Central Pillar of Frenzy 5.9

 
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Middle Cathedral


Yosemite Valley, California USA


Trip Report
Noob 5.9 leaders on CPF!
Tuesday September 28, 2010 4:16pm
Mason and I rocked CPF on Saturday. When we showed up the route was 3 parties deep. Waited at the base for about 45 min before firing off. What can you do? It was Saturday and the climb gets 5 stars. At least all the parties in front and behind were cool people and having a fun day.

This would our first 5.9 multi-pitch. Mason had nocked out a couple 5.9 pitches in the previous weeks. I had been leading 5.7 but did one 5.9 climb before school put the brakes on my climbing season.


I lead P1 and found it to be fairly straight forward. Lot's of fingers, hands, and fists with tons of good pro. The crux was right before the belay. I fumbled around for awhile before figuring out that I needed to turn around and face away from the wall. In all, I fired the pitch pretty quick.
Me on pitch 1; straight forward fingers, hands, and fists.
Me on pitch 1; straight forward fingers, hands, and fists.
Credit: photonez
Me mellowing at the pitch 1 crux.
Me mellowing at the pitch 1 crux.
Credit: photonez
Mason took P2. He was feeling a little worked after P1 and got a little pissed at my enthusiasm. I was all jacked up ready for him to roll. He smoked the pitch though. I was thinking this pitch felt more sustained than P1.
Mason preparing to fire P2.
Mason preparing to fire P2.
Credit: photonez
Mason getting a little pissed at me for taking pictures while he's try...
Mason getting a little pissed at me for taking pictures while he's trying to get his head on.
Credit: photonez
Mason working up to the fingers on P2
Mason working up to the fingers on P2
Credit: photonez
I was up again on P3. The roof is 5.7 but I made it feel like 5.10. Nothing a one armed pull up couldn't fix. At the beginning of the climb Mason said the topo suggested doubles for #3 and #3.5. I was like f*#k that, I'm not carrying all that gear. After pulling the roof I discovered why those pieces were needed. I ended up running out 40 to 50 ft of 5.8 OW. Actually not so bad due to the low angle and my hands and forearms fit fairly well at that size. In hindsight, I should have clipped some of the fixed gear in the OW section.
Me heading to the roof on P3
Me heading to the roof on P3
Credit: photonez
Me inspecting the fixed gear in the roof.
Me inspecting the fixed gear in the roof.
Credit: photonez
Didn't feel like a 5.7 roof.  Obviously, I was doing something wrong.
Didn't feel like a 5.7 roof. Obviously, I was doing something wrong.
Credit: photonez
P4 was probably the most fun of all the pitches. Mason cruised it quickly.
Mason stemming the double cracks on P4.
Mason stemming the double cracks on P4.
Credit: photonez
Me getting ready to fire P5.
Me getting ready to fire P5.
Credit: photonez
P5 was supposed to be my pitch. I climbed a little over half way into the sustained 5.9 fingers before cramping up and having to come back to the belay. I had a calf lock up due to dehydration, but I'm just making excuses. Mason finished up with style and saved the climb from an epic bail.
P5 chimney
P5 chimney
Credit: photonez
Not a summit shot, but end of the climb for fledging 5.9 leaders.
Not a summit shot, but end of the climb for fledging 5.9 leaders.
Credit: photonez
It was a long day! About 7 hours due to multiple parties, my P5 epic, and a rope that looked like a telephone cord during the rappels. We made it back to the Face Lift Taco Fest with all our fingers and toes. We were greeted by many happy Face Lifters and kickin fish tacos.

  Trip Report Views: 2,055
photonez
About the Author
photonez is a trad climber from Mountain View, CA.

Comments
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Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
  Sep 28, 2010 - 04:19pm PT
Cool stuff!!!

Glad you had a great time.. (by the looks of it I mean)

Cheers
eKat

Trad climber
  Sep 28, 2010 - 04:22pm PT
TOTALLY BITCHEN!

Thanks for postin' up!

xo

eKat
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  Sep 28, 2010 - 04:27pm PT
Nice!

you two are moving right along.

Way to step it up Ezra/ Mason!

Cheers!

Mucci
Prod

Trad climber
  Sep 28, 2010 - 04:29pm PT
I like the pic where Mason is pissed that you are taking pictures when he is trying to get his head together!! Been there, plenty.

50' runout, not clipping the fixed gear???? Why???

Good job.

Prod.
TwistedCrank

climber
Released into general population, Idaho
  Sep 28, 2010 - 04:31pm PT
BANK!
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
  Sep 28, 2010 - 04:37pm PT
Nice!!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Sep 28, 2010 - 04:52pm PT
Woot!!

Ding Ding Ding goes the bell at the top of P5!

Money!!

Well done guys, I always loved that climb.

Although as a new climber in Yo, I thought it was burlier than you just made it sound.
Of course those cracks were harder in the 70's....HA!!!
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Sep 28, 2010 - 05:09pm PT
I like the pic where Mason is pissed that you are taking pictures when he is trying to get his head together!! Been there, plenty.

