Trip Report
Lover's Leap - various
Wednesday June 9, 2010 4:11pm
My buddy Justin and I were thinking of going up to Castle Crags state park, but I was getting over a cold and didn't feel quite ready for the hearty approach. Scanning the various forecasts it looked like the Leap was going to be nice, so off we went. I hadn't been back to the Leap for three years, and was looking forward to it.

Sunday dawned sunny and warm, and we headed over to the Hogsback. I'd brought my hexes for practice on the easier routes. I was still coughing and my nose was running intermittently .. when is this stupid cold ever going away ?

We started on Harvey's Wallbangers, Center -

Harvey's Wallbangers, Center (5.6)
Harvey's Wallbangers, Center (5.6)
Credit: rhyang

Justin led up & belayed, and we swapped gear. I decided to do the 5.7 mantel, which was stimulating. It was an enjoyable warmup and good practice. Nice views from the top too -

Lover's Leap, East Wall
Lover's Leap, East Wall
Credit: rhyang

Lover's Leap, Main Wall
Lover's Leap, Main Wall
Credit: rhyang

We headed back down and looked around at what to do next .. a queue was forming for both Knapsack Crack and Deception, so we decided to do Harvey's Wallbangers, Right -

Harvey's Wallbangers, Right (5.7)
Harvey's Wallbangers, Right (5.7)
Credit: rhyang

Justin took the first pitch and I took the second. I decided to traverse over to the center route since I didn't have a #5 camalot. Another fun pitch.

Lover's Leap, top of the Hogsback
Lover's Leap, top of the Hogsback
Credit: rhyang

Another party from Santa Cruz came up and we chatted for a while. By now it was afternoon, and we headed down and over to the east wall to do Pop Bottle. I'd led the first pitch several times, but this was Justin's first visit to the Leap, so up he went :)

Justin leading Pop Bottle (5.7)
Justin leading Pop Bottle (5.7)
Credit: rhyang

I took the second pitch -

Pop Bottle (5.7), view of Main Wall from first pitch belay ledge
Pop Bottle (5.7), view of Main Wall from first pitch belay ledge
Credit: rhyang

Fun moves, had never actually led that one before. It was getting pretty windy. I got to the bolts, and then it was Justin's turn again, which went quickly.

Thick clouds moved in, and the wind was steady. We coiled the rope and headed down the descent trail, which was dry and in good shape. No rattlesnakes today. Ran into franky and his partner on the way back to the car -- they'd just gotten done with Scimitar (ah, the memories !) After that we headed back to hang with some friends for the evening.

Monday I was feeling a little better, and I had the wild hair to do the Surrealistic Pillar - Corrugation Corner linkup. But someone was on the pillar and I decided to check out The Groove instead.

I'd followed The Groove about five years ago and remember falling off the starting move a couple of times before realizing I would have to lieback it. This time I reached up and stuck in a yellow (#2) BD C3 to protect that move, and made a couple of false starts .. ah, adrenaline kicking in :) Finally I mustered the courage and did what I had to do. Woohoo !

The Groove (5.8), looking up from the bottom
The Groove (5.8), looking up from the bottom
Credit: rhyang

The first pitch went well, with surprisingly good protection. It was kind of a mantel-fest .. good, always need to practice those. I got to the bolts and brought Justin up -

Justin following The Groove (5.8)
Justin following The Groove (5.8)
Credit: rhyang

The second pitch went uneventfully, and we scrambled up over the ridgelet, and then headed up towards the Main Wall and the base of Corrugation. There were a few patches of lingering snow, but nothing that posed an obstacle.

Lover's Leap, Main Wall - Corrugation Corner (5.7)
Lover's Leap, Main Wall - Corrugation Corner (5.7)
Credit: rhyang

Looked like there was a party on it, but by the time we got there and ready to go they were pretty far up. We were in luck.

I remember the first pitch being rather stimulating as a new trad leader >:) So it was Justin's turn and up he went -

Justin leading first pitch of Corrugation Corner (5.7)
Justin leading first pitch of Corrugation Corner (5.7)
Credit: rhyang

My turn -- the second pitch was everything I'd remembered it to be. Way Fun !! I belly-flopped onto the belay ledge and radioed down to Justin, who made short work of it.

Justin following pitch two of Corrugation Corner (5.7)
Justin following pitch two of Corrugation Corner (5.7)
Credit: rhyang

We decided I would lead the last pitch. The chimney was not that bad and I traversed out, clipped the piton and did the no-hands traverse on the down-sloping dike. That I think was the scariest part of the entire route. Thinking back on it I should have backed up the piton .. have also read that some people step down to the next set of dikes to make the traverse easier .. oh well. Anyway, I breathed a sigh of relief and headed up to the rim.

