Southwest Face 5.10c

 
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Mt. Conness


Tuolumne Meadows, California USA


Trip Report
Mt. Conness SW Face (Harding Route)
Thursday June 20, 2013 5:18pm
Bellow average snow year helped me out one more time - Hamik and I managed to climb SW Face of Mt. Conness in mid June! Even though this winter brought a bit more precipitation than last, it already feels like mid August in High Sierra. SW Face was one of the few reasons why I initially thought ability to climb wide cracks was a vital skill to have. At first I couldn't execute a basic heel-toe (for weeks). Than I learned how to knee jam and perform variety of stacks. After a while it actually became fun to learn techniques that depend on practice, rather than ability to crank.

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SW Face of Conness
SW Face of Conness
Credit: Vitaliy M.
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Hamik jumping over some creek

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Memorial plaque at the base

Multiple different people, including a world class alpinist, told me Harding route was serious business. I can't say I got good sleep the night prior, but what's the worst thing that could happen when you are 30ft above your last piece of pro in a wide crack? Again, my worries were obviously silly - no one falls out of squeeze chimneys! And we did end up sending. But whoever said this route was burly, was correct. It was sustained and did not feel very easy. Climbing was pure fun on rare occasions, and often required some thought to get through crux sections.

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Hamik starting up pitch 1

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Pitch 2...a bit tilted, and super epic

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Pitch 4 starts with a nice hand crack and transforms into a slightly overhaning OW

Even thought we did not end up making stupid mistakes on the climb itself, we made one by leaving our vehicle at 5:15 am. We were up above the descent gully by 7:45 am, but our route did not receive any sun till 9:30! Hamik, I, and our new friend Natalia spent almost two hours bathing in the sun before we made our way down to the base. At least we had something to talk about - on our way up we met two climbers who attempted West Ridge, but bailed, and had a forced bivy. It was a bit fortunate they did not see sock-less Natalia hiking in a pair of sandals on her way to solo her first alpine route. At times it is entertaining to observe people epic, but than you got to snap out and concentrate on avoiding own f-ups. We started down and Hamik started leading at 10:45.

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Bolt protected OW! Just like going sport climbing :)

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Hamik coming up the final squeeze

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Hamik starting up 6th pitch

We climbed the route in 8 pitches and divided it in four blocks of two. Hamik's ability to crush thin cracks and lie backs earned him first two, and my ability to trash my way up OWs earned me the following couple. I thought pitch two and four were two distinct cruxes of this route. Second pitch has a powerful roof with a thin crack (strenuous for a guy with above average hand size) and a delicate lie back section higher. Fourth pitch starts with an awesome hand crack that goes from thin to wide and transforms into an OW. It is protected well by a BD #6, but unfortunately was left side in (my weaker side), and seemed slightly overhanging. Business didn't last too long and I was chimneying up remaining squeeze while adoring the old bolts placed by a FA party. Even thought these bolts are more like a historic artifact rather than a piece designed to keep you from decking, I clipped one anyway. : )

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One of the last headwalls (pitch 7)

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Hamik feeling a bit fat

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View of Half Dome and TM from the summit

Hamik led the next two pitches above the big ledge, and I took the last two before we unroped and scrambled to the summit. There was some serious ice fall coming from the corner into which the original route transitions and Hamik took his pitch straight up to a big roof instead. From there he climbed a moss filled hand crack which felt like a painful 5.10c in it's present wet form. Remainder of 6th pitch had beautiful grooves with horizontal dikes that formed great stems or stances for rest. After 6 hours and 15 minutes on route we huffed our way to a hard earned summit. A few weeks prior I appreciated the view of Conness from Half Dome and today it was nice to view Half Dome aligned bellow other mountaintops. We were able to hike out with plenty of time to spare before the sunset. It was a real treat to start my 'alpine' season with a Harding route, hopefully I will do the other route of his on Keeler by the time this year expires.

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TM
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Natalie crushing 5.10 slab in TM
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Sunset. View of Cloud's Rest

Tip of the month for all of you OW lovers out there: do not expose too much skin at work after a weekend of trashing - people will question your sanity if you tell them the truth. : )

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Alpineglow on Half Dome
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Half dome a bit later in the evening. TM is a beautiful place with a lot of climbing!


