Goodrich Pinnacle, Right 5.9 R

 
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Glacier Point Apron


Yosemite Valley, California USA


Trip Report
Goodrich to the Oasis Trip Report
Tuesday June 23, 2009 6:56pm
Goodrich to the Oasis Trip Report 6/20/09
A couple of weeks ago we did Goodrich Pinnacle Right and looking up were thinking wouldn’t it be fun to just keep going. So Saturday we did. We used the Galactic Hitchiker topo off of Karl’s site.

The route is more or less the left line on this pic.

Here’s the link to the TR of the lower pitches.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=879438
Here’s a couple of more pics from Goodrich Right.
P3

P5


P6, doesn’t really show the route, I just like this pic.

The two pitches above the Pinnacle are really cool. No harder than what you’ve already done and with a bolt usually not to far below on the cruxes.
Here’s a pic of P10.

The next two pitches run together but I never found the three pins that were supposed to make up the P12 anchor, just one pin and a good crack. I think we went the wrong way on the next pitch. Here’s the way we went up and right across green and scrappy terrain.

I think we should have gone left. Here’s a pic looking around the left side of the overhang.
It’s pretty clean. Try it out if you go.

The next pitch has two ways to go. I went up to look at the 10b/9+ and decided the crux was too far above the pro. The other way is 5.6

We ran together the next two pitches. Kind of green, kind of fun.
We could see the Oasis was in the shade and only a short pitch away so we had lunch and enjoyed the views. It took us about six hours to get this far.



Here’s the anchor where we sat. Sort of typical for the apron I think.

Here’s looking up toward the Oasis.

Here’s another pic of the Oasis once we climbed up there.

There are lots of flowers blooming up there right now.

We wandered around on the ledges for a while looking for the descent route.
We decided we would need to scramble a little higher to keep going, which doesn’t exactly jibe with the descent description, though I think it’s the correct way to go. I was also a little worried about what we’d find when we got over to rock fall area above Curry. We decide to rap the route. This would have gone a little faster if our 7 mil second rope had been 200 feet. We could have linked more pitches. I had forgotten it was only 165. It worked though and it would have been heavier in my pack on the way up if it was longer.

Here is a pic from way up on the descent.
I was definitely feeling a long way from home at the moment I took it.

Another great day! See y’all.
Zander


  Trip Report Views: 1,112
Zander
About the Author
Zander is a trad climber from Berkeley.

Comments
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mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  Jun 23, 2009 - 07:00pm PT
Sweet TR Zander! Looks like a big day on a great stone.

Way to go on keeping up on the classics!

Now go do the Direct route on W Column!
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
  Jun 23, 2009 - 07:04pm PT
Pretty cool. Lot's a green up there.

Looks like a fun climb.

Zander

climber
Author's Reply  Jun 23, 2009 - 07:04pm PT
mucci,
Yes, definitely going to do the the Direct!!
Zander
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
  Jun 23, 2009 - 07:08pm PT
That is a GREAT route and I remember it well! My first forced (read: unplanned) bivi was at the Oasis. Our descent was EPIC as we did about 6-7 raps down a vertical wall with 1,000 year old fixed pins we hammered in with a found rock. I remember hanging off fist jams under a roof rather than weight the anchor. UGLY shite! But a great route up!
altieboo

Social climber
Das Blase
  Jun 23, 2009 - 07:12pm PT
Looks awesome Zander! I'm still to sketched to wander over to the Apron. Maybe its just because I have yet to venture there at all.
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
  Jun 23, 2009 - 07:26pm PT
Nice going, Team.

These reports are really nice.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Jun 23, 2009 - 07:31pm PT
Nice TR! My hats off to slab climbers- the damn things terrify me.
lars johansen

Trad climber
West Marin, CA
  Jun 23, 2009 - 08:51pm PT
Nice TR!! Always wanted to visit the Oasis. The Direct on WC is classic. Did it 25 years ago and it felt "old "then.

Best

lars
dogtown

Trad climber
Cheyenne, Wyoming and Marshall Islands atoll.
  Jun 23, 2009 - 09:07pm PT
Nice, The OS is one of the coolest places in the Valley. Wish I was there now. Thanks for the post.

Bruce.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
  Jun 23, 2009 - 09:21pm PT
Nice - thanks for sharing.

