Regular Route 5.9
Trip ReportPerfect climb on Fairview (August 6, 2011)
We got to the base at 10:30 AM and found that there was one party already on the first pitch. Another party was waiting in line. Two more parties came after we got in line. The conditions were perfect, gentle breeze and not a cloud in the sky. That party ahead of us got to the optional belay (200 ft from the ground) and decided to bail. We had the recommended gear and a 60m rope.
Pitch 1 - Slipn Slide: 5.9 polished section is challenging but not bad once you stem and find the little grains for your feet. The belay stance at 200 is really comfortable. It is possible to get to this belay with a 60m rope.
Pitches 2 and 3: We wanted to link these two pitches but ended up belaying about 10 below the piton Pitch-3. In retrospect, it is good to pitch out two and three. Pitch 2 has a comfy ledge for belaying (3x10). Use the optional belay (205 from pitch 2); better spot than the one next to the piton.
Pitch 4: Easy to protect and easy to get to the Crescent Ledge. Good spot for a quick lunch or a snack. Crescent Ledge soon became the international belay station - 2 Indians, a Frenchman, a Belgian and their 2 daughters aged 13 and 15. They joined the Regular Route after starting on Fiddler On The Roof (5.10a R).
Pitches 6 and 7: Easy to link. Make sure you follow the topo and use long slings. The last couple of face moves on the 7th pitch are hard to protect and the rope drag at this point can be quite horrendous.
Pitches 9, 10, 11: We pitched them out and climbed fast. We opted not to simul-climb, but if you feel confident enough, you will go faster.
Pitch 12: Again a fun pitch to top out on FairView; try not to opt for the 3rd/4th class at pitch-11.
We topped out at sunset, but there were cairns marking the descent. With our head lamps, it was easy to follow the descent direction and contour towards the base. Once we got to the base, we kept going until we found the carabiner post. Past the second one, we just opted to bush whack a bit and head towards the direction of the stream and the sound of cars from the road. Eventually, we found the main trail and made it back after a sweet day of climbing.
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