Want more photos or trip reports? Check out: http://vividrea1ity.blogspot.com/

  Trip Report Views: 7,058
Vitaliy M.
About the Author
Vitaliy M. is annoying gym climber from San Francisco.

Comments
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Jun 20, 2013 - 05:36pm PT
Excellent! Thank you much.

John
matty

Trad climber
Sad the forum is gone =(
  Jun 20, 2013 - 05:41pm PT
Sweet photos of half dome etc...can't wait to see what goes down in Peru.
CA Dreamin'

climber
San Jose
  Jun 20, 2013 - 05:49pm PT
Good man! Nice trip report on a phenomenal climb. It brings back fond memories. Keep sending and sharing your TRs. They are thoroughly enjoyed.
-AP
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jun 20, 2013 - 06:06pm PT
Way to go V!!!!!!!!!!!!
Sounds burly!!!!
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
  Jun 20, 2013 - 06:13pm PT
Great route and excellent TR. Thanks for sharing!
Norton

climber
The Wastelands
  Jun 20, 2013 - 06:26pm PT
good read and photos

well done guys!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Jun 24, 2013 - 02:39am PT
Thanks! Hope Peru will be a safe and filled with lots of climbing of all sorts!
Harding route is for sure a must do, WML!
BMcC

Trad climber
Livermore
  Jun 25, 2013 - 02:29am PT
Sweet pics. Nicely done!
snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
  Jun 25, 2013 - 02:36am PT
word
Monkey-sa

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
  Jun 25, 2013 - 09:35am PT
my friend told me that we are all closet masochist. Def. question our sanity.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Jun 25, 2013 - 10:13am PT
Nice TR.....great pics, I love that climb!
climber007

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
  Jun 25, 2013 - 12:37pm PT
Great work V...

I actually met and climbed with Natalie this last weekend... she ranted about having a blast climbing with you and H. ;-)

I gave her an off-width 101 in TM at olmstead canyon this weekend... she passed with flying colors... she crushed the intro exam on Ivory Tower left... ;-) and got a solid A in the two OW pods on Lord Caffeine.. ;-)

nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Jun 25, 2013 - 12:43pm PT
Sounds like I should add Vitaliy and Hamik to the celebrity sightings thread! Nice job guys.
crunch

Social climber
CO
  Jun 25, 2013 - 12:47pm PT
Great pics! Thanks.
msiddens

Trad climber
  Jun 25, 2013 - 02:34pm PT
great post thanks
laurel arndt

Trad climber
phoenix
  Jun 25, 2013 - 08:31pm PT
Awesome post, beautiful alpine glow pic!!!that is the route we aimed for and ended doing West Ridge (also glad to hear someone else had to bivy it)
PatCleary

Social climber
Rohnert Park, CA
  Jun 26, 2013 - 05:09pm PT
To be fair, we only bivvied, we didn't bail.
Brian B

Trad climber
Oakland
  Jun 26, 2013 - 05:23pm PT
Thanks for clarifying Pat. Summited late, yes. Epiced, yes. Cold, yes. Bailed, no.
hamik

Mountain climber
Manhattan Beach, CA
  Jun 26, 2013 - 05:59pm PT
Way to keep going, dudes. Having been in your shoes recently V and I legitimately felt your pain and wished we had some tea in a thermos or something. So the green camalot station wasn't yours?
Brian B

Trad climber
Oakland
  Jun 26, 2013 - 07:34pm PT
There was a party below us that did bail and I know they left a lot of pro. That was below the notch on the West Ridge though.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Jun 27, 2013 - 01:29am PT
There was a party below us that did bail and I know they left a lot of pro. That was below the notch on the West Ridge though.

Yeah, our friend said she racked a nice rap station which included a nut, cam, sling, quickdraw and a locker. She was super happy.

Nice to meet you guys, but hope next time we see each other in different circumstances!

Jebus, I had to get all the desire to climb rock out of me before a 7 week trip to Peru. One more trip report from High Sierra and that's it till August or September. :(
hamik

Mountain climber
Manhattan Beach, CA
  Jun 27, 2013 - 02:06am PT
What the hell do you think I'm going to do--lead all the rock pitches in Peru while you jug, eat cuy, and pet alpacas? Bring your damn rock shoes! :-)
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Jun 27, 2013 - 05:27am PT
And that's when you go for the Harding route on keeler needle?

