Trip Report
Eeyonkee and Lucille, a wild Weekend
Thursday August 11, 2011 9:20am


So, Eeyonkee, aka Grug, otherwise known in some circles, as Greg Cameron, Wyde climber Extraordinaire, set his sights on The Vedawuoo Squeeze Chimney Roof known as Lucille .13a, and along the way showed us a lot.

As a fun and motivational project he started a thread, "The Road to Lucille" here on the Taco to elicit route and training Beta, and track his own progress toward this. Another thread even started to wager on his success. Alas, surely by now we all know it's the journey, not the destination....

Here is what went down that weekend.
Credit: Jaybro


Grug and I both arrived in Vedauwoo Friday afternoon. We shot the sh#t and discussed plans as we awaited the arrival of Em of Wyde, Goatboy and Elizabeth, aka Grug's better half. Mike Friedrichs, my partner on the first ascent was scheduled in on Saturday morning.
After discussion and unwinding, Greg decided he wanted to do some warm up climbs on Saturday to slide into the Vibe of Lucille.

It has been said that slab climbing is the closest hing to offwidth, so our first objective Saturday morning was the Hull boulder. An odd slab that seems too low angled to even be a climb, that none the less kicks ass. It was first done in 1965 in Mtn boots. A historic Theme started to take place for the weekend.
First up was Em, who two years ago had failed to summit, claiming "I am not a boulderer" -Ed Hartouni, has Video!

Credit: Jaybro
I guess two years in Paradise with it's adjacent Happy Boulders and Buttermilks had honed her confidence.
Credit: Jaybro
as, this time she just walked up it.
Credit: Jaybro
and topped out
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Grug and I went next, Grug actually finding multiple paths up. Then Goatboy upped the ante with a different method;
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currently,
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a work,
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in Progress,
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So after these shenanigans, we found ourselves here,
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Grug, Lucille, Elizabeth, Em, butterflys and Jerry Mathers as the Goat...
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to warm up on Best of the Blues (.10d fa Bill roberts, me, bob Scarpelli, Frank,(the colonel) Sanders, 1979 ) and get a closer look
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what were you thinking, here Grug?
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Next up was agony of Da Feet .10b OW. An alternate approach pitch to Lucille put up by the late Bill Roberts and myself in 1979
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Later that day we were joined by Gal, Mike F and Shiho and decided to cool down
with The Classic, Cupcake Boulder. Grug decided to put up a Toprope, in style,Gal Belaying
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And that was Saturday, Sunday found us getting up to Hassler's Hatbox via varying trails; Goatboy,
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and Gal's, "Rocketdog", Asia,
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were the advanced scouts.
I scooted up Walt's Wall to take some Shots of Em and Gal climbing the classic Edward's crack.
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The team assembled, we staged below Hassler's Hatbox
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Grug made quick work of Best 'o the Blues, and belayed Mike up,
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The time then, was now, so off and up, went the Eeyonkee.
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Credit: Jaybro
Somewhere iamidst the drama, we in the peanut gallery were joined by The One and only Bill Kuestner, aka Captain America, Goofy Bill,etc, Slabmaster, kayaker, flyfisherman, weather plane regroover,landlord, Laramie resident, college roommate of Mike F and sporadic climbing partner for over 30 years!
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'
Grug reminding us that it's about being there now! Victory in 'defeat'.
Elizabeth, Grug, Em


AND A LOT MORE....




Bear with me as I flesh out the above.


Anyone with thoughts and or photos from that weekend feel free to add them and chime in.

Some references;
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1412648/Road-to-Lucille
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1560804/Odds-on-Eeyonkee-doing-Lucille
and a Hartouni thread with a link to a reprint of my original article, Lucille, for R&I 1990
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/111369/Lucille



Jaybro, 8/12/2011, Coal Creek Coffe Uptown, Laramie Wyo

  Trip Report Views: 5,036
Jaybro
About the Author
Jaybro is a social climber from Wolf City, Wyoming

Comments
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Comment on this Trip Report
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
  Aug 11, 2011 - 09:23am PT
Digging it already. You old guys are an inspiration.
neversummer

climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
  Aug 11, 2011 - 09:31am PT
cool as hell...
Daphne

Trad climber
Northern California
  Aug 11, 2011 - 09:39am PT
Right on!
fattrad

Mountain climber
GOP Convention
  Aug 11, 2011 - 09:44am PT
Sweet



The evil one
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
  Aug 11, 2011 - 09:48am PT

Awesome, Jaybro. The crowd ROARED "MORE, MORE, MORE!!!!!!"
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
  Aug 11, 2011 - 09:51am PT
NICE!
looking forward to moar.

