Levitation 29, Eagle Wall 5.11c

 
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Red Rocks, Nevada USA

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Shelly Presson Dunbar, pitch 5, Levitation 29
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I think I'm at Red Rock! Looking up at Eagle Wall.
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The crux pitch on the climb. The bolt below my foot (right above the roof) can be taken out by hand completely, but don't worry, we inserted it back.
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I asked my partner not to put me on belay until I made my first clip because the moves looked thin and I didn't want to drag him down with me if I fell.
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I could still be happy if I had gotten lost on this approach up this beautiful canyon.
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Why is it called IBM Boulder, not Intel, or Microsoft?
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There are many ways to get to the climb.
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I could end up in Arizona if Route 159 had not dead ended here.
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Track Overlay for Eagle Wall (Levitation 29)
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A GPS track of our descent. N.B. the GPS has done a few odd things so shouldn't be solely trusted!
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At the top of the gully turn climber's right, and head towards a small roof with a large boulder just beneath it, go to the LHS of this boulder and then descend the gully towards the Eagle Wall and your chosen route (you can just make out the Eagle in thi
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At these rocks, head up the gully on the LHS turning right at the top.
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Follow weaknesses across the slab and then back towards climber's left (near a pile of three larger rocks).
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...this way.
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At the IBM boulder turn climber's left and aim for the RHS of the small arch feature shown.
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Continue across this way (over the overlap) aiming for the IBM boulder which will soon come into view.
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Head this way across the weather slabs aiming for a break in the small overlap.
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Up here and then turn right at the top.
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Probably the steepest section of the approach/descent. Head this way until you get to an obvious junction where you need to turn climber's left.
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Carry on this way...
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The 4th class starts here, where a slippery slab meets the wash. Traverse the thin ledge which unhelpfully ends just before you can gain the rocky shelf pictured.
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This roof is visible on the left (looking up-creak in Oak Creek Canyon) where the middle approach (as shown in the Handren guide) starts.
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Eagle Wall - Levitation 29 goes up the middle of this beast
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