I climbed to near the Oasis in June 2004 with my friend Lin. trip report
We liebacked around the left side of that block in your photo; it was about 5.8.

My friends Sharon and Linda did Goodrich Right Side on Saturday, also. They saw you well up above. 4 parties on Goodrich Right Side on Saturday.

Roger and I were over above the Grack, trying to lead Perhaps. It was pretty tough - Bob Kamps was climbing hard in 1963! (But I knew that...)
goatboy smellz

climber
लघिमा
  Jun 23, 2009 - 09:30pm PT
Way to go Zander!

Jay Wood

Trad climber
Land of God-less fools
  Jun 23, 2009 - 09:37pm PT
Nice.

I like the left/right view of the two falls.

Was this a warm up for the full Galactic Hitchhiker?
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Jun 23, 2009 - 10:56pm PT
Zander, you are getting good mileage this season. I'm jealous!
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
  Jun 23, 2009 - 11:26pm PT


Yup, you should have gone left here. It's a tricky but well protected move if you are wearing any pack and then there is a glassy but sometimes grassy corner (weird that it's both) that's pretty easy after that.

The anchor pins fell out in our hands on the second and third ascents of Galactic Hitchhiker. Somebody should replace them with bolts, not pins if they feel public service oriented since virtually all the fixed angles on Galactic Hitchhiker have fallen out by now. Blame the apron cracks or not enough elbow grease in the iron by the first ascent team? The lost arrows seem to be holding so maybe it's just that ice gets in there and expands on the low angle stuff.

PEace

Karl
Captain...or Skully

climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
  Jun 23, 2009 - 11:57pm PT
The Oasis is a cool, unique kinda spot.......I like it.
Good on ya, boys.
Daphne

Trad climber
Northern California
  Jun 24, 2009 - 12:14am PT
So beautiful! Thanks for posting.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Jun 24, 2009 - 12:27am PT
thanks for the TR Zander... slab is good down time from the OW circuit!
L

climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
  Jun 24, 2009 - 01:08am PT
Dang it, Zander--I can't believe how much I've missed your trip reports!!! Simply incredible photos...from the sweeping vistas to the little bluebells (or whatever the heck they are). Your narrative is always the best info-wise, too. And you guys always look like you're having the best time...makes me wonder why the hecking I'm not there, too.

I'm smiling so big it hurts.

Thanks for the excellent (as usual) TR.
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
  Jun 24, 2009 - 01:22am PT
thanks zander! great report, great route.
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
  Jun 24, 2009 - 01:44am PT
Did the Goodrich to Rim via Oasis in the '70's...Was really cool I remember.
cowpoke

climber
  Jun 24, 2009 - 07:45am PT
looks like great fun and I love the pictures...cool report.
rhyang

climber
SJC
  Jun 24, 2009 - 10:30am PT
Looks like an enjoyable day !
Zander

climber
Author's Reply  Jun 24, 2009 - 10:58am PT
Hey, it's nice that you are back L.
Zander
wayne w

Trad climber
the nw
  Jun 24, 2009 - 11:13am PT
Great TR! The Oasis is a magical place, and a most worthwhile destination. As your wonderful photos show, being up there provides some stunning vistas. Thanks for bringing back some really good memories.
Phil_B

Social climber
CHC, en zed
  Jun 24, 2009 - 12:18pm PT
Thanks Zander.

You always write the TRs I want to do.
spyork

Trad climber
Tunneling out of prison
  Jun 24, 2009 - 12:33pm PT
Nice one Zander and Bob! I'm jealous you guys are getting out there and I'm just slaving away!
couchmaster

climber
  Jun 24, 2009 - 02:05pm PT
I've always wanted to finish Goodrich to the Oasis but every time I get up there, it's spring and there is this ugly and scary wet spot running down up a few pitches that it looks like you have to cross. I don't do wet spots on slabs:-)

I take it you got it dry as you didn't mention the wet spot. Thanks for sharing it Zander, I always wanted to see what it was like up there and your TR shows it quite well.

Now I HAVE to do it, that looks fun. Anyone have the beta for the new rap descent? I've heard there's suppose to be a single rope rap from the Oasis, but last time on Coonyard, we were grateful for having 2 full length ropes to be able to rap that route.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
  Jun 24, 2009 - 02:30pm PT
Bill,

I haven't seen a single rope rappel route from the Oasis. How new is it supposed to be? There is the old Glacier Point Terrace descent, which is supposed to go without rappels (I have never done it). But you would have to cross that rockfall area above the Punch Bowl.