Cheers!
cowpoke

climber
  Aug 11, 2011 - 09:53am PT
so cool. love all the photos -- those last two are just amazing.
O.D.

Trad climber
LA LA Land
  Aug 11, 2011 - 10:04am PT
Anxiously waiting for more...all sweaty-palmed...
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
  Aug 11, 2011 - 10:38am PT
The mind boggles. Menonite little girls with crashpads, bird's eye perspective of horizontal chickenwinging action, I feel like the mescaline is kicking in.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Aug 11, 2011 - 10:55am PT
Excellent! More, please!

John
klk

Trad climber
cali
  Aug 11, 2011 - 10:58am PT
at least the slab looks fun.

heh
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
Maestro, Ecosystem Ministry, Fatcrackistan
  Aug 11, 2011 - 11:08am PT
Eyonkee!!!! JAYBRO!!!!!!! EM!!!!1111111111

EVERYONE ELSE!!!!!!!!!!!!111111111111111111111111

DMT
Hankster

Social climber
Golden, CO
  Aug 11, 2011 - 11:13am PT
more pics of the initial overhanging into vertical section of Lucille please. very excellent so far Jaybro, and eeyonkee is my hero. like Russ said, you old bastards are an inspiration!!!;-)
jahil

Social climber
London, Paris, WV & CA
  Aug 11, 2011 - 11:24am PT
Great stuff, Jaybro. Can't wait to see more. Definitely worth the wait !

steve
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
  Aug 11, 2011 - 11:33am PT
Looking great so far
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Aug 11, 2011 - 12:43pm PT
I've been waiting for this!!!!! Thanks. And, yes, more please. I can't wait until Sunday is covered.

I sure would have liked to have seen Haan try this back in the day. Subtle flares and patience were his strong suits, although I was really struck by your(jaybro's) comment that when you finally sent it, you attributed your success as much to great aerobic capacity gained at high elevation as much as anything else. (do I have that correct?).

Anyway Grug, you're a role model!

PS added in edit: I got so excited about the first pictures to come out in this subject that I went and did all the buildering squeeze and OW that I could do without getting arrested on U. Washington's campus. There is one short polished concrete squeeze on Ben Hall (new building) where I have to foot stack. When I get the technique right, it's not too bad, but other days I can't make a move on it. And it's only vertical.
MH2

climber
  Aug 11, 2011 - 01:27pm PT
"other days I can't make a move on it"


Offwidth is engimatic. It takes conditioning, technique, expert clothing management, and a whole lot more that only the finest minds can discern. And the coup de grace is that ultimately the crack itself seems to decide whether it wants you or not.


This was an outstanding instance of the climbing cycle, from inception to post-game, and a great crew. Great photos. Thanks.


Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Aug 11, 2011 - 07:21pm PT
thanks for the post Jay!
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
  Aug 11, 2011 - 07:24pm PT
TFPU! This is a most enjoyable ride.
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
  Aug 11, 2011 - 07:27pm PT
Yes, terrific stuff. Thanks for putting it up. Can't wait for more!
Gary Carpenter

climber
SF Bay Area
  Aug 11, 2011 - 07:44pm PT
Keep postn' up Jay!!!
blackbird

Trad climber
the flat water trails...
  Aug 11, 2011 - 07:56pm PT
Missed you folks by just barely!

Glad you had fun, and while I thoroughly enjoyed ALL the pics, I must say that the second to last one intrigues me the most...

BB
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Aug 11, 2011 - 08:20pm PT
Bigity bumP!
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
  Aug 11, 2011 - 08:21pm PT
That chest hair carpet adds friction. Try not wearing a shirt. That should take a letter or two off the grade.


