North Arete, Bear Creek Spire 5.8
High Sierra, California USA
Avg time to climb route: 5-8 hours
Approach time: 3-4 hours
Descent time: 3-5 hours
Number of pitches: 10
Height of route: 800'
OverviewThe North ArÍte takes the most compelling line on Bear Creek Spire. The climb is typical for a Sierra route: lots of cracks, broken rock, and mostly face climbing and stemming with a few mandatory hand jams. Both cruxes involve steep stemming on awkward large flakes. The climb is easily divided in two halves. The first half climbs a striking arÍte/pillar with steep 5.7 and 5.8 sections separated by fourth class. The second half ascends an exposed 4th class ridge. Because only the first half is visible from the base, many climbers underestimate the length of the climb.
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