Last summer Roger and I climbed several pitches above Coonyard, to near where it joins Hoser's/Hoosier's Highway. I didn't see a single rope rap route there, either.
Zander

climber
Author's Reply  Jun 24, 2009 - 05:19pm PT
Hey couchmaster,
I don;'t know a thing about a new rappel route. From our lunch spot at P16 we did look over and see a rap station with slings and rings to the west. I'm guessing from the topos it was on the Coonyard to Oasis line but it looked more like a rap station than belay station.

Clint,
Just read your TR of the route. We did the same raps you did until the top of Goodrich when we rapped the Right Side route. Two 60 meter ropes would be better. On pitch 13 you guys went the correct way as shown on the topo. Left side of that roof. The way to the right was 5.7 max., which makes the route 5.8 or less once you are above P10.

Watusi,
I wonder what the difference is between the route you did, Oasis to the Rim, and Galactic Hitchiker?

Zander
cliffhanger

Trad climber
California
  Jun 24, 2009 - 05:25pm PT
Great report. It looks more beautiful than I remember, having done it on a parched fall day. I think the flowers may be Blue Eyed Mary and Crevice Alum Root (Heuchera spp).
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
  Jun 24, 2009 - 06:53pm PT
Ah the Oasis!

Along with Bridalvail and vicinity I always enjoyed hanging out around the Oasis. Spent some quality time there In 1960 after we did Coonyard and several other times coming up the classic Harding route. Your pictures brought back some fond memories and illustrate how lush and colorful it is.

For you historical buffs here is a "Not so Super Topo" of The Hinterland which Kamps and I climbed in Sept of 1962. Wonder what happened to the other section torn out? Perhaps we got hungary and ate it?

Also some articles I wrote for the old Sierra Club Bulletin in 1962. Was a productive summer for me with lot's of climbing in many different areas. Seems like only yesterday.






msiddens

Trad climber
  Jun 24, 2009 - 07:39pm PT
Thats SO dang cool. ALWAYS wanted to get up there and do that to the Oasis. On the list and must repeat.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
  Jun 24, 2009 - 07:53pm PT
Wow, Joe - thanks for the Hinterlands topo and description. I have been wondering for awhile exactly where it goes, since Galactic Hitchhiker crosses it.
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Jun 24, 2009 - 10:48pm PT
Dig! Thanks and well done!
Lynne Leichtfuss

Trad climber
Will know soon
  Jun 24, 2009 - 10:59pm PT
Wonderful Zander !!!!11111 So especially love your picture with the waterfall across the valley in the background picture...the fall's in pretty much full cascade.

For the rest .... I agree with L. So darn sweet to have yo back L. You are a word pilot and I appreciate your flights. We all have missed you much. Peace, lynne
Doug Robinson

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
  Jun 24, 2009 - 11:14pm PT
Very cool, then and now.

Zander, you are clearly a master of more than the wide. I love how the pitches up there alternate from way smooth to grassy diagonal hikes, and back. I enjoyed our talk the other night -- thanks.

Truly such a lush oasis up there. Reminds me of a place off the Palisades trail we call the vertical bog.

Meanwhile Guido rocks at anchor in Fiji, dishing out one long-ago surprise after another. Only time I was there, man, pacing the airport garden while they refueled our transport, the air was practically dripping, thick enough to cut even at eight in the morning.

I'm a bit ashamed to admit how relieved I was to climb back into the air-conditioned fuselage and blast onward to NZ. Makes me wonder: how do you keep from dripping sweat right into that keyboard?
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
  Jun 24, 2009 - 11:56pm PT
Yo Doug

Tis winter in the Southern Hemisphere and the only time to be in the tropics. So dam cool I have even been wearing a tee shirt the past week, as we sit under the South Pacific Convergence Zone and it blows and rains like crazy. So dam green here it hurts the eyes. The whole place is an Oasis.Soon to clear up and back to normal. Hell, even the water temperature dropped down to 79 degrees today. Ouch!

