Serenity Crack 5.10d

  • Currently 5.0/5

Royal Arches Area

Yosemite Valley, California USA

Trip Report
Serenity/Sons, Is It Wrong? (Photo TR)
Tuesday September 17, 2013 12:30am
Is it wrong to repeat.

Does there come a time when you need to let go of a climb you love, and commit yourself to the idea of not repeating it anymore.

If you only get 15 or so days in the Valley each year, is it wrong.

Sixth time, seventh time up the route - wrong?

You promised yourself you'd finally do the E Butt of LCR this time. You fell asleep thinking about the Fissure Beck. And then suddenly, it is dawn and you are leading up p1 of Serenity.

How did this happen.

Whole formations you've never climbed on, and yet you go back. What about Lost Brother? What about Quarter Dome? Watkins Pinnacles? What about those multi-pitch lines over in Sentinel Creek? The Joker, The Thief, that stuff up by Bridalveil? That .10c on Fifi Buttress? That entire ziplock full of obscure topos that ablegabel sent you a few years ago? You told yourself you'd check out that Skywalk approach to Snake Dike, that sounded amazing. You went to Little Wing once and swore you'd go back. You wrote down notes on Fireside Bluff. And yet it's early morning and you're on the Serenity-Sons linkup again?

Wake up, man, wake up.

Remember that Obscurity Scale that Hartouni was talking about. You were into that idea once, you had vision once. You wanted to explore, bushwhack through endless layers of bay leaves, pull down on hummocks, repeat all Barry Bates 5.10s, all Chuck Pratt 5.9s, climb that Elliot Robinson route up right of the Porcelain Wall... You used to spend hours zooming in and out on X-Rez, and now? Motherf*#king Sunset Ledge again.

When you get home and your wife asks, you avert your eyes, you kick at the floor, "No, I can't say whether the route finding on the upper pitches of the East Butt of LCR was cryptic..." She takes a deep breath. "You didn't..." Snaps fingers. "le_bruce, look at me god damn you... You didn't go back to her did you?"

Is it wrong?

"Every form of addiction is bad, no matter whether the narcotic be alc...
"Every form of addiction is bad, no matter whether the narcotic be alcohol, morphine or idealism. Or Serenity-Sons.
Credit: le_bruce

  Trip Report Views: 2,442
About the Author
le_bruce is a climber from Oakland: what's not to love?.

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Comment on this Trip Report

Trad climber
Orem, Utah
  Sep 17, 2013 - 12:40am PT
"Damn you, You didn't go back to her did you?" LOL
Great pictures, makes me want to try it out. Living in Utah I don't get to Yosemite too often. I also love to repeat routes, especially ones this great.

Trad climber
Northern California
  Sep 17, 2013 - 12:43am PT
Definitely up for one of the best of the year reports for creativity. Thanks for this.

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Sep 17, 2013 - 12:58am PT
If it's wrong, I don't want to be right.

Gym climber
  Sep 17, 2013 - 01:06am PT
I thought this one was so crowded no one climbs it anymore.

  Sep 17, 2013 - 01:12am PT
Love le_bruce TR's !

Always unique.

Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
  Sep 17, 2013 - 01:58am PT
If it's wrong, why does it feel so right? :-)
I've done it many times, too. I only feel bad when there are people waiting behind me (which is often, unfortunately).

Be sure you get over and do Mr. Natural several times, too, though.

Trad climber
going big air to fakie
  Sep 17, 2013 - 02:40am PT
No not wrong, def not wrong!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Sep 17, 2013 - 02:49am PT
my addictions are all fed by visiting friends... I'm ready to do any route they want, or I deem that they might enjoy if they ask for a recommendation...

...I get to be here all the time, they visit briefly and infrequently, so I'm ready to repeat for them... it's all I can do.

15 times a year, ever talk to someone from Germany on the Royal Arches that are on their second visit in their lifetime, probably their last visit?... why were we on that route? because a friend wanted to see how to do it in less than 3 hours... having never done it in less than 8 hours... on a quick one day trip in the middle of the week.

We're lucky, we get to do it all the time...

...stop worrying about it and go get on some of those other projects!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Sep 17, 2013 - 06:09am PT
It is VERY WRONG. ;)
That is what makes it so fun!!!
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
  Sep 17, 2013 - 07:57am PT
Too funny, I always wondered about golfers sanity heading out to the same course weekend after weekend hitting that little white ball into the same 18 holes. Well, there you go it appears the "course" has claimed more than just golfers. Love those routes and hope to repeat them for as long as I can.