Seriously though, it looks a lot bigger and meaner in those shots of Grug sitting on the ledge.
Mike Friedrichs

Sport climber
City of Salt
  Aug 11, 2011 - 08:22pm PT
It was such an awesome weekend it almost makes me want to become a trad again! Thanks Shiho, Jay, GAL, Grug, and everyone else.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
  Aug 11, 2011 - 08:24pm PT
Great stuff. If we can have a few photos from the FA, and maybe the one of Pam hanging upside down being cute, that would add some nice perspective.
piquaclimber

Trad climber
SEKI
  Aug 11, 2011 - 08:48pm PT
Wow.

That's a fun TR. I especially like the shot of Grug sitting below the roof. I don't think I understood how imposing that thing is from other photos I've seen.

Brad
Mimi

climber
  Aug 11, 2011 - 08:52pm PT
Thanks for posting. Way to go you gals and guys!
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
  Aug 11, 2011 - 09:06pm PT
Is it too early to beg for more?
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
  Aug 11, 2011 - 09:18pm PT
Fntastic photo essay of Grug's great adventure!! More!!!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Author's Reply  Aug 11, 2011 - 10:33pm PT
More tomorrow, though my keyboard seems to have a bug, may have to repair to the mothership in Gillette.

You make it home, Gary?

Thanks all! Grug, get back up there!
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  Aug 11, 2011 - 10:27pm PT
what great energy!!!!
Gal

Trad climber
going big air to fakie
  Aug 11, 2011 - 10:33pm PT
I just wanted to add a couple of thoughts. It's an interesting thing to go out for the weekend knowing you will be meeting all new people. I had read Jaybro's Lucille account a while back here on Supertopo, and it was one of my favorite write-ups. When I saw Eeyonkee's (Greg's) "Road to Lucille", I was definitely rooting him on during the following months, always reading up on the thread.

Luckily, timing worked out for me to make it out to Vedauwoo. As I walked up to campsite 12, I was wondering in my mind how this would all go, what with not knowing anyone and all. And I have to say, the moment I sat down, I felt comfortable. Everybody was very friendly and welcoming as soon as I walked up. Goatboy, Jaybro, the Divine Ms. Em, lovely Elizabeth, and of course Greg. Later meeting Mike, who was a part of the original FA of Lucille, cheering and belaying the new suitor Greg ;-). Jaybro was very encouraging the whole time, he also was pointing out a lot of classic climbs, boulder problems, etc. And Shiho was there, very sweet & who was climbing strong. Em and I swapped leads on Edwards crack, an adorable classic, which brought us to the location of the main event, Lucille-fest. And Bill caught up with us all in the gallery, he was cracking us up.

I was impressed by the whole weekend, and was thrilled to see Greg up there courting Lucille! He almost charmed his way to her heart, but at the last moment, Lucille's heart went cold. I feel certain though, the next time, she will allow passage-she just needed to get to know him a little better ;-) While this time around was Lucille-Fest, I believe Lucille Quest (a saying from Em) shall continue with triumph next go-around! And Greg, I am sorry to hear about your shoulder... I hope you heal quickly and give her another go. I believe that success will be yours.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Aug 11, 2011 - 11:17pm PT
well Gal, if you like wide, you're obviously bonkers, and since your nuts, you fit right in with a mixed bowl with the cashews, almonds and wallnuts.

koalaTee TR Jay! look to more
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Aug 11, 2011 - 11:24pm PT
That's a fun TR. I especially like the shot of Grug sitting below the roof. I don't think I understood how imposing that thing is from other photos I've seen.

Ditto!
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
  Aug 12, 2011 - 09:44am PT
Thanks for the TR, Jaybro. I must admit, before driving out on Friday I was thinking to myself, "what have I got myself into?" I mean, I don't really even like people watching me climb at the gym. And there was a reasonable chance that I would barely be able to start the thing. But the vibes were so good. I've never prepared for a climb before like I did Lucille.