My technique for keeping sweat off the keyboard is I sit under the cockpit dodger out of the wind and rain and keep a cold beer right next to me and whenever I start to sweat I take a sip. Kind of like beer baseball.
Zander

climber
Author's Reply  Jun 25, 2009 - 12:08am PT
Guido,
You are killin' me here! I sailed among the Hawaiian island for a month when I was ten. Later I visited Tahiti for a while. I can just imagine where you are...... maybe
Post on!
Zander
Captain...or Skully

climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
  Jun 25, 2009 - 12:11am PT
You poor Bastard!
Dig it.
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
  Jun 25, 2009 - 12:35am PT
Zander

Super enjoyed your posting and I hate to take up too much with a non climbing topic so if you go to our website you can get an idea of what we have been doing the past years when not in the mountains: www. shanachie.org

cheers

Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
  Jun 25, 2009 - 12:40am PT
Any guess where Galactic Hitchhiker crosses the Hinterland?



From my site

http://www.yosemiteclimber.com

Peace

Karl
couchmaster

climber
  Jun 25, 2009 - 01:01am PT
Thanks Clint and Zander. I'd heard it perhaps like 20 years ago, but never got it confirmed anywhere else. Glad I only headed up with a single rope that one time! Bob and I, upon hearing this new single rope rap had been installed off the Oasis somewhere "theory" had only a single rope and rappelled from somewhere above Lucifers when we got off route and got lost going for the Oasis. We didn't find the single rope rap then, and I always took a second rope and rapped the route we were on afterwords. Coonyard has like 14 full length raps I think, I suppose there is that many on Lucifers give or take. The ...many, many ...single rope raps on that one trip up above Lucifers, on occasion off a single 1/4" er mid-pitch if we couldn't find a crack to leave gear (common), was very very scary and just outright sucked.

Guido, nice to see the Hinterlands topo!
Zander

climber
Author's Reply  Jun 26, 2009 - 05:54pm PT
Hey Guido,
Feel free to hijack any of my threads.
I really enjoyed poking around on your site. Looks like you have been having a great life. I like the google page that shows where you've been sailing lately.

Zander
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
  Jun 27, 2009 - 12:01pm PT
"Coonyard has like 14 full length raps I think, I suppose there is that many on Lucifers give or take. "

You can't rap Lucifer's to the Oasis. At least one anchor is a single fixed angle with no rings or slings. That route is death and I've been stupid enough to go there twice!

Peace

Karl
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
  Jun 29, 2009 - 08:53pm PT
Well it's been a LONG time since I did Goodrich to the Oasis. I'm sure we went up the left side of that big block. I remember that as being pretty sketchy for a bit.
From the top we traversed quite a long way to the west. I believe we stayed high.
There was/is? a Rorher chains rap route which goes/went? down to the East (climber's left) of Coonyard Pinnacle. I'm pretty sure of that for two reasons: I had climbed Coonyard not long before so knew where that route is, and also because the old Meyer's guide (blue) shows the rap route.
Each station was 2 large bolts and chains with rap links

Climber Beware: it doesn't sound as if anyone can vouch for this rap route these days.
It DID require 2 - 50 meter ropes. A couple of the raps took us within 2 or 3 feet of the rope ends. A couple of raps ended on the blank wall, no stance.

I've always wanted to get back up there, either via Goodrich or Coonyard to Oasis.

Slightly OT: I've read some s**t on this site about the condition of the bolts on Coonyard. It wasn't well protected in the first place. Part of the adventure: Leader shan't fall (and neither should the follower) on the traverse.
Anyone been up there lately?
(new thread time)?
Fred
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
  Jun 30, 2009 - 12:25am PT
Zander - Great TR

Thanks for the photos.. inspiring looking route
couchmaster

climber
  Jun 30, 2009 - 12:42am PT
T*R, I think that Karl means that the section above Lucifer's Ledge that goes to the Oasis, even if we had had 2 ropes, it's not equipped or set up for rapping.

Karl said: You can't rap Lucifer's to the Oasis. At least one anchor is a single fixed angle with no rings or slings. That route is death and I've been stupid enough to go there twice!