Nice work! Classic route
HighDesertDJ

Trad climber
  Jun 27, 2013 - 08:21am PT
Very envious. Thanks for the pics!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Jun 27, 2013 - 11:59am PT
And that's when you go for the Harding route on keeler needle?

That one is on the list, but I hope I get to do some FAs when I return. Hope to get on Keeler too though...
Impaler

Social climber
San Francisco
  Jun 27, 2013 - 02:21pm PT
Nice pictures Homie! Cool report! I second the motion re. Harding route on Keeler. I'd love to see some of your pictures from there.
Larry Nelson

Social climber
  Jun 7, 2016 - 05:42am PT
Bump for climbing content
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Jun 7, 2016 - 12:01pm PT
A few weeks prior I appreciated the view of Conness from Half Dome and today it was nice to view Half Dome aligned bellow other mountaintops.

Pretty damn cool.
Bruce Morris

Trad climber
Soulsbyville, California
  Jun 7, 2016 - 01:32pm PT
Just one look at your pics convinces me that I don't want to free solo that route like Walt Shipley did. A pretty awesome place to be all alone.
melski

Trad climber
bytheriver
  Jun 10, 2016 - 10:56am PT
great pics and report,,,way to remind me of just another route i,ve backed off from,,,good job gents
chick_on_ice

Trad climber
  Jun 16, 2016 - 08:12pm PT
Good memories V :) I still have those keen sandals around somewhere that survived the ascent. I recall waiting for you two to climb to the summit and being harassed by a persistent marmot. Didn't you also lose a backpack on this trip?
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Jun 27, 2016 - 10:15pm PT
A backpack AND a shirt.* Did you know Mr. Hamik Wankerman has moved to SF? We all should have a little re-union climb or a rad trip to planet granite or get some mexican food or Yogurtland or all of the above. :)
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Jun 28, 2016 - 04:11am PT
How did I not see this b-4 now?
Almost poetry!!
Great stuff
From looking, this is another one -not for the limply- I miss the high country!
long walks at half light, the world just coming alive. Mnt dreams !
As always THNX!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Jun 28, 2016 - 07:23am PT
Great stuff V!!

I love that route. Had to sit on top and watch the sunset once, and descend under a fantastic full moon. Like being on another planet.
Flip Flop

climber
Earth Planet, Universe
  Jun 28, 2016 - 08:44am PT
Vitaliy writes:
I was chimneying up remaining squeeze while adoring the old bolts placed by a FA party. Even thought these bolts are more like a historic artifact rather than a piece designed to keep you from decking, I clipped one anyway. : )

Hey Vitaliy,
Check out the bolt that I brought home from Conness. 1"x1/4" star drive with the sleeves. I tried to pull through the wide by layback and failed. The top 'bolt' came out and is now a prized possession. ( something caught me and I'm a fat flop at about 200lbs)
msiddens

Trad climber
  Jun 28, 2016 - 10:03am PT
Whoa!
Impaler

Social climber
San Francisco
  Jun 28, 2016 - 10:17am PT
Dude, you pulled a bolt by falling on it? AND it was a Harding bolt from a classic route? That relic needs to be put into a frame! Think of all the thousands of people who clipped it and admired it!
Flip Flop

climber
Earth Planet, Universe
  Jun 28, 2016 - 04:09pm PT
Hehe thanks. I love that thing. I wonder how many people clipped it before 2002(?) when I pulled it. I was surprised to hear that nobody replaced it. To finish the pitch, I placed a stupid tipped-out #4 ( maybe #5) and belly smear climbed to the ledge. Not my most glorious moment of climbing but the memory is sweet.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Jun 28, 2016 - 06:04pm PT
Emily Harrington supposedly whipped on it and the bolt held. 200 lbs eh...sureeee... :)
Texplorer

Trad climber
Sacramento
  Jun 29, 2016 - 01:07pm PT
How do sponsored climbers fall on 5.9 pitches. Weak sauce.
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Mt. Conness - Southwest Face 5.10c - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Tuolumne's proudest face.
Photo: Craig Adkins
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