Northwest Buttress 5.5

 
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Tenaya Peak


Tuolumne Meadows, California USA


Trip Report
New Trick for the Toolbox-practicing simulclimbing on Tenaya-Plus a Bonus Day in Tuolumne
Tuesday August 2, 2016 1:56pm
Day 1

Casual 10 am start time. Pic pretty much captures the tone for the day.
Credit: looks easy from here

Great view of the route pretty much the entire approach.
Credit: looks easy from here

Equally great view of the valley as soon as the treeline is cleared.
Credit: looks easy from here

Common view for the next few hours.
Credit: looks easy from here

Redundant photo, but the only one of us (sorta) simuling, and since it's in the title I guess I should include it.
Credit: looks easy from here
(The safety-conscious need not worry-my partner knew I was taking this pic, and we were both stopped at good stances, hence the "sorta").

View from the phenomenal ledge about 3/4s of the way up.
Credit: looks easy from here

That wonderful feeling when your partner agrees to stay on lead and lug the rack the rest of the route.
Credit: looks easy from here

Last step across before the summit plateau.
Credit: looks easy from here

Hero shot.
Credit: looks easy from here

Smokey Valley from the Soberanes Fire near Big Sur.
Credit: looks easy from here

I saw my first wild porcupine on the descent.
(He didn't see me.)
(He didn't see me.)
Credit: looks easy from here

Final stats, 6 hours car to car (including lounging on the beach at Tenaya Lake on the way down), 3 hours on a rope, three belays for a total of <200' (a thin seam down low and a couple traverses up high). We were both blown away by how quickly and smoothly it went, considering it was both our first times simul-climbing, but this was the perfect route to learn it on-long, mellow, and scenic.

Day 2

Yesterday's objective.
Credit: looks easy from here

Today's objective (is that way; Bachar-Yerian's gonna need a couple more weeks of training).
Maybe even 3 more weeks. ;&#41;
Maybe even 3 more weeks. ;)
Credit: looks easy from here

Heading up Errett by Bit.
Credit: looks easy from here

Heading down Errett by Bit.
Credit: looks easy from here

Distant buttshot of the leader of the group after us nearing the p2 anchors of Errett by Bit.
Credit: looks easy from here
(If this is you, and you're interested, I can send you the full-rez version of this pic and a couple more with different zooms.)

Afternoon exploration the north aspect of Pywiack Dome.
Credit: looks easy from here

Sick, brah!
Credit: looks easy from here

And a little porn for the pad people.
Credit: looks easy from here
On the summit of the ridge running north from Pywiack, 20' high, 20 minute approach, I estimate V10±2, great landing, and, based off the intact flakes on the right face, never climbed.

Still delicious, even warm.
Credit: looks easy from here

  Trip Report Views: 1,493
looks easy from here
About the Author
looks easy from here is a climber from Ben Lomond, CA.

Comments
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Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Aug 2, 2016 - 04:30pm PT
Nice man, that one has long been on the list!
Jeremy Ross

Gym climber
  Aug 2, 2016 - 04:31pm PT
I got nothing but respect for that moustache!
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
  Aug 2, 2016 - 04:33pm PT
Awesome. Just got back, heading up again in a few weeks. Like the idea of exploring around, I plan to cruise around the domes to find cool lakes and spots to get away. Thanks for the psyche.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Aug 2, 2016 - 04:33pm PT
40 GU packets and a liter of water, the monkeys are sending!
johntp

Trad climber
socal
  Aug 2, 2016 - 09:35pm PT
Damn climbing content.

TFPU!
moosedrool

climber
Andrzej Citkowicz far away from Poland
  Aug 2, 2016 - 09:46pm PT
Cool!

Tenaya Peak was our first multi pitch climb. We both started climbing just a few months earlier.

On the same trip, we also climbed Errett by Bit.

Moose
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
  Aug 2, 2016 - 09:55pm PT
Sh#t yeah! Thanks, I was drooling over that climb swimming in the lake a few days ago.

Moose, I read on here multiple times that you don't even climb. Has anyone confirmed that you actually do?
looks easy from here

climber
Ben Lomond, CA
Author's Reply  Aug 3, 2016 - 03:37pm PT
that one has long been on the list!
I was drooling over that climb swimming in the lake a few days ago.
Hit it! For some reason I was absurdly disdainful about it until I saw a pic Micronut posted of the final Class 4 traverse and it immediately bumped way up my list.
I got nothing but respect for that moustache!
Heh, you and the two 4 year old girls in Two Guy's Pizza Pies who couldn't stop staring and pointing and whispering "Mustache!"
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  Aug 3, 2016 - 03:42pm PT
Yay for climbing content!
eKat

climber
  Aug 3, 2016 - 03:43pm PT
TOTALLY BITCHEN!
moosedrool

climber
Andrzej Citkowicz far away from Poland
  Aug 3, 2016 - 03:59pm PT
Justin, of course I don't climb. i scramble.

But I hope DMT can show (teach?) me how to climb.

Btw, come over to Courthright. We'll be there for a week, starting this Friday. Since I don't climb, we can hang out and talk shet about Jeremy.

Moose
perswig

climber
  Aug 3, 2016 - 04:08pm PT
I got nothing but respect for that moustache!

Agree. That thing has potential.
Dale
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Aug 3, 2016 - 04:43pm PT
Booyah. Nice send.
Love me some TENAYUH!
Love me some TENAYUH!
Credit: micronut
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
  Aug 3, 2016 - 04:53pm PT
Haha Moose. I'm busy the next couple of weeks, but you will love Courtright. You are a climber in my book, but my book isn't really worth a sh#t.

Looks Easy, will have to be next summer for me, but thanks again for the pics and report.
MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
  Aug 3, 2016 - 05:17pm PT
the monkeys are sending!


The difficulties of travelling with monkeys are great.


Quote from Roger Casement about his days in the Congo where he met Joseph Conrad and told him about a ferry going up the river.
looks easy from here

climber
Ben Lomond, CA
Author's Reply  Aug 5, 2016 - 10:55am PT
this just in-I forgot about the shoulder. Speaking sympathetically as someone approaching the end of a long shoulder rehab (though I was able to skip the knife), this is a fantastic route to get the legs and lungs a good workout without loading the arms too much. Definitely a good one to look forward to next season.

Micronut-Thanks for posting this pic a while back and getting my head on straight about what a great route this is.
Credit: micronut
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Aug 5, 2016 - 11:09am PT
cool by me
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Tenaya Peak - Northwest Buttress 5.5 - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Greg Barnes