On Sunday morning, Elizabeth, Gal, Goatboy and I (who were camped near Partyland) got to Jay's campsite at around 9:00. I actually went off by myself and did quite a few calisthenics to get warmed up. Mike and Shiho had gotten up early to do Spectreman. Since Mike was going to be my belayer, we knew that the main event wouldn't start until 11 or 12. Elizabeth and I ended up hiking up by ourselves while others were doing routes to get to the Hatbox.

The Hatbox area is surreal. It's like an elevated rock desert plain with cool boulders that form tunnels and lots of horizontal huecos partially filled with water. I couldn't keep still and just kept walking around, exploring my surroundings for an hour and a half, at least. I had made a swami belt with leg loops, because I did not want any extra volume around the hips. I spent a lot of time fidgeting with the swami belt to get it to fit just right.

Finally, when everybody arrived and it was time to get down to business, I actually felt pretty calm. Of all of the points I made in the opening post to the Road to Lucille thread, the visualization one is probably the one that helped me out the most. I pretty much hit the mark in visualizing what to do. I also knew that I could not get bogged down with placing gear in the middle of the cruxes, so I my decision to go for it after placing with my feet on the rail was a good one. I just brought two pieces with me above the rail, a number 6 and number 5 Camalot. The number 6 I placed near my eventual high spot. At that point I was actually in really good shape, although breathing hard. The number 5 I figure I'd place after it got easier. It's amazing how quickly it went downhill from the semi-comfortable spot where I had placed the number 6. Although what I said about losing my heel-toe is true, it's also true that I was so gassed that I could not recover from a mistake that could have been overcome if I was in better cardio shape.

I tried two more times, but they were half-hearted and I did not get near my high point. Cleaning the thing on retreat was even harder than the lead attempt. Thanks for hanging in there with me, Mike.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Aug 12, 2011 - 07:42am PT
TFPU, love the voo!
pc

climber
  Aug 12, 2011 - 07:55am PT
Great! This is better than coffee.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
  Aug 12, 2011 - 07:55am PT
WOW, I totally missed that in the pic with Goat? rubbing his nipples in the wind, Greg is back there in the maw of the beast, feet on the rail before going horizontal.
Shiho

Trad climber
Salt Lake City
  Aug 12, 2011 - 11:17am PT
I believe that it's Bill in the photo, playing with his nips.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
  Aug 12, 2011 - 11:50am PT
I thought Bill (who I'd never met before) was funnier than sh#t. In the middle of my attempt, I would suddenly become aware of roars of laughter from the peanut gallery - I think it was actually continuous except that the wind would drown it out more often that not. Somehow this made me feel more comfortable.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
  Aug 12, 2011 - 11:53am PT
"in the midnight hour,,,,SHE cried more , more , mo-o-ore!
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
  Aug 12, 2011 - 12:00pm PT
I just realized in that great picture of Bill, way in the back in the dark of Lucille, there is struggle going on.
goatboy smellz

climber
लघिमा
  Aug 12, 2011 - 01:17pm PT





































jahil

Social climber
London, Paris, WV & CA
  Aug 12, 2011 - 01:21pm PT
Woah!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
  Aug 12, 2011 - 01:27pm PT

Lucille's the Gal, and a mean one at that

she will spit you out and youll go splat

Many have tried but most will fail

to tame Lucille you must lift her veil

Its the WYDE daunting crack of her wicked smile

the flesh from climbers sets in a pile

Youll skitter and scrape for an inch or two

but its up to Lucille for you to get through

Shes a fickle wench this much we've known

Many a climber of which shes thrown

So here's to Lucille, long may she last

To be such a crack is what makes her the blast...



appropriate re post ,,timing wise....;-D
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
  Aug 12, 2011 - 01:28pm PT

SOOOOO CLOSE, and yet so far. . .


WHAT AN EFFORT, GREG, WOW!!!!
Doug Robinson

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
  Aug 12, 2011 - 06:46pm PT
I'm a thousand miles away, Lucille,
yet I know you better than ever.
MH2

climber
  Aug 12, 2011 - 07:26pm PT
Psychedelic pictures
Gal

Trad climber
going big air to fakie
  Aug 12, 2011 - 08:15pm PT
well Gal, if you like wide, you're obviously bonkers, and since your nuts, you fit right in with a mixed bowl with the cashews, almonds and wallnuts.