That's me too. Mason you're a man after my own heart, as my partners will attest! I'm always psyched to see the photos the day after, but when my nerves are redlining I always lose sight of that fact...

Thanks for the share, that climb blew me away as my second line in the Valley (after the obligatory non-hardperson Yosemite Valley intro, After Six).
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
  Sep 28, 2010 - 05:11pm PT
Great job, guys! Congrats on getting a great route "in style."
photonez

Big Wall climber
San Jose, Armpit of the Bay!
Author's Reply  Sep 28, 2010 - 05:52pm PT
Thanks for the props everyone. This summer I felt like I'd be stuck at 5.7 for the rest of my climbing career. Edris and I both felt fairly comfy on this route. We're eyeballing on Reeds Direct for the end of October. Let's get pumped!
photonez

Big Wall climber
San Jose, Armpit of the Bay!
Author's Reply  Sep 28, 2010 - 05:39pm PT
Prod - I was so psyched I didn't even consider clipping the fixed gear. I guy came up after us and mentioned that I should have clipped the fixed pieces. I was like, sh#t that makes since. But, that size of OW just works for me.
Pate

Trad climber
  Sep 28, 2010 - 06:29pm PT
kick-frickin'-izz-ass tradsters!
Mason

Trad climber
Yay Area
  Sep 29, 2010 - 02:28am PT
Haha no, not pissed! I tend to look mean/angry when I'm in deep thought.

I had so much going through my head at that point; things like "soft eyes," "visualize," "breathe!!!" "stop thinking so much," "take your time and enjoy the climb," "Sustained, vertical 5.9 fingers, what am I thinking??"

It was an all around beautiful climb. Just had to stay away from the tunnel vision and look around for places to rest.

The pictures are great, and yes I felt awesome after seeing the bolts and the end of pitch 5.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Sep 28, 2010 - 07:34pm PT
Well done, keep it up!
bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
  Sep 28, 2010 - 07:35pm PT
fun times, but it doesn't hurt to clip fixed stuff
Zander

climber
  Sep 28, 2010 - 07:40pm PT
Oh yeah!
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
Maestro, Ecosystem Ministry, Fatcrackistan
  Sep 28, 2010 - 07:50pm PT
Great job!

DMT
seth kovar

climber
Reno, NV
  Sep 28, 2010 - 08:24pm PT
Awesome guys, thanks for the TR...

Keep it up!!!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Sep 29, 2010 - 02:35am PT
werd


be sure to use that skinny rope technique to prevent the not slippin thru the rings if ya need to. how small a diameter?
Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
  Sep 29, 2010 - 03:11am PT
Great photos, great TR!

Sent me back in time, to when I Noobed up that fine masterpiece for the first time. CPF is so nice, I did it twice.

BTW, the "5.7" roof has a hidden jug, which I found the first time up there. I found it by fumble-flailing all over at arm's reach . . . but only after first trying to hand-crack straight up and over.
TripL7

Trad climber
san diego
  Sep 29, 2010 - 12:00pm PT
Great way to spend the day(and finish one).

CPF(and After Six)were two must do climbs back in the mid 70's. CPF did have a "burly" rep back then for reasons I don't recall...

Super TR!
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
  Sep 29, 2010 - 12:42pm PT
Nice job, guys! I'm a bit jealous, but that is a proud send.

Well done!!!
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
  Sep 29, 2010 - 12:45pm PT
Excellent! Great report, great photos, great route. Way to go.
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Sep 29, 2010 - 03:25pm PT
Yeah! GreAT CLIMB.

THANKS for posting.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
  Sep 29, 2010 - 03:42pm PT
Always a fun outing.

How do you know when you're really noobin' it up? Well, I did this route once with a noobish type and he placed EVERY piece on the rack in p5...literally 14 or 15 pieces. Then our rope stuck after the last rap. Full tilt noobin.

Did it another time, planning to rap with the party below us, only took one rope. Party below bailed, without telling us. DOH! Getting down was an exciting combination penjis, and a friendly party on the BW.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
  Sep 29, 2010 - 04:01pm PT
Good stuff.
Noobs with self-awareness are not the usual noobs!
They are the ones having fun!
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Canada
  Sep 29, 2010 - 04:06pm PT
Way to go guys !

Now kick it up some and try East Buttress of Middle or the North East Buttress of Higher.

Jim
KateyB

Social climber
DSM, IOWA
  Oct 4, 2010 - 05:18pm PT
They made me sign up to comment on this and when I signed up they asked what kinda climber I was...... so I said ~ the kind that crawls so I dont fall.

Ok who is the BadBoy in the yellow T shirt. ~ little wink ~

thnx for sharing a link to this.

pc

climber
  Oct 4, 2010 - 05:24pm PT
Thanks for posting on the pillar! Nice work.
Doug Robinson

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
  Oct 4, 2010 - 05:31pm PT
Nice goin guys.

I love that route, though I gotta admit that last time up there the first pitch felt awkward and made me whine. You just sailed it. nice!
neversummer

climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
  Oct 4, 2010 - 05:33pm PT
nice
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Photo: Chris McNamara
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