Excellent, Smithers, Medlicott Dome, Left 5.10a

   
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Tuolumne Meadows, California USA

  • Currently 4.0/5
Avg time to climb route: 1.5 hours
Approach time: 30-40 minutes
Descent time: 1 hour
Number of pitches: 3
Height of route: 430'
Overview
This is one of the few face climbs of its grade in Tuolumne with good protection. Crossing through the slab testpiece Slipstream (5.11c) on its third pitch, and neighbored by such climbs as the unfinished slab route Vapor Lock (5.11c), no one would expect this line to go at such a moderate rating. The first ascent team did not even intend to do this route, just to put a good anchor on the obvious fun crack at the start (D’oh!), which previously had only a single hangerless 1/4” bolt as the anchor.
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Climber Beta on Excellent, Smithers
  A total of (7) submissions of route beta on Excellent, Smithers
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Strategy
Carry two 60m ropes to rappel. Thunderstorms have a nasty habit of sneaking up on Medlicott Dome from behind. In a downpour this route becomes a waterfall.
Everything You Need to Know About Tuolumne Meadows
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Other guidebooks that include info on Excellent, Smithers
  • Rock Climbs of Tuolumne Meadows, by Don Reid and Chris Falkenstein.
Source: SuperTopo Guidebook Staff Last update: September 24, 2011
Medlicott Dome, Left - Excellent, Smithers 5.10a - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Greg Barnes
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Medlicott Dome, Left - Piss Easy 5.8 R - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click for details.
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Medlicott Dome, Left - Super Chicken 5.9 - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click for details.
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Medlicott Dome, Left - Pussy Paws 5.10c X - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click for details.
Pussy Paws, 5.10c X
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Pussy Paws is left of route E
Medlicott Dome, Left - Scorpion 5.11b - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click for details.
Scorpion, 5.11b
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Scorpion is route F
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