Horse Chute A3 5.7

 
  • Currently 3.0/5
Search
Go

El Capitan


Yosemite Valley, California USA


Trip Report
Interview With First Ascentionist Hugh Burton about first ascent of Horse Chute
Sunday February 13, 2011 4:43pm
January 2011


"The big corner that defines the climb was known as "Heroin Chute" and named by Kim Schmitz. Its really classic and overhanging both directions. From the ground, it was obviously one of the really cool places to climb on el cap."

On the routes quality, "That part of wall is pretty dirty. Lot of sh#t in the cracks. There were sofa-sized hummocks. That said, overall, it was a good route, but they are all good."

On why they chose the line, "me and charlie ran out of other sh#t to do. Had done Magic Mushroom and this seemed like the next one to do."

"We had to make a decision at Truck Stop Ledge. Straight up was a steep beauty for a few pitches but it was disappointing to join Diheddral. Right looked like it was a little blank, low angle and dirty."

Ascent was done before any cams.

"It felt like half a route as it only had 12 new pitches."

The route took 3 bivies.

"Did Excalibur after that."

"Charlie Porter is funnier than hell. One of my best partners."

On why he stopped wall climbing:
"Walls ran their course for me partially because chiseling became popular. We thought that killed the whole spirit when people just carved a placement for a piece of metal. That, and the fact eventually I saw enough piano-sized blocks go by. It was time to pull the plug while I still could."


Why is it called Horse Chute?
"Everyone referred to those pitches as the Heroin Chute. We were not into heroin at all so we shortened the name to Horse Chute which seemed a little less abnoxious."

  Trip Report Views: 1,237
Chris McNamara
About the Author
Climbing Magazine once computed that three percent of Chris McNamara’s life on earth had been spent on the face of El Capitan – an accomplishment that left friends and family pondering Chris’s sanity. He has climbed El Capitan more than 70 times and holds nine big wall speed climbing records. In 1998 Chris did the first Girdle Traverse of El Capitan, an epic 75-pitch route that asks the question, “Why?”

Outside Magazine has called Chris one of “the world’s finest aid climbers.” He is the winner of the 1999 Bates Award from the American Alpine Club and founder of the American Safe Climbing Association, a nonprofit group that has replaced more than 5000 dangerous anchor bolts. He is a graduate of UC Berkeley and serves on the board of the ASCA and the Rowell Legacy Committee. He has a rarely updated adventure journal, maintains BASEjumpingmovies.com, and also runs a Lake Tahoe home rental business.

Comments
Did you like this Trip Report? Got something to say? Don't hold back...
Comment on this Trip Report
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Feb 13, 2011 - 09:21pm PT
Some great history Chris!

Classic route even if it isn't for everyone!
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Author's Reply  Feb 13, 2011 - 09:41pm PT
oops, fixed it
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  Feb 13, 2011 - 10:58pm PT
The interviews help right the ship!
Good stuff.
Did you like this Trip Report? Got something to say? Don't hold back...
Comment on this Trip Report
Go
El Capitan - Horse Chute A3 5.7 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
The route line for Horse Chute, El Capitan, A3 5.7
Photo: Chris McNamara
Other Routes on El Capitan
El Capitan - The Nose 5.14a or 5.9 C2 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
The Nose, 5.14a or 5.9 C2
El Capitan
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

The Nose—the best rock climb in the world!
El Capitan - Zodiac A2 5.7 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
Zodiac, A2 5.7
El Capitan
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

1800' of fantastic climbing.
El Capitan - Salathe Wall 5.13b or 5.9 C2 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
Salathe Wall, 5.13b or 5.9 C2
El Capitan
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

The Salathé Wall ascends the most natural line up El Cap.
El Capitan - Lurking Fear C2F 5.7 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
Lurking Fear, C2F 5.7
El Capitan
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Lurking Fear is route number 1.
El Capitan - East Buttress 5.10b - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
East Buttress, 5.10b
El Capitan
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

East Buttress with top of The Nose on left.
More routes on El Capitan