Levitation 29 5.11c

 
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Eagle Wall


Red Rocks, Nevada USA


Trip Report
Examining Angelo Angelilli; or The Most Interesting Man in the World
Saturday April 2, 2011 2:20am
In my mind, few men stand as equally interesting, and no man stands as equally charismatic as Angelo Angelelli. An Italian expatriate, a young Angelo immigrated from the small town of Abruzzo to Detroit, then followed a woman to Santa Cruz, CA, where our paths would eventually cross. When Angelo was my age, 20 years old, he was a soldier in the Italian Army. Currently, Angelo owns and operates an organic pasta and ravioli company, Angelilli's Organic Pasta, and makes the best damn ravioli that your ignorant taste buds could ever hope to come into contact with. Angelo is wonderfully complex, and every hard drive on the planet could not adequately store a complete and comprehensive analysis of the man. So take this as a brief and raw illustration of Angelo Angelilli in one of his many elements: Red Rocks.
Credit: Mittens

Our trip began on Saturday, the 19th of March. Early in the drive I turned on some tunes from none other than the Boss himself: Bruce Springsteen. Angelo's face lit up, and he reflectively stated, "Bruce Springsteen sings about the things I love about America." I couldn't agree with him more.

About 4 hours into the 8 hour drive to Vegas, hunger struck us collectively and suddenly. We weighed our options and decided to stop at Taco Bell. Angelo ordered 3 bean burritos and was shocked at the horrible quality and presentation.
"What the f*#k is this bullsh#t?" he disappointingly asked. "They give you half a tea spoon of beans in here- I'm basically eating a tortilla!"
He left the table, and returned with approximately 20 sauce packets. Using one entire sauce packet per bite, he reluctantly finished his meal.
Credit: Mittens
Our dinner later that night more than made up for our lunch of sparcely-beaned tortilla. Angelo brought along 2 pounds of fresh, organic, spinach and ricotta ravioli! It was the most divine taste-sensation that one could ever hope to experience while camping or anywhere else, and I when I slept that night, visions of those vast Abbruzo plains danced through my head.
Credit: Mittens
The weather was spotty for the entire week that we were in Red Rock, raining at least a little nearly every day. The soft sandstone takes a while to dry, so we decided to spend a rest day Vegas Style- poaching the Caesar's Palace pool, prank calling prostitution services, the usual. Angelo was disgusted at the extent to which American enterprises like Caesar's Palace and Starbuck's exploit Italian Culture. Every time we passed a Starbucks, Angelo said something along the lines of, "Oh f*#k that stupid f*#king company... Viente Macchioto... what the F*#K is that??!?"
One day we climbed Levitation 29.
Looking up at the Eagle Wall.
Looking up at the Eagle Wall.
Credit: Mittens
We got a mega alpine start and began hiking at 10:30. On the approach, we passed a lizard free soloing an offwidth! YGD little lizard dude!
Credit: Mittens
We reached the base, and Angelo made a horrible discovery: He had forgotten his rolling papers! I made some joke about snorting the tobacco like snuff to which he replied, "This is not funny dude, If I don't have tobacco it is... bad!" I did not want to find out what this meant, and was quite relieved when he was able to fashion a cigarette out some toilet paper that he was able to bum off a party that was just starting up the route.
Credit: Mittens
Angelo let me lead the odd numbered pitches, because he had climbed the route before. He cruised the roof on pitch 2.
Credit: Mittens
He rehydrated after following the crux pitch.
Credit: Mittens
Angelo was very surprised at the number of bolts that had been added since he first did this climb!
Credit: Mittens
The Eagle Wall is kinda steep!
Credit: Mittens
....and a little exposed!
Credit: Mittens
We made it to the top and got back to the car just as it was getting dark, looking back to see a party epicing on the Solar Slab that would later be rescued by helicopter. (It would start to rain and snow two hours later)
Credit: Mittens
Credit: Mittens
I was really craving cheese, so we went down to Albertson's, I bought a half of a pound of high moisture mozzarella, and scarfed it down in less than 30 seconds.
We awoke to rain soaked rock, and took another rest day at the pool.
The next day (planning to climb another long route), we awoke to more rain.
Angelo came into the car in which I had slept and solemnly muttered, "the rock doesn't want us now."
Credit: Mittens
We packed up and left Nevada feeling the disillusioned melancholy that the leaving of Vegas is known for.
Credit: Mittens
But Alas, Fall will come and with its arrival, we will return to Red Rocks with a vengeance, and an even greater stockpile of fine Italian Cuisine.

  Trip Report Views: 3,462
Mittens
About the Author
Mittens is a climber from Santa Cruz.

