Regular Route 5.9

 
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Fairview Dome


Tuolumne Meadows, California USA


Trip Report
Perfect climb on Fairview (August 6, 2011)
Wednesday August 10, 2011 6:05pm
We got to the base at 10:30 AM and found that there was one party already on the first pitch. Another party was waiting in line. Two more parties came after we got in line. The conditions were perfect, gentle breeze and not a cloud in the sky. That party ahead of us got to the optional belay (200’ ft from the ground) and decided to bail. We had the recommended gear and a 60m rope.
Waiting at the start.
Waiting at the start.
Credit: anilk

Pitch 1 - Slip’n Slide: 5.9 polished section is challenging but not bad once you stem and find the little grains for your feet. The belay stance at 200’ is really comfortable. It is possible to get to this belay with a 60m rope.
Firing off on P1
Firing off on P1
Credit: anilk

Pitches 2 and 3: We wanted to link these two pitches but ended up belaying about 10’ below the piton Pitch-3. In retrospect, it is good to pitch out two and three. Pitch 2 has a comfy ledge for belaying (3’x10’). Use the optional belay (205’ from pitch 2); better spot than the one next to the piton.

Pitch 4: Easy to protect and easy to get to the Crescent Ledge. Good spot for a quick lunch or a snack. Crescent Ledge soon became the international belay station - 2 Indians, a Frenchman, a Belgian and their 2 daughters aged 13 and 15. They joined the Regular Route after starting on Fiddler On The Roof (5.10a R).

Job's Lunch at Crescent Ledge
Job's Lunch at Crescent Ledge
Credit: anilk

The view from Crescent Ledge.
The view from Crescent Ledge.
Credit: anilk
Pitch 5: Again easy, enjoy the views.
Pitches 6 and 7: Easy to link. Make sure you follow the topo and use long slings. The last couple of face moves on the 7th pitch are hard to protect and the rope drag at this point can be quite horrendous.

P7 belay ledge. Myself starting off on P8.
P7 belay ledge. Myself starting off on P8.
Credit: anilk
Pitch 8: There are two options. You can belay around the 5.0 blocky left facing corner or you can get to the recommended pitch 8 next to the tree.
Pitches 9, 10, 11: We pitched them out and climbed fast. We opted not to simul-climb, but if you feel confident enough, you will go faster.

Pitch 12: Again a fun pitch to top out on FairView; try not to opt for the 3rd/4th class at pitch-11.
We topped out at sunset, but there were cairns marking the descent. With our head lamps, it was easy to follow the descent direction and contour towards the base. Once we got to the base, we kept going until we found the carabiner post. Past the second one, we just opted to bush whack a bit and head towards the direction of the stream and the sound of cars from the road. Eventually, we found the main trail and made it back after a sweet day of climbing.

Topping out as the sun sets.
Topping out as the sun sets.
Credit: anilk

Cathedral Peak in the background under mooonlight.
Cathedral Peak in the background under mooonlight.
Credit: anilk

  Trip Report Views: 1,566
anilk
About the Author
Anil and Job are trad. climbers who crawled out of the subcontinent living in the bay area.

Comments
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Gene

climber
  Aug 10, 2011 - 06:06pm PT
Welcome aboard. Nice TR. Keep posting.
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
  Aug 10, 2011 - 07:28pm PT
nice climb and report! Great route.

so, I usually do the left-hand crack on P1 (cursing how slippery it is despite the low angle). What do others do? These guys went left from the bottom it looks like.
tahoe523

Trad climber
Station Wagon, USA
  Aug 10, 2011 - 06:14pm PT
Yeah! WooHoo! I was the over caffeinated girl you met at the kiosk. I was hounding Job to start putting up TRs. It was nice to meet you. Thanks for sharing your romp up Fairview. I'm psyched for you both. :-)

Now where's the On the Lamb TR...
anilk

Trad climber
Santa Barbara, CA
Author's Reply  Aug 10, 2011 - 06:20pm PT
On the Lamb, TR is up too :) It was nice meeting you too, hope your climb up the Rostrum went well.
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
  Aug 10, 2011 - 07:07pm PT
Dave Yerian and I saw you guys in the parking lot as you were racking for the Lamb...Dave gave you some approach beta. We saw you guys traversing the route as we walked back from N. Wizz Dome. Sounds like you had a good weekend!
Peace
John Moosie

climber
Beautiful California
  Aug 10, 2011 - 07:13pm PT
haha. . Nice! I love how the climbing community supports each others efforts. Love that view from crescent ledge. Thanks for the report and sharing the stoke.
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Aug 10, 2011 - 08:11pm PT
Fun TFPU!
Rockin' Gal

Trad climber
Boulder
  Aug 11, 2011 - 01:31pm PT
Ah, one of the classic routes there. Thanks for the memories of summer in the Meadows. Cairns on the descent? That's a new one.
Kurt Ettinger

Trad climber
Martinez, CA
  Aug 11, 2011 - 01:49pm PT
TFPU! A classic route and sounds like you had a great day!
neversummer

climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
  Aug 11, 2011 - 02:28pm PT
BUMP ! nice.
moacman

Trad climber
Montuckyian Via Canada Eh!
  Aug 11, 2011 - 03:30pm PT
Toooo much fun.Thanks for sharing...

Stevo
O.D.

Trad climber
LA LA Land
  Aug 11, 2011 - 04:35pm PT
Excellent write-up and photos! Looking forward to more from you guys.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Aug 11, 2011 - 05:21pm PT
so want to do this
WhiskeyToast

Social climber
Hawaii
  Aug 11, 2011 - 05:26pm PT
Thanks for the great TR. I bailed off from P1 during a thunderstorm back in 87'. Never got back to finish it. Bummer. Bringing back great memories though as I sit in my cubicle at work.
tahoe523

Trad climber
Station Wagon, USA
  Aug 11, 2011 - 06:07pm PT
Bump.

I'll tell you why I'm so psyched for these guys. I met Job on Royal Arches just a few weekends ago. It was his first lead climb. He was all smiles, no problems, no epics.

The following weekend they get a non-noob start on Fairview well past 9am. If you take a look at the first pitch, whoever led it placed like 3 pieces. I sewed that crack up my first time and almost epic'd on the route to boot. Anil and Job were all smiles, no problems, no epics. The following day they cruise On the Lamb crux side first.

At this rate, you both are going to be posting up some more amazing TRs. Keep it up. I'm looking forward to reading about the adventures to come! Way to make us weekend warriors look good. :)
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Fairview Dome - Regular Route 5.9 - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Fairview Dome is Tuolumne's largest steep face.
Photo: Greg Barnes
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