at the Ahwahnee by 8:00, having taken the long way to avoid the Brunhilda boulder that’d made sport of the 120 a week earlier.
On the approach we could tell that we were going to be first on route, which is strange for a warm Saturday morning.
Not sure what to do about rack for the lesser-known topout pitches, we just took an extra #3 and a #4.
P1, the weirdest pitch of the day, never sure if it's great or good, or what the deal is, but eventually you hit the anchor either way:
P2 was my favorite pitch this time, though usually my favorite pitch is the first real pitch of Sons:
P2’s sweet crack change in 4 pics:
Bolt patch job on the p2 anchor:
Top bit of p2:
Looking down at same:
Scott wanted a rematch on p3, this time just placing a good cam from the stance and firing for the ledge. Worked out well. (Edit: there are 4 cams stuck in the left crack more or less where Scott is in this pic.)
We linked some through the next hand pitches, which are incredible. Pretty soon we were at the top ST anchor, where on the ST topo the scrawled words “Don’t even think about it” point up.
First pitch off of the anchor had some moderate runout face to a new-looking bolt, then a mantle to the tree in the second pic, then an extremely flakey/dirty traverse to a rounded corner system and a belay in a bay bush:
Moderate face with new bolt:
Climbing out of that evil bush to start the next pitch:
We eventually got up close enough to the rim that we felt like we could touch it, but decided to pull the plug and rap.
We cut this tat, which was digging into the pine’s bark:
Replaced with this, so easy raps for anyone else who wants to continue up:
We had a few hours more of daylight, but with only one headlamp and one set of walkable shoes between us, the descent was going to be more than we wanted. We could have rapped from the rim back to the ST top anchor, but those upper pitches are loose and dirty, and we didn’t want to be pulling ropes and sending down all kids of widowmakers onto the popular pitches below.
We’ll go back and finish it some time, it seems worth it, and will probably walk down the N. Dome gully, or rap the RA raps, or make a scenic day of it and hike out the Falls trail.
On the way up above the last ST anchor for Sons, I saw what looked like a new anchor one pitch up a separate crack system that splits the face above the dead tree. The anchor is just below the bush on the upper left in this picture:
Anyone know what this is? That crack line, though overgrown, looked a lot better than the stuff we were climbing. Wonder if it also goes to the rim?
Bonus tree update: the belay stance tree on top of Sons p1 is looking spindlier than ever. How does that guy manage to cling on season after season…
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