Absolutely, Mungeclimber, you are correct! ;-)

I fit in well!!!

Goatboy-you got AWESOME pics too!
...and Jaybro, your pics are SO wonderful (thank you for this TR)!!!

Em-did you get back safely? How was Tuesday's climbing with Jaybro? Plumb line?
Hankster

Social climber
Golden, CO
  Aug 12, 2011 - 08:19pm PT
i blew out my O-ring just looking at those pics!!!

caylor
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Author's Reply  Aug 12, 2011 - 08:24pm PT
Lucille in the sky with diamonds(in the rough; Grug & Freddie)?...
westhegimp

Social climber
granada hills
  Aug 12, 2011 - 08:22pm PT
SICK! Love it.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
  Aug 12, 2011 - 08:53pm PT
FABULOUS ON ALL ACCOUNTS!!!!!! YEAHHHH!!!!!!!


Grug you gotta regroup, up the cardio, and get back onner.


Hankster TMI with yer "O" wring :-D hahahahhahaa.


Yey fer gnarly, uppity, ruthless and unrelentin' wyde.

Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
  Aug 12, 2011 - 09:37pm PT
A great story and a great effort. Thank you for sharing it with us.

Goatboy! Those photos are "da bomb!!"

They are so------ great!

From the photos it does look like Greg had all but done the route.

However, I hit "VO2-Max" on a much easier chimney this summer.

As I understand it: When your heart rate maxes out (VO2-Max), suddenly you hit a wall (you just don't have any energy to continue), and only resting and dropping your heart rate will restore your energy. http://sportsmedicine.about.com/od/anatomyandphysiology/a/VO2_max.htm

Unfortunatly, the older you get: the lower your VO2-Max level is.
em kn0t

Trad climber
isle of wyde
  Aug 12, 2011 - 11:11pm PT
Gal wrote:
Em-did you get back safely? How was Tuesday's climbing with Jaybro? Plumb line?

Tuesday was a semi-rest day -- climbed Hide-Away Chimney and the Flake at Holy Saturday. Home safe, thankful for a great trip.

delicate balance
delicate balance
Credit: em kn0t





murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
  Aug 12, 2011 - 11:19pm PT
Gorgeous shot, Em. Great pix, words, and efforts to all, particularly Greg!
em kn0t

Trad climber
isle of wyde
  Aug 12, 2011 - 11:55pm PT
Back at the old climbers home, reminiscing on the good times and great folks met along the way...

The Mighty Eeyonkee
The Mighty Eeyonkee
Credit: em kn0t

most of all Grug...blown away by his awesome strength, poise and determination

Central Area from campground (Lucille is hiding on upper left edge...
Central Area from campground (Lucille is hiding on upper left edge of the formation); sadly many trees have been cut down due to beetle damage but wildflowers are abundant
Credit: em kn0t

Lucille Day: Jaybro demos crux move for Elizabeth while Grug tapes up
Lucille Day: Jaybro demos crux move for Elizabeth while Grug tapes up
Credit: em kn0t

Shiho dancing up Currey's Diagonal. The little tree looks pretty sad b...
Shiho dancing up Currey's Diagonal. The little tree looks pretty sad but still offers a welcome rest.
Credit: em kn0t

the road goes ever ever on...
the road goes ever ever on...
Credit: em kn0t

Eyes that fire and sword have seen <br/>
And horror in the halls of stone ...
Eyes that fire and sword have seen
And horror in the halls of stone
Look at last on meadows green
And trees and hills they long have known
Credit: em kn0t

philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
  Aug 12, 2011 - 11:35pm PT
Rippin' good pics Goatboy.
Prod

Trad climber
  Aug 13, 2011 - 07:01am PT
Nice stuff all around.

Cleaning the thing on retreat was even harder than the lead attempt.

Tell that story.

Prod.
J. Werlin

Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
  Aug 13, 2011 - 11:49am PT
awesome, thanks so much for posting. Good go Grug!
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Aug 13, 2011 - 12:29pm PT
I love that you all took photos with such different feelings.