To Lucifer's Ledge via the Point Beyond use to be my favorite apron route, but we only tried for the Oasis that way once. You might have seen some of our gear we left. Glacier Point, as it turns out, is not totally devoid of cracks which do magically appear here or there in a crisis, and of course, there is always the single 1/4'er you find on the route, just leave a biner and it's a rap point. Voila! LOL!
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
  Jun 30, 2009 - 03:03am PT
Fred,

Roger Brown and I worked on replacing bolts on Coonyard Pinnacle and vicinity in summer 2008. You can read more about it at:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=659883&tn=0

Tom Rohrer's rappel anchors there are still in fine shape - they were built to last:



In summer 2007, we worked on the Angel's Approach / Lucifer's Ledge area and everything below. (When I say "we", this really means I spent one day helping fix ropes for Roger, and then he spent weeks replacing all the original bolts he could reach).
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=441303

In summer 2009 Roger is already at work on the East side of the Apron - as of Friday Bob Steed and I advanced the fixed lines to a high point at the start of the final traverse on Ochre Fields, and Roger is replacing everything within reach below.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
  Jun 30, 2009 - 06:08am PT
hey there, say zander! ... these are wonderful and crisp clean pictures! ... really nice... not sure if i overlooked it somehow, but say, who took the pics?...

great trip report... course i dont understand some of the pitch info, etc... but i sure loved reading it...

really nice... wow, sure looked like a great day!
very blue sky, too... and nice looking rock...

i loved the waterwalls.. and i really liked that rock, where the "vear off the left" was mentioned (did i get that right?)....
i just loved the way the boulder-shape rock looked on the long steep rock.. and the bits of grass...

oh well, i am an artist, not a climber... (though i love to hike, yet its all "art" to me) ... :)
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
  Jun 30, 2009 - 11:47am PT
t*r

Goodrich to the Oasis is the name of the route.
But first, you have to climb the route Goodrich Pinnacle
then climb further, to the Oasis.
On Glacier Point Apron, numerous climbs are sort of built on
one another.
For example, Goodrich, Coonyard Pinnacle, and Lucifer's Ledge
are climbs in their own right, but they have had extensions
added: G to Oasis, C to Oasis, L to Oasis...

"can't rap Lucifer's to Oasis" means that if you want to rappel
from the Oasis, you should aim for something like Goodrich,
instead of Lucifer's.

Goodrich Pinnacle was named in honor of Don Goodrich, who died
at Mt. Conness.
Zander

climber
Author's Reply  Jun 30, 2009 - 03:31pm PT
Hi Neebee,
Glad you liked the pics. I took all of them except when we were sitting on the ledge eating lunch and I could hand the camera to Bob. It sure was a spectacularly beautiful day!
Zander
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Jul 1, 2009 - 04:59pm PT
Way to go, Z-bro!

I really want to do GH, wait, it's a slab climb, did I say that?
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
  Jul 3, 2009 - 05:53pm PT
Did Galactic Hitchiker yesterday. Going pretty quickly with a fit partner (that made one of us) took 9 hours

GH anchor all have tatters for webbing now and the few pin anchors need bolts instead. The first ascent party intended to add more bolts to the Olympic wall on pitches 18, 19, and 20 but never got back there. Somebody who bolts ought to step up cause it would be very easy and bad to fall in several places on pitch 19.

Otherwise, it's all sweet. Getting warm up there so make sure it's not a heat wave day

Peace

Karl
Ken Zemach

Trad climber
Redwood City, CA
  Jul 8, 2009 - 04:45am PT
Cripes Karl, you are a madman. Doesn't that make like #4 for you on Galactic? I mean, it was nice to knock it off and all, but I didn't think it was THAT good. And yes, those pitches definitely need bolts. Definitely. By the way, do you free the whole thing? There's a pitch near the VERY top that we found MF hard. I aided.

For a good workout, I prefer Royal Arches to Crest Jewel Direct...

For the rest of you who are more sane, I would say that up to the Oasis is a fine addition to Goodrich; you can go up as far as you want. Definitely one to put in your tick list. Past the Oasis, it really needs those bolts to be added to feel as safe and fun as the prior numerous pitches.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
  Jul 8, 2009 - 11:00am PT
Dude, it's more like 6-8 times.

But a lot of my climbs are supporting the goals of my partners, and it's great to do a long route with a short approach too.

Done Royal Arches so many times, I don't know if it's 50 or 100+

Peace

Karl
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Oct 13, 2011 - 05:50pm PT
Another wonderful classic with great added commentary and info.

Bump!
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Photo: Chris McNamara
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