Sons of Yesterday, Royal Arches Area 5.10a
Avg time to climb route: 3-3.5 hours
Approach time: 2-3 hours
Descent time: 1 hour
Number of pitches: 5
Height of route: 500'
OverviewBeautifully clean, sustained and exposed, this is a proud tick. The climbing is mostly straight-in jams with the occasional face moves. Unlike Serenity Crack, this line is free of pin scars. However, be prepared for a few tenuous sections of sloping pods and insecure moves.
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StrategyA fair number of parties rappel after Serenity Crack, tending to reduce the traffic on Sons. However, unless you are one of the first groups up, the parties rapping down on you can be annoying and time consuming. It’s easy and common to be hit by pulled ropes and more than a few climbers have come away with rope burns from descending parties. Serenity requires many smaller cams; Sons requires many medium to hand-sized protection.
The 5.10a second pitch can be more of a challenge than even the crux pitch of Serenity if you are not strong on off-fingers, slightly flared jamming. The perfect hand crack on this takes only 1-1.25” protection for about 60-70 feet. While the bomber hands allow most to comfortably run the pitch out, only two 2” cams will prevent a huge fall.
The key to the first 5.10a pitch is to stay calm, concentrate on your feet and trust the often tenuous off-finger jams. The bulk of this pitch requires endurance with its steep thin hands and hands. To negotiate the crux, the offwidth bypass, move left on slippery 5.10a fa... [full history for SuperTopo members only!]
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