Shagadelic 5.8

 
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Medlicott Dome, Left


Tuolumne Meadows, California USA


Trip Report
On the Comeback Trail: Tuolumne Meadows in the Autumn
Monday September 24, 2012 10:07pm
I'd had kind of a long week, in between termite fumigation of the Casa de Llama and being on call for jury duty. Daphne had been having a long year, after breaking her foot this past spring. I knew something of what she was going through, since I broke my left ankle in 1993 (motorcycle accident) and my right heel bone in 2007 (bouldering fall). I was psyched that she was ready to start climbing again.

Some friends took me up Deception at the Leap about four months after my heel fracture. I remember the pain, and fitting an ankle brace on my right approach shoe (high tops). It took me about three weeks to start leading again at Courtright Reservoir later that summer. I'll always remember the kindness of my friends that year.

Saturday around mid-morning we met in front of Stately Pleasure Dome, and paddled up the slabs to the base of Hermaphrodite Flake (5.4). This seems like a perfect "rehab route". I've done it almost every year at least once just because it's so much fun.

Daphne on the approach pitch to Hermaphrodite Flake
Daphne on the approach pitch to Hermaphrodite Flake
Credit: rhyang

We continued up the clean slabs of The Boltway (5.8).

Looking down first pitch of The Boltway
Looking down first pitch of The Boltway
Credit: rhyang

Looking up second pitch of The Boltway
Looking up second pitch of The Boltway
Credit: rhyang

Cathedral Peak, from Stately Pleasure Dome
Cathedral Peak, from Stately Pleasure Dome
Credit: rhyang

We had a good time, and the weather was basically perfect. After coiling the ropes at the top we walked off, and Daphne tested her ankle stability.

Daphne on the walkoff from Stately Pleasure Dome
Daphne on the walkoff from Stately Pleasure Dome
Credit: rhyang

Another nice thing about rehab climbing on Stately is that you can just cross the road and soak in the lake. After a bit we decided to end the day at Low Profile Dome. I hunted around for R2D2 (5.8R), but couldn't find it and settled for Golfer's Route (5.7R) instead, always a good time.

By late afternoon our sea-level lungs were burning and my usual lack of sleep during the week was catching up with me, so we headed down to the Whoa Nellie Deli and feasted. I ordered the pork chops and by golly those were the biggest chunks of meat I had ever seen :)

Next morning dawned a bit colder. There was frost on the grass near the Tioga Pass Resort before 8am, and my car thermometer read in the low thirties F. We had a nice breakfast and did not skimp on the bacon !

It was a fairly leisurely morning, and around 10am we were hiking up the steep approach trail to Medlicott Dome, gasping for breath. Shagadelic (5.8) seemed like just the thing, since Daphne's foot wasn't really up for sustained jamming yet. Most of the route was still in the shade, and it was breezy enough that we kept our jackets on.

The first pitch seemed a little tricky for 5.7. Maybe I should have had a few more pancakes.

Daphne on first pitch of Shagadelic
Daphne on first pitch of Shagadelic
Credit: rhyang

Actually, so was the second pitch.

Looking up second pitch of Shagadelic
Looking up second pitch of Shagadelic
Credit: rhyang

The third pitch seemed almost straightforward by comparison, except for a thin spot.

Looking down third pitch of Shagadelic
Looking down third pitch of Shagadelic
Credit: rhyang

I'd only done this route once before, in 2009, and we'd rapped off. This time we were determined to summit :) The last pitch seemed pretty tame, if not a bit dirty, and we were shortly coiling the rope. I'm glad we did it though -- the views were fantastic.

Tenaya Peak, Half Dome, and Tenaya Lake, from Medlicott Dome
Tenaya Peak, Half Dome, and Tenaya Lake, from Medlicott Dome
Credit: rhyang

We walked north a bit to see a lake over there, a very scenic spot.

Lake north of Medlicott Dome; Mariluolumne on the right, backside of L...
Lake north of Medlicott Dome; Mariluolumne on the right, backside of Lamb Dome on the left ?
Credit: rhyang

As per the supertopo descent directions we headed south over the top of the dome.

Cathedral Peak, Eichorn Pinnacle, and the Cockscomb from Medlicott Dom...
Cathedral Peak, Eichorn Pinnacle, and the Cockscomb from Medlicott Dome.
Credit: rhyang

Echo Peaks and Matthes Crest, from Medlicott Dome.
Echo Peaks and Matthes Crest, from Medlicott Dome.
Credit: rhyang

The slab descent was fairly tame, and reminded us a lot of the Fairview descent. The trail back to the cars was long, but well-used and by then Daphne's foot was ready for another soaking in Tenaya Lake. I hear that !

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rhyang
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Comments
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Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
  Sep 24, 2012 - 10:22pm PT
excellent! Nice bunch of really good routes. Fall comes quickly up there.
em kn0t

Trad climber
isle of wyde
  Sep 24, 2012 - 10:30pm PT
Right on! those routes & descents seem pretty stout for rehab...kudos Daphne. Beautiful scenic photos, too. Thanks!
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
  Sep 24, 2012 - 10:37pm PT
Well done!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Sep 24, 2012 - 10:39pm PT
Thanks for a great TR and great pics,
It's great you helped Daphne get back out climbing!
Lynne Leichtfuss

Trad climber
Will know soon
  Sep 24, 2012 - 10:46pm PT
It was awesome to see you guys at TPR. Daphne, yo the greatest gal. What a great tho short talk. Life is good. Let's all live it....no matta the stuff. Hugs, lynnie
Daphne

Trad climber
Northern California
  Sep 25, 2012 - 01:04am PT
Thanks Rob, for a most excellent adventure. What a great weekend and so much fun to be back with you on Tuolumne granite. Titanium club unite!

Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Sep 25, 2012 - 11:23am PT
What a very nice report and story to hear, thanks Rob.
Jay Wood

Trad climber
Land of God-less fools
  Sep 25, 2012 - 12:20pm PT
Nice shots and good to see you back on the rock.
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
  Sep 25, 2012 - 03:22pm PT
See, Rob, my plan for helping her rehab is to take her to the ORG and put a rope up on stuff that's steep enough that she barely has to weight her ankle. You chose the opposite - SLAB!
I guess I'll be the Yin and you'll be the Yang.
Phyl
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Sep 26, 2012 - 02:16am PT
Right on!
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Photo: Greg Barnes
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