Grug so looks like he has it in the bag in goatboy's second to last picture, like what's the problem ;-). Hey I like being an arm chair OW climber even more than a real one, lucky considering my last OW lead was a two years ago.

Once again, I'm so appreciative to Jabro for the climb and starting the thread.

Em's photos are beautiful and invoking "The Road Goes Ever On" takes unfair advantage of us sentimental sots, as I wipe a tear from my eye (no shit).
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Aug 13, 2011 - 11:58am PT
Great great great!!

Sooooooo glad to see pix of someone in that thing.

So I will never be tempted......................................
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
  Aug 13, 2011 - 12:00pm PT
How hard is that thing? It looks pretty nasty.
em kn0t

Trad climber
isle of wyde
  Aug 13, 2011 - 01:58pm PT
invoking "The Road Goes Ever On"

Credit goes to Ed Hartouni who invoked that first, on the Road to Lucille thread. It seemed so appropriate (with apologies if too sentimental).

Cleaning the thing on retreat was even harder than the lead attempt.

Yes, Greg please tell us more about that.

I was amazed at the time that Greg chose to downclimb and clean. Any of us "lookieloos" could've easily climbed another route to access the top of the formation, and lowered a rope to Greg (yes, we offered) but he quietly did the proud trad retreat.

The rack Greg took seemed super-lean; a few big Camalots, BigBro, no Valley Giants. Goatboy's fifth photo looking up from below shows the mind-numbing exposure of the upper section after traversing out the roof, as well as the angle at which Greg was climbing; the straight-on photos can't really show what you see from the belay cave at top of Best of the Blues. Incredible geometry...how could Jaybro and Mike ever imagine climbing that, BITD? The timid mouse mind boggles.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Aug 13, 2011 - 02:01pm PT
Nice report Jay and great pictures. I would love to hook up with you guys next year in Ved. I bet I could get the whole family to come down to that one.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
  Aug 14, 2011 - 07:37am PT
Hey, thanks you all. Nice pictures Goatboy and Em. I miss hanging out with you all already.

As far as the retreat goes, I guess I would have never dreamed of doing it other than the way I did. I felt bad enough employing a fellow (and super-good) climber as a dedicated belayer. The retreat was a struggle, involving down-aiding with big gear. I don't know how else to describe it. I felt it was important to clean up my own mess.

Still haven't decided on whether or when there might be another go. This is the first weekend that I haven't been to Vedauwoo in 5 weeks. Turning 55 this week. I don't have unlimited time.

Edit: Those pictures are amazing. You need to look at the way the gear is hanging off my hardware sling to get perspective on which way is down relative to my body position. By the end of the sequence, you can see that I'm near vertical.
Zander

climber
  Aug 13, 2011 - 04:31pm PT
Great thread all, Thanks for sharing your adventure!
Zander
perswig

climber
  Aug 13, 2011 - 04:48pm PT
This and its sister threads may be THE best thing on ST these days.

Thanks to all who have contributed, for taking us on this ride, esp with the pics - had no idea of the scale of this thing 'til the long shot of Eeyonkee seated mid-way up.

Dale
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
  Aug 13, 2011 - 05:21pm PT
This is the good stuff. Real climbers do offwidth.


pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
  Aug 16, 2011 - 12:11pm PT
Write Jay Write...
Nicely done, making my shoulders ache.
Somehow, 13 OW seems to be some sort of event horizon.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Aug 16, 2011 - 12:38pm PT
This TR firmly reminds me that I never want to climb anything wider than my fist. Well done everybody.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
  Aug 24, 2011 - 04:14am PT
So Phantom X reminded me that this was a Quinn Martin production and therefore needed an epilogue. Turns out he was lying (second time I fell for that this month). But I figured, an epilogue was indeed, appropriate, and frankly, I've never had an epilogue before.

First of all, I just wanted to point out that Jaybro finally posted all of his pictures in the opening sequence. That is really a spectacular sequence of photos. I find myself analyzing the climbing photos (both his and Goatboy's) with respect to absolute location, body position, and direction of down as determined by the direction the Camalots are hanging. I've come to the conclusion that, while very close, I was definitely in a key inflection point in the climb, that was almost certainly the crux for me. The crux was probably a little farther up climb than for Jaybro and Mike, who are a fair bit thinner than me. Both Jay and Mike thought I had it.