Corrugation Corner (5.7) -- almost at the top of the last pitch
Corrugation Corner (5.7) -- almost at the top of the last pitch
Credit: rhyang

Maybe next time I should try the 5.8 crack variation for the last pitch instead.

It was mid-afternoon by the time we were both up top, and we gazed out at the scenery -- pretty nice views from up there.

View from the top of Corrugation Corner
View from the top of Corrugation Corner
Credit: rhyang

We could see people climbing on the east wall. After some snackage we headed back down the trail (still no rattlers) and packed up to drive home.

We got a chuckle out of a sign while driving down 50 -

Sign on highway 50 :)
Sign on highway 50 :)
Credit: rhyang

  Trip Report Views: 3,262
rhyang
About the Author

Comments
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TerriB

Trad climber
Sacramento, Ca
  Jun 9, 2010 - 08:50pm PT
Great report! I've done all those climbs, only as a second so far... so it was fun to read your report. Yeah, I stepped down to the lower dike on the traverse on Corrugation Corner. I love that piton.
cowpoke

climber
  Jun 10, 2010 - 08:59am PT
those routes look like great fun...thanks for sharing the report and pics.
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
  Jun 10, 2010 - 07:07pm PT
Nice job. Looks like a great day on great rock.
mtnhank

Trad climber
Pollock Pines, California
  Dec 16, 2010 - 11:36am PT
Thanks for the outstanding photos; they are so helpful for finding and identifying routes. Do you happen to have any pics of the climbs on Hogwild. I tried and failed to find the climbs.

Hank
skywalker

climber
  Dec 16, 2010 - 11:56am PT
Thanks for posting I enjoyed the photos.

Cheers!

S...
rhyang

climber
SJC
Author's Reply  Dec 16, 2010 - 12:14pm PT
Thanks guys. Hank, I've only climbed at Hogwild once, about 4 years ago. Just follow the directions in the supertopo book and you should be fine.
Branscomb

Trad climber
Lander, WY
  Dec 16, 2010 - 12:18pm PT
Thanks for posting that...nice job...brings back some great memories of a great place.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Dec 16, 2010 - 09:19pm PT
Awesome pics,
Thanks for posting!
Stewart Johnson

Mountain climber
lake forest
  Dec 17, 2010 - 12:15am PT
thanks. but radios?
damage

Social climber
olympia, wa
  Dec 17, 2010 - 12:29am PT
Looks like a fun time!
rhyang

climber
SJC
Author's Reply  Dec 17, 2010 - 02:50pm PT
Yep, radios. I have a titanium plate and six bone screws in my neck, right behind my throat, in addition to the six screws + rod in the back. Makes yelling a bit hard sometimes.
Stewart Johnson

Mountain climber
lake forest
  Dec 17, 2010 - 03:21pm PT
sorry aboot that, ever try the silent method?
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Dec 17, 2010 - 03:25pm PT
Very nice man, looks awesome.

I love the ripples in that stone!
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
  Dec 17, 2010 - 03:28pm PT
There are a half dozen ways or more having radios
could be a day saver if not a life saver at the Leap or
in the mountains.

All depends on circumstances.

Big fan of radios. They have their place.
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  Dec 17, 2010 - 03:37pm PT
awesome!

Lover's Leap is on my MUST DO in 2011.

TFPU!
David Knopp

Trad climber
CA
  Dec 17, 2010 - 03:50pm PT
i climbed a ton at the leap this summer/fall, and now just moved to d.c., and am missing California like hell-it's cold flat and expensive here!
rhyang

climber
SJC
Author's Reply  Dec 17, 2010 - 04:09pm PT
Thanks all !

David, I grew up in the DC area, northern VA actually. I have fond memories of the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains. Aren't Seneca and New River Gorge nearby in WV (never been there myself) ? Haven't been back to the area for 16 years now.. I know a lot has probably changed.
Captain...or Skully

climber
Boise, ID
  Dec 18, 2010 - 10:28am PT
Love the Leap. Thanks for the TR, Rhyang.
As always, that's the stuff.
JerryA

Mountain climber
Sacramento,CA
  Dec 18, 2010 - 12:40pm PT
Drove by Lovers Leap Thursday ,Dec. 16th on a ski trip. The entire face was coated with the most ice I've seen there in many years.
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Dec 19, 2010 - 04:33pm PT
Bump!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Jan 26, 2011 - 11:42am PT
Forgot how much I liked this thread!!
Zander

climber
  Jan 26, 2011 - 12:17pm PT
Nice! Thanks for the report.
Z
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