North Arete 5.8
Trip ReportNorth Arete of BCS with Salad (TR)
I took up Salad's invitation to do some climbing in the Rock Creek area last week. The area is like a playground and I wanted to spend a week or so cragging, doing peaks, lazing around. In the end I only did the second two and it turned out to be a wonderful 5 days.
I meet up with Salad and neither of us have done the North Arete of Bear Creek Sprire(III 5.8), so we decide to do it Tuesday. The plan is relatively simple: we meet at the Mosquito Flat trailhead at 4 AM, walk out there, climb it, walk back. Mosquito Flat is wonderfully high and the first 3 miles are on easy trail through the beautiful Little Lakes Valley(seriously, a playground).
I show up at the trailhead and Salad has a mug of coffee waiting. This is going to be an alright day. We head out on easy trail by headlamp. The last 2.5 miles of approach role up and over hills of talus. There was a bit of snow mixed in at the end.
The climbing is amazing. Great rock (lots of flakes and crystals). Great ledges. The 5.7 and 5.8 climbing comes in the first 5 (or 6?) pitches.
The climb starts to level out and it becomes sort of a ridge traverse. Eventually we reached some rap slings and had two choices. Traverse about 50 feet and go up 15 feet to the summit proper or rap 100' to the walk off. I can't remember what happened after that.
The hike out was fairly uneventful, though the talus always seems to become less stable and further its reach into the valley. We made it back to the road just barely without resorting to headlamp.
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