Comments
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Captain...or Skully

climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
  Apr 2, 2011 - 02:33am PT
Excellent TR, Mittens!
Bunch of extra gnar points for fashioning a smoke outa TP.
Cheers, man.
sullly

Gym climber
  Apr 2, 2011 - 02:34am PT
Nice to see Jake Gyllenhaal out climbing. Very funny TR Mittens.
Adamame

climber
Santa Cruz
  Apr 2, 2011 - 02:38am PT
Mittens, what a wonderful tribute to an interesting, crazy, but truly touching man. It makes me think of the many nights I have spent with Angelili in that campground we call "Afghanistan". It also reminds me of the time he dropped his belay device and then blamed it on me high on The Black Orpheus.
Mittens

climber
Author's Reply  Apr 2, 2011 - 02:40am PT
Another great Angelo quote: "I love those horny mountain women... I always have."
Captain...or Skully

climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
  Apr 2, 2011 - 02:41am PT
Well, he ain't wrong.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
  Apr 2, 2011 - 03:19am PT
Best trip report that I have read in a while. I love this guy, Angelo. Tell him to look up Wayno if he comes to Seattle. I work in Restaurant called Angelo's. I'll bet we have something he would like. We have the wines he would like, and we could make something that might not be on the menu that would make him happy.
wildone

climber
EP
  Apr 2, 2011 - 05:58am PT
He's a great dude for sure. Many insights into the opposite sex...We hit it off famously at a shindig in Capitola that my hog-raisin' farmer friend and his bbq ing friend were putting on. I was amazed that I hadn't met him before.
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Apr 2, 2011 - 07:45am PT
Nice all-around wrap up. Good stuff!
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
  Apr 2, 2011 - 11:14am PT
Great fun report: climbing, eatting, and cruizin Vegas: like in the "good old days."
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
  Apr 2, 2011 - 11:26am PT
Nice save with the mountain money.
I liked this tr.
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
  Apr 2, 2011 - 11:34am PT
Excellent report mittens - thanks!

I'm nervous about the use of "cigarette", "toilet paper" and "bum" all in the same sentence.

fashion a cigarette out some toilet paper that he was able to bum off a party
Credit: Mike Bolte
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Apr 2, 2011 - 12:57pm PT
Nice TR!
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
  Apr 2, 2011 - 01:02pm PT
Fun TR - thanks!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Apr 2, 2011 - 02:34pm PT
loved the part 'bout taco Hell.
That place gives me some serious belly ache!

Great TR!
Tami

Social climber
Canada
  Apr 2, 2011 - 11:00pm PT
a half of a pound of high moisture mozzarella, and scarfed it down in less than 30 seconds.


Gnarrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrly. Your poor colon.
hoipolloi

climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
  Apr 5, 2011 - 01:21am PT
He is the most interesting man in the universe.




Does he drink Dos X's?
MisterE

climber
  Apr 5, 2011 - 01:35am PT
About 4 hours into the 8 hour drive to Vegas, hunger struck us collectively and suddenly. We weighed our options and decided to stop at Taco Bell

That should keep those Italians away! Good job.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
  Apr 5, 2011 - 01:42am PT
A very Fine TR! Thanks!
climber bob

Social climber
maine
  Apr 5, 2011 - 11:25am PT
i heard lepton man is the most interesting man in the world..
Adamame

climber
Santa Cruz
  Apr 5, 2011 - 11:37am PT
I showed this to Angelo yesterday, as he isn't a taco yet, and he laughed his head off.

Bump for Angelili's Organic Pastas; OR the best pasta in the universe or maybe just California.

If you live in Santa Cruz and you haven't picked any up yet then you need to soon. Its at many of the local markets, except Whole Foods.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Apr 5, 2011 - 04:03pm PT
"I don't always smoke tobacco in the mountains, but when I do, I smoke it with quilted two-ply premium."
jahil

Social climber
London, Paris, WV & CA
  Apr 5, 2011 - 07:08pm PT
Angelo is the greatest Italian I know, he makes the best pasta I've ever tasted.
Mittens you are fine fellow for doing this.
billygoat

climber
Pees on beard to seek mates.
  Apr 6, 2011 - 12:27am PT
Here's some shots from a whole series of Angelo portraits I took on a Red Rocks trip a few years back:

Credit: billygoat

Credit: billygoat

Credit: billygoat

Credit: billygoat

Credit: billygoat
Muddud

Social climber
the Cruz of Santa, CA
  Apr 6, 2011 - 04:33pm PT
i just nearly guffawed my tea onto the computer screen.

way to go, M - always love your TRs.
my favorite quotes of his are still how caroline's routes make him feel, and what american woman don't give you.
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