Charlie D.
David Wilson

  Sep 17, 2013 - 09:19am PT
Great TR Bryce !

For every repeat you get to run it out more

  Sep 17, 2013 - 09:32am PT
Very, Very GOOD ONE!

Ian Jewell

  Sep 17, 2013 - 10:40am PT
i'm with ya , 11 times for me

keys to a happy life :

serenity sons, steck salathe , solo royal arches , rinse , repeat .

jump in the river , nap in the meadow , have sex , rinse , repeat .

oh yeah , pick blackberries on the way to chongo's office , eat em up , now total happiness is in effect .

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Sep 17, 2013 - 10:34am PT
"Hi....My name is Le_Bruce....."

Crowd in unison: "Hi Le_Bruce..."

"My name is Le_Bruce....and I am in love with a trade route and its affecting my ability to seek new terrain, to get poison oak and to have unexpected bivvies....and I really want it to end"

Hugs all around.

  Sep 17, 2013 - 11:10am PT

all too true!

Trad climber
Carson City Nevada
  Sep 17, 2013 - 11:20am PT
Great! loved it.

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
  Sep 17, 2013 - 12:40pm PT
Absolutely lovely.

But like I always say... why choose when you can have both?

I don't see pictures from the rim yet... Awahnee Buttress still beckons you upward, and you are in denial about it, and that's why you can't stop yourself from going back!


Trad climber
Hustle City
  Sep 17, 2013 - 12:48pm PT
Great report. Fantasmic climb!

Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
  Sep 17, 2013 - 01:26pm PT
You MUST be the man that can tell me precisely and in order what pro I need. Let me rack up efficiently under your guidance.

Nice - I have my addictions, too.

Social climber
  Sep 17, 2013 - 01:29pm PT

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Sep 17, 2013 - 01:31pm PT
"The sign of a true mountaineer is the willingness to repeat routes." What's wrong with repeating one of the best? The only thing that would have been wrong would be not posting this excellent trip report.

Thanks much.

Ian Jewell

  Sep 17, 2013 - 01:47pm PT
i think Dr. Nutagain has diagnosed your disorder expertly .
his prescrption should be filled and administered.

Trad climber
  Sep 17, 2013 - 01:50pm PT
So wrong it's right

Social climber
Truckee, CA
  Sep 17, 2013 - 01:51pm PT
Hilarious! I can relate too :)

  Sep 17, 2013 - 02:02pm PT
The heart wants what the heart wants.

Great TR. Thanks!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Sep 17, 2013 - 02:07pm PT
LOL I think it is a little wrong : ) You listed a lot of places that beg to be checked out and climbed!

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
  Sep 17, 2013 - 02:55pm PT
Great Stuff!

But you know you are going up to see her again


Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  Sep 17, 2013 - 02:59pm PT
Repeat Glory!

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Sep 17, 2013 - 03:39pm PT
The harlot from Proverbs Chapter 7

"For at the window of my house I have looked out through my lattice, and I have seen among the simple, I have perceived among the youths, a young man without sense, passing along the street near her corner, taking the road to her house in the twilight, in the evening, at the time of night and darkness. And lo, a woman meets him, dressed as a harlot, wily of heart. She is loud and wayward, her feet do not stay at home; now in the street, now in the market, and at every corner she lies in wait. She seizes him and kisses him, and with impudent face she says to him: 'I had to offer sacrifices, and today I have paid my vows; so now I have come out to meet you, to seek you eagerly, and I have found you. I have decked my couch with coverings, colored spreads of Egyptian linen; I have perfumed my bed with myrrh, aloes, and cinnamon. Come, let us take our fill of love till morning; let us delight ourselves with love. For my husband is not at home; he has gone on a long journey; he took a bag of money with him; at full moon he will come home.'

"With much seductive speech she persuades him; with her smooth talk she compels him. All at once he follows her, as an ox goes to the slaughter, or as a stag is caught fast till an arrow pierces its entrails; as a bird rushes into a snare; he does not know that it will cost him his life."

Oakland, CA
Author's Reply  Sep 17, 2013 - 06:15pm PT
That captures it, Micro, it really does. My partner caught this moment of mine after we pulled the rope on the last rap:

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