Climbed one day since the Lucille attempt - on the following Wednesday, with George Lowe in Eldorado. I ended up struggling on a climb I'd done probably 20 times before - the first pitch of Genesis. Just before taking a fall, I pulled a muscle in my rib area and have been in pain ever since. Just went to the doc yesterday. Nothing much I can do about the rib muscle tear, but I'm having an MRI procedure on the left shoulder in a couple of weeks. The shoulder definitely got messed up during the Lucille attempt, although I'm pretty sure I had already had a tear.

This was the most hooplah before a climb, that I'd ever been associated with. Though embarrassed at times, it was not an unpleasant experience. Like Jaybro said at the start, it's all about the journey. The wife thinks I'm too skinny now.


donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Aug 23, 2011 - 06:21pm PT
Very, very nice- I was road tripping and missed this. Wish I could have been there to cheerlead...er, I mean, heckle.
Phantom X

Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
  Aug 23, 2011 - 10:38pm PT
You call that an epilogue? No wonder there is a rumor out that your being tossed off of ST. I have not an epilogue but something even better. Comments from non climbers that I thought interesting for some reason! Everyone I showed pictures to asked the same question and that is this, "Is Mr. smellz of the Hampton smellz or of the Kansas City Smellz?" The afore mentioned snooty lady (thread #1)exclaimed "Oh for Heavens sake" and "Insanity has it's charms". She won't let go of the I word and left quite happy. The UPS guy liked them and said that I'm always making him late which is funny because he's a master screw-off who is always holding up the whole town. My neighbor the retired railroader and a biker tells me this is cool stuff and that he has skydived and skuba-dived and went on to enlist me in moving a three ton boulder a hundred yards. I thought the sequence pics were edge of the seat exciting, everyone does! I'm also wondering if this is a ST tri-fecta (I use latin frequently) first as their are now three threads involved and this set's a new standard for pertinent journalism. I'll bring this up with Chris (CMac to you). Good luck with your shoulder and ribs, you deserve a rest!
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
  Aug 24, 2011 - 07:18pm PT
Marky likey! Great photos and nice write up! That is one intimidating looking OW!
Double D

climber
  Aug 24, 2011 - 08:47pm PT
Gotta say some of those photos really show the enormity of that beast. Who, in their right mind would ever call this recreation???

Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
  Nov 22, 2013 - 02:44pm PT
amazing story
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Nov 22, 2013 - 02:54pm PT
No. Fecking. Way.

Not. Ever.


WOOO HOOO!!!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Nov 22, 2013 - 02:58pm PT
Your friend Grug is from Colorado? I think I met him and his partner at the Needles...nice guys! And a good report as well.
dirt claud

Social climber
san diego,ca
  Nov 22, 2013 - 03:01pm PT
Great pics. Thanks for the TR. Looks like a whole lot of fun.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Author's Reply  Nov 23, 2013 - 08:23am PT
Probably the same guy vitally! pretty sure he told me went to the Needles when he got shut out of the valley....
Blakey

Trad climber
Sierra Vista
  Nov 26, 2013 - 05:24am PT
EEoow!

That looks truely mental!

Man, he got soooo close. And then reversed it to clean.......

Must be 'strong like Bull!' It makes me feel like a woose.

Great TR TFPU.

Steve
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
  Nov 26, 2013 - 06:04am PT
Truly balls to the walls inspirational!! A TR +++ Makes me want to go into the vault and look at Mother Superior again; just look mind you. And then the back cleans that thing after the effort... Is it just me? Or is it that the wide people on this site are have a ton of fun; smiles all around and everything.

L

climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
  Nov 27, 2013 - 06:19am PT
What a fab TR, Jaybro and all!

Those incredible photos of Grug should line the BD hall of fame walls.
spectreman

Trad climber
  Nov 27, 2013 - 07:07am PT
Credit: spectreman
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
  Nov 27, 2013 - 07:09am PT
^^^Nice!
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  Nov 27, 2013 - 01:21pm PT


BadA$$!!!

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